not to sound dumb or nothing but is the overdrive on?? and is there enough fluid in there and if there is enough fluid is it burnt, because if it is then youll just have to change it, im doing that now myself in my 2nd gen then when i finish ima get the car painted yay!

 

OD was on but i've also used OD off as well to the same effect, OD seems to give more power since I only have the 2 gears available to me to drive (prolly gonna burn up this tranny that way if I dont change it soon), the tranny fluid looks good and it doesnt smell burnt or discolored...

if this was directed at me (hope it was and I wasn't just responding dumbly)

Also, anyone know any other FWD Nissan Transmissions that would also fit on a VE30DE? or is it just the one?

 

the other 3rd gen auto bolts to the engine, however the starter is in hte wrong place(or something like that.)

 

down shifting to 1st will always cause a major slow down and if done going fast enough can hurt your trans...

 

I was just trying to confirm it was 2nd gear the tranny wasn't upshifting from and not 1st...

I'm gonna call my regular mechanic tomorrow and see if he rebuilds transmissions. for some reason I thought that if I went to an AAMCO like situation that it would be better then my typical mechanic situation. if he can't rebuild it, i'll start looking for transmissions in the area.

EDIT: Just found this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissa...spagenameZWDVW

anyone think it's legit?

 

Wrong transmission dude..

 

just my luck.

 

How the hell you find that? doesnt say maxima not even ONCE in that whole page

 

eh, looking for nissan transmissions in general, found out that the same transmissions from similiar year engine type Quests and i30s are the same... so we'll see.

 

i30, no its a vq engine, so it wont bolt right, quest, vg, so mebe.

(VE5 SWAP FTW!!!!!)

 

then you need a trans.

 

OK a little clarification
the VE motor in the 3rd gen took a transmission called an RE4F04V
the VG motor in the 3rd gen took a transmission called an RE4F02A
the VQ in the max from 95-01 uses a transmission called an RE4F04A
the VG in the quest uses a transmission called a RE4F04A
the A suffix means an open differential versus the V suffix which indicates the presence of a VLSD.
While the trans from a quest will bolt up to a VG engine I am not aware of anyone who has used it or even tried to. it may or may not have the mount in the same locations as the 3rd gen.
we do know that the VE A/T can not be used on the VG because of starter location issues.

 

much appreciated helps me out a lot in the longrun.

 

you need the WHOLE line.
the QUEST got the RE4F04A with it's VG
the MAXIMA got the RE4F02A when it was powered by the VG

transmissions ID #s are realted to the # of gears, whether it is FWD or RWD, Torque Capacity, and whether it had a limited slip differential or not.

 

mkay, if i had seen that, i would not have asked

 

I added it to the post

 

EZ Lube charges $99 for a tranny flush. Should I pay this or do it myself?

 

Do not have your transmission flushed...It will loosen up all the gunk and stuff that has attached itself to the casing over the years, then not all this gunk is not removed by the flush.so the gunk is now floating around in your transmission, where does it go? yep you guessed it right to your valve body, now you have a clogged valve body and a slipping transmission.

Just go pick up about 9 quarts of this...



Drain out the old fluid, only about 3 quarts will come out at a time, the rest is still in the torque converter and other lines/valves in the tranny. refill it with the correct amount of fluid, then go for good stop-n-go drive, repeat the drain/refill/drive about three times and you will have most of the old fluid replaced.

 

So after each round of stop-n-go's 3 more gallons of the old fluid should drain out?

 

Well, it will be the old fluid mixed with the newer fluid, but after 3 or 4 of these rounds you will have mostly new fluid..

And thats 3 QUARTS, not gallons.

 

Check Wiking's cardomain. It has instructions on how to do it. Search around for it. Site says it is deleted, but it is a lie, just use the set of numbers that works, and not the ones that don't. Sorry I don't have the link. If you are in the south NJ area, I have some Nissanmatic D if you want it.

 

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/24

 

That site is crap, dont go there

Anyways, for maximum swap I now use the 30$ 12V oilpump. Cleanest way to suck all old out from bottom reservoir via stick tube, then fill in new ... (Best way is to open first time the drain plug)

One Swap Process:
1. old out / new in ...
2. idling for fifteen seconds - will suck about 3 quarts = all new oil into the system.
3. Goto 1. = repeated, total is 3times.

While idling, do play through all gears so that all the various gear channels have a chance to get new oil flow through.

Result: Most oil has been swapped, while no danger to get air bubbles. Imperfect: used oil is being pumped onto new and gets mixed... in the reservoir

Remember later to check level when hot.

 

says the man who created it.

 

oops

edit oopsII: Now the CDomain geniuses have found out about fonts, sizes, color ... vow. Hope this time their whims last overnight and the kids wont change site settings and ruin all script addresses & page layout commands - as they have been soing 'every month' since 05....

Again, during editing the site gave umpeenth time the [SITE on SERVICE] -message, losing all painstakingly edited forms

 

CarDomain has now introduced html -format in secrecy. Only if this would last (never has before), then the page(s) could stay readable.

Check out. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/24

 

Write them all up in standard HTML as full pages and I'll email you an ftp login to host them at.

 

Can be done; the mess has to be organized for a purpose.