Fuel injectors
04-09-2007, 02:01 PM
#1
Fuel injectors
would you suggest buying injectors from a Salvage yard? I found out that I have atleast 2 bad injectors last night.....no rpm drop at all when disco'd from the plug.....or has someone cleaned out injectors before..i.e. removed them and cleaned them with carb cleaner and a meter (seen it online this morning). They still click when the engine runs just not getting any fuel through.
getting pissed at this car.
getting pissed at this car.
04-09-2007, 02:30 PM
#2
If you do end up getting them from a j-yard,make sure you get the whole rail so you can just swap it out without having to remove the injectors..It makes the job much easier...
But if your j-yards are anything like my area yards,they will not part the engine out if the engine is good...
But if your j-yards are anything like my area yards,they will not part the engine out if the engine is good...
04-09-2007, 02:36 PM
#4
Originally Posted by usaf_hydro
I believe I saw one car with the injectors with rails sitting in the back seat of the vehicle......all the SEs already have the motors yanked
Wear baggy pants the next time you go...
04-09-2007, 03:11 PM
#5
Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 52
if ur hunting down 3rd gen fuel rails (suggested by someone else), its a PITA to get that out if the engines intact, esp at a junk yard. i doubt they would go thru the trouble themselves to get it out and might not even sell it since they can sell the engine whole (good or bad) for much more cash. if u see one, just grab it and see how far it takes you.
in respect to repairing injectors, it is messy. You have to take it all apart, find the exact coil wire and replace it and put it back together. its not a walk and even my dad was hesitant to do it, even though hes very handy w/ fixing random stuff.
i also read up on cleaning injectors; its not the way to go. if so, do it with nissan cleaner; thats what they recommend. if ur getting a bad resistance reading, no cleaning would help.
its either junkyard or OEM. if u get junkyard, get that fuel rail asap since its a PITA to get that out if the engines intact, esp at a junk yard. i doubt they would go thru the trouble themselves to get it out and might not even sell it since they can sell the engine whole (good or bad) for much more cash.
dont go w/ refurbs since heard mixed reviews of them. also for a 3rd gen, a real PITA to swap them out every now and then, even if it costs much less. I bought one recently (from dealer) at about 140 for one. if ur buying two, maybe speak to the manager at the dealer to see if you could get a slight discount (remember those o-rings and various new gaskets - upper, lower manifold, throttle body gasket, iac/aac gasket). these things should last for along time so dont cheap out on them. my new ones works great.
there are some sites that sell it for cheaper and they might be more willing to give a discount (http://www.foreigncarpartsonline.com/, 130 not sure about shipping. can call them and see what they can offer.). if you posted it earlier, we prob cud've teamed up to buy 3. partsamerica also got one, but its from gp sorenson. its the same color and looks like the one i have, but its only 98 dollars.
if they were easier to replace i would suggest just getting refurbs and seeing how long it'll take you. i think for refurbs they mostly sell sets of 6 online.
in respect to repairing injectors, it is messy. You have to take it all apart, find the exact coil wire and replace it and put it back together. its not a walk and even my dad was hesitant to do it, even though hes very handy w/ fixing random stuff.
i also read up on cleaning injectors; its not the way to go. if so, do it with nissan cleaner; thats what they recommend. if ur getting a bad resistance reading, no cleaning would help.
its either junkyard or OEM. if u get junkyard, get that fuel rail asap since its a PITA to get that out if the engines intact, esp at a junk yard. i doubt they would go thru the trouble themselves to get it out and might not even sell it since they can sell the engine whole (good or bad) for much more cash.
dont go w/ refurbs since heard mixed reviews of them. also for a 3rd gen, a real PITA to swap them out every now and then, even if it costs much less. I bought one recently (from dealer) at about 140 for one. if ur buying two, maybe speak to the manager at the dealer to see if you could get a slight discount (remember those o-rings and various new gaskets - upper, lower manifold, throttle body gasket, iac/aac gasket). these things should last for along time so dont cheap out on them. my new ones works great.
there are some sites that sell it for cheaper and they might be more willing to give a discount (http://www.foreigncarpartsonline.com/, 130 not sure about shipping. can call them and see what they can offer.). if you posted it earlier, we prob cud've teamed up to buy 3. partsamerica also got one, but its from gp sorenson. its the same color and looks like the one i have, but its only 98 dollars.
if they were easier to replace i would suggest just getting refurbs and seeing how long it'll take you. i think for refurbs they mostly sell sets of 6 online.
04-09-2007, 08:49 PM
#6
Well I just got done yanking the tops half of the intake manifold or Manifold collector as it says in the Chilton's (god I need a real FSM). what a PITA for a first timer....but its still easier than working on a 280 million dollar Bomber! I noticed something thats a little wierd to me. the intake holes on the front side of the motor are like a dark golden brown....like syrup. The back 3 are fairly clean for a 93....its got minor sludge but, theres still a little dirt. I'll try to post pics since I have to transfer them from my phone and I have to get ready for work in 30 minutes. Is this a sign of anything? could this be the cause of my crappy fuel mileage and sputter? 
04-09-2007, 09:16 PM
#8
Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 52
i live in brighton - right by market street and brighton avenue. sorry for your loss.
if u need the fsm, i can burn a disc for you (93 and 94 should be similar enough); IM me on aim- evildoughboi - if anyone needs the "94" fsm (has both gxe and se). found the thing on emule. its like 1400 pages; got almost everything you can find. the dl file is like 600 mb, but buried in there was the 94 FSM (only 34mb). i might be able to send it out file by file since each section is in its own pdf file. i can even send u the page w/ the injector stuff on it; its one or two pages. not too informative unless u need to know in which order the bolts have to be tightened. this manual is definitely for people who have done this before. now that i look at it, i totally get it and its a good reference. it helps for first timers. if u need to look up how to do something, go on this forum and look at the faqs. some major instructions (like injector replacement) are on this forum.
also dl'ed the FAST discs - nissan dealer parts software - to find parts and stuff. you can dl it at http://www.phatg20.net/modules.php?n...download&cid=1. got referred to by some post in the 4th gen forums.
heard u can get those parts by part number on nissanparts.cc or something. not exactly sure of the site but usually they have 'em at a slight discount.
the fsm was ok in laying out how to get to the injectors. got some good diagrams and tells you in which order you have to take off/tighten the bolts. not great in telling you what gaskets you should replace. had to go back to the dealer like 3 times to get more gaskets.
the fsm is most likely better than any "service manuals" out in retail; i think they wanted to charge like 100 bucks at the dealer.
if u need the fsm, i can burn a disc for you (93 and 94 should be similar enough); IM me on aim- evildoughboi - if anyone needs the "94" fsm (has both gxe and se). found the thing on emule. its like 1400 pages; got almost everything you can find. the dl file is like 600 mb, but buried in there was the 94 FSM (only 34mb). i might be able to send it out file by file since each section is in its own pdf file. i can even send u the page w/ the injector stuff on it; its one or two pages. not too informative unless u need to know in which order the bolts have to be tightened. this manual is definitely for people who have done this before. now that i look at it, i totally get it and its a good reference. it helps for first timers. if u need to look up how to do something, go on this forum and look at the faqs. some major instructions (like injector replacement) are on this forum.
also dl'ed the FAST discs - nissan dealer parts software - to find parts and stuff. you can dl it at http://www.phatg20.net/modules.php?n...download&cid=1. got referred to by some post in the 4th gen forums.
heard u can get those parts by part number on nissanparts.cc or something. not exactly sure of the site but usually they have 'em at a slight discount.
the fsm was ok in laying out how to get to the injectors. got some good diagrams and tells you in which order you have to take off/tighten the bolts. not great in telling you what gaskets you should replace. had to go back to the dealer like 3 times to get more gaskets.
the fsm is most likely better than any "service manuals" out in retail; i think they wanted to charge like 100 bucks at the dealer.
04-10-2007, 08:28 PM
#12
alright....i found it in another tread.....10-14 sound right? Mine were reading about 12 minus one that was OL and the other that was 14.6.......is 14.6 bad......i dont think .6 would make much of a difference
04-10-2007, 09:40 PM
#13
Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 52
well my new one was like 11.2 while my older ones were 10.9; i think it would go down if it wore out. i did hear from some ppl that got really high resistances. everything has tolerances so i wont be surprised if .6 was ok (cant guarantee that it is, most likely not), esp with worn out car parts that has been cycled that many times at high temperatures.
try to get another measurement on that 14.6 one. make sure all the tips are good (since mines are a lil funny sometimes). if its still 14.6, just swap it out if you got the parts to do it. of course swap out the OL one, the coil inside it is just totally gone from that one.
try to get another measurement on that 14.6 one. make sure all the tips are good (since mines are a lil funny sometimes). if its still 14.6, just swap it out if you got the parts to do it. of course swap out the OL one, the coil inside it is just totally gone from that one.
04-11-2007, 08:27 AM
#14
whatever you do, don't buy REMAN / REBUILT injectors.
I've gotten them and I ended up doing 7 injectors on my car.
brand new injectors run about $100 ea through me if you are interested.
I've gotten them and I ended up doing 7 injectors on my car.
brand new injectors run about $100 ea through me if you are interested.
04-11-2007, 08:41 PM
#17
Just did my injectors a couple of weeks ago. Got the whole fuel wit the 6 injectors for $100. Installed 2 in my max ,cracked 2.,and have 2 for backup the resistance was in the 12's on all. i think its just luck. Chance you take when it comes to junk yards.Also if you decide to do the job yourself make sure you have the gaskets and tools or youll go nuts and new o-rings.
04-11-2007, 09:46 PM
#18
Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 52
yea get a hex tool that connects to a 3/8" socket wrench; it was a major help. i doubt those lil hex keys be able to loosen up the nuts. i got my set at home depot; a lil pricey but it was good. sears prob have them cheaper.
if u dont have one of those magnetic tip extenders to retrieve lost screws and nuts, go out and get one now. i dropped my first nut into the manifold holes. its pretty much impossible to get out without it (tried for like 45 minz until i gave up and went to the store on my bike to get a magnetic thing). advanced auto (or other auto shops, i hope) should have 'em. i bought like 3 different kinds. never kno when ur gonna need it.
if ur going to be removing the injectors, u might have a bit of trouble w/ the screws since its so old. my dad told me a great tip; use the phillips head screw driver, put onto screw head as if u were to loosen it, then grab a hammer and wack at it till the screw loosens. try it every now and then. you should hear a lil crack when u loosen the screw. i took me a good 10 minutes of wacking to get the last screw off. this will also prevent u from totally destroying the phillips heads on the screws.
u'll need the upper and lower manifold gaskets. the other ones should be ok, but the three others you'll loosen are the ones on the iac/aac motor, and the two on each side of the throttle body. they can get expensive so if ur pressed for cash, just get the two for the manifolds.
if u dont have one of those magnetic tip extenders to retrieve lost screws and nuts, go out and get one now. i dropped my first nut into the manifold holes. its pretty much impossible to get out without it (tried for like 45 minz until i gave up and went to the store on my bike to get a magnetic thing). advanced auto (or other auto shops, i hope) should have 'em. i bought like 3 different kinds. never kno when ur gonna need it.
if ur going to be removing the injectors, u might have a bit of trouble w/ the screws since its so old. my dad told me a great tip; use the phillips head screw driver, put onto screw head as if u were to loosen it, then grab a hammer and wack at it till the screw loosens. try it every now and then. you should hear a lil crack when u loosen the screw. i took me a good 10 minutes of wacking to get the last screw off. this will also prevent u from totally destroying the phillips heads on the screws.
u'll need the upper and lower manifold gaskets. the other ones should be ok, but the three others you'll loosen are the ones on the iac/aac motor, and the two on each side of the throttle body. they can get expensive so if ur pressed for cash, just get the two for the manifolds.
04-12-2007, 08:31 AM
#19
Believe me I have the tools......I work on aircraft so i get to check out damn near anything.....how do you think I got to Ohm the injectors out
I never took the throttle body off....or the other "whosamawhatsit".....gimme a break, I just got done yanking a 200lb actuator out of a hole the size of a glove box. just a little tired
I never took the throttle body off....or the other "whosamawhatsit".....gimme a break, I just got done yanking a 200lb actuator out of a hole the size of a glove box. just a little tired
I could not believe it actually, she got the power back and no sputter. Thanks to all that helped me!
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