Window
Window
A couple of people and myself have found out that we have the same problem with the 1990 maxima. I dont know about you guys but my rear passenger side window clapms are broken making it so that the window does not go up/down w/ the switch. Right now, i have a board holding up the window from the inside until i have the money to get the parts to fix it. If you guys had the same problem tell me and also, if any of you know where to find good parts like this, message me back. thanks
You need a new window regulator,they are all over ebay,autozone sells them also for about $60,member internetautomart also sells window regulators.
pic of regulator:
http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...%3Den%26sa%3DG
Note: most new regulators sold come with a new motor.
pic of regulator:
http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...%3Den%26sa%3DG
Note: most new regulators sold come with a new motor.
I had the same problem, same window, but mine is a '93. In addition, I had a bad switch on the door too. I got my regulator from Autozone for about $70. It isn't terribly difficult to put in, though I did have to replace half the screws and such that hold the stuff together as the previous owner took it all apart, and then lost half the fasteners.
The driver's rear window regulator was broken on my car and after I took the door panel and assembly apart I found out that the screws holding the motor onto the regulator was completely frozen. No matter what I try, ex. screw extractor, wd-40, and drill attachment, it wouldn't unscew at all. So the final result was stripped screws. I just returned back to the dealer. Man, how do you guys take those screws off without stripping it? Why couldn't Nissan use bolts? Do all autozone's sell our regulators, for how much and how is the quality?
I've fixed two broken regulators in my rears. My first was salvageable by some manipulation, but the second I bought from InternetAutomart (above) for $40, best price I found (does not include motor). I received it in 3 days. It looks to be upgraded from our old OEM's with a metal bracket holding the mast/wire to the regulator, previously held by plastic.
MissingNaxiom, I'm not exactly sure where your problem is, but if the two bolts on the bottom of the window aren't there (like on mine) so that there's no way to attach the regulator ot the window, I just taped the new regulator onto the glass part. Seems ghetto but better than buying and replacing the glass which isn't broken.
MissingNaxiom, I'm not exactly sure where your problem is, but if the two bolts on the bottom of the window aren't there (like on mine) so that there's no way to attach the regulator ot the window, I just taped the new regulator onto the glass part. Seems ghetto but better than buying and replacing the glass which isn't broken.
don't wanna hijack too much but i figured that'd be better then making a new thread about the same thing.
my front pass. window doesn't go up all the time. it goes down every time consistently, then sometimes when i press the button to make it go up all i hear is a click from the switch. same with either master switch or door switch. on the second/third/fourth push of the switch it will usually go up, sometimes not all the way, sometimes i need to do that two or three times.
what can i do to diagnose my problem? is it the regulator?
my front pass. window doesn't go up all the time. it goes down every time consistently, then sometimes when i press the button to make it go up all i hear is a click from the switch. same with either master switch or door switch. on the second/third/fourth push of the switch it will usually go up, sometimes not all the way, sometimes i need to do that two or three times.
what can i do to diagnose my problem? is it the regulator?
Your problem is the plastic piece that holds the mast to the cable at that cylindrical metal piece (on the cable). See this pic.

This second pic is my quick fix. I wedged that plastic part back onto the cable, then I drilled a hole with a screw to hold it in place. It has worked since May.

This second pic is my quick fix. I wedged that plastic part back onto the cable, then I drilled a hole with a screw to hold it in place. It has worked since May.
The driver's rear window regulator was broken on my car and after I took the door panel and assembly apart I found out that the screws holding the motor onto the regulator was completely frozen. No matter what I try, ex. screw extractor, wd-40, and drill attachment, it wouldn't unscew at all. So the final result was stripped screws. I just returned back to the dealer. Man, how do you guys take those screws off without stripping it? Why couldn't Nissan use bolts? Do all autozone's sell our regulators, for how much and how is the quality?
I've done it about 6 times.
Your problem is the plastic piece that holds the mast to the cable at that cylindrical metal piece (on the cable). See this pic.

This second pic is my quick fix. I wedged that plastic part back onto the cable, then I drilled a hole with a screw to hold it in place. It has worked since May.


This second pic is my quick fix. I wedged that plastic part back onto the cable, then I drilled a hole with a screw to hold it in place. It has worked since May.

I had one screw on my old motor that didn't want to come out. I tried the hammer, the wd40, no go. I eventually managed to strip the screw. I then took a Dremel with a cutting wheel on it, and ground down two sides of the screw head to make flats. A pair of vice grips clamped to the flats did a fine job of removing the screw. A quick trip to the parts store secured a replacement screw.
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REDinLV
7th Generation Maxima (2009-2015)
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Aug 15, 2024 12:30 AM




