Hello Everybody! some time ago I asked for your help about a clacking noise coming from the front axle. You guys got it right, problem was CV axles, so I end up replacing CV axles because according to the mechanic my CV boots were damaged and there was no more grease on the axles so that was causing the noise. Indeed after the repair I drove it and the clacking sound was gone, I been so happy for about two months and this week the same sound start again.
The clacking sound happens only when I accelerate from a stop. I don't think its a ball joint problem because it's not in the turns, it's just when I hit the gas from a stop light, doesn't happen in reverse or while driving.
My question is: Could my CV boots got damaged so soon? if CV Boots/CV axles are not the problem where else can I check?
Oh! BTW mechanic also replace a cracked boot from the Rack and pinion, just so you know in case you think that could be causing a similar problem.
Thanks in advance for all your input.

 

I dont think new CV boots would get damaged so quickly, unless they were torn by some large road debris. I'm sure you can go to any service station and have them lift the car to check out the boots, no one charges for checking things like that. Other than that, you may have a worn bushing somewhere, do you have any oil or power steering fluid leaks?

 

Yes, I have an oil leak, I'm not sure where but I can see oil close to the Spark plug 2 and 3, besides My cylinder 2 is dead due this I'm planning a engine swap soon. so do you think oil on the CV boot may cause it to get damaged?

 

Is it like a clunk or groaning noise when you accelerate from a stop? It it is, that may be worn out engine mounts or lower control arm bushings.

 

No, but it would damage bushings.

Are you only chaning engines because of this top leak? It sounds like its just valve cover gaskets, and that is fairly easy to fix, and cheap if you can do it yourself. Check out the autozone repair guides for more info.

 

I have no compression at cilinder #2 a guy told me it's because I have blown head gaskets. Mechanic and here at the org told me it's better to swap engine than replace head gaskets. Unfortunately I'm still not sure where is my leak exactly and I don't have enough mechanic knowledge to diagnose this for myself. I just put a Lucas on the Max to see if that buy me some time to save more money for the engine swap, but this noise really bother me

The sound its like a clunk just 3 or 4 times then it goes away but it happen almost every time I stop completely and then accelerate again.

 

While I am not an authority on head gaskets, instinctively I would think that nearby cylinders on that bank would also show some compression loss, how is the compression on them? And which one is #2 again? I can never keep track.

Did you get this diagnosis at Nissan, or at a shop somewhere?

Someone who has dealt with head gaskets will probably give some advice in a little bit.

 

Well I'm not even sure about the # either, I'm just saying what the mechanic told me, he said I have no compression at all on the middle cylinder of the rear ones and the one to the right of that one was behaving weird (don't know/explain what he mean with that). Then I choose a different mechanic to do the CV axles job and I ask him if he can check my engine and he told me he have no equipment to check compression but he said again that the one in the middle of the rear ones was dead and I been running with only 5 cylinders ( I don't know how he figure that out without equipment) and I didn't mention what the previous mechanic told me.

I really want to get a diagnosis at a reputable shop but places like Midas or Firestone charge a Gold Bar just for a test. Last time I went to ask for Engine Diagnose was $129. So I'm still in the middle of nowhere with this problem.

Well about the Clunk noise, if the problem were control arm bushings do you know the cost of this parts?

Thank you so much for your time and help!

 

you can't really call those places reputable. They are there to make as much money as possible off of you period. they don't expect repeat customers, they get you in with their lifetime warranty part and then stick it up the poop chute every time you come back for the warranty. If you get ANY work done at those places and walk out paying less than $400 consider yourself VERY lucky

the bushings in poly are about $40 shipped
the bushings in rubber are quite a bit more.
the arms complete are a bit less than $60ea.

 

Try to find a local shop that people in your area recommend, or that at least seems reputable. Just come and say your car is driving weird and has problems, they will check it out but I probably wont charge you unless you commit to a repair.

A few years ago I had Nissan check some things for me, they did a diagnostic for $90, and you can credit that toward a repair if you want to do it at the dealer.

 

You are Right Internetautomar, I should say "reputable" because that's what they want you to believe, not exactly that they really are. I remember First and Last Time I went to Midas (about three years ago) before I knew of this forum and didn't had any experience at all with the max I just stop by asking how much to replace spark plugs, they give me a List of "recommended" service all I remember is they want to change the spark plugs, ignition wires, blower/rotor, air filter and one more thing that I forgot for a grand total of $595 I walk out of there so down thinking that My car was very sick and need a lot of work, then I told some friends and they laugh at me saying the I should be crazy to go to a place like that because it was like walking into a thief just waiting for them to take the bills out of my wallet for nothing.
Well I End up replacing myself the air filter, spark plugs and ignition wires in 20 minutes. And the Max ran a lot better back then. Well that's the story.

About the bushings what is the difference between poly and rubber? actually which ones are better? the rubber ones? do you have pictures of the bushings and complete arm on your web site?

Thank you mikekantor, but that's the problem in my area, some time ago Midas looked reputable but you know the story now, and I've had some other bad experiences that It's hard for me to choose a place to do this kind of jobs, all the people I know around here don't know any good shop, at work a coworker recommend to me this Asian guy who used to work for Honda and I did the CV axles work with him and he did a good job. So maybe I'll keep doing repairs with him as long as he do things right.

 

Rubber bushings are what the factory uses stock, it allows for a quiter more compliant ride. The poly bushings can be a bit noisier and they transmit more of the road noise back into the car. Their advantage is that they are impervious to oils and increase the cars handling abilities.

there should be pictures of the arms on my site. I can come up with pictures of the bushings separately if you wish.
sounds like a plan to me

 

Just avoid the repair shops which are chain stores or franchises. Local places where you can walk in and see the owner sitting at the desk taking calls and barking orders tend to be much better.

I went to maps.google.com, did a search for "nissan repair" near Fullerton, CA and got some promising results. Do the same search and call around the results, maybe you'll get a straight answer from one of them.

 

Ok Sorry I got a little bit lost here, I know one thing is the Arm and different one the bushings, but the one you said complete is the arm with bushings? or it's the complete arm for $60 plus $40 of the bushings? might sound dumb but I have no idea on prices that's why I ask

 

you can buy the arm with standard rubber bushings already installed for $57.75 per side (plus shipping) or you can buy the bushings in polyurethane for both sides for $40.
did that make sense?