Throw out bearing installation
03-03-2008, 05:23 PM
#1
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 356
Throw out bearing installation
Is it possible to install the throw out bearing on a 5spd wrong? If so what is the correct way to install along with the retaining clip.
I think I might have installed it wrong with the clip. that may the reason I'm hearing a rubbing sound when I'm driving.
I think I might have installed it wrong with the clip. that may the reason I'm hearing a rubbing sound when I'm driving.
03-03-2008, 06:04 PM
#3
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 356
I used the one that came with the Exedy clutch. I'm trying to troubleshoot...
1. There is gear oil in the trans.
2. It shifts through the gears fine.
For example when I'm in gear and take my foot off of the gas to let the car coast. I hear the rubbing noise. It stops when the car stops.
1. There is gear oil in the trans.
2. It shifts through the gears fine.
For example when I'm in gear and take my foot off of the gas to let the car coast. I hear the rubbing noise. It stops when the car stops.
03-03-2008, 06:10 PM
#4
Usually TOBs are marked which side goes towards the cluth plate. It MAY be possible to install it backwards, but it would be pretty hard to do. If you did install it backwards you wouldn't be complaning about noise, you be complaing about not be able to shift. What it sounds more like is that you didn't lubricate the TOB properly before installation.
03-03-2008, 08:21 PM
#6
Just monitor the noise and if it starts getting louder quickly then you have another problem altogether.
03-03-2008, 09:34 PM
#7
it's possible to install it in the 6 o clock position... rather than the 12 o clock position, so to speak. if you do it wrong it won't swivel properly. Even if the bearing is facing the PP, it's possible to 'clock' it wrong, so to speak.
03-04-2008, 05:51 AM
#8
if the noise stops when the car stops, then it's got nothing to do with the TO bearing. the TO bearing spins at the same speed as the engine.
it's on the output side of the transmission.
check the dust shields on your brakes- often they get bent a little bit and will rub on the brake rotor and make noise.
it's on the output side of the transmission.
check the dust shields on your brakes- often they get bent a little bit and will rub on the brake rotor and make noise.
03-04-2008, 10:51 PM
#10
well the TOB spins at engine rpm. whether you push the clutch going 130mph and are idling, or have the engine bouncing off the rev limiter at a stop light... the TOB spins with the engine, not the wheels. So if the sound is speed related, it's somewhere from the final drive, differential, axles, or outward (wheel bearings, brakes.. something out that way). I have a speed-related sound i'm trying to find, and I'm thinking that it's the diff bearings screaming at me for not switching the carrier bracket for the pass side axle...
03-05-2008, 06:02 AM
#11
it could also be a broken input shaft or mainshaft gear.
is the sound speed & gear related, or just speed related?
i.e. I broke a couple teef on my 1st gear a year or so ago. it made some noise in all gears, but was worst in 1st gear. but it was speed related since the guts of the tranny only turn when the car is moving. (or in neutral)..
if it follows the engine RPM but still only happens while you're moving, look on the input shaft.
If it follows vehicle speed only, then look at the mainshaft, differential, or output shafts (axles).
If it follows engine speed only and doesn't matter whether you're moving or not, look at clutch assembly and engine.
is the sound speed & gear related, or just speed related?
i.e. I broke a couple teef on my 1st gear a year or so ago. it made some noise in all gears, but was worst in 1st gear. but it was speed related since the guts of the tranny only turn when the car is moving. (or in neutral)..
if it follows the engine RPM but still only happens while you're moving, look on the input shaft.
If it follows vehicle speed only, then look at the mainshaft, differential, or output shafts (axles).
If it follows engine speed only and doesn't matter whether you're moving or not, look at clutch assembly and engine.
03-05-2008, 06:40 AM
#12
well the TOB spins at engine rpm. whether you push the clutch going 130mph and are idling, or have the engine bouncing off the rev limiter at a stop light... the TOB spins with the engine, not the wheels. So if the sound is speed related, it's somewhere from the final drive, differential, axles, or outward (wheel bearings, brakes.. something out that way). I have a speed-related sound i'm trying to find, and I'm thinking that it's the diff bearings screaming at me for not switching the carrier bracket for the pass side axle...
When the clutch pedal is pressed in the TOB presses again the pressure release mechanism of the pressure plate. At this point the TOB IS at engine speed since the pressure plate is BOLTED to the engine. This is where the TOB gets the BEARING part of it's name. As it's the BEARING surface riding against the pressure release mechanism of the pressure plate. Pressing the clutch pedal loads the pressure plate which de-clamps the clutch plate and allows you to change gears. This is why when you get a HiPo clutch pack with more clamping force it's usually harder to press the clutch pedal in.
Normally TOB noise happens when you have your foot OFF the clutch peddle as the bearing is unloaded at this point. It usually goes away when the peddle is depressed.
03-05-2008, 06:54 AM
#13
A bad tob will make noise when the pedal is depressed.
Last edited by Greeny; 03-05-2008 at 06:57 AM.
03-05-2008, 06:59 AM
#14
The TOB is neither Engine or Output at all times. In the normally released position it should not be spinning much at all. It is riding on the input shaft of the transmission, but not splined to it in anyway. It does tend to spin, but not at engine speed since it's a flat inner surface of the TOB riding against the flat surface of the input shaft (and normally lubricated to promote slippage).
Try again. the TOB never touches the input shaft. It rides against a sleeve machined over the input shaft that's part of the bellhousing. the inner portion of it never touches any moving part- just slides on that sleeve.
A bad TOB can make noise in any position, depending on what's wrong with it. if the bearing part is bad, I've heard them crunch and munch while pressed in. if it's a broken ear or the case is coming apart, it'll make noise in both positions. if they've completely failed and fallen apart in several pieces, they'll rattle and dance on the input shaft while the pedal is up.
03-05-2008, 11:41 AM
#15
The TOB is neither Engine or Output at all times. In the normally released position it should not be spinning much at all. It is riding on the input shaft of the transmission, but not splined to it in anyway. It does tend to spin, but not at engine speed since it's a flat inner surface of the TOB riding against the flat surface of the input shaft (and normally lubricated to promote slippage).
When the clutch pedal is pressed in the TOB presses again the pressure release mechanism of the pressure plate. At this point the TOB IS at engine speed since the pressure plate is BOLTED to the engine. This is where the TOB gets the BEARING part of it's name. As it's the BEARING surface riding against the pressure release mechanism of the pressure plate. Pressing the clutch pedal loads the pressure plate which de-clamps the clutch plate and allows you to change gears. This is why when you get a HiPo clutch pack with more clamping force it's usually harder to press the clutch pedal in.
Normally TOB noise happens when you have your foot OFF the clutch peddle as the bearing is unloaded at this point. It usually goes away when the peddle is depressed.
When the clutch pedal is pressed in the TOB presses again the pressure release mechanism of the pressure plate. At this point the TOB IS at engine speed since the pressure plate is BOLTED to the engine. This is where the TOB gets the BEARING part of it's name. As it's the BEARING surface riding against the pressure release mechanism of the pressure plate. Pressing the clutch pedal loads the pressure plate which de-clamps the clutch plate and allows you to change gears. This is why when you get a HiPo clutch pack with more clamping force it's usually harder to press the clutch pedal in.
Normally TOB noise happens when you have your foot OFF the clutch peddle as the bearing is unloaded at this point. It usually goes away when the peddle is depressed.
03-05-2008, 12:11 PM
#16
Yep, the slave cylinder and the TOB are one piece, mounted inside the bell housing. Good ole Ford engineering at it's best!
03-09-2008, 08:15 PM
#20
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 356
Thanks guys for all your input. I've been driving the car around especially on the highway to take notes on the noise. When I drive past 70mph the noise is slight. Anything below that I hear it. In gear while coasting the noise is louder, in neutral, its gone.
So I think the problem has to be with the gears, an internal problem not the TOB. The only way to tell now is to take it to a shop. The question is, if the trans needs rebuilding is it worth doing or get an aftermarket trans that is already rebuilt and have it installed.
So I think the problem has to be with the gears, an internal problem not the TOB. The only way to tell now is to take it to a shop. The question is, if the trans needs rebuilding is it worth doing or get an aftermarket trans that is already rebuilt and have it installed.
03-09-2008, 08:31 PM
#21
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,371
id proboly be cheaper to have the trans rebiult or just replace whats wrong the parts are probobly less than $100 but the labor will be pretty high but that way if they rebiuld it and its still messed up you just take it back where as if you buy a rebiult one off the internet and have it installed and its bad its alot harder to get another one
03-09-2008, 08:34 PM
#22
id proboly be cheaper to have the trans rebiult or just replace whats wrong the parts are probobly less than $100 but the labor will be pretty high but that way if they rebiuld it and its still messed up you just take it back where as if you buy a rebiult one off the internet and have it installed and its bad its alot harder to get another one
may be more expensive than an internet-bought rebuild (and who's to say its actually rebuilt...) but worth it in the end.
03-09-2008, 09:34 PM
#24
) yeah my friend's 01 elantra suffered engine failure at 85k miles. i told him to buy a 3rd gen but he wouldn't listen. now he has an **** Probe. that apparently it's my job to keep running. meanwhile i have to keep my car running too.also that noise is kinda how mine is but not really. mine's loudest in 1st and 2nd, some in 3rd, but there's always a little bit of noise but by the time you're fast enough for 4th gear road noise overpowers it.
03-10-2008, 06:22 AM
#25
the newer hyundais are miles ahead of the 01s in terms of build quality.
any which way back on topic (sorta).
getting a local rebuild is the best option because if there is a problem then there is someone near to deal with it rather than sending it back to somewhere else and having to deal with downtime, labor etc..
any which way back on topic (sorta).
getting a local rebuild is the best option because if there is a problem then there is someone near to deal with it rather than sending it back to somewhere else and having to deal with downtime, labor etc..
03-10-2008, 07:13 AM
#26
I haven't done it on a Max YET (original clutch has lasted 160K). I HAVE done lots of other cars both FWD and RWD over the last 40 years. Weirdest one I've seen is the last gen Cougar. Check out this TOB
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s.../CougarTOB.jpg
Yep, the slave cylinder and the TOB are one piece, mounted inside the bell housing. Good ole Ford engineering at it's best!
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s.../CougarTOB.jpg
Yep, the slave cylinder and the TOB are one piece, mounted inside the bell housing. Good ole Ford engineering at it's best!
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/gro...upID=CLUTCHREL
03-10-2008, 07:44 AM
#27
How many race transmissions have you worked on? That's the way most formula and open wheel cars are done. many others as well.
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/gro...upID=CLUTCHREL
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/gro...upID=CLUTCHREL
03-10-2008, 06:03 PM
#28
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 356
I checked out a local shop near me. They gave me a round about quote - $600 for labor and parts are extra. Off topic a bit - now my battery light is coming back on again. I took the alternator to get checked and it passed. I changed the battery terminals and still the battery isn't being charged.
I'm about ready to get rid of the max and get a pathfinder, I don't seem to have luck with the max(always the damed alternator). If I ever buy a hyundai I gotta be on some psych meds. don't worry fellas I'm trying to stay in the Nissan family.
I'm about ready to get rid of the max and get a pathfinder, I don't seem to have luck with the max(always the damed alternator). If I ever buy a hyundai I gotta be on some psych meds. don't worry fellas I'm trying to stay in the Nissan family.
03-10-2008, 08:50 PM
#29
so you're going from a VG-based Maxima to a VG-based Pathfinder?
you're only getting the same engine in a bigger package.
check the charging circuit (the wires going to the alternator) before you call it done. several years ago I had a problem with my alternator and it turned out to be a cut in the tiny wires behind the headlight and running down the core support. the car had been hit in the front right corner several years ago and the body shop that "fixed" it simply twisted the spliced wires together and taped over them. after several years, they fatigued and broke the connection.
A few minutes with a soldering iron, a short section of wire, and some shrink wrap solved the pproblem- and I'd gone through 3 alternators thinking the problem was there.
you're only getting the same engine in a bigger package.
check the charging circuit (the wires going to the alternator) before you call it done. several years ago I had a problem with my alternator and it turned out to be a cut in the tiny wires behind the headlight and running down the core support. the car had been hit in the front right corner several years ago and the body shop that "fixed" it simply twisted the spliced wires together and taped over them. after several years, they fatigued and broke the connection.
A few minutes with a soldering iron, a short section of wire, and some shrink wrap solved the pproblem- and I'd gone through 3 alternators thinking the problem was there.
03-11-2008, 05:09 PM
#30
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 356
I always wanted the Path., but its not definite. I bought a new set of tires back in December. so mostly I'm getting another max to put them on. I just dont want the headeaches I'm getting now with the next one.
I'm taking it to my mechanic tomorrow so he can find the short. Today I ran the car again. when the engine started the batt. light came on, I reved the engine and the light went out. A few minutes later the light came back on. So I think your right Matt. it has to be a short in the wiring somewhere. The question is where?
I'm taking it to my mechanic tomorrow so he can find the short. Today I ran the car again. when the engine started the batt. light came on, I reved the engine and the light went out. A few minutes later the light came back on. So I think your right Matt. it has to be a short in the wiring somewhere. The question is where?
03-11-2008, 06:17 PM
#32
03-12-2008, 05:44 AM
#34
Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Ohio
Posts: 37
I used the one that came with the Exedy clutch. I'm trying to troubleshoot...
1. There is gear oil in the trans.
2. It shifts through the gears fine.
For example when I'm in gear and take my foot off of the gas to let the car coast. I hear the rubbing noise. It stops when the car stops.
1. There is gear oil in the trans.
2. It shifts through the gears fine.
For example when I'm in gear and take my foot off of the gas to let the car coast. I hear the rubbing noise. It stops when the car stops.
Im having that problem as we speak...
this is my dilema:
when my foot is NOT on the clutch....its noisy....when I press on the clutch...the car is QUIET as hell...( barely hear it running )
through the shifting points...its noisy...ONLY when I press the clutch to shift...it quiets down.
NOW...when Im crusing..in 5th....its quiet as a mouse.
now...am I wrong...but isn't this a TOB problem...or is my clutch pad surface gone to ****?
engine: VE30DE
trans: 5spd
^ if that helps!
03-12-2008, 05:50 AM
#35
Im having that problem as we speak...
this is my dilema:
when my foot is NOT on the clutch....its noisy....when I press on the clutch...the car is QUIET as hell...( barely hear it running )
through the shifting points...its noisy...ONLY when I press the clutch to shift...it quiets down.
NOW...when Im crusing..in 5th....its quiet as a mouse.
now...am I wrong...but isn't this a TOB problem...or is my clutch pad surface gone to ****?
engine: VE30DE
trans: 5spd
^ if that helps!
this is my dilema:
when my foot is NOT on the clutch....its noisy....when I press on the clutch...the car is QUIET as hell...( barely hear it running )
through the shifting points...its noisy...ONLY when I press the clutch to shift...it quiets down.
NOW...when Im crusing..in 5th....its quiet as a mouse.
now...am I wrong...but isn't this a TOB problem...or is my clutch pad surface gone to ****?
engine: VE30DE
trans: 5spd
^ if that helps!
03-12-2008, 05:57 AM
#36
Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Ohio
Posts: 37
so is that hard to replace? ( this is my FIRST Nissan Maxima )...as I just got this car YESTERDAY! LOL
do I have to tear into the trans? ( yes, I know this is a NOOB way to ask...but Im going to attempt to repair this myself )
I have worked on Hondas ...owned hondas..for a LONG time..and this is my FIRST Nissan. dont know much about it....all I know is....its a fairly roomy car....has a DOHC 190hp/190trq V6...mated to a 5spd trans.
I wikipedia'd this car...and found out ...it was the TOP of the line of its year.
"SE" trim.
Im eager to learn about this car as I have learned about Hondas.
so I GREATLY appreciate this Forum ( thumbs up )
and the people that made this forum.
Now, let the learning begin....so Do I have to tear into the trans?
do I have to tear into the trans? ( yes, I know this is a NOOB way to ask...but Im going to attempt to repair this myself )
I have worked on Hondas ...owned hondas..for a LONG time..and this is my FIRST Nissan. dont know much about it....all I know is....its a fairly roomy car....has a DOHC 190hp/190trq V6...mated to a 5spd trans.
I wikipedia'd this car...and found out ...it was the TOP of the line of its year.
"SE" trim.
Im eager to learn about this car as I have learned about Hondas.
so I GREATLY appreciate this Forum ( thumbs up )
and the people that made this forum.
Now, let the learning begin....so Do I have to tear into the trans?
03-12-2008, 06:02 AM
#37
so is that hard to replace? ( this is my FIRST Nissan Maxima )...as I just got this car YESTERDAY! LOL
do I have to tear into the trans? ( yes, I know this is a NOOB way to ask...but Im going to attempt to repair this myself )
I have worked on Hondas ...owned hondas..for a LONG time..and this is my FIRST Nissan. dont know much about it....all I know is....its a fairly roomy car....has a DOHC 190hp/190trq V6...mated to a 5spd trans.
I wikipedia'd this car...and found out ...it was the TOP of the line of its year.
"SE" trim.
Im eager to learn about this car as I have learned about Hondas.
so I GREATLY appreciate this Forum ( thumbs up )
and the people that made this forum.
Now, let the learning begin....so Do I have to tear into the trans?
do I have to tear into the trans? ( yes, I know this is a NOOB way to ask...but Im going to attempt to repair this myself )
I have worked on Hondas ...owned hondas..for a LONG time..and this is my FIRST Nissan. dont know much about it....all I know is....its a fairly roomy car....has a DOHC 190hp/190trq V6...mated to a 5spd trans.
I wikipedia'd this car...and found out ...it was the TOP of the line of its year.
"SE" trim.
Im eager to learn about this car as I have learned about Hondas.
so I GREATLY appreciate this Forum ( thumbs up )
and the people that made this forum.
Now, let the learning begin....so Do I have to tear into the trans?
03-12-2008, 06:35 AM
#38
so is that hard to replace? ( this is my FIRST Nissan Maxima )...as I just got this car YESTERDAY! LOL
do I have to tear into the trans? ( yes, I know this is a NOOB way to ask...but Im going to attempt to repair this myself )
I have worked on Hondas ...owned hondas..for a LONG time..and this is my FIRST Nissan. dont know much about it....all I know is....its a fairly roomy car....has a DOHC 190hp/190trq V6...mated to a 5spd trans.
I wikipedia'd this car...and found out ...it was the TOP of the line of its year.
"SE" trim.
Im eager to learn about this car as I have learned about Hondas.
so I GREATLY appreciate this Forum ( thumbs up )
and the people that made this forum.
Now, let the learning begin....so Do I have to tear into the trans?
do I have to tear into the trans? ( yes, I know this is a NOOB way to ask...but Im going to attempt to repair this myself )
I have worked on Hondas ...owned hondas..for a LONG time..and this is my FIRST Nissan. dont know much about it....all I know is....its a fairly roomy car....has a DOHC 190hp/190trq V6...mated to a 5spd trans.
I wikipedia'd this car...and found out ...it was the TOP of the line of its year.
"SE" trim.
Im eager to learn about this car as I have learned about Hondas.
so I GREATLY appreciate this Forum ( thumbs up )
and the people that made this forum.
Now, let the learning begin....so Do I have to tear into the trans?
step 2. Read manual transmission section of the FSM
92-94 have the same basic FSM
as Wayne said it's probably the input shaft bearing which requires pulling the transmission to replace, but it's not a part that is hard to get to.
03-12-2008, 08:22 AM
#39
Or a shorted battery. If you live in a warm climate the car may still start with 10-11 volts, but the cranking will sound slow. Try getting the battery load tested at your local parts retailer.
03-19-2008, 05:42 PM
#40
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 356
Update: I got the car back from the mechanic. He said the alternator was bad so I took it back to autozone and they tested it. It failed. This was the same alternator that I took to them when the light was coming on and they said it passed.
Here's a joke, they looked me up in the computer and it shows that the bad alt. was bought in Feb........of 2008!! One month!! I think thats a new record. HA HA. They changed it for another one which will be my last one from them. The car is running ok for now. I'm just nervous about taking it on a long run.
Here's a joke, they looked me up in the computer and it shows that the bad alt. was bought in Feb........of 2008!! One month!! I think thats a new record. HA HA. They changed it for another one which will be my last one from them. The car is running ok for now. I'm just nervous about taking it on a long run.