bvtran

iTrader: (3)

I have already bled all 4 wheels last month but during the first 5 mins of driving the car, it felt very spongy/jerky. The ABS light goes on. Everything went fine thereafter. If I warmed up the car for 5 mins then drive, it doesn't felt spongy nor does the ABS light goes on. However, when I'm coming down a hill while driving for a while, it does felt spongy again. Strange, I used a mighty vac hand pump to do it and used a 1.25 Quart of brake fluid, starting on RL, FR, FL, RR direction going twice, i.e. 2 loops. I've done this on another car too and I didn't have any problems but why what sup with this Max? While I was bleeding the brake I notice, no matter how much fluid came out...there were always consistent number of tiny bubbles. The mighty vac manual said it was alright, probably system bubbles. Any suggestion to my spongy problem?

When the ABS warning light goes on, I got 8 LED flashes. It told me my rear left (driver side) wheel sensor is having problem. That's cool. I could always clean it up or get another one from the junkyard. Now the question is when that yellow ABS warning light goes on, is it locking and dragging my 4 wheels?

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

The ABS light being on means that the ABS system has been disabled. the brakes still function normally.

92 Max

You're sure that you kept fluid in the master reservoir while bleeding? This was my problem. It only seems to take 2-3 pumps to drain it, then you get more air in the system that takes forever to get out. Or you may have a leak in the ABS system, that allows air past some seal with the vacuum. Do you get premature activation of the ABS system, thumping for no reason? I had this on the front and what it was was the wire from the sensor had a break in it. Go to the rear axle, and unplug the sensor's plug there. These connectors are on the axle, closer to the center. Check the resistance (0.8 - 1.2 kOhms) while wiggling the wire to the sensor. If you have high resistance or radical changes in it while you wiggle the wire it's broken inside. But try cleaning the sensor with Brake cleaner first.

bvtran

iTrader: (3)

Yes, as I was bleeding I did left the cap opened and had fluid in there at all time. It was never ran dry.

The thing is if there was a leak, my master cylinder would've lost fluid while driving but it never did. The fluid level looks fine.

Where are the two joints on that sensor should I check for resistance you referred to?

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Using the vacuum method, did you remove the bleeder and put some plumber's tape on it?

bvtran

iTrader: (3)

you mean Teflon? no, why? it wasn't leaking. I just greased the thread to prevent it from seizing up in the future.

92 Max

The ABS wheel sensors on the rear wheels have cables that come from them about 12-18" and end in a connector plug. These wires come pretty much straight out the inside of the wheels and end in grey plugs. These plugs are on either side of the rear jacking pad, towards the rear and slightly above it. Here's a link with good pictures.http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d801f5a8d.jsp
You need to press in the plug latch on the side, then wiggle it apart. Put your ohm meter leads on the wires going to the sensors and test it as I mentioned before.

bvtran

iTrader: (3)

Thanks. I'll try to that next time I jack it up. Now back to the "trumping" problem, I only get it during start up. Why does it go away after 5 mins? Is it because the master cylinder and clutch at where the reservoir located went bad? I've never mess with it so I don't know. I just replaced the brake lines, calipers, pads, and bled it.

92 Max

Are you sure it's not just the ABS activating on the driver's rear? The pedal pulsates when this happens and it takes longer to stop. I had this on the front sensor when mine went bad. I'd be turning into a parking space and the sensor wire would twist and the ABS would activate. I almost ran into a car parking because it didn't stop when I thought it would due to the ABS activating.

bvtran

iTrader: (3)

ok, I'll try to fix that abs thing then see what will happen next. thanks so when the abs is activating, it's normal for the pedal to pulsate?

92 Max

Absolutely. That's what ABS does is it pumps the pedal (very quickly) automatically so you don't have to.

bvtran

iTrader: (3)

Thanks. You're right! I just unplugged the 3 abs wires under the hood and the pulsation went away. Nice nice... too bad the ugly abs warning light always stay on but screw it. I got a blinking air bag light on too so it wouldn't make any differences if it's on or not. I have no idea why that stupid thing stays on. I unplugged the air bag wires from its hub, plugged it back and it's gone... damn it!