ve auto starting prob, fuel prob?
04-12-2007, 05:17 PM
#1
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Posts: 59
ve auto starting prob, fuel prob?
I have a 92 ve auto, for a while now when I go to start it, it will crank but wont fire up. then i go to start it again and itll crank a few times and sometimes it takes me tappin the gas then to start it. I replaced the O2 a few years ago, knocksensor a year ago, took injectors out had them cleaned put back in with new o rings, new TPS switched, I have the ful wsp exhaust, lightened pulley.... Also my muffler gets coated with black crap, probably unburned fuel. i can smell fuel when i run to muffler and sniff when it has a rouch time starting. I put new spark plugs in a few weeks ago, I looked at them today and the circle part that goes around the electrode also has the threads on it, but faces combustion, is coated black too.
for months I have been getting 12mpg city driving, i figure i should be getting at least 16-18mpg, it used to long ago. Im not sure what problem I have, car seems to run fine for the most part.
What you guys think it could be or reccomend I check? leaking injectors? no wet fuel on plugs. coolant temp sensor is working, TPS is up to par when checked with multimeter.
for months I have been getting 12mpg city driving, i figure i should be getting at least 16-18mpg, it used to long ago. Im not sure what problem I have, car seems to run fine for the most part.
What you guys think it could be or reccomend I check? leaking injectors? no wet fuel on plugs. coolant temp sensor is working, TPS is up to par when checked with multimeter.
04-12-2007, 05:35 PM
#3
Originally Posted by JakeDilingo
I replaced the O2 a few years ago, knocksensor a year ago, took injectors out had them cleaned put back in with new o rings, new TPS switched,.
04-12-2007, 05:52 PM
#4
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how can i check which injectors are stuck open, and what signs to look for on plugs? all plugs look same and are heavily coated with carbon. It happens at both, hot and cold starting. when its warmed up the idle in neutral is 850-900....ill rev it and it drops to about 1200 and in 3-4 secs goes down to 850-900. ive checked my coolant temp sensor many random times and engine situations and its always working right....i think its injector related, any info to help pinpoint and injector or the cause? thanks guys
04-12-2007, 06:03 PM
#5
Originally Posted by JakeDilingo
how can i check which injectors are stuck open, and what signs to look for on plugs? all plugs look same and are heavily coated with carbon. It happens at both, hot and cold starting. when its warmed up the idle in neutral is 850-900....ill rev it and it drops to about 1200 and in 3-4 secs goes down to 850-900. ive checked my coolant temp sensor many random times and engine situations and its always working right....i think its injector related, any info to help pinpoint and injector or the cause? thanks guys
idle seems high by a litle. have you cleaned IACV and TB yet? my iacv was trash-dirty. but i'm putting a new TPS and o2 sensor on too, before i mess with adjusting the idle.
04-12-2007, 07:37 PM
#6
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Originally Posted by capedcadaver
you have to check the resistance between the two pins on the injector plug. on each injector. anything out of spec means bad injector. the next person will have to post the spec. i don't know it.
idle seems high by a litle. have you cleaned IACV and TB yet? my iacv was trash-dirty. but i'm putting a new TPS and o2 sensor on too, before i mess with adjusting the idle.
idle seems high by a litle. have you cleaned IACV and TB yet? my iacv was trash-dirty. but i'm putting a new TPS and o2 sensor on too, before i mess with adjusting the idle.
04-13-2007, 07:33 PM
#8
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figured it out... ALL 6 tested 11.2-11.6 ohms like 4 were 11.5. could one or more still be sticking open?..
would a corroded wire harness that actually connects to the TPS cause my problems? i think its the hard closed switch, i forget, but its not the one that has wires to the tps then to a connector, it directly plugs into top of tps. boot on that is cracked and wires are green..do i need to cut the harness and directly wire it to the tps?
would a corroded wire harness that actually connects to the TPS cause my problems? i think its the hard closed switch, i forget, but its not the one that has wires to the tps then to a connector, it directly plugs into top of tps. boot on that is cracked and wires are green..do i need to cut the harness and directly wire it to the tps?
04-13-2007, 07:52 PM
#9
Originally Posted by JakeDilingo
figured it out... ALL 6 tested 11.2-11.6 ohms like 4 were 11.5. could one or more still be sticking open?..
would a corroded wire harness that actually connects to the TPS cause my problems? i think its the hard closed switch, i forget, but its not the one that has wires to the tps then to a connector, it directly plugs into top of tps. boot on that is cracked and wires are green..do i need to cut the harness and directly wire it to the tps?
would a corroded wire harness that actually connects to the TPS cause my problems? i think its the hard closed switch, i forget, but its not the one that has wires to the tps then to a connector, it directly plugs into top of tps. boot on that is cracked and wires are green..do i need to cut the harness and directly wire it to the tps?
http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u...s/IMG_2103.jpg
my car still starts...
I'm soldering a new harness on, and bought a new TPS anyways. I have had other sorts of problems that may be related to it (corroded connectors are never good..) so I decided to get new stuff to replace it with. I don't know if that would cause it to be dysfunctional as yours is. One way to see, if you suspect it, disconnect it (hey it rhymes) but yeah, if you see a chance in behaviour, or if it works when you short the hard-closed wires on the harness end, maybe you found your problem.
the wires are supposed to be green. just not the metal connectors.
04-13-2007, 08:36 PM
#10
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Originally Posted by capedcadaver
http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u...s/IMG_2112.jpg
http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u...s/IMG_2103.jpg
my car still starts...
I'm soldering a new harness on, and bought a new TPS anyways. I have had other sorts of problems that may be related to it (corroded connectors are never good..) so I decided to get new stuff to replace it with. I don't know if that would cause it to be dysfunctional as yours is. One way to see, if you suspect it, disconnect it (hey it rhymes) but yeah, if you see a chance in behaviour, or if it works when you short the hard-closed wires on the harness end, maybe you found your problem.
the wires are supposed to be green. just not the metal connectors.
http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u...s/IMG_2103.jpg
my car still starts...
I'm soldering a new harness on, and bought a new TPS anyways. I have had other sorts of problems that may be related to it (corroded connectors are never good..) so I decided to get new stuff to replace it with. I don't know if that would cause it to be dysfunctional as yours is. One way to see, if you suspect it, disconnect it (hey it rhymes) but yeah, if you see a chance in behaviour, or if it works when you short the hard-closed wires on the harness end, maybe you found your problem.
the wires are supposed to be green. just not the metal connectors.
ya the metal connectors are green
will try unplugging it for a few drives, thanks man
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