cwm9

I'm trying to remove my steering rack so I can clean it up, replace the inner tie rods, and replace the boots.

I have it completely disconnected (both fluid lines, unbolted, universal joint removed) so that it is free floating, but for the life of me I cannot figure out how to get it out.

I've removed both outer tie rods, so only the inners remain, but it doesn't seem to fit through the sidewall.

Is there some secret to getting this thing out, or do you have to remove the entire engine block to get it out?

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

I'm gonna speculate that the inner tierod ends are going to have to be removed to get it out.

goon9

iTrader: (13)

I think I pulled it out the passenger side where he tie-rod go through. If not the driver. It's not tough, just some twisting, and you don't Need to remove the rods.

greeny I have pics for you...

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

More carnage?

goon9

iTrader: (13)

Sorta, aim?

jonmandude

iTrader: (1)

I just ordered new inner rods, will I have to take out the rack or can they be done without removing the whole assembly?

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

1. the rack can be pulled with the tierods still on it
2. the inners can be replaced with the rack still on the car.

cwm9

Well, I got the assembly out.

The answer is... maybe.

I had to take mine out.

1st, there's the mechanical lock plate that I can't seem to find a replacement anywhere that's a one time use part. The lock plate holds the inner tie rod in place so it cannot rotate. To remove the inner tie rod, you're supposed to bend up the tabs ("pry up the staked portion"). Having now done it I wish I hadn't. I think you could equally well have drilled out the detented bit instead of prying up the tabs, and that would have made the part reusable.

That part's not so bad, but once I got that off I could not for the life of me get the inner tie rod to budge off the rack.

Once the entire assembly was removed, I put one 10" adjustable pliers on the rack, 1 12" adjustable pliers on the inner tie rod, arranged the whole unit so that the 10" pliers were touching the ground, and pushed down on the 12" pair with my entire body weight (200 lbs) to get the inner tie rod to move.

When the unit is on the car, the inner tie rods are not very accessible, and the inner tie rod is a square not a hex, so it's difficult to grab. If you can squeeze with a force of 200lbs while under a car and/or your tie rods are not stuck on like mine were then maybe you can do it on the vehicle, but I couldn't.

The entire assembly did come out the driver's side opening where the tie rod goes through. I removed the outer tie rods before attempting to remove the unit, so I cannot vouch one way or the other that having the outer tie rods in place would make it impossible or not. The book says to remove them so I did.

cwm9

Does anyone know where to get the inner tie rod lock plate, or perhaps a compatible part? Ideally I'd like to get it from napa or checker, as I live on a tiny island and otherwise it takes several days to get anything...

shoult

iTrader: (1)

Like many little needed parts, it's probably going to be a dealer only part.

ProphetVG30E

if youre just replacing the tie rod ends, why are you going to take it off the car for??? thats more work for you, when you can just do it with the rack still on

cwm9

I answered that above?


I called around; Nissan wanted $18 EACH for those lock plates. Screw that. I hammered them back into shape and stuck em back on. Things are looking up... I think I might actually get through this!


In retrospect if I had to do it over again, I'd just buy a rebuilt rack from eBay for $130 after core exchange. The Inner tie rods + outer tie rods + boots + labor + didn't even change the inner seals really makes the $130 look cheap.

GRNMAXDMON

iTrader: (1)

i just bought a new rebuilt rack from my local parts store for about that same price with the core exchange and all i had to do was just install outer tie rod ends and was done.

MAXatBEACH

I'm about to do this job. My boots are toast and have been for awhile. I want to clean and regrease the rack as best as I can without taking it off the car. My question is, does anyone know what the proper grease or lube should be?

Thanks.

cwm9

MAXatBEACH:

Actually, in the FSM it didn't specify any at all for the rack, only the pinion needle and a few other places. It does say to clean all parts in dexron, so it seems that they are calling for no grease at all on the rack rod itself. The rack is the shaft of a piston inside the rack housing and is bathed in steering fluid (oil), so that part of the shaft (passenger side) shouldn't be greased at all I would think.

The driver side (teeth side) had a minimal amount of grease on it when I removed it from the car, but I don't know if that grease was originally there or if it migrated there when the boot tore.

Several places I read said that, IN GENERAL, rack and pinion faces should be greased. But that wasn't automotive specific; rather it was advice for any rack and pinion gear setup in any situation... robotics, etc.

If you grease the toothed rack parts, could the grease migrate along the rack and get past the oil seal? I dunno.

I just cleaned mine up and didn't grease it at all. So far it seems to work just fine and I am quite happy.

I am, however, new to the whole do-it-yourself auto-mechanic thing, so if someone else with some authority in their voice says to do otherwise, I'd follow their advice.

For now I think of it like adding too much salt to stew: it's easier to pop off the boot and smear on a little grease later if someone says I should than it is to take the grease out once I put it on...

MAXatBEACH

Thanks man. I think I'll go with the dextron.

92_SE_VE30DE

Lucas Red and Tacky ( thumbs up )

its like a polymer/lithium grease ( RED )

I use it all the time! ( good stuff )