1992 SE 3.0 AT

The car needs new CV Joints. So, it appears cheap enough to just buy new Axles. Here's the question:

1. Can the saavy 'Backyard' mechanic replace these himself ?
--> Iv'e replaced axles on an old nissan before
--> Are there any 'Gotchas' ?

2. Is it cheaper just to pay a garage to do the work @ +/- $130 per axle ?
--> Taking all the rust into consideration ????

Whats the opinion.

 

I think if you prepare right and have the correct tools it should not be a big deal for the "backyarder", especially if you already have axle-replacement experience.

Having said that, I've never done axles myself. But I've done many other repairs noticed that a versatile set of tools is the best way to tackle the unknown.

 

I agree, and feel the same way.

I'm certainly not intimidated to try, but at the same time, don't want to run into some 'irregular' situation where the the car would then need to be towed to a station from some $250 tool I would need once.

Not long ago, I tackled my first timing belt [1998 Ford Escort].

-Jim

 

you can do it yourself.
the only semi-special tool is the axle nut socket, and that's only because of it's size.

 

The biggest challenge would be getting that nut off that Brian mentioned. Where is Avon at?

 

Avon, Indiana is about 20 minutes West, of Indianapolis. I live about 5 minutes from Lowes Home improvement on Rt 36[Rockville rd].
Lowes map

 

I've just done the passenger side of my '92 SE 5sp and it was relatively simple. You need a 36mm (if I remember properly) Socket for the spindle nut and a Torque wrench that goes up to about 200ft-lbs. Also to get it off an impact wrench makes the job easier. No need to do anything to the rest of the brakes or hub, just remove the lower ball joint and pull the spindle out of the assembly and let the assy. hang by the strut. You should always replace the axle seal at the transmission. Be careful not to seat the seal in too far, just flush with the transmission surface. The new seals don't seem to have a flange to seat against (although I've found that even if you seat it in too far it still seals).
I made a seal seating tool from a plastic pipe adapter (that just fit the seal outside the dust ridge without overhanging the seal). I went to the local hardward store and found a plastic piece that had a smooth side with a flat to push in the seal evenly without cutting it and attached it to a ~18" pipe. I used this setup to tap in the seal STRAIGHT IN, don't tilt it.
The passenger side support bearing is tight to get at but do-able. I didn't do the drivers side axle, but with the exception of pulling out and relocking its' lock ring into the tranny, it shouldn't be very different. With the A/T I think you must remove the passenger axle first and use a drift to tap out the drivers axle from the hole where the pass.axle used to be. Remember when you take out or put in the axles that they are extremely flexible at the joints and can bend very far to ease insertion. Grease up the splines on the ends went inserting to prevent damaging seals.
Here's a good writeup on it. http://www.4dsc.com/articles/drivetr...cv_boots.shtml

 

Passenger axle can be a b!tch if it's stuck in the support. All this talk about the axle nut is pointless, that's about the easiest part of the job if you ask me. Impact wrench or even a breaker bar will do if you loosen it with the wheel on the ground. But yeah, go for it, just save the beer and your temper for the passenger side.

 

Hah, that was the best write-up I've ever read. Period.

 

Cool write up.I wonder how many beers I would need. Hummmmmmmmmmm

 

1656 cans

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=488690

 

No joke. It once took me 3 days to get the passenger side axle out (and I'm no novice!) because it was rusted into the carrier bearing

 

rookie

there's really no trick to it.

the way i get it separate is get a hammer and a punch/drift. hit one of the ears on the axle side...(not the side that bolts to the car).

once it start to turn you can shoot some PB blaster in there or something similar and just keep turning it until it starts to separate. once it does that get that pry bar and separate them.

 

Yeah, that's what I ended up doing, but it was so rusted together I couldnt even see where the two parts met. It was melded into one solid hunk of rusty junk

 

Give it a shot, you never know until you try.

 

All these replies have been encouraging. Encouraging in the sense that, aside from time, banging, a big socket and some Beer, this appears to be very do-able.

I gonna go for it. An extra thanks to those that posted info links.

-Jim

 

It a simple task, like what has been said, axle nut and carrier bearing are the only hang-ups.

The seal idea is always a good one. What I always do is get the seal in place and seat it using the axle.

 

I got lucky with mine. The support bearing wasn't rusted in and just pulled right out. Hardest part was getting those bolts back in in the narrow space between the bearing support, engine support beam and manifold. I found someone with long thin fingers to get them started.

 

just take the drivers side out. then after the passanger is ready . drive a thin wood doll rod into the trasmission case hitting the passenger center spline . 3 taps with a five pound hammer and its out.

 

I did both axles a couple years ago with my dad's friend, it took three hours and they were swapped. He had a car lift though so that made everything easier.

 

Sounds like you were a victim of electrolosis, good sir.