4togrfr

I was keeping my '91 SE around for my daughter who is now driving. But, I recently got a great deal on a low mile Sentra for her instead. I don't need a 5th car in the drive/garage, so the Maxima's gotta go. The question is in whole or parts? The max was bought new by my mom who sold it to me. It has a good service history and no significant accidents. It has 300K+ miles on it. But the ODO stopped years ago and shows something around 160K.

The good:
Body is in great shape, though paint is a bit faded.
Interior is OK, leather seats in back are OK. I replaced the front leather (cracked) with the original (NOS) cloth upholstery about 1.5 years ago. I also have the (new) cloth for the rear seats.
Auto trans in great condition.
Newish tires (less than 5K on them)
2 yr old Warpspeed Y pipe and cat back exhaust
Just did timing belt, major tune up incl O2 sensor and engine temp sensor.
Emissions and VA Safety Inspected

The bad:
Engine. It leaks oil. I'm prettry sure it leaks at the rear main seal. More recently it's also leaking near the front, likely the pan needs reset. needs 1, maybe 2 injectors. On the good side it does not burn oil.

If I kept the car, I'd planned to swap the engine (JDM) due to oil leak and injectors.

I'd like to sell it whole if there is interest, but I don't want to give it away! I'd like to at least recoup the cost of the upgraded parts from the last year, including the tires. I also suspect the new upholstery is worth a couple hundred alone if parted. I've see similar Maximas go recently from $500-1800. Ideally I'd be happy getting $1200, but maybe this is unrealistic.

The other option is to part it, which mechanically I can do and have garage space to do, but my time isn't exactly free either.

Any suggestions or offers? I can provide pictures if anyone is interested.

Mike

Alex_V

Pull the engine, replace all the external seals. Find some low mileage injectors and put it all back together. I may even have your injectors. Get a gauge cluster that works, set it to 300K and sell it.

Also sell me the warpseed Y. Ill send you my stock one. And if you really want the cat back.... Again Ill send my stocker.

Id just keep it together. Sounds like a nice maintained max and it could make some one a great car.

~Alex

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

and while you're at it, take off the spoiler and fill in the holes for a cleaner look... and once you do that, put it in a box and send it do meeeee.

well i'm just saying that b/c i need a light-colored spoiler.

seriously it's a tough call as to whether or not you can get that much more for fixing your car than you can get for parting it. If you fixed it, think of its value, then think of the money you could get for parts. Heck you already just got 2 offers: spoiler and ypipe.

4togrfr

Thanks for the input. I guess you guys have dibs on the afore mentioned parts if I end up parting it.

I'll look into the cost of replacing the engine seals (I don't own an engine lift and never pulled an engine, but am pretty confident I could).

After I thought about it, I doubt anyone looking at it for a daily driver would want the current muffler on it (part of the Warpspeed cat back swap). It is a Magnaflow, with a nice low tone, but definately a little loud!

Alex_V

Engine lift's are about $150 or so. And a load leveler would help when you go to put it back in, they are about $40. You also might be able to rent them depending on whats in your area. I rented one from nations rent for like $40 or something for a day or two.

For seals go to the dealer. OEM >all and it isn't that much more expensive.

Other then that you don't need many big tools. And it wouldn't really be that hard. The maxima has lots of space to work on it. I just worked on a probe with the mazda 2.5L and man its a PITA.

Loud exhausts don't bother me, so if you want a stock setup I'll trade plus some cash.

~Alex

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

you're one of a few I'm looking to buy a spoiler from, but I guess it depends on price, availability, and condition of the part, as to which I get.

Jon94SE

Depending on the situation there's usually more money to be made from parting out. But... I would never encourage the death of another 3rd gen. I'm a wierdo like that. I was lucky enough to save mine from certain doom.

plaman88

Definetly get the cluster fixed, I wouldn't buy a car with a broken one unless it was dirt cheap. If your more or less original owner with records to prove it I don't see why you couldn't get 500-1000 for it.

Prophecy99

iTrader: (1)

hehe

gad1116

I will buy the turn signal stalk from you. anyone selling a turn signal stalk please email me asap ok thanks.

4togrfr

The cluster works fine, it's just the odometer. Sometimes it works, usually it doesn't. I belive there is a gear sticking in the odometer mechanisim. If this is a big deal, I'll pull it apart sometime this week and clean and lube the moving parts to get it working again before I drop another $100 into the car.

I've decided to sell the car whole. It's just too much time right now to part it out. Per my original post, I have the original factory, unused rear seat (grey) uphlostery. I don't think this will add much value to the car, I'll offer it here for best reasonable offer. If I should move this to the classifieds, let me know.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

i had this problem, i fixed it too. take out the odometer assembly (unhook the wire out of the speedo, and then it's like 3 screws) and then you have to unscrew the motor out of it. I HAVE PIX i'll post for you. anyhow you have to take the motor out and spin the shaft with your finger. if there's any sticking or grinding feeling, that's why. also check for all the gears, make sure that they are all in good condition and not cracked (they won't grip the shafts if they're cracked)

pics in a sec. i'll edit

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

that double-circled screw.. put it back into the metal once you pull the whole thing out. that way your odometer won't compltely come apart when you pull the motor, because that half of it has 3 screws in the back. otherwise you'll have to put it back together after it comes apart.

if you need to adjust mileage, start with the largest number you need to change and gently force it. it's going to sound horrible but chances are if you're careful but forceful, you can move the numbers without messing anything up.it takes 2 clicks per digit to move a number. if it's a ballpark guess just adjust the first 2 digits the rest won't matter. that thing sitting on the stack of papers is part of the cluster. don't take it off and you won't have to put it back on. it's the clank-ching thing for when you open the door or whatever. the CHIME that's its name.

4togrfr

Thanks for the info.

Mike