trick for repairing valve cover gasket leak
08-04-2007, 05:59 PM
#1
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trick for repairing valve cover gasket leak
I have a very small oil leak from the front valve cover that drips upon braking. Not enough to drop the oil level, but a nuiance. It looks like to replace the gasket, the throttle body and cable, spark plug wires must be removed. Looks like a lot of work. Any easy way to stop the drip?
On the Road
93 GXE 125,000
On the Road
93 GXE 125,000
08-04-2007, 06:25 PM
#2
You could try tightening the screws. Sometimes they become loose and cause oil to leak from the valve cover area.
You are correct.. To remove the front valve cover you must remove the wires, upper intake plenum (throttle body, etc.)
Good luck.
You are correct.. To remove the front valve cover you must remove the wires, upper intake plenum (throttle body, etc.)
Good luck.
08-04-2007, 10:08 PM
#3
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Originally Posted by aminus21
You could try tightening the screws. Sometimes they become loose and cause oil to leak from the valve cover area.
You are correct.. To remove the front valve cover you must remove the wires, upper intake plenum (throttle body, etc.)
Good luck.
You are correct.. To remove the front valve cover you must remove the wires, upper intake plenum (throttle body, etc.)
Good luck.
I tried tighten the screws. They seem tight. Possible some dirt is between the gasket and metal. What is the gasket made of -- cork, rubber, silcone rubber. If the its a reusable silicone rubber gasket, I was thinking of spraying cleaner, then lossening the screw and spraying cleaner under cover to clean before tighten. Or it that a losing idea?
08-05-2007, 02:43 AM
#4
You can try using slightly thicker oil as well. Perhaps 10w-40 might help you out a bit. You're gonna have to go through the pain of repacing the gaskets eventually. Might as well try and tackle the job while it's nice out 
08-05-2007, 08:41 AM
#5
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Originally Posted by OnTheRoad
Matt,
I tried tighten the screws. They seem tight. Possible some dirt is between the gasket and metal. What is the gasket made of -- cork, rubber, silcone rubber. If the its a reusable silicone rubber gasket, I was thinking of spraying cleaner, then lossening the screw and spraying cleaner under cover to clean before tighten. Or it that a losing idea?
I tried tighten the screws. They seem tight. Possible some dirt is between the gasket and metal. What is the gasket made of -- cork, rubber, silcone rubber. If the its a reusable silicone rubber gasket, I was thinking of spraying cleaner, then lossening the screw and spraying cleaner under cover to clean before tighten. Or it that a losing idea?
It should be a rubber gasket. And you should replace it. I tried RTV on the orginal gasket and it was leaking in 8K miles. Just get new nissan gaskets and do it right the first time.
~Alex
08-05-2007, 10:08 PM
#6
Originally Posted by Alex_V
I would not want to blow dirt into an engine like that. Unless your trying to damage it.
It should be a rubber gasket. And you should replace it. I tried RTV on the orginal gasket and it was leaking in 8K miles. Just get new nissan gaskets and do it right the first time.
~Alex
It should be a rubber gasket. And you should replace it. I tried RTV on the orginal gasket and it was leaking in 8K miles. Just get new nissan gaskets and do it right the first time.
~Alex
wow, am I seeing right??
08-06-2007, 06:27 PM
#7
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Posts: 231
Originally Posted by Alex_V
I would not want to blow dirt into an engine like that. Unless your trying to damage it.
It should be a rubber gasket. And you should replace it. I tried RTV on the orginal gasket and it was leaking in 8K miles. Just get new nissan gaskets and do it right the first time.
~Alex
It should be a rubber gasket. And you should replace it. I tried RTV on the orginal gasket and it was leaking in 8K miles. Just get new nissan gaskets and do it right the first time.
~Alex
08-06-2007, 06:30 PM
#8
Originally Posted by OnTheRoad
Alex thanks for the advise. I has hoping that the gasket could be slipped under without a complete removal of the air pleum and throttle body.
appearantly you've never changed em on the max since you thought they could be slipped in. innocence is cute
08-08-2007, 01:07 PM
#9
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Posts: 231
Originally Posted by ColombianMax
I wish it was that easy where you could just slip the gasket in...
appearantly you've never changed em on the max since you thought they could be slipped in. innocence is cute
appearantly you've never changed em on the max since you thought they could be slipped in. innocence is cute
On the Road
93 GXE 127,000 miles
08-08-2007, 10:41 PM
#10
First time with the right tools and basic mechanic skills and assuming nothing goes wrong (such as stripped, broken, or anything of that sort) I'd say a good 2-5 hours.
Took me 7 hours my first time but that was because I had a stripped 6mm hex bolt, all vacuum hoses were rotted and needed new clamps. Also didnt know that you had to remove the distributor so thats where most of my time went. Second time doing it took me 3 hours start to stop and that was with on nForces max with the help of Alex V. 3rd time which included changing injectors on gfs maxima= 2 hours start to stop. All depends on you.
so if you're gonna do it, make sure you have spare vacuum hoses, carb cleaner, radiator hose clamps, might help to change your fuel injection hoses/clamps while there if they look bad.
Gaskets at top of my head:
-Plenum (Plentum?)
-Upper Intake Manifold
-2 EGR valve gaskets
-Throttle body gasket (I think its 2)
-2 valve cover gaskets
Took me 7 hours my first time but that was because I had a stripped 6mm hex bolt, all vacuum hoses were rotted and needed new clamps. Also didnt know that you had to remove the distributor so thats where most of my time went. Second time doing it took me 3 hours start to stop and that was with on nForces max with the help of Alex V. 3rd time which included changing injectors on gfs maxima= 2 hours start to stop. All depends on you.
so if you're gonna do it, make sure you have spare vacuum hoses, carb cleaner, radiator hose clamps, might help to change your fuel injection hoses/clamps while there if they look bad.
Gaskets at top of my head:
-Plenum (Plentum?)
-Upper Intake Manifold
-2 EGR valve gaskets
-Throttle body gasket (I think its 2)
-2 valve cover gaskets
08-10-2007, 07:30 AM
#14
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Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 231
Thanks for the info and time/material estimate
Thanks for all the advise. Looks like for now, it will be cleaning and retorquing it. I'll wait until there a larger leak or other issue in that area. The cover is likely leaking because the dealer dropped a washer down the spark plug hole and had to remove the head to remove the part that fell into the cylinder. 
They didn't charge me for the fix. Possible done under warranty.
They didn't charge me for the fix. Possible done under warranty.
08-10-2007, 10:30 AM
#15
Originally Posted by ColombianMax
First time with the right tools and basic mechanic skills and assuming nothing goes wrong (such as stripped, broken, or anything of that sort) I'd say a good 2-5 hours.
Took me 7 hours my first time but that was because I had a stripped 6mm hex bolt, all vacuum hoses were rotted and needed new clamps. Also didnt know that you had to remove the distributor so thats where most of my time went. Second time doing it took me 3 hours start to stop and that was with on nForces max with the help of Alex V. 3rd time which included changing injectors on gfs maxima= 2 hours start to stop. All depends on you.
so if you're gonna do it, make sure you have spare vacuum hoses, carb cleaner, radiator hose clamps, might help to change your fuel injection hoses/clamps while there if they look bad.
Gaskets at top of my head:
-Plenum (Plentum?)
-Upper Intake Manifold
-2 EGR valve gaskets
-Throttle body gasket (I think its 2)
-2 valve cover gaskets
Took me 7 hours my first time but that was because I had a stripped 6mm hex bolt, all vacuum hoses were rotted and needed new clamps. Also didnt know that you had to remove the distributor so thats where most of my time went. Second time doing it took me 3 hours start to stop and that was with on nForces max with the help of Alex V. 3rd time which included changing injectors on gfs maxima= 2 hours start to stop. All depends on you.
so if you're gonna do it, make sure you have spare vacuum hoses, carb cleaner, radiator hose clamps, might help to change your fuel injection hoses/clamps while there if they look bad.
Gaskets at top of my head:
-Plenum (Plentum?)
-Upper Intake Manifold
-2 EGR valve gaskets
-Throttle body gasket (I think its 2)
-2 valve cover gaskets
if you want to do the job right you'll also need the rubber washers that's between the metal washer and the screw that's holding the valve cover down. that washer is the part that's wearing away and then you lose the torque on the valve cover to the head.
08-10-2007, 06:44 PM
#16
Originally Posted by DanNY
for some reason i don't remember removing the distributor.
if you want to do the job right you'll also need the rubber washers that's between the metal washer and the screw that's holding the valve cover down. that washer is the part that's wearing away and then you lose the torque on the valve cover to the head.
if you want to do the job right you'll also need the rubber washers that's between the metal washer and the screw that's holding the valve cover down. that washer is the part that's wearing away and then you lose the torque on the valve cover to the head.
i had to remove distributor to unscrew the screw underneeth it so completely remove valve cover off for power washing. if you know how to get it off without removing the dist I'd really like to know how so I can save some time next time
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