Are broken manifold studs a DIY job??
10-29-2000, 07:12 PM
#1
After my long trip from Seattle to Iowa City 3 months ago I have had rear broken manifold studs. Besides the embarassing hissing sound I also have a rattling sound coming from my Carsounf hi-flow cat. conv. I took the car to a muffler shop and they showed me where the rattling was coming from by hitting the cat. conv. and it seems there is something in there rattling around.
Anyways I have a week off for Thanksgiving and was wondering if I can fix/replace the boken manifold stud myself. I would like to take the whole exhaust system off in this process to see if I can get whatever is in my cat. conv. out also.
Has anyone fix broken studs themselves. Can you give me some tips such as how long, what is important, what instruments I will need, etc. Any pics would be appreciated too. Thanks. Sorry for the long message.
Anyways I have a week off for Thanksgiving and was wondering if I can fix/replace the boken manifold stud myself. I would like to take the whole exhaust system off in this process to see if I can get whatever is in my cat. conv. out also.
Has anyone fix broken studs themselves. Can you give me some tips such as how long, what is important, what instruments I will need, etc. Any pics would be appreciated too. Thanks. Sorry for the long message.
10-29-2000, 08:15 PM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 648
Well the same thing happend to mine. I took off the y-pipe and welded over the hole where my studs had broken. If you know how to weld at all then its not to hard. When I put it back on it hepled but I think that other places on the y-pipe are going bad now too. I'm gonna juat make a custom y-pipe or buy one. It will add power and fix your problem at the same time. If your loking for just a cheap fix than just reweld the stock one. It should take care of your problem.
10-30-2000, 08:04 AM
#3
Guest
Posts: n/a
Manifold Stud
I think the guy in the previous post is confused about what you are talking about...
You will want to be VERY careful removing the broken studs fromt your aluminum heads! There may be enough stud sticking out after you remove the exhaust manifold, where you can grab onto it with a vice grips and remove it. But if it is broken in the head, it will have to be drilled out. I have drilled studs out of the iron heads on my Vette, but I was too afraid I would go in at an angle and ruin the heads on my Maxima, so I paid my mechanic to tackle that job! I had cracks in the Ypipe at the the weld spots in the turn. My mechanic had the cracks welded while he had all that removed. No leaks, and sounds like a new car again. That was 4 years ago. Still sounds fine! Sometimes you have to bite the bullet and pay for piece of mind! If he would have ruined my heads, he would have been replacing them!
You will want to be VERY careful removing the broken studs fromt your aluminum heads! There may be enough stud sticking out after you remove the exhaust manifold, where you can grab onto it with a vice grips and remove it. But if it is broken in the head, it will have to be drilled out. I have drilled studs out of the iron heads on my Vette, but I was too afraid I would go in at an angle and ruin the heads on my Maxima, so I paid my mechanic to tackle that job! I had cracks in the Ypipe at the the weld spots in the turn. My mechanic had the cracks welded while he had all that removed. No leaks, and sounds like a new car again. That was 4 years ago. Still sounds fine! Sometimes you have to bite the bullet and pay for piece of mind! If he would have ruined my heads, he would have been replacing them!
10-30-2000, 10:46 AM
#4
Guest
Posts: n/a
Not for a DIY
Broken studs are a headache even for the skilled DIY. There is a danger to seriously damage an engine.
Also I've learn from the web:
1. Broken studs is a common problem for recent Nissan V6 engines.
2. ZX 300 studs are stronger and suits Maxima good.
3. To avoid the problem in the future one have to polish the manifold flange and the corresponding spot on the engine. Inspite I don't know how it works, I'm sure it works good. This info is from Russian Max enthusiasts' forum. The Russians are the great DIYs, and as far as know this problem have been discussed widely.
If anybody has any experience on the problem, please publish it somewhere here - it will be a great help for all 3Gen. Max owners.
Regards,
DDD
Also I've learn from the web:
1. Broken studs is a common problem for recent Nissan V6 engines.
2. ZX 300 studs are stronger and suits Maxima good.
3. To avoid the problem in the future one have to polish the manifold flange and the corresponding spot on the engine. Inspite I don't know how it works, I'm sure it works good. This info is from Russian Max enthusiasts' forum. The Russians are the great DIYs, and as far as know this problem have been discussed widely.
If anybody has any experience on the problem, please publish it somewhere here - it will be a great help for all 3Gen. Max owners.
Regards,
DDD
10-30-2000, 02:08 PM
#5
I just had a stud replaced about a month ago. The dude had to take off the oil filter to get to everything. I had him replace my timing belt at the same time too and he ended having to replace my a/c belt too. It all cost me about $200 parts and labor. I'd let someone else do it who has the tools and are liable if the f@#$k it up! If this is my cost for the belts and filter and labor (don't forget a new gasket!), then I'd spend $100 (probably less) and let someone else do it!
10-30-2000, 02:25 PM
#7
It wasn't done with any Auto Zone crap either! The oil filter may had been, but my oil needs changing anyway! He even showed me the old belt, it was starting to unravel, I was lucky I had it done when I did. I wanted it done before I started racing anyway. Thing is, now I need new joints on both sides!
10-30-2000, 02:29 PM
#8
Studs aren't a big problem, as long as you take your time and do it right.
They almost always break off inside the head- that's the worst part about it. 99% of them have to be drilled out.
If you have a drill and can remove your Y pipe without a problem, then you've got the brains to do the job..
when I drilled out my studs on the front, I removed all the old ones that I could with vice grips, then cut about 1/2" off one and drilled a hole straight through the center of the piece. I stuck that in the hole where the broken one was and used it as a guide to drill into the broken stud. worked veyr well and only took me an entire afternoon.
(that also included a 2 hr lunch break and lots fooling around with cleaning the throttle body and intake and other stuff like that.
They almost always break off inside the head- that's the worst part about it. 99% of them have to be drilled out.
If you have a drill and can remove your Y pipe without a problem, then you've got the brains to do the job..
when I drilled out my studs on the front, I removed all the old ones that I could with vice grips, then cut about 1/2" off one and drilled a hole straight through the center of the piece. I stuck that in the hole where the broken one was and used it as a guide to drill into the broken stud. worked veyr well and only took me an entire afternoon.
(that also included a 2 hr lunch break and lots fooling around with cleaning the throttle body and intake and other stuff like that.
10-30-2000, 02:34 PM
#9
Matt
I took apart my throttle body the other day to take a look see. I noticed that the driver's side was really dirty looking while the passenger side seemed clean. It seems easy to take it apart, clean it, replace gaskets, but, is there anything else that should be done while I'm in there? I'm going to clean it probably the first of next week and wanted to be prepared for when I get in there!
10-30-2000, 07:28 PM
#10
Guest
Posts: n/a
Two broken studs
Hi I am new to the site. While cleaning my engine I noticed two studs, the front one completly broken off and the one in the back (next to oil filter)loose. when I tried to tighten it, it was free. I talked to the dealer and they estimated $700 plus (I almost had a heartattack, the dealer had a grin on his face). I tried other local mechanics, some don't wanna tuch it, others charge the same amount. plus if they broke additional studs while fixing these two, then I have to pay more for head disassembly and all. Don't know what to do.
MSK
MSK
10-30-2000, 07:36 PM
#11
$700 is normal for fixing both sides..
they usually charge about $300/side for this stuff.
the reason the guy is grinning, is because it's ALL labor. the studs and gaskets are about $30 worth of parts, the rest is labor. they're making a killing on it.
you do need to get them fixed, but it can wait until you have money.. even if you just get one side at a time fixed, or do it yourself one weekend, it's better than leaving it there..
it's kinda like a broken corner light.. it's not really BAD to have it there, but it's certainly not good.
in extreme cases, it can cause the manifold to warp and you'll begin to lose power and fuel economy.
they usually charge about $300/side for this stuff.
the reason the guy is grinning, is because it's ALL labor. the studs and gaskets are about $30 worth of parts, the rest is labor. they're making a killing on it.
you do need to get them fixed, but it can wait until you have money.. even if you just get one side at a time fixed, or do it yourself one weekend, it's better than leaving it there..
it's kinda like a broken corner light.. it's not really BAD to have it there, but it's certainly not good.
in extreme cases, it can cause the manifold to warp and you'll begin to lose power and fuel economy.
10-30-2000, 08:15 PM
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Broken Manifold studs
Thanks Matt for your advice. That is a very good idea to get one side repaired at a time. I will just do that, besides the front side is not leaking at all. By the way, My Max is 1990 SE, pearl color, and everything stock. Very good condition. I had all four Bose speaker and radio (CD/Tape combo)went bad. This was an expensive repair. The salvage yard speakers do not work. I paid about $60 per amp. and $85 for deck repair. The deck is actually made by Clarion for Bose.
Thanks again.
MSK
Thanks again.
MSK
10-31-2000, 04:23 AM
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Why wait?
MSK, I am going to disagree with waiting to get it done. As the you drive it and the motor gets hot, cools off, gets hot, cools off, the manifolds will continue to warp with the change in temperature. If it gets bad enough, cool air will be able to enter into the head and possibly warp your hot valves. I know I am being extreme...but I believe in safe is better than sorry.
I do recommend NOT going to the dealer. They usually change a higher $$/hour labor rate. You need to find a Japanese car specialist. Establish a relationship with him now, because you will need him. I go to a Nissan/Honda specialist. He believes in taking care of cars, and sometimes will do work on my car that SHOULDN'T wait, and will carry my balance until I pay it off. He also will deal with my on the price of some work, if I can't afford it. The first time I had broken studs, he only replaced the broken ones. Two weeks later I had two more broken ones on the same manifold!!!! He admitted they should have just replaced ALL of the studs while they had the manifold off...so he only charged me for parts the second time, and replaced ALL of the studs!!! I think you shouldn't pay a mechanic any more than $35/hour for his labor. Some dealerships are charging $75/hour!
Hope you can get that job done!
I do recommend NOT going to the dealer. They usually change a higher $$/hour labor rate. You need to find a Japanese car specialist. Establish a relationship with him now, because you will need him. I go to a Nissan/Honda specialist. He believes in taking care of cars, and sometimes will do work on my car that SHOULDN'T wait, and will carry my balance until I pay it off. He also will deal with my on the price of some work, if I can't afford it. The first time I had broken studs, he only replaced the broken ones. Two weeks later I had two more broken ones on the same manifold!!!! He admitted they should have just replaced ALL of the studs while they had the manifold off...so he only charged me for parts the second time, and replaced ALL of the studs!!! I think you shouldn't pay a mechanic any more than $35/hour for his labor. Some dealerships are charging $75/hour!
Hope you can get that job done!
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