Buying a low mileage engine from Japan
04-04-2007, 05:11 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 77
Buying a low mileage engine from Japan
Hi all, I've known for awhile that my engine was on it's last legs. I have a 1993 Max Se with 144,000 miles.
The rest of the car is in great shape.
It's consuming alot of oil between oil changes and smokes abit after idling afew minutes. My mechanic said it needs a new engine/rebuilt. I ran across afew companys that directly imports low mileage engines from Japan. Between 30-60 thousand miles tops!
Has anybody taken that route before? Or did you buy a rebuilt/ or overhaul it yourself. I like the price, no core exchange and shipping is decent as well.
So bring on the comments.
The rest of the car is in great shape.
It's consuming alot of oil between oil changes and smokes abit after idling afew minutes. My mechanic said it needs a new engine/rebuilt. I ran across afew companys that directly imports low mileage engines from Japan. Between 30-60 thousand miles tops!
Has anybody taken that route before? Or did you buy a rebuilt/ or overhaul it yourself. I like the price, no core exchange and shipping is decent as well.
So bring on the comments.
04-04-2007, 05:14 PM
#2
Look in the stickies -- there is a large thread on this subject.
**edit -- here:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....85#post3124785
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=332356
There are some things that should be swapped over. There is also no guarantee the miles are actually that low. I got a JDM engine in 2004 and it looked clean as a whistle. The VTCs are clacking on it now. It is very strong, though. Maybe the springs got "tired" from the engine sitting a long time, who knows.
I paid less than $1k for the engine. I paid Jeff92SE to install it, since my car was in Seattle at the time. To do the install correctly and replace things that are easy to do while the engine is out will cost you quite a bit more.
**edit -- here:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....85#post3124785
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=332356
There are some things that should be swapped over. There is also no guarantee the miles are actually that low. I got a JDM engine in 2004 and it looked clean as a whistle. The VTCs are clacking on it now. It is very strong, though. Maybe the springs got "tired" from the engine sitting a long time, who knows.
I paid less than $1k for the engine. I paid Jeff92SE to install it, since my car was in Seattle at the time. To do the install correctly and replace things that are easy to do while the engine is out will cost you quite a bit more.
04-04-2007, 06:55 PM
#4
Buyer Beware!!!! I recieved a JDM from Midwest Engines and it was trashed. Rust poured from coolant system, pressure test showed 5 of 6 cylinders bad, and they refused to exchange/give me another engine. They sent me a water pump but it was the wrong one. When I rebuilt the engine, they had to bore it becuase the cylinders were out of round and heads slightly warped. This was on an engine supposedly guarenteed to have less than 30k miles. Save your money, get US engine. What about rebuilding yours by replacing rings and front/rear seal?
04-04-2007, 06:55 PM
#5
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 77
Thanks Cliff, I couldn't find the stickys earlier!
Not sure which way I'm going to go yet. Might just sell it as, but theres that little voice saying, fix me, fix me. I've owned a 3rd generation the last 13 years.
Alex I'm the 2nd owner, not sure about the PO, but it was in decent shape when I bought it back in 1996. Plus I've kept up maintenence.
Not sure which way I'm going to go yet. Might just sell it as, but theres that little voice saying, fix me, fix me. I've owned a 3rd generation the last 13 years.
Alex I'm the 2nd owner, not sure about the PO, but it was in decent shape when I bought it back in 1996. Plus I've kept up maintenence.
04-04-2007, 08:04 PM
#6
Originally Posted by Chris Gregg
Buyer Beware!!!! I recieved a JDM from Midwest Engines and it was trashed. Rust poured from coolant system, pressure test showed 5 of 6 cylinders bad, and they refused to exchange/give me another engine. They sent me a water pump but it was the wrong one. When I rebuilt the engine, they had to bore it becuase the cylinders were out of round and heads slightly warped. This was on an engine supposedly guarenteed to have less than 30k miles. Save your money, get US engine. What about rebuilding yours by replacing rings and front/rear seal?
I would have sued a place before I would have spent all the money 1) for the engine and 2) to have that engine rebuilt.
The place I bought from had compression tests and a 1 year unlimited mile warranty.
04-04-2007, 11:53 PM
#8
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 52
if ur afraid of taking ur own engine apart, you can search for a junkyard engine and try to rebuild that one. this way you can take ur dear time with it. but then if it doesnt work, you gotta take out the engine again. i've seen a few 4th gen maxs in good shape, just that it got into an accident (engine was intact) and prob just declared a total loss since of its value. you might be able to pick up one in pretty good shape if you know what to look for.
about consuming oil; how much is it consuming? i heard it was very common for even brand new engines to consume some of the oil. i have a 94 gxe with 198k miles on it (currently stalls on idle, another thread, so not sure if it'll make 200k) and it consumes a qt of oil per oil change. i change it every 3k miles and never gotten an engine oil warning light. its been like that for quite some time, but i have to admit that its been burning a tad more now than two years ago when i first got the car from my bro.
about consuming oil; how much is it consuming? i heard it was very common for even brand new engines to consume some of the oil. i have a 94 gxe with 198k miles on it (currently stalls on idle, another thread, so not sure if it'll make 200k) and it consumes a qt of oil per oil change. i change it every 3k miles and never gotten an engine oil warning light. its been like that for quite some time, but i have to admit that its been burning a tad more now than two years ago when i first got the car from my bro.
04-05-2007, 01:57 PM
#10
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 120
Originally Posted by Aussie
Not sure why it's burning so much oil, maybe the wifes driving
it's taking about a quart every 3 thousand miles.
No I'm thinking about an overhaul!!
it's taking about a quart every 3 thousand miles.No I'm thinking about an overhaul!!
04-05-2007, 03:16 PM
#11
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Posts: n/a
Its bad when my VG doesn't burn any, and most VE's don't as well. If it was a VQ35, that wouldn't be bad lol.
Id say re ring it, new valve stem seals, check the bearings and toss it back together with all new OEM gaskets. Not to expensive (except labor wise) and it'll get your engine running very well again.
~Alex
Id say re ring it, new valve stem seals, check the bearings and toss it back together with all new OEM gaskets. Not to expensive (except labor wise) and it'll get your engine running very well again.
~Alex
04-06-2007, 06:37 PM
#15
They sell a complete engine rebuild kit for about $6-700. Comes with all new gaskets, rings, timing belt, timing belt tensioner, freeze plugs, rubber rings, and oil seals. It does not include a new water pump though.
You do not necesarrily need all these parts. As mentioned before, get the ring set, valve stem seals, I'd also replace F/R oil seals. Just go to www.courtesynissan.com and go to their parts section to get a price on an overhaul kit and see what is listed. Having the heads rebuilt should only cost you about $200 labor for someone to do it, tops. If replacing rings, you'll need to get the cylinders honed...not very expensive. In the end, you'll have a much better engine, and one you are definately more familiar with.
You do not necesarrily need all these parts. As mentioned before, get the ring set, valve stem seals, I'd also replace F/R oil seals. Just go to www.courtesynissan.com and go to their parts section to get a price on an overhaul kit and see what is listed. Having the heads rebuilt should only cost you about $200 labor for someone to do it, tops. If replacing rings, you'll need to get the cylinders honed...not very expensive. In the end, you'll have a much better engine, and one you are definately more familiar with.
04-06-2007, 08:47 PM
#18
Originally Posted by Chris Gregg
They sell a complete engine rebuild kit for about $6-700. Comes with all new gaskets, rings, timing belt, timing belt tensioner, freeze plugs, rubber rings, and oil seals. It does not include a new water pump though.
You do not necesarrily need all these parts. As mentioned before, get the ring set, valve stem seals, I'd also replace F/R oil seals. Just go to www.courtesynissan.com and go to their parts section to get a price on an overhaul kit and see what is listed. Having the heads rebuilt should only cost you about $200 labor for someone to do it, tops. If replacing rings, you'll need to get the cylinders honed...not very expensive. In the end, you'll have a much better engine, and one you are definately more familiar with.
You do not necesarrily need all these parts. As mentioned before, get the ring set, valve stem seals, I'd also replace F/R oil seals. Just go to www.courtesynissan.com and go to their parts section to get a price on an overhaul kit and see what is listed. Having the heads rebuilt should only cost you about $200 labor for someone to do it, tops. If replacing rings, you'll need to get the cylinders honed...not very expensive. In the end, you'll have a much better engine, and one you are definately more familiar with.
I knew he had a VE, just pulling from memory what mine came with...VG. Thanks Chris for clarifying that. I'm such a 
!!
04-11-2007, 04:31 PM
#21
I got a JDM VE from CNS motors about a year ago for $650. Looks clean as heck. They smashed up the EGR system in transit though (do JDM VE's have EGR systems...?), and I've since noticed that there's alot of RTV sealant around the timing chain sides of the heads. Nevertheless, it's been sitting in my garage for like a year
Because of the above I'm pretty convinced it's not a JDM VE (how can I tell exactly?), but the price aint bad, and it does look to be in good shape
Because of the above I'm pretty convinced it's not a JDM VE (how can I tell exactly?), but the price aint bad, and it does look to be in good shape
04-11-2007, 04:45 PM
#22
Originally Posted by James92SE
I got a JDM VE from CNS motors about a year ago for $650. Looks clean as heck. They smashed up the EGR system in transit though (do JDM VE's have EGR systems...?), and I've since noticed that there's alot of RTV sealant around the timing chain sides of the heads. Nevertheless, it's been sitting in my garage for like a year
Because of the above I'm pretty convinced it's not a JDM VE (how can I tell exactly?), but the price aint bad, and it does look to be in good shape
Because of the above I'm pretty convinced it's not a JDM VE (how can I tell exactly?), but the price aint bad, and it does look to be in good shape
04-11-2007, 04:53 PM
#23
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 22
Again, I would def research the place you're buying it from and see what their return policy is. Imagine the dissapointment of a shot motor.. and then the hassle.. but I hope it works out.. def like to see/hear the results of the transaction...
04-12-2007, 07:12 AM
#24
Originally Posted by James92SE
I got a JDM VE from CNS motors about a year ago for $650. Looks clean as heck. They smashed up the EGR system in transit though (do JDM VE's have EGR systems...?), and I've since noticed that there's alot of RTV sealant around the timing chain sides of the heads. Nevertheless, it's been sitting in my garage for like a year
Because of the above I'm pretty convinced it's not a JDM VE (how can I tell exactly?), but the price aint bad, and it does look to be in good shape
Because of the above I'm pretty convinced it's not a JDM VE (how can I tell exactly?), but the price aint bad, and it does look to be in good shape
also, my coil packs look different, although that could be something available in the US.
The entire IACV is different inside, along with the screw that was mentioned.
This might be a case-by-case thing, but mine also had a layer of varnish on the entire engine (even all of the cut wires and stuff), I am assuming it is to cut down on corrosion of exposed metal parts. My IM and valve cover have been swapped over, so the only place really visible now is on the front manifold.
04-14-2007, 01:50 PM
#25
Excellent, thanks!
Guess mine is a JDM then based on the Cam Sensor. I also noticed mine had a full layer of varnish type stuff on it, even all the rubber hoses and everything. Kind of weird. I figured that was something from the supplier to make it all shiny and clean though
Guess mine is a JDM then based on the Cam Sensor. I also noticed mine had a full layer of varnish type stuff on it, even all the rubber hoses and everything. Kind of weird. I figured that was something from the supplier to make it all shiny and clean though
04-14-2007, 04:19 PM
#26
I had the same deal with the varnish. Hoses, wires, etc. It was even "pooled" a little on my front valve cover, so it looked like oil. I can't tell you how many people looked at my engine bay and said "you have oil leaking all over," and I had to tell them to actually touch it. I have since swapped in a different valve cover.
Also, if you install it, look through the stickies really good. I believe Jeff mentioned that the coolant temp sensor needs to be swapped out, too. That lazy bastard
just swapped my old one, but they are about $20 and 5 minutes to replace. Mine went bad a short time after the swap.
Also, if you install it, look through the stickies really good. I believe Jeff mentioned that the coolant temp sensor needs to be swapped out, too. That lazy bastard
just swapped my old one, but they are about $20 and 5 minutes to replace. Mine went bad a short time after the swap.
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