nforce uses about 3L per change, whereas I can drain/fill 4L. is something very very wrong with this? improper drainage on his part? sludge in the pan?

what do most of you DIY VG owners get when you change your oil?

 

It takes me about 4 3/4 Quarts (4.5 Liters) dependant on how level I am sitting when I change it.

 

Around 3.5 quarts.

 

i changed my oil about 3 weeks ago and i put in 4 quarts. i believe the owners manual says when u change the oil and oil filter it will take 4 and 1/8 quarts

 

I go by the FSM and that should be 4 quarts and just a bit more. Cheatham's on the right track

 

I always get just over 4 in there. I have no idea where todd is getting 3 from

~Alex

 

The motor takes 4 1/8 w/ oil filter...there shouldn't be any variances from motor to motor...

 

mine is pretty much exactly 4. sometimes just a bit over 4

 

Sure, unless you consider some variables. What angle the car is parked, how high on the dipstick are these people filling to, did they run the car before they checked it, ect.. Nissan's spec is probably full capacity, as in the max. line on the dipstick.

 

4 quarts everytime with a Nissan filter

or 4 qts = 4.23 liters. Engine needs to be warmed up to drain it properly.

If you are only doing 3 liters, I would think there is a problem

 

I've been changing oil myself in my 90 GXE for almost 18 years, since its new purchase. Even when this car was new, I could never put in more than 4 quarts (with Nissan filter) without exceeding the max line on the dipstick. In recent years I've been using Fram filters and can only put in 3.7-3.8 quarts. I went to the dealership's parts counter in 1990 or 1991 to compare their dipstick with mine because I suspected mine was the wrong one. Turned out theirs was identical to mine. I remember reading a Nissan article years ago at Trak Auto saying that Nissan had corrected its oil capacity for Maxima (at least for MY 90). I don't remember the exact number but I think the then-newly established capacity was like 4.2 quarts, less than what's said in the owner's manual. I usually raised the car's front-end during oil change to drain more oil. I've also tried to use a vacuum/suction device in addition to the usual drain method to get more oil out. But simply could not add more than 4 quarts. I check oil in my garage which has a fairly level floor. The car is still doing very well so I don't worry about how much oil can be changed any more. But I do keep the oil at 100% full mark all the time.

 

Why do people keep thinking that? Heres something for you to chew on. If the car has sat for a decent amount of time (6-12hrs) all the oil will be in the pan. You drain said pan and get 99% of the oil.

If you start the engine up, you put 1/4 to 3/4 of a quart in the engine. Sure you heat it up a little and make it a little easier to move around, but you just coated the engine in old oil. So when you do drain it you only change 3 3/4 of a quart instead of just over 4.

~Alex

 

I am changing my oil either today or tomorrow, I will make sure to update on how much i got out/in. If it matters to anyone, I am/will be using Mobil1 5w-30 (synthetic) and a Purolator PureOne filter.

 

I think capedcadaver and I didnt calculate right. I use those 5qt / 4.78L containers and to the 3rd line on them would be about 4L which converts to 4.22 qt. So I am doing my oil changes right

 

Well, I'm burning oil like mad anyway, but 4 3/4 q. (4 1/2 minimum) is still the amount #1 takes on level ground with a Napa 1361 filter in order to show full.

 

Ya, see i use a 4qt container and an extra quart to top off where necessary. But I know the big one will always go in fully, so i just have a little left over in the quart.

 

I just put in about 4.3 qts a couple hours ago. I was scared for a second because i drained it cold (no problems, came right out) but since i drained more than usual, when i fired it up it took a second for the pressure to build and the filter to fill and circulate up to the valves and whatnot.. and it sounded really rough for a second. I hope nothing got messed too badly.

 

That is normal my VG sounds really bad every start up for about 10 secs its proabably the lifters.

 

Something I tend to do when changing my oil is to pull the ignition coil plug and crank the motor over for 10-15 seconds (in 2-3 shorter cranks) to get the new oil blowing and to let the pressure increase before letting it run. Since motor bearings are hydrostatic, they require a pressurized oil film to keep them from contacting metal-on-metal (which causes wear). German dealerships are known to do this when performing oil changes.

 

Does it work? If so I think I may start doing this as well. I'm sure some of you guys remember a video I made back during cold season last year...

 

i'd rather let the motor stall out by pulling the fuel pump fuse and not load the cylinders with gas cranking it with no spark.. but such a short time may not make a difference.

 

i think the vg engines upside down oil filter can either hold the 1\4~1\2
quart or let it drain out so i always check after it sits for the true reading

 

maybe a filter with a valve in it like some of the Fram Tough Guard or Purolater might be better for our engines. They have that drainback valve. So you have a full filter each startup.

 

When I changed my oil I looked in the manual which states that the engine requires 4 and 1/8 qts. of oil so I bought 5 qts. After putting in 4 qts. it seemed like it was a little over filled according to the dipstick.

 

you need to start and run the engine for a few minuets then check the oil after its sat for at least an hour or two, because you need to fill up the oil filter.

~Alex

 

That didn't change my oil level. It was still at the top mark.

 

i use Purolator Pureone. as far as i can tell the valve works. My lifters tick a little for a second but once it's fully warm it's all good.

 

with every VG motor I'v owned 4 of them now I'ved put 4 1/2 qt with filter change, thats what my FSM says for my 85. When I do a oil change i drain the pan remove the filter put the new filter on put the plug back in and add new oil then start the car let it run till oil pressure goes to where it should be then shut down and check oil. 4 1/2 puts it right at the full mark when sitting on flat ground.

 

mine has always taken 4 1/2 qts.

 

then we can conclude that either nForce misread his container of new oil, or that he has a problem with his engine.

 

I think we can conclude that you didn't read post #14?

 

I already posted that I did miss read the container. I use those 5qt ones which are like 4.78L which is 5qt. I always use about 4.1L which is 4.3qt

 

naw i read it. I was just sort of putting an end to the thread and all. because I think that it's about done with. that was actually a signal to go ahead and close it off.

 

You mean lock it?

 

ya, there's nothing more to say.

 

Just because a thread topic has been discussed out/or problem solved doesn't mean it should be locked..

Lets say for instance a new member comes along in a month or two,and has the same question along the same lines as this thread,well then he could post in this thread with his question without having to hijack another thread that has nothing to do with his question..

The only reason threads get locked are due the subject matter of the thread not being on the topic of the forum/off topic from it's original topic/or just plain stupid all together.

 

oh yeah. didn't think about that. sorry, i commonly lack in common sense.