nope, those bozos don't. In the stickies is the instructions on how to pull codes from our computers. HOWEVER since you have a VE you can buy a Consult cord thing on Egay and pull codes and data with that. any cable that can read a 90 or newer 300Z can read a VE computer.

 

appreciate it, thanks

 

I'm pretty sure it's the somewhat large connector with a frilly clear rubber skirt around it, that isn't hooked to anything. It is behind the hood release or tucked up behind the fusebox.

 

Is there, then, some way to look at certain electrical signals to see if something is being weird? Like, hooking a multimeter to the fuel pump relay and having someone else ride in the car with you and watch the voltage, and hope the car hesistates right then so you can collect some data..? If you can find a discrepant electrical signal that only occurs during the hesitation, you'd save a lot of hit-and-miss repairs.

 

you can try that, but a scope would probably work better.

 

a scope being... a scanner thing? otherwise i'm ashamed to say I don't know what you're talking about. (it happens to everyone, right?)

 

http://www.answers.com/main/ntquery?...loscope&gwp=13

 

you know Brian, you could've just saved time by calling it by its proper name instead of callin it by its short form and then having to look up what it was

 

I'm having the same problem. I think it was low fuel pressure. So I changed my fuel filter as a starter. I haven't changed it in about 50,000 miles....i know, i know. But I have to start somewhere. If its not that then I think it may be the fuel pump or injectors.

 

What exactly are the symptoms?

~Alex

 

I am having an intermittent hesitation issue with my 1994 Maxima SOHC GXE.

Normally, I get hesitation when starting off and accelerating - and when the engine has not fully reached normal operating temperature. I don't normally see this problem for 90-% of the time. My check engine light is on, but I'm not getting an error code.

When it hesitates, I have to floor it to get power and then I experience a huge surge up to 3000-4000 RPM then it drops back down. As I stated, the hesitation problem is intermittent and normally happens when the car is cold - rarely when it is hot. The car drives perfectly 90% of the time except for this hesistaion issue. Its always easy to crank and accelerates fine, and runs smoothly - except when it hesitates. When it does hesitate, the idle becomes erratic as well.

Things changed:

2 fuel injectors - was riding rough all the time till I replaced these.
Fuel Filter
Air Filter
Spark Plug Wires
Spark Plugs
MAF sensor
Ignition Coil

Please help.

 

I start with the coolant temp sensor.

 

I'm no expert but the temp guage itself seems to be working properly. Might the coolant sensor still be bad even though the temp guage works properly? School me.

 

Theres 2 sensors. One is a single wire for the gauge and a 2 wire for the computer. The 2 wire one is bad, or the connector needs cleaned.

~Alex

 

Thanks Alex, I didn't know that. I know where the single wire sensor is located, but in what vicinty is the 2 wire sensor located?

 

opposite side of coolant pipe as the single wire sensor.

~Alex

 

Great, I'll check it and see if that helps. I hope so. This is driving me crazy. I'll let you guys know.

 

Ha dayton! I got my black 90 SE from down there 2 years ago or so! It was in great shape just had a blown auto. Its a 5 speed now.

LMK if you need anything else. AIM or w/e

~Alex

 

this happend to me a few months back. turned out to be MAF sensor and o2 sensor.

 

Thanks Alex

 

i have the very same issues as far as idle fluxuation its a vacuum leak and i found it to be true i checked all sensors and pulled all codes from PCM and fixed what codes where shown all from faulty connections and found two leaks in the air system one being right beneath the throttle body/ intake plenum and only way you can positively find if it is due to vacuum leak is to apply a smoke leak tester which i did in my college and found two leaks one from what the previous owner had tryed capping off the resonator on the factory intake tubing and didnt cap it off and seal it properly. fixed that and still have another leak under the intake/intake plenum. luckly i can remove the IAA/FICD valve system and replace the gaskets on to leaking part and also the IAA system. And hopefully repair will fix that and then from there i plan to replace all other vacuum hoses and anything that looks like it needs replacing juz to update all the old hoses they have in there.

As for the O2 sensor you should see it bounce from the range of .300 mv to .600mv which is proper working range of the O2 sensor. mine having the two vacuum leaks found my O2 sensor to be running very lean at the value of .117 mv and once i fix that leak under the intake plenum/throttle body should fix it and get the air/fuel mixture corrected.

 

I changed the coolant temp sensor, yet the problem remains. I'll check the O2 sensor.

 

For idling problems, you might want to check your O2 sensor, its usually a small box, ranging from a match-box size, to a cigarette pack size near the air filter intake. For idlings that jump up and down, the main cause is probably the TPS, the 2 philip-head screws just might be a little loose from all those years of running, or it might be broken. if it isn't the problem, then its probably inside the intake manifold somewhere such as the servo or dirty air passage lines and you're in big trouble. (costly to take down) Just fixed my idling problems today same as you guys, it was the TPS after all, i should have known. :-| Also, some advice, if you have the time, check all the the small-medium vaccum hoses and specially the ends of the hose where the clamp is placed, there might be a hose split in half (due to wear and tear) or might have a small hole that could barely be seen by the naked eye.

 

So the TPS would cause the car to be just taking off from, say, a parking spot after startup, backup fine, put it in Drive or 1st gear, and then you give it gas to go (or engage clutch) and then it starts to act up... until you wait a few seconds then it's normal again? Seems weird to me but anything's possible.

(also did anyone notice the spelling of "problem" in the title. I usually catch stuff like that way sooner. Whatever. Gives it character.)

 

You're a little late on catching that porblem cuz I caught it the day the thread was made I just didnt wanna embarrass anyone

 

I broke up your post to make it easier to respond.

1-The square thing by your filter is the MAF not an 02. Cleaning it can help, parts stores carry a MAF spicific cleaner made by CRC, don't use any thing else.

2-Maybe, usually a bad coolant sensor or connector causes this, a TPS usually causes strange driveability AFAIK.

3-Yes the IACV gets dirty and no its cheap to clean change and is easy/fast to do. Just get some carb cleaner take off the hose and IACV (4 small bolts, a few hoses, and some rtv or a new gasket)

4-yes, checking and replacing any and every vac line is very helpful

I just fixed my car. For a while its been "idling" at 1200-1500rpm and bouncing up and down. The other day I replaced the coolant sensor and connector, adjusted the stop on the TB and adjusted the tps since I changed the TB position.

The coolant sensor was easy. I did solder a new connector in though. Took care of the bouncing idle. Then it still idled at least 1200rpm. No good. So I looked at it and the TB was being held open too much. So I took it off and turned the screw all the way down and put it back on. That helped, I adjusted the IACV and now it sits at 700-800 when warm.

It still bounced around but I jacked the front end up and bled the cooling system alot better and now it idles PERFECT!

GL thats just what Ive done in the past few days...

~Alex

 

http://btp.mine.nu/Jared/max.org_stuff/MVI_2073.avi it's 5.4MB, ~30sec long

Started hesitating at the 10 second mark. I held steady gas pedal pressure until the 15 second mark when I pushed a little harder. I held just like that until it finally came alive, surged, and reached 2500rpm, at which time quickly lifted and braked (ran out of road...). If you look closely you can see the tach needle bouncing and fluctuating. I've had worse, but that was when I was driving through my grandpa's yard, not just out in the circle as i was for this video. Then it was violent (fluctuations were as much as 500+rpm at a rate of ~2Hz. Sorry I had the stupid radio on. I don't even like that song...

And yes i have multicolored cluster illumination. green->bluegreen->blue(but you can't tell)->white. I'm waiting for my SE gauges to see which one I like the best but I went ahead and setup the lights that way.