that's fine. i did that when i was still driiving my 3rd gen. i just took some 3/4" mdf and made speaker rings. bolted the rings to the doors and then the speakers onto that. it'll give enough clearance for the magnet...and it's still shallow enough that the door panel won't hit it.

this is what i did on my 6th gen. same principle.

 

I'll be going to home depot in a few mins. Here are the front speakers.

 

How much wood do you think I need for the whole car. Will the rear speakers need this too? I read a bunch about this but forgot it all, I know someone on here makes new pods but it's been a little while. Should I put a strip of foam between the pod - door, and speaker - pod?

 

You didn't have bose originally? If not then you should be fine without speaker brackets in the back. As for how much wood you'll need, 1' by 2' should be plenty. So a square foot per side.

 

No bose, it's a gxe. So 1-2 ft sq per side plus 7 in sq for the speaker rings right.

 

well one square foot per side, but just don't get 2 square feet because it won't be the right shape, you'd want it to either be two 1x1 pieces, or a 1x2 piece of wood. Sounds like you got it under control.

 

Thanks, time to go slave away.

 

home depot sells a sheet of 2' x 4' mdf for like under 10 bucks. just get a sheet of that and you're set. you'll have a bit left over though.

 

Thanks, about to go there now.

 

Hello, I cannot start new threads but my dilemna is in the same topic, I have a 90 max with clarion active speakers and I believe the rear amps are bad I get this inggggggsound all the time. does anyone have any experience in repairing this amp, ( sorry mod)

 

You will be better off replacing the amp(just one rear amp on the clarion) with a used unit if you want to the stock system...

Check your local junkyards for a used amp,or check the classified section here..

Classifieds---> http://forums.maxima.org/forumdisplay.php?f=62

 

I wouldn't even bother replacing the amp, just get an aftermarket head unit, and speakers, and bypass the amp.

 

Can you not just jump across the speaker amps and still be able to keep the Bose speakers in place?

 

Nope, you can't just jump across the speaker amps. AFAIK the Bose speakers are something like 1 Ohm, where as every aftermarket head unit you will ever see is designed to drive 4 Ohm speakers, and won't be able to power the 1 Ohm Bose speakers. Besides that, those Bose speakers are pretty old anyway. If you are going to spend the money to replace the head unit, you might as well pitch in for some halfway decent aftermarket speakers.

 

Quickywd01 - how'd the install go?

 

Hey, this is what u want. Pepboys Auto: Sale in paper today has a Sony Xplod with mp3/wma and ipod hookups 50w X 4 blah balh loaded for $60bucks. SPX 800 sub package with 2 Subs, Box, Amp, and Amp wireing kit for $90 bucks. Get a wiring harness for your car at walmart for like $15, and you have a decent system for under 200 (minus your precious time to put it all in). Electronic express has some 6x9 sonys that will fit for like $40 bucks and 6.5 for the front for $50 I think if you want new speakers. I just cut the amps for the speakers. You have to splice the amps, they don't sound bad cause they are bose, but they also don't get too loud.

 

U Can jump across if you rewireing them because I run my too front Bose like that right now, and I have been doing it for about a 2 years. I have a regular 4ohm cd player and they sound pretty good. I ran my rear boses (after a spliced them) for about a year before one of them went out, so i'm not exactly sure if its worth your time to splice considering you can get decent speakers for under 100 if you shop.

 

The worry isn't with the bose when you bypass the amps, its the amp in the head unit. You're severely shortening the life of the amp in the headunit that way. Apparently its do-able, but I still wouldn't recommend it.

 

yep, i wouldn't recommend powering 1 ohm speakers with an amp that isn't stable or designed to work below 4. it'll work for a bit, until the excess heat prematurely kills it.

 

It will shorten the life of the head unit's internal amplifier for sure. Just how long the amp last for will probably depend on the quality of the head unit to begin with. It is also likely that you will experience distortion at a much lower volume. Speakers just aren't that expensive, or difficult to replace, IMO it isn't worth risking a brand new head unit to reuse the old speakers.

 

I've been so busy but I finally got everything in. Made mounts for the front speakers and temporary mounts for the rears since I will have to cut the metal deck to make clearance for the new speakers. The sub is more powerful than I thought it would be. I think it helped my cat. shield fall off. I was getting off the highway and it started to drag and fell off. Also my dash would dim when the sub hit but I'll have to check it out some more. So far so good, now I just need some tint.

 

I just replaced my factory bose h/u in a 93 maxima using the factory to aftermarket harness, spliced the correct wires and used to antenna adapter but i get no sound from my front or rear speakers...anybody HELP PLEASE!

 

so you've missed all the threads that say what you did wrong.
just to recap
1. replacing bose HU without speakers at the same time
2. missed the second blue wire

 

I think my sub crapped out. http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....66#post5963666 It looks fine but I guess maybe internally something got messed up. I dunno I'm not an audio expert.

 

ugh, been there done that.
still haven't bought a new sub for it yet.

 

I need to replace it soon, driving without it sucks since my car needs so many parts and no radio all I can think about is all the crap that needs to be replaced.

 

My alpine type-r 12" 1242d just came in last night. I need to wire it so that it's a 2-ohm load since my amp gives most power in 2-ohm. I was looking at this diagram :



and I don't know if it matters where I connect the wires from the amp to the sub. Do I connect the positive and negative to the same voice coil or a negative on one and a positive on the other?

 

First off, I just want to make sure that your amp is a MONO amp. If it is a STEREO amplifier that you intend to run BRIDGED, then you need to go over the manual very carefully to insure that it can indeed handle a 2 Ohm load in Bridged mode. Most stereo amplifiers are only stable with a 2 Ohm load in stereo mode, and can not handle anything less than a 4 Ohm load in bridged mode.


It does matter, and that diagram is confusing for that reason. I am assuming that your sub is a 4 Ohm unit. If you want to present a 2 Ohm load to the amplifier, then you need to run your voice coils in parallel. That would be the same as running two sets of wires from your amp, and connecting one set of wires to each voice coil. The diagram is showing you a short cut where you only need one set of wires from the amp. For this to work, you run a wire from the positive terminal of your amp to the positive terminal of ONE coil. Now run a wire from the negative terminal of your amp to the negative terminal of the SAME voice coil. Now use two shorter wires to connect the positive terminal on one voice coil to the positive terminal on the other voice coil, and likewise with the negative terminals.

 

Thanks for the info. It should work, the amp's a alpine mono amp (link for ref: http://www.alpine-usa.com/US-en/prod...model=MRP-M450 ) and the subwoofer is a alpine type-r 12" 1242d (link for ref: http://www.alpine-usa.com/US-en/prod...odel=SWR-1242D )

 

You don't have to replace the speakers. I have a top of the like kenwood in my car with the stock bose speakers still in there and it sounds great. I would go with a kenwood or a alpine head unit. most new alpines have ipod adapters withe them.

 

You don't have to replace the speakers per se, but it certainly shortens the life of your HU by a significant margin, especially as your playing through higher volumes. HU amps are generally rated at 4 ohms, the Bose in our cars are rated at 1 ohm. It's plain to see that they aren't meant to work together.

 

Learn something now everyday.

 

That the Bose run at 1 ohm had been hinted to throughout the thread when Calvin brought up line levels, Tquick says it here, and I had thought I posted almost the exact same thing earlier in this thread but it must have been a different stereo thread. They seem to pop up a lot.

 

Just to be completely clear on this, it WILL work, as in you will get sound out of the speakers. The problem is that when you run the after market HU with a 1 Ohm load, it makes a lot more power than it was designed to handle, which translates to a lot more heat inside the HU than it was designed to handle. That means that you'll likely get distortion out of the speakers at a lower volume level, and that you'll wear out the amplifier in the HU a lot faster than you should.

 

I see Could you use some kind of resister on the speaker wires?

 

From what I understand [I don't have any formal training in electrics] you could use a resistor to change the load the HU amp sees, but you would end up placing potentially even more strain on the amp with the power needed to play the speakers at an acceptable volume.

It's a ridiculous thing to consider given the price at which you can buy speakers at.

Although I wouldn't mind someone chiming in to actually explain what the resistor would do to load and whatnot for curiosities sake.

 

I just don't want to replace the speakers tell I have to. So when they go out I will replace. I'm cheap like that.

 

Well with how Bose hold up just throw the HU in there and run them off that, it shouldn't be long until they go out anyway. I wouldn't do, risks your HU amp, but if you want to go with an external amp to power your speakers then blowing your HU amp shouldn't matter at all!

but I still wouldnt...

 

There has been a after market HU in there for about two years now, so I'm just waiting to see how much longer the bose speakers have left.

 

a resistor is $5 for a pack (high estimate) versus $20 for the cheapest crappiest speakers you can get.
I'd rather do the resistor myself if it was an option.