Need advise on new struts for my 94 GXE
#1
Need advise on new struts for my 94 GXE
My 94 GXE has 110K miles on it and desperately needing new struts now. I have got a lot of great help here couple of months ago when I was learning to replace fuel injectors on it, so I am here again to get help with the struts selection. I have searched on eBay and basically saw KYB GR-2 for about $190 and TOKICO HP for $280. I don't need high performance set up, just need a stable and decent ride and handling, and hopefully I don't have to put new springs as well. So any suggestions about which one to go with? Or there are better options out there? Finally, how much should I expect to pay a shop to have them installed?
Thanks.
Thanks.
#3
if you have a drive way, and a weekend, you could do it yourself. not the most overly complicated surgrey, but it is a little time consuming. you will also needs strut boots.
5 nuts to take out of the car, compress spring, remove top nut. almost as simple as that, for the front.
havent done the back, yet.
5 nuts to take out of the car, compress spring, remove top nut. almost as simple as that, for the front.
havent done the back, yet.
#4
if you have a drive way, and a weekend, you could do it yourself. not the most overly complicated surgrey, but it is a little time consuming. you will also needs strut boots.
5 nuts to take out of the car, compress spring, remove top nut. almost as simple as that, for the front.
havent done the back, yet.
5 nuts to take out of the car, compress spring, remove top nut. almost as simple as that, for the front.
havent done the back, yet.
Its better to do it yourself than at a shop. You will pay big bucks, perhapts 500+ on parts and labor but with some crappy Gabriels or just some no name struts.
#5
if you have a drive way, and a weekend, you could do it yourself. not the most overly complicated surgrey, but it is a little time consuming. you will also needs strut boots.
5 nuts to take out of the car, compress spring, remove top nut. almost as simple as that, for the front.
havent done the back, yet.
5 nuts to take out of the car, compress spring, remove top nut. almost as simple as that, for the front.
havent done the back, yet.
![laugh](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/laugh.gif)
#6
how much more work is removal compared to disassembling to change the parallel link bushings, aside from the top nuts and brake lines?
and i do believe you in that its harder, just hadn't had the chance to, yet.
Edit: accidentally called em lca bushings
and i do believe you in that its harder, just hadn't had the chance to, yet.
Edit: accidentally called em lca bushings
![Embarrassment](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/redface.gif)
Last edited by BenStoked; 01-25-2008 at 07:24 PM.
#7
Well aside from the fact that you have to loosen the parallel links, you gotta remove the whole strut assembly, which means you gotta remove the rear seat and remove 3 14mm nuts on the strut mount. once the strut assembly has been removed from the vehicle, here comes the hard part IMO;
Removing the [gland?] nut which I've used a monkey/tube wrench with a 6 foot fence pipe and someone holding the strut assembly with another pipe to get the nut off.
You also have to be able to use the spring compressors (good functioning ones) properly or you can pull a greeny.
#9
I have replaced all the way around on my max and to be honest, other than more things to take apart and put back together, the rear springs were easier on mine than the fronts. On the fronts I had the damnedest time getting the springs compressed enough to get the struts out.
#10
I have replaced all the way around on my max and to be honest, other than more things to take apart and put back together, the rear springs were easier on mine than the fronts. On the fronts I had the damnedest time getting the springs compressed enough to get the struts out.
#11
#13
Thanks for all you guys, seems like I have to bite the bullet and pay for someone to do this. I don't have a weak mind, but from you guys' description, I am not so confident about my arm strength, LOL. This is not at all like putting the injectors in there for sure.
I called one garage and was quoted $100 per struts for installation. Is that about right?
I called one garage and was quoted $100 per struts for installation. Is that about right?
#14
Thanks for all you guys, seems like I have to bite the bullet and pay for someone to do this. I don't have a weak mind, but from you guys' description, I am not so confident about my arm strength, LOL. This is not at all like putting the injectors in there for sure.
I called one garage and was quoted $100 per struts for installation. Is that about right?
I called one garage and was quoted $100 per struts for installation. Is that about right?
For that price, is the shop supplying the struts and an alaignment too? If so, beware of the quality. I know, the first time mine were changed I was in a pinch for money and went the Gabrial way. Less than a year later, I had to do it again. Granted the struts were under warranty, but if I had paid a shop to do this I am sure the labor would not have been covered. And I can promise you that if they go bad again I will forget the pharkin warranty and get some good struts.
With that said, buy the struts you want, find an .org member close by, offer to buy them beer and food. You might be surprised how cheap you can get your struts replaced for.
![Cool](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/cool.gif)
![Big Grin](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
![laugh](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/laugh.gif)
#15
Dude, where are you located?
For that price, is the shop supplying the struts and an alaignment too? If so, beware of the quality. I know, the first time mine were changed I was in a pinch for money and went the Gabrial way. Less than a year later, I had to do it again. Granted the struts were under warranty, but if I had paid a shop to do this I am sure the labor would not have been covered. And I can promise you that if they go bad again I will forget the pharkin warranty and get some good struts.
With that said, buy the struts you want, find an .org member close by, offer to buy them beer and food. You might be surprised how cheap you can get your struts replaced for.![Cool](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/cool.gif)
![Big Grin](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
![laugh](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/laugh.gif)
For that price, is the shop supplying the struts and an alaignment too? If so, beware of the quality. I know, the first time mine were changed I was in a pinch for money and went the Gabrial way. Less than a year later, I had to do it again. Granted the struts were under warranty, but if I had paid a shop to do this I am sure the labor would not have been covered. And I can promise you that if they go bad again I will forget the pharkin warranty and get some good struts.
With that said, buy the struts you want, find an .org member close by, offer to buy them beer and food. You might be surprised how cheap you can get your struts replaced for.
![Cool](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/cool.gif)
![Big Grin](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
![laugh](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/laugh.gif)
![Big Grin](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
I am pretty new here, so I don't really know any members yet, but I wouldn't mind at all buying beers if ever there is a meet in my neck of the wood.
![laugh](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/laugh.gif)
#16
There are some detail parts you should check and replace when you change the struts. On my car, the rubber boots were torn so I got them from Courtesy Nissan. I changed the strut mounts also. I changed out all the small hardware like the locknuts as well.
When I did the front struts last month, it wasn't too difficult. Like the others said, you just need a good vice, spring compressors and some tools. On the fronts, it is a little hard to compress the springs.
What I did was use 4 spring compressors. I used 2 Sears Spring Compressors that I have to comperss it as far as it would go, then I supplemented with 2 more spring compressors (luckily, it was on sale at Harbor Freight Tools for $9.99) to get that little more compression.
I have a 1/2" drive ratchet with a 2 foot handle/bar, which gave me enough torque to compress the spring compressors.
When you tighten the spring compressors, the bolt head on the compressor will get closer and closer to the upper spring seat until you're fighting against it as your socket is rubbing against it on every turn.
That's when you get a combination wrench and you can continue to compress the springs as you have enough clearance to turn the spring compressor whithout fighting against the upper spring seat.
I am not big strong guy by any means. What I found is that if you have the right tools, this job isn't that hard, doesn't take any more muscle than a normal person would have and doesn't take that long. I did not use any power tools either.
This is the 2nd strut job I did. The first time was on my 1988 Toyota camry. That 1st time sucked because I didn't know what I was up against and didn't have all the right tools.
I installed KYB GR2s on my car (did so my Camry as well). They are good quality struts with good ride quality. This is my daily driver I use for commuting 30 miles everyday and exactly what I wanted.
If you want something sportier, I would go with Tokicos.
When I did the front struts last month, it wasn't too difficult. Like the others said, you just need a good vice, spring compressors and some tools. On the fronts, it is a little hard to compress the springs.
What I did was use 4 spring compressors. I used 2 Sears Spring Compressors that I have to comperss it as far as it would go, then I supplemented with 2 more spring compressors (luckily, it was on sale at Harbor Freight Tools for $9.99) to get that little more compression.
I have a 1/2" drive ratchet with a 2 foot handle/bar, which gave me enough torque to compress the spring compressors.
When you tighten the spring compressors, the bolt head on the compressor will get closer and closer to the upper spring seat until you're fighting against it as your socket is rubbing against it on every turn.
That's when you get a combination wrench and you can continue to compress the springs as you have enough clearance to turn the spring compressor whithout fighting against the upper spring seat.
I am not big strong guy by any means. What I found is that if you have the right tools, this job isn't that hard, doesn't take any more muscle than a normal person would have and doesn't take that long. I did not use any power tools either.
This is the 2nd strut job I did. The first time was on my 1988 Toyota camry. That 1st time sucked because I didn't know what I was up against and didn't have all the right tools.
I installed KYB GR2s on my car (did so my Camry as well). They are good quality struts with good ride quality. This is my daily driver I use for commuting 30 miles everyday and exactly what I wanted.
If you want something sportier, I would go with Tokicos.
#17
Thanks for all you guys, seems like I have to bite the bullet and pay for someone to do this. I don't have a weak mind, but from you guys' description, I am not so confident about my arm strength, LOL. This is not at all like putting the injectors in there for sure.
I called one garage and was quoted $100 per struts for installation. Is that about right?
I called one garage and was quoted $100 per struts for installation. Is that about right?
#18
The fronts are much easier to do really, though it is harder to compress the springs.
For the rears, a vice is nice- but after you get the spring off bolting the unit to a wheel and laying it face down works well. Put a blanket down not to scratch the wheels and a pan down to catch the oil. Have someone stand on the tire while you bust the nut.
![Big Grin](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Parts: replace the boots! KYB is using something other than the regular rubber that they used before, but I wonder if it won't last longer. There are other sources. Think about replacing the strut mounts... the originals might last, but it'll suck if they don't- fix it again. (someone else tell him if he's OK) But the mounts DO add to the $$. Look on TireRack for an idea of price. Think about getting camber bolts for the front. (anyone else think so?) The camber might be "within spec" when you get the alignment done, but the bolts will allow them to get it exact.
"Borrow" spring compressor set from AutoZone or Advance or wherever. You can then at least do the fronts if you have a 1/2" drive set or a long-handle 3/8' drive with the right sockets.
I am not familiar with how the other brands ride, but the Tokicos' ride (on both the GXE and SE) is spot-on unless you get heavy into other suspension mods.
Any questions left?
#20
airbag suspension aka Nissan Sonar Suspension?
I've done all 4 struts and the front are CAKE compared to the rear. I guess someone had trouble with a bad spring compressor...mmmmm cake...
Rears arent too bad though
I've done all 4 struts and the front are CAKE compared to the rear. I guess someone had trouble with a bad spring compressor...mmmmm cake...
Rears arent too bad though
#23
#25
If so,then no,you don not need to take this nut off the replace the struts.
#27
But in all reality,if the struts are original,they most definitely need to be replaced..
![Smilie](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#28
#33
Ok...before we go any further,do you actually have a 3rd gen yet,or are you just shooting for answers to possible scenarios for a future car?(I've seen several posts in the classifieds by you trying to buy a 3rd gen)?????
#34
![Big Grin](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
I apologize if it seems like I am being a pest in this way.
#35
#38
Mind you this is all my opinion, I think airbags should only be used on trucks as a suplimentary suspention upgrade for heavy loads.
#39
Whatever - !not! LIP ... the only choice here, between 1000$ originals, four yrs ago.
Now after 20k miles the right one was shot
- no warranty thks to www.sapmotors.com.
After complainin 2004 to EU cartel comission, the sales is now semi-free so I did get pair of decent Sachs struts from Gerrymany 2x106€. The only thing I am really missing is the adjustable lower (oval) hole which would allow caster angle adj (wheels top tilted inwards)
The swap is relatively easy with proper tools. First timer may spend 2hrs per wheel... normally under 30min. HowTo http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/25
Ther rear 'Gland Packing' needs man sized 'pliers'
Now after 20k miles the right one was shot
![Frown](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
After complainin 2004 to EU cartel comission, the sales is now semi-free so I did get pair of decent Sachs struts from Gerrymany 2x106€. The only thing I am really missing is the adjustable lower (oval) hole which would allow caster angle adj (wheels top tilted inwards)
The swap is relatively easy with proper tools. First timer may spend 2hrs per wheel... normally under 30min. HowTo http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/25
Ther rear 'Gland Packing' needs man sized 'pliers'
![](http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/4/web/748000-748999/748507_569.jpg)
#40
Whatever - !not! LIP ... the only choice here, between 1000$ originals, four yrs ago.
Now after 20k miles the right one was shot
- no warranty thks to www. sapmotors. com. <snip>
Now after 20k miles the right one was shot
![Frown](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
tarun900
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
19
12-20-2021 06:57 PM
maxima-junky
4th Generation Classifieds (1995-1999)
1
10-07-2015 06:13 PM