G3Karl

iTrader: (1)

Does the VG30E (my '92 gxe) use sequential fuel injection? I replaced one of my injectors and the car now runs like crap under 3K rpms. It use to bog under load under 3K with the old injectors and have a obvious miss. Now the car runs smooth but under 3K it is a dog. Also over 25% throttle and its sluggish. I think the other injectors need to be replaced since this is the only thing that changed.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

were they rebuilts?

Wiking

How many miles logged for plugs, wires, cap, rotor, distr gnd clean...?

See http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/12

Pearl93VE

iTrader: (14)

How is Idle?

G3Karl

iTrader: (1)

idle is smooth and revs freely while in drive/neutral. It only bogs down under load. Over 3K the car runs smooth. Under 3K or over 25% throttle it bogs down. The injector is one of the originals that I sent for cleaning/rebuild. I did replace the wires awhile ago but not the plugs.

G3Karl

iTrader: (1)

sorry for the misunderstanding but i only replaced one injectors with a factory rebuild. I really dont think its the injectors, but think that its something else. Just cant put my finger on it. Car runs/revs smooth in par/neutral, its only a dog under load whild driving under 3K rpms.

Pearl93VE

iTrader: (14)

I had the same problem in my VE. It turned out to be the Coolant Temperature sensor. (ECTS) It may be worth checking out since your description sounds as mine did.

Here is the thread for more information on it:

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....nt+temperature

G3Karl

iTrader: (1)

I dont wanna start thowing parts at the car. How can I test the ECTS? My fuel mileage does suck, so this "may" be the problem.

Thanks.

*edit*


when the car is cold it runs fine, just when it warms up....

hummmm..

Wiking

Typical... Start from there: Plugs, wires (I MEAN REAL WIRES), Cap, Rotor, then do Ground the distr.

G3Karl

iTrader: (1)

I didnt do spark plugs because they looked good when I pulled them awhile ago. I am confident it is either the injectors or possibly the ECTS.

Anyone know how to test the ECTS?

*edit just found out how to test the ects*

Pearl93VE

iTrader: (14)

Disconnect The ECTS Wire Harness. Use a multimeter on it's lowest OHM setting (Should be like 0-100 or something) Touch each pin on the multimeter to each terminal in the ECTS plug (Not the wiring harness, the plug itself)

70 Degrees = 2.1-2.9 Ohm
122 Degrees = 0.68-1.0 Ohm
177 Degrees = 0.3-0.33 Ohm

Most ECT's when they go out read very high meaning they are stuck open. Mine on the other hand (And Probably yours) Will be stuck closed and have a very low/ No Reading. Causing the symptoms described.

Also, they're only $30. So this would be considered a tune up item in my eyes.

Wiking

What on earth is your ECTS?

Such an acronym is not in the whole FSM.

Pearl93VE

iTrader: (14)

Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor...

EF&EC-143

Wiking

Yes thank you. Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor... ECTS - not there.

Pearl93VE

iTrader: (14)

G3Karl

iTrader: (1)

im going to pick one up after work tonight and put it on. Hopefully its it. if not, i'll consider it a tune up part.

I got the hayens manual, but where is it located on the VG30E model? Just incase the haynes is incomplete.

Thanks!!!

Wiking

That proves youre ECTS -right!

G3Karl

iTrader: (1)

i put a new ects in. How many are on the VG30E? Im assuming its the sensor by the radiator hose/bypass hose by the thermostat assembly, on top of the motor?

I replaced it and the car runs alot better. Still sluggish under 3K though. Im going to clean my throttle body out and get all the carbon buildup off. Im also going to swap in the new injectors too.

gapboi210

The car running badly when it is warmed up? This couldn't be an o2 issue? Sounds like something to do with it going into closed loop.

Alex_V

My friend once told me he fixed the oil pressure sensor wire on his VG-auto and his idle smoothened out, and he gained some low end power. And his car was running "perfectly" before. So you might want to check and see that the wire is still connected and the sensor isn't falling apart. I'm going to replace mine since my car had alot of weird stuff loose and or not there from the previous owners.

~Alex

G3Karl

iTrader: (1)

Bingo. Car runs like a champ when cold. As soon as it warms up, runs like crap under 3K or over ~25% throttle. Sounds like a closed loop issue. I was hoping the ECTS would have taken care of it. Im sure its the original one. Proabbly it since my gas mileage sucks. Where is the o2 osensor n these cars?

G3Karl

iTrader: (1)

Do you have a picture of where this is located? I think its on the back of the motor, nearest to the firewall?

G3Karl

iTrader: (1)

oh, and im assuming the VG30E only has one ECTS?

gapboi210

have u tried pulling codes?

G3Karl

iTrader: (1)

No, how do I do that? My service engine soon light does not come on while driving.

G3Karl

iTrader: (1)

one more question. Where is the o2 located?

Pearl93VE

iTrader: (14)

On The Y-Pipe, Just before the catalytic converter.

gapboi210

they won't always throw a CEL if there is a code (seems espcially true on OBDI) here are the instructions

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=399534

the pics are gone. You can get to the ECM on the passenger side floor in front of the center console below the stereo. There is a little plastic access panel.

G3Karl

iTrader: (1)

how many o2 sensors? I checked autozone.com and they say two....one before the cat. converter and one after.

?

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

I still see the pics.

1992maximase30

there's one o2 sensor before the cat but after the flex pipe....my bet is on the knock sensor.
john,brian, and a couple others told me it could be the knock sensor...did'nt have a code for it till later.

then brian gave me a way to "bypass" the knock sensor...and BAM i had me low end.
even though i had the ve but i'm sure it applies to the vg too.

and btw, yes your engine has multi-port sequential fuel injection.
unless one of it's important sensors are'nt working properly...then it just switches to multi-port injection.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

that's because they're retarded. 3rd gens have one 02 sensor.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

but they make such quality parts! how could they have this wrong???

gapboi210

oops sorry maybe i couldn't see pics due to the firewall @ work

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

sometimes it's better to just rip the bandaid off... and let the truth come and hit you like a

G3Karl

iTrader: (1)

well I replaced the o2 sensor today and wah-lah....car runs *almost* perfect. The o2 sensor that I took off was in bad shape.

I got the new injectors today. I will proabbly put them in on saturday or sunday.

Are there any other sensors on this car I should replace? So far ive replaced the ECTS and o2.

Anything else? I've also flushed the cooling system, new radiator hoses and had the a/c recharged last year. Im getting ready for the summer driving season and dont want any problems.

G3Karl

iTrader: (1)

where is the knock sensor located?

shoult

iTrader: (1)

Did you get the AC recharged with R-12 or have you converted to R134a?

Pearl93VE

iTrader: (14)

knock sensors usually don't cause many problems for VG's, I forget the exact location in them as well. I assume you have replaced your fuel filter as well?

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

vg knock sensor is on the side of the block by the rear exhaust manifold.
that's part of the reason it is useless