well guy juss got my car back from vocational fixing the c-arms and bushings
we had slush and ice in jersey so i wasnt driving fast and she seemed to be fine
fine at work also but i started her up to go to DD'Sand shes not starting
she cranking but no roll as if alternator belt is gone
well ive bought a new belt in past when it happen so idk why she has no power
and it also sound like either the alternator or a/c condenser is slowly coming to a stop
any ideas

 

Take your car to a mechanic..please...

 

yea ive been stalling on that but push is coming to shove
(also you sound like my grandmother) lol

 

You need to do basic trouble shooting. Check for fuel and spark and the engine is actually turning over.

To check spark pull all the plugs and put them in the wire/coil, ground them and check each for a spark. If one doesn't spark and it smells like gas, then the injector is working and its not getting spark.

Make sure you hear the fuel pump running.

WTF does "but no roll" mean? I didn't get anything other then the car will turn over but not run out of that post and Im not even sure of that.

~Alex

 

Now now Wayne, thats not the point of this board to tell someone to go to the mechanic.

 

It is when you cant even understand what the op said..

 

alex understood what i said and when i said roll i ment roll over on the engine

 

ok...so "roll over" means the engine will not "rotate"(turn over)????...Or will not "start"(vaaaroom)????

Help us out here..

 

ummm obviously start varoom varoom derh

 

Ok...From now on in future posts/threads...say the car will not START!!!

 

is your car a VE or VG? A shot in the dark here, but if everything else checks out fine, how long ago did you had your timing belt replaced? Same thing happens one of my friend's max, and the belt had actually slipped, causing the piston to slam into the valves, long story short, engine would crank, but will not run (as if no fuel is getting to the engine). He now have a new engine in his car.

 

This is a possibility,but as you said(if everything else checks out) he needs to do the simple fuel/spark checks before moving onto this area of diagnoses..

 

take the cap off the distributor and see if the rotor turns when you crank the motor. If it doesn't turn you likely have a bad timing belt, and will probably need a new motor.

 

you just had to tell him,didn't ya..

 

Hey, I did that and saved myself from buying a VG with a snapped timing belt that only needed a "fuel pump" cuz it just cranked real fast but got no "gas"

 

I remeber that one.
that's why I don't like VGs

 

Pfff oh behave, beside I dont mind spending 4-6 hours changing the timing belt, water pump, crank/cam seals, thermostat, and all drive belts every 60k miles, I consider it refreshing my mind or practice


Come to think of it, its probably cheaper than rebuilding VTCs and changing knock sensors





































AND DONT YOU COME AT ME SAYING VE IS FASTER THAN VG EVEN WITH BAD KS!!!!!!

 

not the VE/VG challenge again...john, come get your parts, and we will see which is faster

yeah, tigga....IMHO, if you don't know how to check for initial ignition/fuel delivery, you need to have someone else look at your car. We can only help you so much man.

you can kind of check your fuel pump's operation by turning the key to the ON position (not att) and listen for a sort of humm/buzz from the rear seat area.....

check the actual delivery of fuel by simply smelling for fuel while someone tries to crank the engine, or use the bleed valves on the fuel rail (somewhere, i can't remember where) to see if you have pressure (fuel squirts out)

check the spark as someone mentioned earlier by pulling one of the plug wires off of the spark plug, and holding it to your tongue like a 9volt battery while someone else tries to start the engine.....if there is a tingling sensation, then you're not getting enough spark.














by the way, don't kill youself by trying #3....just read the first set of posted instructions on checking spark earlier in the thread.

 

well after the last time i posted shes been starting up fine so im confused

 

can you elaborate on that? you mean you crank it, it won't start, and when you let go of the key you hear something still rotating for a second or two until it stops? you need to look on the belt-side of the engine while someone else tries to crank it to see what, if anything, may be making your mystery noise.

 

well guy alt belt snapped as i was driving
luckily i was in town and stopped to pep boys 150 for all new belts
also he said i need an engine anylisis so idk what he ment but that the update

 

My VE with a bad knock sensor is faster than your VG. ohnoes!

$150!? For new belts!? That guy is raping you, even if he did install them. I suggest you take it to a different mechanic before he runs an "engine analysis" unless it's free of charge.

 

150 is not so bad... if they have warranty on parts and labor. You got 3 belts, each about 15-25 bucks average 20, so thats 45 to 75 for three. Never mind tell em to go shove em where the light dont shine. Considering it takes about 1 hour.. and they're charging 125 ish for labor if my calculations are correct, you're better off doing em somewhere else

 

Free Fix!...

I just did a belt job on my cousins' VG and we paid $30 for all three belts...

 

Pff I never said it wasnt but dont get cocky with me Or I will destroy you with my reliable and gas saver almost identically torqued machine or and roomier engine bay

 

umm....what kind?

 

Advance Auto cheap kind.... I seriously doubt Pep-Boys is using anything better.

 

And transmission! Errr... Wait...



okay sorry... enough OT I suppose

 

don't need a VE to beat you, I'll race you tomorrow with my 94 and win

 

place and time

 

my alley, high noon.
I'll be out of the alley before you get it moved 10 ft

 

bunch a postwhores..