1992maximase30

tell me what you think.

went over johns house he hooked the compression tester (weird looking)
did all six 1-5 has about 150psi.

and #6 has a woping 50psi.

added a lil oil as the fsm stated to do.
nothing changed so now it's a valvetrain thing.

john talked to another person and he said it's possible a bent valve or eccessive carbon build up.

could it be possible that a valve is bent??

Wiking

When valve is not closed --->cyl pressure leaks...

Either the valve is burned or it doesnt close. If valve stem is bent, closing will be problematic. On mechanically adjustable valves also adjustment could help... but not in 3gen maxima with hydr adjustable valves.

This means taking the head out, machining all valves -or- finding a known good spare...

A misfire caused by a leaking valve is typically constant. When adjustment might help, this varies with engine temp eg. driving conditions (=gap 'lives').

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

bent valve only occurs when the valve hits the piston.
you may have a BURNT valve, which can happen when there is an exhaust manifold leak.
pull the valve cover and check the easy to see stuff like valve springs and hope that it's just a spring that collapsed.

NismoChi

iTrader: (4)

Don't forget the rings, too. Like Brian said, bent valve is not likely if the valve did not hit the piston like if the Tb broke, which you don't have. Is #6 the one in the back, if it is, you are going to take the plenum off to access the valve cover, you might as well take the lower intake off to take a better look at the intake valves yourself.


In the second pics, i spray in some crab cleaner to clean it. Good idea or not, i don't know?

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

the oil in the cylinder precluded it being the rings. if it was the rings the oil in the cylinder would haqve given him compression

NismoChi

iTrader: (4)

of course, what was i thinking?

mikekantor

iTrader: (5)

Does it maintain 50psi, or leak to a lower pressure?

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

you typed faster than you thought.
I do it all the time.

Wiking

To get the compiled soot out is good. The wise men [count me out] say soot may suck fuel like a swamp causing irregular fuel delivery at least in startup.

1992maximase30

thanks for all the input.
the 50psi thats @ cranking so you can imagine what the psi is when idle then 2k and up.

#6 is in the front and to look at the valves i would still have to remove the intake.
iirc the intake had some build up too.
so we claned it out it did'nt occur to me to look at the valves becuase john and a few others were so hell bent on the engine is fine.

brian you could be right here's why.

at idle when cold you take off you can hear that cylinder trying to burn (like a hiss sound)under 2k but above it seems to go away.

one time i had my sister behind the wheel and had her rev the car 2k, 3k, 4k so on...
1500rpms it made kinda like a putt putt/chug chug sound.

2k/3k thats when that piston seems to fire.
also another one is when 1-5 injector was fine but when you rev her up; you can feel the missfire throughout the rpm range.

and it turned out #6 injector was bad replaced it; it's fine. also while the engine is at idle you remove the injector harness the idle gets a lil bit rougher.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

I thought the front valve cover can come off without pulling the intake on the VE. but it's been over a year since I had one so I can't remember.

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

Correct.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

guess I'm not completely senile yet.

1992maximase30

one member thought that the ve #6 piston is in the rear but it's in the front.
i took it off before to see and everything was fine.

but i guess it does'nt hurt to look...

1992maximase30

i took it off and everthing seemed fine.
oh as for the noise it's not a hiss noise it's more like a light tap/click noise.

on another note i installed my iac assembly (reused the old gasket) she does'nt shut off when you go into gear or when your parking.

but while in motion and the rpms are under 1000 the rpms will bounce between 1k-500rpms.
i tried adjusting the idle but no good.

also while in park it idles all stupidly too....

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

how is your coolant temp sensor?

1992maximase30

fine i replaced that a few weeks ago

subs1000w

were the terminals corroded and if so did you clean the terminals and add alittle dielectric grease

do your fans run all the time no matter if the engine is cold or hot

1992maximase30

well they ran all the time when hot.
thats because i had a bad t-stat(she whould only overheat when the outside temp is 40+).
now they rarely come on.
the harness is fine.

do yall think it was because i reused the iac gasket??

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

Possibly, did the original gasket come off in one piece(i.e. not broken)?

Did you use any kind of gasket maker goop on the old gasket before you reinstalled the iac?

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

spray some carb cleaner around the gasket ad see if the idle changes. if it does, then you need a new gasket. if not then

xx-Marshall-xx

iTrader: (15)

FOR: NismoChi

I think its the front right

Rear
Left----Right
----1-3-5
----2-4-6
Front

right?

I used RTV (Black)

mikekantor

iTrader: (5)

Confirmed, although the front is actually the pulley side, while the rear is the tranny side.

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Any smoke? Could be a cracked piston ring. Even with oil, it might not raise the compression

1992maximase30

ok i used some rtv gasket maker so she's fine (thanks again john).
why the idle was all screwy i did my lil' test.

pulling a coil each cylinder.

#6 (the supposedly bad one) went down a lil bit.
5,4,3,2 was fine.

#1 now seems to be the problem.
i would remove the harness no change in the idle then plug it back in the engine would rev idle fine then start all crappy again.

so i'ma chack that coil out or swap em and see's what happens.

no smoke from the tail pipe. no oil useage.
now she idles fine.
even with a load and i mean a load.

i might have to adjust it back in a lil bit.
but man this baby has some pretty good lowend and i'm pretty sure once i fix #1 she'll be even better.

1992maximase30

i checked the injectores in the rear 2 of em are 11ohm while one is at 12 ohm.
i guess i fixed #1 by accident.
cause now it's fine.

i somewhat cleaned the vtc solenoids i'ma finish cleaning them tomarrow (which explains the vtc clatter when warm; not cold)

ride is more responsive, smoother, makes me more determained to keep her and fix her....

Alex_V

alot of the problem could be corrosion at the connector, did you see if there was any green buildup on the connector?

~Alex