Brake Caliper Change
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 3,085
From: CT
Re: Paint also?
Originally posted by blackandwhite
I was thinking about painting them. Do I need that special paint? It's expensive, or is their something cheaper that works ok?
I was thinking about painting them. Do I need that special paint? It's expensive, or is their something cheaper that works ok?
Uhhh, CHANGING calipers requires disconnecting the brake lines... yeah, you'll have to bleed them..
if they're just stock calipers, changing each side is about a 10 minute job for me. no big deal. the longest part of things are pulling and mounting wheels.
if they're just stock calipers, changing each side is about a 10 minute job for me. no big deal. the longest part of things are pulling and mounting wheels.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 3,085
From: CT
Originally posted by Matt93SE
Uhhh, CHANGING calipers requires disconnecting the brake lines... yeah, you'll have to bleed them..
if they're just stock calipers, changing each side is about a 10 minute job for me. no big deal. the longest part of things are pulling and mounting wheels.
Uhhh, CHANGING calipers requires disconnecting the brake lines... yeah, you'll have to bleed them..
if they're just stock calipers, changing each side is about a 10 minute job for me. no big deal. the longest part of things are pulling and mounting wheels.
there's a bleeder screw on the caliper... you'll need a pice of clear hose and a jar to hold the old fluid (you can buy a kit with everything you'll need from any parts store for about $4.)..
suck out all the old fluid out of your master cylinder and fill with fresh fluid.. connect the bleeder hose to the caliper and open and reclose the bleeder screw.. (just so you know it'll open.).. I also suggest dabbing some thick grease on the threads to keep any air from getting sucked back in through the threads.
Now have one person pump the brake pedal 5-6 times, then hold it down the last time.. open the bleeder screw and let the fluid out until it stops flowing.. close the bleeder screw and repeat. you'll have to do this 10-15 times on the right rear caliper because the lines are so long. on the others, it'll take less time (10 on the left rear, 6-7 on the right front, 4-5 on the left front) just because of the length of tubing between each of them.
You'll know you're done when you see the new fluid come out the hose.. most likely the fluid you have in there will be dark brown or black if you've never changed it. new stuff will be a bright gold or blue color, depending on brand. (some brands make a blue and yellow, so it'll be obvious when you've got new fluid flushed through the system).
....
be sure to check the master cylinder fluid level several times.. (about every 5-6 "bleeds"), as you'll need to fill it up several times before you're done.
..
the order to bleed each caliper is:
right rear
left rear
right front
left front
.... When you're done, start the car (don't put in gear yet!) and press the brake pedal several times.. it'll probably go all the way tot the floor the first time or two, but should soon get back to normal height.. if it's firm on the first push, that's fine..
NOW put your car in gear and slowly roll forward or back and test the brakes.. if everything looks fine, go for an easy drive and check things out. don't just haul *** down the street and HOPE your brakes work at the end. I know three people from the board who were stupid enough to do that, and their cars are now in a junkyard. (of course they were stupid enough not to refill their master cylinder!)
it's long, but not difficult.
suck out all the old fluid out of your master cylinder and fill with fresh fluid.. connect the bleeder hose to the caliper and open and reclose the bleeder screw.. (just so you know it'll open.).. I also suggest dabbing some thick grease on the threads to keep any air from getting sucked back in through the threads.
Now have one person pump the brake pedal 5-6 times, then hold it down the last time.. open the bleeder screw and let the fluid out until it stops flowing.. close the bleeder screw and repeat. you'll have to do this 10-15 times on the right rear caliper because the lines are so long. on the others, it'll take less time (10 on the left rear, 6-7 on the right front, 4-5 on the left front) just because of the length of tubing between each of them.
You'll know you're done when you see the new fluid come out the hose.. most likely the fluid you have in there will be dark brown or black if you've never changed it. new stuff will be a bright gold or blue color, depending on brand. (some brands make a blue and yellow, so it'll be obvious when you've got new fluid flushed through the system).
....
be sure to check the master cylinder fluid level several times.. (about every 5-6 "bleeds"), as you'll need to fill it up several times before you're done.
..
the order to bleed each caliper is:
right rear
left rear
right front
left front
.... When you're done, start the car (don't put in gear yet!) and press the brake pedal several times.. it'll probably go all the way tot the floor the first time or two, but should soon get back to normal height.. if it's firm on the first push, that's fine..
NOW put your car in gear and slowly roll forward or back and test the brakes.. if everything looks fine, go for an easy drive and check things out. don't just haul *** down the street and HOPE your brakes work at the end. I know three people from the board who were stupid enough to do that, and their cars are now in a junkyard. (of course they were stupid enough not to refill their master cylinder!)
it's long, but not difficult.
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 606
From: Orlando, FL
go here: http://www.cybrrpartspro.com/Chilton...61CH09_13.HTML for exploded views of brake capliers
Originally posted by HoJo
Everything matt said, I would also suggest going to autozone, or something, and getting a Haynes manuel. They will go through how to take the calapers off and put them back on.
Everything matt said, I would also suggest going to autozone, or something, and getting a Haynes manuel. They will go through how to take the calapers off and put them back on.
They're not hard.. just pull the wheel off and grab a 17mm wrench and start turning.
What a pain, two people, refilling m/s fluid. sheesh! Hell I didn't even take my wheels off! muhahahhaha!
Originally posted by Matt93SE
there's a bleeder screw on the caliper... you'll need a pice of clear hose and a jar to hold the old fluid (you can buy a kit with everything you'll need from any parts store for about $4.)..
suck out all the old fluid out of your master cylinder and fill with fresh fluid.. connect the bleeder hose to the caliper and open and reclose the bleeder screw.. (just so you know it'll open.).. I also suggest dabbing some thick grease on the threads to keep any air from getting sucked back in through the threads.
Now have one person pump the brake pedal 5-6 times, then hold it down the last time.. open the bleeder screw and let the fluid out until it stops flowing.. close the bleeder screw and repeat. you'll have to do this 10-15 times on the right rear caliper because the lines are so long. on the others, it'll take less time (10 on the left rear, 6-7 on the right front, 4-5 on the left front) just because of the length of tubing between each of them.
You'll know you're done when you see the new fluid come out the hose.. most likely the fluid you have in there will be dark brown or black if you've never changed it. new stuff will be a bright gold or blue color, depending on brand. (some brands make a blue and yellow, so it'll be obvious when you've got new fluid flushed through the system).
....
be sure to check the master cylinder fluid level several times.. (about every 5-6 "bleeds"), as you'll need to fill it up several times before you're done.
..
the order to bleed each caliper is:
right rear
left rear
right front
left front
.... When you're done, start the car (don't put in gear yet!) and press the brake pedal several times.. it'll probably go all the way tot the floor the first time or two, but should soon get back to normal height.. if it's firm on the first push, that's fine..
NOW put your car in gear and slowly roll forward or back and test the brakes.. if everything looks fine, go for an easy drive and check things out. don't just haul *** down the street and HOPE your brakes work at the end. I know three people from the board who were stupid enough to do that, and their cars are now in a junkyard. (of course they were stupid enough not to refill their master cylinder!)
it's long, but not difficult.
there's a bleeder screw on the caliper... you'll need a pice of clear hose and a jar to hold the old fluid (you can buy a kit with everything you'll need from any parts store for about $4.)..
suck out all the old fluid out of your master cylinder and fill with fresh fluid.. connect the bleeder hose to the caliper and open and reclose the bleeder screw.. (just so you know it'll open.).. I also suggest dabbing some thick grease on the threads to keep any air from getting sucked back in through the threads.
Now have one person pump the brake pedal 5-6 times, then hold it down the last time.. open the bleeder screw and let the fluid out until it stops flowing.. close the bleeder screw and repeat. you'll have to do this 10-15 times on the right rear caliper because the lines are so long. on the others, it'll take less time (10 on the left rear, 6-7 on the right front, 4-5 on the left front) just because of the length of tubing between each of them.
You'll know you're done when you see the new fluid come out the hose.. most likely the fluid you have in there will be dark brown or black if you've never changed it. new stuff will be a bright gold or blue color, depending on brand. (some brands make a blue and yellow, so it'll be obvious when you've got new fluid flushed through the system).
....
be sure to check the master cylinder fluid level several times.. (about every 5-6 "bleeds"), as you'll need to fill it up several times before you're done.
..
the order to bleed each caliper is:
right rear
left rear
right front
left front
.... When you're done, start the car (don't put in gear yet!) and press the brake pedal several times.. it'll probably go all the way tot the floor the first time or two, but should soon get back to normal height.. if it's firm on the first push, that's fine..
NOW put your car in gear and slowly roll forward or back and test the brakes.. if everything looks fine, go for an easy drive and check things out. don't just haul *** down the street and HOPE your brakes work at the end. I know three people from the board who were stupid enough to do that, and their cars are now in a junkyard. (of course they were stupid enough not to refill their master cylinder!)
it's long, but not difficult.
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 114
From: N. of Toronto Canada
A one person way..?
When I bled the brakes there was no "helper" available. I basically used the method above but with a slight variation. It might sound absurd but after I pumped the pedal, I then used the power seat to wedge a board between the brake pedal and the seat, to keep the pedal depressed. Then I got out and I opened the bleed valve. Pain in the butt however, it worked just fine. Hope this helps the helperless guys out there!
Originally Posted by blackmax42
When I bled the brakes there was no "helper" available. I basically used the method above but with a slight variation. It might sound absurd but after I pumped the pedal, I then used the power seat to wedge a board between the brake pedal and the seat, to keep the pedal depressed. Then I got out and I opened the bleed valve. Pain in the butt however, it worked just fine. Hope this helps the helperless guys out there!
Uhhh, they sell 1-man bleeder kits for less than $10. Much easier and less ghetto than that.
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 114
From: N. of Toronto Canada
Very sorry to those I offended with my post. Just trying to help someone out there who like me, couldn't get a one-man bleeder kit beforehand, and was wondering how to keep the brake pedal depressed.
I noticed that the thread pages don't go beyond or to 10. So no one could know that this is an old thread. Give him a break.
Hey why is that "the way it is"?
Old threads wouldn't be revive if the informational thread can be archived and retrieved. Cmon, has about learned about database management? (no offense)
Hey why is that "the way it is"?
Old threads wouldn't be revive if the informational thread can be archived and retrieved. Cmon, has about learned about database management? (no offense)
Originally Posted by Darkwing48
I noticed that the thread pages don't go beyond or to 10. So no one could know that this is an old thread. Give him a break.
Hey why is that "the way it is"?
Hey why is that "the way it is"?
Ummm, before you can reply to a thread, you have to at least SEE it. which means the post dates are stamped all over it.
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
Ummm, before you can reply to a thread, you have to at least SEE it. which means the post dates are stamped all over it.
Oh I see. Thanks. Ok this is the last time I will respond to this thread.
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
.... When you're done, start the car (don't put in gear yet!) and press the brake pedal several times.. it'll probably go all the way tot the floor the first time or two, but should soon get back to normal height.. if it's firm on the first push, that's fine..
NOW put your car in gear and slowly roll forward or back and test the brakes.. if everything looks fine, go for an easy drive and check things out. don't just haul *** down the street and HOPE your brakes work at the end. I know three people from the board who were stupid enough to do that, and their cars are now in a junkyard. (of course they were stupid enough not to refill their master cylinder!)
it's long, but not difficult.
NOW put your car in gear and slowly roll forward or back and test the brakes.. if everything looks fine, go for an easy drive and check things out. don't just haul *** down the street and HOPE your brakes work at the end. I know three people from the board who were stupid enough to do that, and their cars are now in a junkyard. (of course they were stupid enough not to refill their master cylinder!)
it's long, but not difficult.
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