xx-Marshall-xx

iTrader: (15)

First Time doing this

Ok

Remember when my car broke down? Well Im finally going to fix it! ha (working a lot)
Its coming from the plate area, it was kinda greenish too.






I took the starter off and found this:





Im pretty sure its supposed to be a dry clutch system... What kind of liquid is this?! Either Input shaft seal, or Main shaft seal. I will know when I get it opened... but I kinda want a heads up.
* Is this normal wear and tear?... Looks like the starter is chewing the crap ot of my flywheel



Next is disassembling the gear selector rod.
Then Axel
Then dis mounting it? Should I get a friend to help me?

Maximahappy22

iTrader: (4)

That is not normal,

your flywheel is fine, but i would get it resurfaced.

and you will need a friend to take the tranny down and put it back up.

Maximan190

iTrader: (8)

IB-Matt-Says-It-Takes-Him-1-Hour-And-Can-Do-It-In-His-Sleep

Pulling the tranny in these cars is a pain in the a$$, theres different bolt sizes and all brackets all over the place.... not like pulling the T56, just the bellhousing bolts and one crossmember

xx-Marshall-xx

iTrader: (15)

Well, Im waiting on a friend... but hes not too excited... he never is


How am I supposed to take the Transmission Refill plug out... a 1/2in drive socket wrench? I dont want to strip it, but it fits "ok."



BTW, my slave cyl got Effed up. Took it apart and one of the seals busted (About a year old)
(I already got a new slave cyl, master cyl and a clutch fork)


The FSM also states I can put the jack under the oil pan... should I even try?
I dont have to take the crossmember down do I?

cheatham

1/2" socket wrench will work, it will clear easier with a 6" extension.

Yes, put a piece of 2x4 or 4x4 between the oilpan and jack. Crossmember doesn't need to be removed. (2 jack stands for the car and 2 hydraulic jacks to support the engine and tranny)

While it is better to have 2 people, the tranny comes down on a hydraulic jack pretty easily if it is balanced right. You definitely need 2 people to reinstall it, though.

mikekantor

iTrader: (5)

Looks like main seal oil getting sprayed around, might be wrong though since my experience is with the A/T, so I dont know what the M/T might be throwing around.

Did you drain coolant? Because unless you had a bunch of it spill, I'm not sure what the green could be from.

Cliff Clavin

iTrader: (11)

when MrGone and I put in my ACT, mine looked like that. Rear main seal was leaking and it was spinning oil all over in there.

We took the whole transmission out, cleaned everything reasonably well and put in the Fidanza and new clutch.

These are kind of a pain to work with. Be careful with the little hollow "guides." If you bend them, it is tough to get the transmission installed correctly. Don't ask how I know this.



fixed:

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

that *looks* like tranny fluid, but don't count on anything until you have the tranny out.

the tranny really isn't that big of a PITA. it's much easier than getting them out of a Sentra, altima, or 4/5 gen. I have pulled the tranny by myself in about 45 min, but expect a couple hours for your first time.

The flywheel itself looks fine. the 45* angle on the front is normal, although it has a touch of wear shown on it. the back edge is also normal there too. I wouldn't be worried.

just get the tranny out and see what it looks like.

xx-Marshall-xx

iTrader: (15)

Awesome, Thanks for the feedback. Im working A LOT.. and now its put off, pisses me off having 2 jobs. But... Im needing a freakin crescent, or a 36mm socket to get the damn Axle nut off it. lmao... Looted at my Lowes (My second job) for one... they dont have one .

Its just sittin in my driveway no front tires, lifted on jack stands with an oil catcher under it.

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

You might want to get a 36mm socket..

505max94se

iTrader: (15)

Good luck with a crescent.

mikekantor

iTrader: (5)

I found a 36mm 1/2" socket at NAPA, so try there.

Its not fun to get off though. I set the opposite wheel on the ground, sprayed some PB blaster on the nut, and attached a long 1/2" bar to it. From there I proceeded to jack up the end of the bar VERY SLOWLY while I took cover, little by little it started to turn.

Edit: I'm not responsible if something snaps off and pierces your jugular.

Maximahappy22

iTrader: (4)

you need a 36mm impact socket, and an impact gun...

It took my electric impact gun about a min of constant torquing to get that bastard off, thats like 270ft lbs... good luck w.o one!

505max94se

iTrader: (15)

Take a 2-3 foot long bar that's maybe 1/2" in diameter, wedge it in between 3 consecutive wheel studs, let the bar hit the ground (on the left side of the hub) at less than a 45 degree angle (in relation to the ground), take a 1/2 inch ratchet, a cheater bar, and a 36mm socket, then break it loose.....

To torque it down, use the same methed but reversed and then figure out how much you weigh. Lets say you weigh 200lbs and you want to torque it down to maybe 225 lb/ft. Measure 13.5" away from the center of the socket along the cheater bar and stand on the bar at that spot with one foot while the bar is somewhat level. Once the bolt stops moving you'll have roughly 225 lb/ft of torque on it.

nForce

iTrader: (5)

That looks kind of like my old tranny only I had 10 times that much fluid. This should help you alot..

xx-Marshall-xx

iTrader: (15)

I was gonna do this anyways

nForce

iTrader: (5)

WALMART IMPACT GUN

Then take it back

505max94se

iTrader: (15)

really? That's the easiest way that I can come up with. It sounds kind of complicated, but it's very easy.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

bah... I had mine out so many times, I finally painted the shoulder of each bolt a different color and marked the bellhousing to match.

505max94se

iTrader: (15)

no wonders you can do it so quickly

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

you learn a few tricks.

if it was a customer's car, I'd just number the bolts and bellhousing with a sharpie.

cheatham

If you don't want to buy a socket, Advance and AZ rent them (no charge if you return it.)

nForce

iTrader: (5)

Thats some hardcore dedication. Sounds like someone does frequent tranny drops

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

for 3 years, the car got more mileage on the road course than it did on the street. suffice it to say I did 2 or 3 clutches, 2 TO bearings, and 2 tranny rebuilds during that time.
finally I wised up and I've relegated the Max back to DD status and I'm driving the 240 at the track.

505max94se

iTrader: (15)

Smart man!

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

The maxima was faster on street tires than my 240 is on slicks.

xx-Marshall-xx

iTrader: (15)

yeah my pass axle nut is not coming off

1st attempt: standing on it... me = 170 my friend = 270
broke a 2 1/2 foot breaker bar




2nd attempt: diff breaker bar, and a 6ft pole. only bent the crap out of it... didnt want to break it



this thing is NOT moving, I hit it with a hammer and pb blaster... not loosening it... do I really have to remove the passenger side?

oh and BTW... I found a big enough crescent wrench

Alex_V

3L with top end > 2.4L with no top end?

Marshall- have you used PB blaster or any kind of torch yet? The first time I worked on my axles I had to use one or the other.

Best thing to do is go to harbor freight and get a cheap electric impact and it should come right off after its been soaked in PB blaster. I think they were $25-35 and it'll come in handy with tire changes and other stuff. Plus it'll keep you from destroying multiple tools.

~Alex

goon9

iTrader: (13)

I knew I should of took a pic yesterday the way I had the breaker bar rigged ....

Is that breaker bar 1/2 inch??? I just had an autozone 1/2 breaker bar and it held up.

xx-Marshall-xx

iTrader: (15)

yeah its a 1/2 in breaker bar... kind of a shallow socket though.. (FREAKIN $6!!!) Ive been soaking it in PB blaster for 3 days now and it still wont come OFF!!!!

Might get a torch, does it matter what type of gas?

goon9

iTrader: (13)

I wouldn't use ANY heat... Unless you have alot of experience with using heat to break parts, you might warp the hub.

Now that I think about it. The VERY first time I changed an axle on my max, I ended up needing to cut the nut off with a dremel. It worked, and the new axle came with a nut. That might save ya some time, that or get Real breaker bar, piece of pipe and a crow bar.

505max94se

iTrader: (15)

I could be wrong, but it looks like you were tightening the axle nut...

xx-Marshall-xx

iTrader: (15)

no... I was not tightening it... Im turning the passenger side lefty... which is... breaker bar handle is in front of the pass door while Im on top of it pushing down. It better be the right way... because my driver side came off with no trouble... but I look at it, and it had anti-seize on it... I guess my pass side doesnt. The BB was also flipped a couple of time so it could bend back

goon9

iTrader: (13)

Stronger tools and roids!

nubiannupe

iTrader: (9)

If you've soaked it with PB for 3 days and it STILL isn't budging, I'd seriously consider the prospect of cutting the nut off. Either that, or break out the Dremel or cut-off tool.

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

You need bigger/better tools chris..








I am available for mechanic work..

cheatham

Impact gun!

The first time I pulled my engine, I broke a SnapOn 1/2 breaker bar with the cheater pipe I used on it. At the time I had no air tools, so I just pulled the engine without removing the axle. I ended up ruining the axle's joints doing this. Considering the b/s I went through with this, I decided I needed an impact gun.

You asked if the passenger side axle had to be pulled. The answer is no. (Collateral damage is incurred at your own risk.)

xx-Marshall-xx

iTrader: (15)

I need an elliptical breaker bar... not a fully round one. I dont want to spend too much

goon9

iTrader: (13)

That nut is really owning you...

xx-Marshall-xx

iTrader: (15)

lol... Its owning breaker bars... not "moi"

I just get to my car when I can... Im a busy busy man. Im sure any one on this forum can relate