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What do you think about this Big Job

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Old 01-18-2008 | 11:29 AM
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What do you think about this Big Job

Hello! I have posted before the problems I been having with my beloved Maxima, so, short story: Engine has a pretty bad oil leak, no compression on one cylinder, problem with injectors, tranny slipping.

Even tough people suggest to get a new car and sell this one, I don't want to do it, because if I get another 3rd gen, new problems and I have not much machanic knowledge so I will never know how long it will last, more time customizing the way I like, (specially audio system), so I've decided to fix it, but here are the price quote mechanic give to me and I would like to see what do you think about it.

Imported Japanese engine with less than 50k: $750
Tranny: $650
Labor: $600 for both swap tranny & engine

there is 2k without including some small parts that might be convenient to change like gaskets, belts, hoses, oils, etc. which I believe it could be $200-300.

I've seen cheaper prices on ebay, but definitely nothing under 50k miles. What do you think? all opinions, advices, suggestions are welcome, Thanks!
Old 01-18-2008 | 11:39 AM
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junk yard!
engine: about $150
tranny: about $150
labor: same
just because its japanese doesn't mean poo.

note: listed parts are estimates, could be higher or lower.
my local pull-a-part is lower.
Old 01-18-2008 | 12:00 PM
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Don't you think if a car ends in the junkyard it's because engine or tranny had problems? besides if engine and tranny are good it will be hard to find low mileage ones in the junkyard, there's no point to do an engine swap with one that has 150k for instance, I don't know that what I think about choosing the junkyard path.
Old 01-18-2008 | 12:10 PM
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I'd say do it. Hopefully it has a warranty
Old 01-18-2008 | 01:05 PM
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Mechanic told me 90 days warranty on both Engine and tranny
Old 01-18-2008 | 01:15 PM
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buy a running a running rotted out car for $300 and then you will be able to confirm the mechanical condition and not worry about the BS of a warranty.
Old 01-18-2008 | 01:43 PM
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I'd say it all depends on the condition of the body. If you got the money and the body is worth it, it surely beats getting another used car to do maintenance work on or another car to make payments on.
Old 01-18-2008 | 03:37 PM
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Exactly my same thoughts BlooToof! I've put $ and time on the car, so I know what's good and what's bad now, and honestly interior is very clean and complete (will try to take some pics) exterior body is not perfect but is in great condition tough, no dents, paint is ok, just some swirls on trunk and hood and yellowing spot on rear bumper (damn yellow foam!) oh and my spoiler is broken but Already got a new one, just waiting to be installed.
I thought on a new car tough (Maxima of course) would really love a 6th gen , but payments and full coverage insurance will kill me.
Well Thanks!
Old 01-18-2008 | 07:07 PM
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Go local as recommended. I'll be clearer on the JDM is "poo" comment. I bought a JDM engine from Midwest Engines. It was crap, they refused to replace it, and I ended up spending almost $3k rebuilding it.

So, go to a local yard, have compression checked, and do all the maintanence stuff before installing (timing belt, water pump, thermostate, plugs, wires, etc).
Old 01-18-2008 | 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Chris Gregg
Go local as recommended. I'll be clearer on the JDM is "poo" comment. I bought a JDM engine from Midwest Engines. It was crap, they refused to replace it, and I ended up spending almost $3k rebuilding it.

So, go to a local yard, have compression checked, and do all the maintanence stuff before installing (timing belt, water pump, thermostate, plugs, wires, etc).
Why wouldn't they replace it?
Old 01-18-2008 | 07:24 PM
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lol, i did not mean jdm is poo, i just meant that JDM does not mean "better."
from my... er... research... (google browsing) japan spec is usually the same as us spec(just not US measurement, and the jap spec "sounds" better). keep in mind, i have not been able to base this on any factual info, like wikipedia. i have searched for that. it all seems to be user comparison, and such. as best that i can tell.
Old 01-18-2008 | 07:37 PM
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They argued that since the VG30ET is not "decisigned for a front real drive configuration" and that ultimately they had the option to replace or fix what seemed to be wrong (low compression, rust in coolant system, and water pump bad). They sent me a water pump (wrong one, was for a Pathfinder) and claimed they sent me new intake valves (they didn't). All I could do is file a complaint with the Better Business Bureau. They were completely unprofessional and were fully arguementive and sought to avoid upholding their "garantee" or "warranty."
Old 01-18-2008 | 08:40 PM
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IMO $2000 is a too much to plop into a 18 year old car, and end up not knowing if the engine and tranny will last or end up needing more repair.

Where is the oil leak? What opinions have you gotten on the compression issue, piston rings, head gasket?
Old 01-18-2008 | 10:47 PM
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If it were only the engine or transmission, I would probably say it would be worth it.

Replacing both the engine and tranny, plus all of the other stuff would really be a lot of money.

Plus, getting a used AT is still going to be a pretty big gamble and even rebuilds on the VG autos are dicey.

When you factor in all of the other stuff you should do when putting in the JDM engine (water pump, T-belt, manifold studs) you are going to be looking at more than $200-$300. I would say all of the stuff you are looking at would be more like $3k.

As reliable as most VG engines are, I would say just spend $1500 to $2000 on a VG with a manual trans (89-91 SE) and then use the other $1k to put on a timing belt and water pump and change all of the fluids.

If you aren't afraid of the VTC tick possibility, you could get a VE and the auto trannies are a lot more reliable. I know for $2k-$3k you can get a nice Maxima.
Old 01-18-2008 | 11:41 PM
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Mechanic has done CV axles before and some other minor jobs on my Maxima, so far he has done good work, he made a transmission rebuilt for my friend's 87 corolla about a year ago, that car still runs ok.

I let you know this so you know that I believe he'll be honest about the parts he would get for me, but still freaks me out the fact that after 90 days 2k go to trash, He told me is possible to buy an Engine locally for $400 but mileage would be much higher, also told me intake manifold and exahust manifold should be US because of the smog check.

All opinions seems divided, you guys make me think it twice before my next move, I really like my Maxima and don't mind spending the 2k but only if the car is gonna last for a few more years, but if gets to the same situation within 3-6 months it will dissapoint me all this effort to fix it.

I never took the car to a shop for a compression test, they want to charge $100 and I ask another mechanic to check and he told me one cylinder is dead no compression at all, This guy (mechanic that give me the quote posted) told me the same thing, also I have oil around two spark plugs (the two front right ones). So, after seeing all that I see a waste of money taking the car for more tests when I know engine is in pretty bad shape for sure.

Mechanic told me he'll be testing and checking everything before installing the Jap engine, he's buying it directly with some guys he know ( I don't know where) That import Jap Engines, but Trannys he said no longer imported, too old.

Well, I just update you guys with every single detail he give me and once again thank you for your time to share you opinion about this Big job that's driving me crazy
Old 01-19-2008 | 12:31 AM
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[QUOTE=rmdl51;6197786]Hello! I have posted before the problems I been having with my beloved Maxima, so, short story: Engine has a pretty bad oil leak, no compression on one cylinder, problem with injectors, tranny slipping.)

**(maybe your injector problem is the cause of the low compresion in the same?cylinder? iv seen a ve that had an injectors like "bottom cap missing"and the guy said it smoked and had low compression in one cylinder i guess that cap would get smashed in the intake valve after flying down the intake manifold and if it got stuck would leave the valve open
and read low or no compression

**engine and tranny would be less if local because(no $+h charge)**

Labor: $600 for both swap tranny & engine

**(once you are doing one the other is halfway done). so maybe thats a little high isnt there any local maxi-mechanics around?maybe craigslist even?(select one carefully on craigslist)**

Last edited by maximagician; 01-19-2008 at 12:39 AM.
Old 01-19-2008 | 01:06 AM
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I noticed nobody has taking care that Jap imports are under 50k miles, so that doesn't matter at all for your perception?
Price is $750 because of the low mileage (I guess) because he's around long beach port and engines that comes in those containers supposed to be cheaper shipping, well but I'm just guessing...
The problem with maxi-mechanics is there's nobody around soCA, I know last time mechanic last time charge about 20% higher than others, but I'm really looking someone I can trust, last time he charge $120 for replacing both CV axles, anywhere else was 90-100 and without references I don't like to walk into a cave without lamp.
Old 01-19-2008 | 01:28 AM
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The import engines that you hear about can be decent, you just have to find a reputable importer. Plus how do you know it isn't just a boneyard engine that has been steam cleaned and clear coated to look low milage? Always look for a warranty!!! If they can't or won't guarantee at least one year, walk away.

Don't be deceived by the purchase price. There is also shipping, which can be just as much as the part. Then there is the timing belt and water pump that are always a good idea to change at an engine swap. And then all of the unseen problems you WILL find when you dig into this project. A simple $2000 project can become a $6000 project really quick. And that is without labor.

I would agree that if you do not have the mechanical knowledge to be able to do this yourself....buy another car. You can get a very nice third gen Maxima for under $3000. Forget sentiment, it is just a car. Don't throw away money you will not get back.

I think many of us on the .org that have spent thousands on our third gens can tell you that if we couldn't do the work ourselves we wouldn't have done it.

Last edited by jonmandude; 01-19-2008 at 01:31 AM.
Old 01-19-2008 | 01:52 AM
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I've spent 6k+ on my car, 1500 was done by someone other than me aka transmission, exhaust studs, and first full tune up, w/p, timing belt, oil change, drive belts, t stat but now I do all that.

I'm still gonna say one more time. Make sure you source our the parts from a reputable person. If the car is worth spending the money, go for it as long as the trans/motor you're spending is worth spending.

No org members in CA that have engine/trans for sale?
Old 01-19-2008 | 05:47 AM
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don't get a jdm engine. its the same crap as our usdm vg. i paid $450 for my engine but i was able to start the car at my local yard and asked the guy why was the car junked and he said the tranny blew. the car had 105k miles on it back in march of '05. i replaced everything but head gaskets and bearings, simply because the engine ran like if it was new but replaced everything else before i swapped it in. i bought everything new thats in the engine bay. spent less than $1,000 for all the parts needed along with a new clutch kit for my tranny. i didn't finish my swap until august of '05 and now i currently have 127k miles on it and that thing is still running like a beast. btw, i did all the work myself thats why it was so cheap for me.
Old 01-19-2008 | 08:16 AM
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Doin all work yourself = ftw
No garage = ftl
Old 01-20-2008 | 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by rmdl51
I noticed nobody has taking care that Jap imports are under 50k miles, so that doesn't matter at all for your perception?
Price is $750 because of the low mileage (I guess) because he's around long beach port and engines that comes in those containers supposed to be cheaper shipping, well but I'm just guessing...
The problem with maxi-mechanics is there's nobody around soCA, I know last time mechanic last time charge about 20% higher than others, but I'm really looking someone I can trust, last time he charge $120 for replacing both CV axles, anywhere else was 90-100 and without references I don't like to walk into a cave without lamp.
I got a "JDM" transmission that was reported from the warehouse (Attarco) to have no more than 50K miles on it. I forget where I read this in the org, but its supposedly since driving personal vehicles is somewhat limited (b/c of subways and public transportation availability) cars don't get much mileage. I think Japanese emissions are quite strict and once they fail, it's pretty much useless to repair (or maybe gov't requires vehicle to be retired??), so people like Attarco purchase JDM parts to sell in U.S.

ANYWAY! to what I'm getting at....
Just because it's 50K or less miles on the engine/transmission won't mean it'll be "healthy". My transmission is kind flakey already, where it pops in and out of overdrive, or sometimes not even shift into OD unless I pop out of 'Drive' and into 'Neutral' and back into 'D' (some sort of reset I presume?)

Another possible suggestion...
if you're going to swap the transmission, why not do VE-5 swap?

*edit*
actually, I don't even know if you've a VE or VG.. but either case, VE-5?

*edit2*
you're also taking a gamble even with "salvaged" engine and transmission. It's my opinion that since you really can't "test" the engine/transmission, you won't really know what kind of shape it's in. The engine/transmission distributor may say they did some sort of work, but for $750/$600, I doubt too much work was done (ie. rebuilding). I think all they may have really done was drain it, clean it, and shine it up for you so that it "looks" newer or what not. Also, keep in mind the 3month warranty only covers the engine/transmission, not the labor to install/remove it, unless your mechanic is super-cool. So, i guess the point of this edit to to help you think things thoroughly before investing over $1K, where you could use that money to buy another 3Gen. There arer some pretty fit 3Gens in southern cali (just browsing the craigslist). Anyway, good luck!

*edit3*
Hey, I'm saving this thread from too many posts
Another thing is, if it's a VG engine you have, you may want to make sure those exhaust studs are ok and show no signs of loose-ness or cracks, breaking, etc. The maintenance on the engine/transmission whilst it's still outside of the car will be a little more economical. I'd say it's worth shovling out a bit more to attack the exhuast and maybe some transmission maintenance even though you might be strapped for cash. With regard to saving money, I think it'll be good in the long run too. Just think of any easy to do while out of the car maintenance to do on the engine/transmission. Another one that jumps out is timing chain and water pump (you can definitely do that yourself when it's outside of the car). With respects to an A/T, you could have a shop upgrade the valve body? Question marks are because I've heard that it's not necessarily good to do a VB upgrade on a possibly, already weak/worn/unhealthy tranmission... hopefully some other people can comment on this....? If they read this huge post! SOrry, I think I may have turned some good responses away due to this long post... which I'll end NOW!

Last edited by super32; 01-20-2008 at 09:33 PM. Reason: (1) VG or VE? iono... (2) more suggestion (3) pre-maintenance
Old 01-20-2008 | 06:17 PM
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I will say this, if you are going to do a VG to a VE-5 swap....you really, really need to buy a donor car. There are a lot more parts that do NOT swap than I was originally led to believe. (yes Greeny, you were right) (but, I think it will be worth it)
Old 01-20-2008 | 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike90SE
I will say this, if you are going to do a VG to a VE-5 swap....you really, really need to buy a donor car. There are a lot more parts that do NOT swap than I was originally led to believe. (yes Greeny, you were right) (but, I think it will be worth it)
heh ...I do respect your efforts though.. We all need to try and keep our old cars alive,and keep modding..

Otherwise this forum will look like the 1st/2nd gen forum..
Old 01-20-2008 | 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Greeny
heh ...I do respect your efforts though.. We all need to try and keep our old cars alive,and keep modding..
The swap is complete!

Sadly, I have not heard it run yet though.

I do not want to steal this thread, so I will wait to ask my question when I can start my own thread.
Old 01-21-2008 | 09:18 AM
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Hello! Thanks to all for your comments.

I have a 90SE which is a VG, I would be excited about the VE-5 swap, but I'm to lazy to drive a stick, besides It's been a while since I haven't drive one and I'll have to get used to it again :P.

What I keep thinking is the idea of a VE engine, but I don't know, I remember someone here on the forums told me it wasn't a direct fit and requires some mods, and honestly I don't know if mechanic would be able to do it.

So, maybe after reading all this I'll try to save some money and use the US engine for about $400, and I think he'll give me warranty on the Labor too, but I'll ask to be sure.

BTW! how about A/T from a VE? are they more reliable?

I got it now about what you said getting a donor car, it's because I'll need many parts from the VE not just the Engine and tranny right?

Last edited by rmdl51; 01-21-2008 at 10:54 AM. Reason: add info
Old 01-21-2008 | 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by rmdl51

BTW! how about A/T from a VE? are they more reliable?
yes they are, however you can't just bolt one to the VG and get going, they use a different starter because of the flywheel offset being different and you can't swap flywheels either
Old 01-21-2008 | 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by rmdl51
I got it now about what you said getting a donor car, it's because I'll need many parts from the VE not just the Engine and tranny right?
Yes, there were several things that were different from my 90SE-VG to the 93SE-VE. Most notibly is the wiring harness and ECU. Also, as I am finding out, there are some wiring differences too.
Old 01-21-2008 | 06:30 PM
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I'm in agreement with much of what has been said, but I offer another alternative: Do it yourself! Buy some cheap tools in kit form at Harbor Freight Tools, (www.HarborFreightusa.com), --there is one over in Ontario on Holt Blvd I believe--perhaps $200; buy an original FACTORY service manual from Faxom at 3901 Carter Ave., in Riverside, CA (800-458-2734). Figure $60-$80 for the manual. Just about any specialized tool you'll need, you can rent from Autozone and learn to do it yourself! Got any questions while under the hood? PM me-- I'll be happy to advise. Oh, and some jack stands. If you can turn a wrench, you'll be surprised how many thousands of dollars you'll save over your lifetime. Mechanics these days get what? $75-$85 PER HOUR? Besides, you can even make some side money at it, helping out your friends or neighbors once you get better at it! For the VG engine, there are only a handful of really "specialized" tools you'll need to do a simplified rebuild. Like dealing with the allen bolts that secure the intake manifold system, and a torque wrench, and a piston ring compressor... If you have an enclosed garage with a cement floor, so much the better. but if not, consider renting garage space from a friend or neighbor. There are lots of possibilities for a guy who is willing to try. Plus-- you've got all of us! Oh, and one last thing-- I designed a cheap, make-shift engine and transmission stand that you can fabricate out of scrap wood and sheet rock screws that will give you full access to the lower end of your engine and even balance properly while you pull your trani for a replacement or rebuild. Let me know if you're interested, I can scan and post a diagram. The AT should probably be done by a certified shop-- I know; I've looked in there! But just by pulling it and re-installing it yourself, you could save a bundle. Many trani shops will do the work even if they don't pull it. I know a guy locally, and they HATE pulling FWD transmissions! You might get a price break-- SHOP AROUND! I found one place on the net that will sell you a completely rebuilt trani on an exchange basis with a good warranty for about $1400 plus shipping by freight.

Last edited by Mack531; 01-21-2008 at 08:22 PM.
Old 01-22-2008 | 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by VEvolution
Doin all work yourself = ftw
No garage = ftl
exactly my situation.
Old 01-22-2008 | 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Darkwing48
exactly my situation.
Hey at least you guys dont get -20 degree weather like us! its nice enough to work outdoors as long as you're done before bedtime lol
Old 01-22-2008 | 11:44 AM
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True, which is exactly why I think rmdl51 should go for it. If you can't work on it, and you need it, pay the price, until you can DIY. I guess you need a space heater/fan combo for your garage, which is not hard to create with your knowledge in modding.
Old 01-22-2008 | 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by VEvolution
Doin all work yourself = ftw
No garage = ftl
Okay, here's my "noob" status showing... "ftw"? wazzat? "ftl"? 'n' wazZAT?
Old 01-22-2008 | 08:53 PM
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lol! i asked the same thing
ftl="for the loose"
ftw="for the win"
AAAANNNNDDDD!!!

iirc, it was with about the same number of posts
don't worry, i think of myself as a noob just as the vets do.
Old 01-22-2008 | 09:39 PM
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Ok Thanks to everybody for your great support and informative advices! I really appreciate them all.

I live on Apartments, so, no Garage unfortunately, friends may have garage but their wifey won't let them do a mess into the driveway (man! that's why I'm still single ) besides, none of my friends have mechanic knowledge, I would need to be hiring someone anyways, If I just have a little more experience I would probably take the chances and do it myself, I know I can count on you guys and I'm glad to hear that.

So, that being said, no garage, (BTW today is raining! ) no experience, no tools, I have to pay for this big job, it's really is a big job.

Thanks to all your advices/questions I ask the mechanic more stuff and I figure it out a few more things, he'll guarantee even the labor, if something happens within 90 days he's repairs will be free of charge, the $600 labor includes timing belt, water pump and some others, he says I only need to buy the ATF.

I also ask him how does he trust the importers from the JDM, and he said he has bought from them before and never had problems, if he have any problems he wouldn't be buying from them again, he had problems with some other importers but the ones he buy from right now they have been selling good stuff, I know you maybe could say well, that's what he says, maybe is his own business but I guess on previous repairs he has been honest with me and I'll give him a chance to prove he's honest.

It's a shame I don't have the chance to get a VE and do what you guys suggest, and well the car is really getting worse everytime, tranny is reving a lot and it won't engage so fast after a stop, so I better stop using my max, so I did, yesterday I start using my dad's 94 corolla, that little thing is faster than my max right now, so you can tell with that how bad is my baby.

Well, after all my baby will be gone all the weekend for the big surgery and I feel so nervous like she was really a baby , I just really hope it's worth every penny, but I'm still aware that this job (specially tranny) is like flipping a coin.

OMG! too long post , well, thanks again and I'll let you know how is my Max after all this!
Old 01-22-2008 | 10:47 PM
  #36  
ustfdes's Avatar
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FYI, JDM engines use forged internals, rather than cast, like USDM engines.....which is the MAIN reason people want JDM swaps.....forged parts > cast parts.

just research the source of the engine, and check the warranty/support and you should be in good shape.

and also, VG-Auto is doomed to fail anyways, so why not swap in a VE-5 Tranny with your VG engine?
Old 01-22-2008 | 10:56 PM
  #37  
ColombianMax's Avatar
Please. Call me John. I insist
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Originally Posted by ustfdes
FYI, JDM engines use forged internals, rather than cast, like USDM engines.....which is the MAIN reason people want JDM swaps.....forged parts > cast parts.

just research the source of the engine, and check the warranty/support and you should be in good shape.

and also, VG-Auto is doomed to fail anyways, so why not swap in a VE-5 Tranny with your VG engine?
ricer!
Old 01-22-2008 | 10:59 PM
  #38  
VEvolution's Avatar
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Joined: Apr 2005
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From: NY
Originally Posted by ustfdes
FYI, JDM engines use forged internals, rather than cast, like USDM engines.....which is the MAIN reason people want JDM swaps.....forged parts > cast parts.
Are you seriose? By JDM it means used where/what car again?

Last edited by VEvolution; 01-22-2008 at 11:01 PM.
Old 01-23-2008 | 01:02 AM
  #39  
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Please. Call me John. I insist
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Originally Posted by VEvolution
Are you seriose? By JDM it means used where/what car again?
JDM=Japanese Domestic Market used in Japan

USDM= US Domestic Market

EDM = European Domestic market

got it all from wikipedia so dont quote me!

Hey wait a minute...I thought the VE30DE was used only in the USDM 92-94 Maxima SE... how can it be JDM?
Old 01-23-2008 | 01:29 AM
  #40  
Mack531's Avatar
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From: Redding, California
[quote=rmdl51;6205427]Ok Thanks to everybody for your great support and informative advices! I really appreciate them all.

I live on Apartments, so, no Garage unfortunately, friends may have garage but their wifey won't let them do a mess into the driveway (man! that's why I'm still single ) besides, none of my friends have mechanic knowledge, I would need to be hiring someone anyways, If I just have a little more experience I would probably take the chances and do it myself, I know I can count on you guys and I'm glad to hear that.

So, that being said, no garage, (BTW today is raining! ) no experience, no tools, I have to pay for this big job, it's really is a big job.

Thanks to all your advices/questions I ask the mechanic more stuff and I figure it out a few more things, he'll guarantee even the labor, if something happens within 90 days he's repairs will be free of charge, the $600 labor includes timing belt, water pump and some others, he says I only need to buy the ATF.

I also ask him how does he trust the importers from the JDM, and he said he has bought from them before and never had problems, if he have any problems he wouldn't be buying from them again, he had problems with some other importers but the ones he buy from right now they have been selling good stuff, I know you maybe could say well, that's what he says, maybe is his own business but I guess on previous repairs he has been honest with me and I'll give him a chance to prove he's honest.


Well, after all my baby will be gone all the weekend for the big surgery and I feel so nervous like she was really a baby , I just really hope it's worth every penny, but I'm still aware that this job (specially tranny) is like flipping a coin.





No sweat man. Do what ya gotta do. I can vouch for the wife and the messy garage thing though. Been there! LOL. Maybe you can offer to clean up around the guy's shop and work off some of the bill. Never hurts to ask. You might even learn some things about workin' on cars that will come in handy down the road a piece. If he doesn't mind, you might offer to assist on the job and pick up some pointers in the process. Some mechanics appreciate enthusiasm in a young car nut. ASK!


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