CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

what i see at 6:22 proves that you are NOT in failsafe. 5200 in at 40mph is DEFINITELY 1st gear. If you were in failsafe you would not be able to go above 2300 until you hit like 30mph, and at 40 you'd be doing around 2600 at WOT. So that's not the problem. I'm more concerned about the engine rather than the transmisison really. It just seems like you have **** for power. That would cause the shifts to be drawn out b/c it takes you SO MUCH throttle position to accelerate. looking at the stuff around the 4 minute mark i'd have to say your tranny appears to be fine... it shifted 1-2 at 3000 when you were on part throttle, which is about right. You just don't have the power to move the car..

obviously you aren't actually doing so, but does it give the effect of driving w/ your ebrake up? have you already done the basic tuneup items? you're gonna have to check for stuff that your mechanic could have screwed up on the engine. Make sure there's a little black wire leading from the transmission case to the frame near the intake.. that's a groundwire and if it's not on that could cause weird problems. but this time the ball seems to be in the engine's court.

rmdl51

iTrader: (4)

OMG! are you serious! how come mechanic never even mentioned! damn! he's a F^cking Idiot, no wonder he bring back the intake body from my old engine and said "um, it seems like your old intake was better" WTF!!!

Oh well, you know I wish I could completely discard the possibility of a tranny malfunction, but there's a bad inhibitor switch, I'll check the wires and stuff.

Again, pardon my ignorance, but what are considered basic tune up items, as far as I know, Spark plugs are new, NGK wires are new, oil seems clean, oil filter is new, tranny fluid seems clear pink, fuel filter was changed a year ago, mechanic said he install new timing belt (I can notice is new) new water pump and a few more items, he give me a list.

Maybe it's all related, CEL, grounds, Inhib sw, but for an inexperienced person like me is too much. I've read walt's wirte up about inhib sw and I don't get the readings I'm supposed to get from certain pins, however the adjustment says install the pin as vertical as possible and it's installed that way, so I guess it can't be bad adjustment, now from the diagrams walt says inhib sw is not pictured because is outside the tranny, then how do I replace this switch? do I really need to lift the car and lower the tranny to be able to replace it? or can be done from top if air tube & MAF are out of the way?

Edit: maybe I can check that myself but I'm asking because I'm not sure and I would not like to disassemble more parts in vain, but first things first, I'll check ground cables today

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

change the fuel filter again, the PCV valve, distro cap and rotor. also make sure that no vacuum lines are broken and check that ground wire on the tranny. once you do that stuff (comparitively far less money than what you've spend already.. that total should bring you to about $25-35 for all that) then see if it still runs like ish. as for the codes you still have, do the FSM wire check for that, because it seems to me that if you replaced the parts that the codes were thrown for, then the only problem HAS to be the wiring (remember my o2 sensor?).

my first thought every time i see you post something is "man his car is just plain f***ed up" but then again, we had the same problem on my friend's probe. had compression, had fuel, had spark, had timing set properly... but no worky. finally got it fixed, but man it was SO frustrating having a car that, according to anyone, should have been running like a champ, just sit there cranking and draining the battery.

so let's start simple and work from there. but from how your engine sounded at idle, well, it sounds like crap.



also was your car cold when you did the video or did you warm it up, shut it off, and then start the video. i forgot to check and i don't want to have youtube show up again on the server logs.

Wiking

- Videos comes after serious testing
- All TCU signals, supply Voltage tested - as explained; especially TPS (have not seen yet?)
- All funny hoses have to be at factory settings
- Distr grounding as explained ... Tacho pulse tested ok
- Ignition timing has to be verified
- All other groundings as explained
- MAF has to be ok. Replace/Test with another.

Inhibitor
Three screws plus attachment to gear selector, PITA place. I'd try ... Taking drivers wheel, all shields out, drop engine as low as possible...

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

if you have a bit driver phillips head tip and a 1/4" socket you can make a ghetto right-angle screwdriver. i've used it many times on other cars' clusters and stuff where a screwdriver wouldn't fit without removing WAY more stuff than i really needed to remove.

rmdl51

iTrader: (4)

Man, that really turn my head down! but I rather hear (read) an honest opinion about it, it's about what is true and not what I want to hear, and the problem is I have no idea how a Maxima VG was supposed to sound at idle, for the way it sound before I thought it was much better. but I guess I was wrong.

Yes, the car was cold when I start the car the first time on the video, the car hasn't been started for about 3 days, I noticed there's a vacuum noise from the HAI tube, it didn't sound like that before, maybe the tubes needs cleaning.

I will try a short video today from the idle engine on a more quiet enviroment, I hope the external noise was misleading you anything else you would like me to film on that video? (without driving man! it's PITA to drive when I get home at 6pm)

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

take videos getting sound both from the tailpipe and the engine bay... warm idle and warm revving (put camera on ground for the tailpipe one unless you have a helper who can respond to non-verbal signals.)

my hai makes a loud sucking sound (like a jet engine kinda) so if yours sounds like that, then that's normal. I'll take the same videos as you do tonight when i get home so you can see what a Veggieburger should sound like.

and maybe even get a 3rd opinion off nc90gxe's engine, since i'm meeting him for the first time tonight. he's coming to my place tonight scavenge for a few parts and see my swapped goodness.

rmdl51

iTrader: (4)

Ok! I took the video but it was getting dark, I think what matters is the sound, so... uploading....

rmdl51

iTrader: (4)

Done, gee photobucket takes forever besides it encodes it sooo darker!




BTW will something like this help to take out the inhib sw

http://www.lsdinc.com/content/product_details/13

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

that doesn't sound so bad after all. i still hate the whir noise that my car, your car, and the probe make. it sounds like a rubbing belt or some crap like that... it just sounds so "pitiful" but my car does it too so there's no difference there between mine and yours. does your engine run rough when accelerating? or is it smooth but just not accelerating enough? your video doesn't make it seem all too rough, so i'm thinking maybe just down on power? it's hard to diagnose this stuff from 3000 miles away...

PM big e dog and see if he would be willing to meet you halfway and take a look at it.. you're about 2 hours from him.

rmdl51

iTrader: (4)

True!

Man! why are you (and everybody else) so far, do I need to mention Wiking? he's even across the ocean, God! I wish there were a place with a big sign: "Maxima Specialists" at least "Nissan Specialists"

Well, to the point, for my perception the car doesn't feel rough, the point is the car is powerless from 0 to 15-20mph I could floor it and still will take about 4-5 secs to just cross a street, once it reaches some speed, I say some speed because sometimes is 25mph some other 35mph I feel the car very powerful picking up speed very smooth, however I haven't go into a freeway to gain real speed (haven't raised over 70mph after the rebuild)

I really want to try the self diagnostic, but with inhib sw bad I can't run it (could you sell me one? PM me about this please), I need to start solving problems one by one until I find the Freaking problem, at least right now I know is not TCU, TPS is ok, the rest...well... I don't have much knowledge about it... let's start with your list...

Fuel filter: which one? any? from autozone? I don't think so right?
PCV valve: err, what is this again? I can see it on walt's write up but can't locate it at the car.
Distro cap & rotor: aren't this expensive? if not then same as fuel filter, where can I get them, I have autozone & pepboys across the street but I don't wanna go there you better than me know why.

Now, walt mention the MAF I centainly had a code for MAF but it's gone, I still gonna clean it when I take out intake tubes to reach inhib sw, but still how do I know if MAF is good or not, I don't have a spare one to test.

Did I ever tell you the moron who sold me this car was driving the car without air filter, but that's 3 years ago I install the filter back then and the car was excellent, but never checked if MAF was damaged.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

I wouldnt bother(just my opinion). use the ratchet method above. whatever that thing costs, its not worth it for just this project.(however if you think that the price would be justified for other projects...)

rmdl51

iTrader: (4)

I just mentioned that tool because I already have something similar, actually just some cheap phillips screwdiver angled that I bought at a swap meet for $1 and I use it to loose the TPS, I was wondering if that will do the job

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

then it should be okay. that would be easier than a ratchet. don't know why it would work.
just a question: is there a gear mechanism in it?(for personal reference)

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

PCV valve is on the back-driverside corner of the intake manifold next to the little bolt that says "ne pas ouvrir chaud" which is french for "do not open while hot" (aka coolant bleeder bolt).

PCV ($7?), distrocap ($10-15), rotor ($5) and fuel filter ($just-bought-one-in-January-but-forgot-how-much-it-was) are all fine from autozone. maybe not the absolute BEST quality, but it's going to be b etter than what's on there now (exception is wires, which you should get a good set of 8mms from a good aftermarket source, about $60, if you really want good wires). I do a full tuneup minus wires annually. may not be necessary driving about 15k a year but frankly, why not? can't possibly hurt anything unless you are undergoing a MASSIVE downgrade in parts quality by replacing with az stuff. but that's unlikely.

use MAF cleaner and nothing but MAF cleaner to clean the MAF. it's about as sensitive as a papercut and the cleaner isn't but a few dollars for an aerosol. I have a whole damn can still and haven't sprayed it but for about 20 seconds total on 2 cars.

i've got a spare maf that is good, as well as the inhibitor switch thing. did you ever test the inhibitor? or are you just assuming it's bad?

also see what you can do about testing your injector ohmage. but if you don't have a misfire i'd assume they're OK.

Wiking

One problem is only during low airflow rate, as idle seems ok... points to MAF. Measure the MAF output voltage with dmm.

IF intake leak, is the plenum to intake tube rubber tingie ripped?

To this point you have been talking about A/T. Try running ECU self diagnostics. see http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/21

As said again, get the TPS voltage values at TCU = Take TCU on passenger floor...

LvR

Jeez - that vehicle of yours is noisy/clanky. This is what my VG sounds like after 300Kkm

As to your performance thing .................... the fact that once the motor gains revs that it starts performing makes me think there is a "timing" related issue.................what is your ignition timing?

Are you sure the guy that did your cambelt got the timing relationship between the cams/crank right? - Did this car ever run ok? - if so what happened between then and now?

rmdl51

iTrader: (4)

Ok let me start answering one by one:

caped, I'll get those parts tomorrow from AZ and try to replace them myself I think is nothing hard but never done before, so I'll see what I can do. Yes I test the pins on the connector from inhib sw and I get continuity on pins I shouldn't have and where it should be there's no continuity (no beep). Therefore I assume switch is bad, am I wrong?

Wiking, what reading I should get from the pins on the MAF? I don't know what rubber tingie you are talking about, from the plenum to intake? I've run the ECU diagnostic and is throwing 34, are really mandatory the voltages of TPS on TCU? I'm not lazy, I'm really having a hard time reading those, and I've tried twice. I have a spare TPS and I even bought a new one from AZ and the car behaves the same way with a brand new TPS (don't worry I return it and get that money back now)

LvR, to be honest I notice my car is much noisier but can't tell the difference of the reving to me sounds alike. I don't know how to check ignition timing, how do I do that?
Now that I know this so called mechanic mess up with my car I can't be sure of anything.

When I bought this car 3 years ago it was running awesome! very strong! I still remember how it felt when I barely press the gas pedal, right now my dad's 94 corolla is more powerful than my Maxima and it's a 4-cyl, I mean come on! there's no way those things can be more powerful than a Maxima.

What happened? well, long story, my first car ever, dec 2004 didn't even know what a spark plug is, that's just to give you an idea how ignorant I was but then I start reading, asking, learning, join the org, start with basics changing filters, installing plugs, resumed history:
new plugs jan 05
leak on power steering replace hose feb 05
replaced a bad starter april 05
replaces spark plug wires jul 05
regular oil changes at EZ lube every 3 months and AT fluid every year
bad temp sensor replaced overheated aug 06 (main problems begin)
shop detect car running rough, leak on upper hose radiator overheated oct 06
shop detect mayor oil leak, dec 06 a mechanic said no compression on one cylinder
april 07 huge clank noise at take off, replace both cv axles
also repair huge exahust leak and install WSP
Tranny start slipping... engine keeps running rough at uphills it barely makes it.
jan 08 JDM engine swap, Tranny rebuild

LvR

Well - since we are talking JDM replacement motor, then all of what happened before is quite irrelevant (even though it does sound like a disaster especially with the overheating thing) -have you ever had this JDM motor run smooth and satisfactorily?

As far as checking the JDM motor's timing - I have no personal experience with that particular flavor of the animal and even though the basic idea about checking the timing is the same (timing light, directed at fixed scale on crank nose/flywheel), you will have to check the forum or get a relevant FSM to get accurate info.

When you replaced the original motor with the JDM, did you replace MAF, TPS or ECU too? - I seem to remember people saying the MAF/TPS is different (may be demonstrating my Alzheimer's again but there you go anyway) and I would suspect that the ECU may be rather specific too - I know I have seen threads here with lots of details on JDM swaps - perhaps you need to wade through those experiences first before trying to troubleshoot possibly unsolvable problems due to basic differences

Wiking

- "caped, ... switch is bad..."
--->yes it is

- "....what reading I should get from the pins on the MAF? "
----> Did u read http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/9 did u? ...

Put a DMM probes into MAF pin b (second from left) & gnd
- Ign on, engine stopped 1V
- Idling, temp up 1-1,7V
- 2500 rpm 1.5-2.1V
- Important: look for linear voltage rise up to 4000rpm.
.
MAF Connector, stamped on MAF:

VGE: A B C D E (F not connected)
E +12V Fusible Link F2 Br
D ECU26 B
C Shield, Ground
B ECU 27 W
A ECU 37 G/OR (not used)

- "I don't know what rubber tingie you are talking about"
----> ...at bottom of picture, blk flex 75mm diameter. May be ripped, bend it to check:



- "are really mandatory the voltages of TPS on TCU? I'm not lazy, I'm really having a hard time reading those, and I've tried twice. "
---> no excuses. If getting car is mandatory, the videoing wont hlp - ONLY verify & repair

----> Brand new cars may be broken. 'NEW' is no warranty for anythin.

"so called mechanic mess up with my car I can't be sure of anything."
---> sadly globally true

jan 08 JDM engine swap, Tranny rebuild
--->this wipes out the engine/tranny history

Wiking

As I understand, VE/VG TPS are different. MAF is 'the same'.

Whatever, all sensors (and ign timing as u correctly point out) have to be verified separately ... until self diagnostics run error free.

Only way to check ignition is to buy the ign timing light, 20$? - checking is easy.

LvR

Thats what I am getting at - I am not sure that the combination of different model sensors (though possibly correctly transposed with the JDM motor) will result in the original ECU able to run clear diagnostics.

Question - Is the ECU currently in the vehicle the correct one for the JDM ...................... iow stop measuring and confirm you have the right items to actually measure else you are wasting your time chasing no possible solution with a completely unknown/unworkable combination of items on the motor

Wiking

True, the ECU compatibility is a question that has to be checked if diagnostics wont run - after sensor tests have been passed. Maybe here's also the Nissan's list for ECU versions? http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/tsb ... (...no idea what that version lits relates to.)

Sensors have to be verified first, separately.

rmdl51

iTrader: (4)

LvR, Nope I never had this engine running satisfactory, neither replaced MAF or ECU, It was replaced the EGR, TPS, Actuator, IACV and I have those spare parts along with my old injectors and rail, I bought from the local junkyard TCU and ECU, but I guess ECU is US too and won't help if the problem is the compatibility.

Wiking, sorry man, I missed that part from MAF, I'll measure it tonight, I'll check the intake tube to plenum also, where do I get ignition timing light? local auto parts? anyone

I actually believe my problem is not so complicated, I might be wrong but I keep getting the feeling when I try the car that the problem rely somewhere on a sensor or wiring, that's why I don't wanna take it to another shop, they will charge a small fortune for something I could prolly do myself.

I'll measure MAF and let you know

Wiking

Local, get the cheapest ... like this http://www.padandwheels.com/mr2/timing/timing.html

rmdl51

iTrader: (4)

Ok guys! I bring more data:

MAF:
Ignition on, engine off: Between pins B-C no voltage
Engine On idle at 1.2k RPM: same pins 1.836v
Engine reving from 1.2k to 2.5k RPM: same pins 1.836v to 2.346v

Knock sensor: 0.536 Mohm which according to walt's write up is ok

I tried again AT self diagnostic and no luck, tried to start the car on 1 (AKA L)and... yes it turns on! so inhib sw is bad as I previously stated.

run ECU diagnostic again and I got: 12-MAF 33-O2 sensor 34-Knock sensor

now the questions, if know sensor is really bad I shouldn't get that reading right? what are KS test pins for? I tried measure ohms there and I saw a spark

is MAF bad because I have no voltage when ignition is on and engine stopped?

now, WTH is that 33? what a re simptoms of a bad o2 sensor, I forgot to mention the tail pipe smoke even tough is clear the smell is terrible, I don't know how to describe it but it didn't smell that way with my old engine, it makes me cough even tough I'm far from it.

I couldn't stop by local auto parts today, will do tomorrow after work, I noticed some noise from under the distribuitor, so I'll be replacing what capedcadaver suggest, distro cap, rotor, fuel filter & PVC valve.

benstocked I missed your post before, but to answer that, it doesn't have anything special just an angled screwdiver not like the one pictured on the link, the one i got is very cheap, just imagine you grab a regular screwdiver and you bent the last inch 90 degrees, just like that.

LvR

This is really painful ................... and IMO you are going to be wasting even more money, time and effort if you don't approach this very methodically.

Like I said before - you removed your original motor and slapped a JDM in there .................... you fist have to be sure you have right ECU.

1. So ...................... do you?

2. Are ALL the sensors involved with the engine's ECU, ALL the correct models for the JDM motor's ECU?

If you are not sure of either #1 or #2 then whatever you measure, discuss or report is completely useless and your current situation is testiment to that.

Wiking

Idle is too high, has to be around 850rpm. Possibly air leak... Funny or missing hoses, intake gasket(s) ripped. How to find? Take all out -or- try spraying oil, water whatever liquid = will drop the idle rpm when liquid plugs the leak. Spraying gas, starter gas =ether, whatever will yank the idle rpm up when it hits the leak.

MAF will not give error msg when its ok. I guess I'll today attach scope to my MAF (testing new MAF setup) ... will give more specific answer later.
Edit: My MAF today, pin B:
- ACC /engine OFF-->0.3V,
- Idle--->1.25V,
- 6500rpm, ---->3.3V.
(these values definitely change between MAF units )

Forget the KS until everything else is running. (Then test-try the bypass resistor)

Stink ... air mixture/injection is not ok. I guess also injector leak may cause this. This happens to my max time to time - toxic stink is terriblese. Never happens in Non cat engine.

---->Still missing your TPS voltage reading measured from TCU...

Summarum: I'd find another MAF after seeing TPS values are ok.

Wiking

As far as I remember, he has (?) now VE-type TPS on this WVG =weird ... calls for trouble. Could explain why half throttle doesnt do any good (The voltage ECU receives, indicates 1/8 throttle opening. The WOT voltage ECU receives from TPS, indicates 1/2 throttle opening)

LvR

Good example I guess, but yes, that is exactly what I am getting at - if the sensors and ECU are not talking exactly the same language, then the one will confuse the other and you will be in a hopeless situation.

Wiking

Here's some functional MAFF ing ... 3.5Volts at WOT 6500rpm
http://s305.photobucket.com/albums/n...MAFmeasure.flv

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

*** backwards way to do things.
When you swap in a replacement motor ALWAYS take ALL the external pieces (sensors, manifolds,etc..) off your existing engine and swap them over.
in the case of a JDM VE there are a couple of sensors that are different and will cause issues. If you swap all the externals over rather than swapping in an ecu you will be able to find the future replacement pieces rather easily instead of looking for some special piece that was never used here.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

qft. easier to americanify a JDM engine than to japaneseify a USDM car

hey rmdl do you have the original motor still (storage, friend's house, etc) or is it no longer available to you?

LvR

Well I had to start asking direct questions about what exactly is on the JDM motor NOW somewhere - agreed you want only your local stuff present but throughout this thread I cannot get a simple definitive answer to that question.

shoult

iTrader: (1)

+1

Been there, done that, got the greasy t-shirt to show for it!

rmdl51

iTrader: (4)

Hold on! just to clear up a little bit, I have a VG engine not a VE unless you are talking about something else and I got confused (wiking & internetautomar).

I have test 3 TPS on this engine, the one that come with JDM, my old one and a cheap new one from AZ, the car behaves the same with all 3.

Nope I don't have my old engine however I could call the machanic and have him check if the warehouse still have it, two weeks ago they still have it and that's why he bring the intake from my old USDM engine, along with TPS, EGR, IACV, PCV and that's it as far as I remember, what else should be replaced on the engine swap?

So, what are you suggesting? get Jap ECU? or get all US parts sensors? by americanify a JDM engine I understand to get all US sensors and parts to make the JDM work as a USDM with the US ECU, am I correct?

My next measures will be again on TPS to clear up everything about it, I'll get Voltage on TCU, and ohms on potentiometer.

BTW, I check the intake tube to plenum and no cracks/leaks, however I continue to hear some hissing sound somewhere, maybe I have a leak on the hoses, I'll check them again.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

basically every sensor that plugs into the harness should be USDM. also does anyone know if a JDM VG has a different vaccuum arrangement from the USDM? This mechanic you were using doesn't seem to be aware of the existence of such things, really. Mainly what we're looking to see here is if you can get all your old sensors, at least to test with your current JDM engine.

rmdl51

iTrader: (4)

When he (mechanic) asked me if I want a JDM or USDM he mentioned that intake manifild and some other parts are different and he'll use the parts from my old engine, however when he delivered the car he said there wasn't much difference at all and he used all JDM parts that came with it... BS right? b/c when he got the intake back from my old engine he said "well it looks like your old parts were better" and I was like WTF!! he was supposed to test everything before delivering the car, but well forget about it, I don't want to discuss about this stupid people, I just want to have my car running again.

So, I already have the parts mentioned in my previous post, what else am I missing? my whole Intake is USDM, consider everything, actuator, IACV, TPS, everything, what else?

just name it and I'll try to get it ASAP, I just want to be certain that sensors are not a compatibility issue, just please don't tell me later that the main block of the engine won't work on my US ECU because if that's a possibility it's better to better know now.

I call a transmission shop and they told me they could check the car at no charge just to make sure if the problem is on the transmission or not, what do you say? you could say my problem is definitely on the engine due the video and the simptoms given?

Wiking

--->Consistent with funny hoses, hi idle rpm.

This MAF tst is quick, dmm into Pin B
http://s305.photobucket.com/albums/n...MAFmeasure.flv

As said, VGE TPS resistance is 1k-9kOhms.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

what about the fuel system? what injectors and fuel pressure regulator are you using? what about coolant temp sensor and oil pressure sensor?

I'm trying to think of all the plugs on the engine. how about the power transistor?