rmdl51

iTrader: (4)

then what does VE-type TPS mean?



I'm using the injectors that came with the JDM, I don't know if mechanic replaced temp sensor or use my old one, everything else I have no idea and I don't even know location or how do they look like (oil pressure sensor, fuel pressure regulator, power transistor)

Could you guide me to check those with pictures? and how do I know if they are from the JDM or USDM? honestly the parts I have from JDM and USDM looks identical! I know there may be some differences on specs of every sensor I just mention that they look identical.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

it's fair to assume that everyting on your JDM engine that wasn't swapped from your old engine is JDM. Such as those sensors. See if your mechanic can give you a list of every item he took from your USDM engine. Injectors... that's something to think about if they are JDM injectors. I don't know much about JDM so i'm just opening possilities here. I'm at work right now so i can't provide pictures right now but i know that greeny has a massive stockpile of pictures of where parts are, so if he peeks at this thread (he's a mod so he probably will) you might be able to coax him into posting some pics.

Wiking

Nope. Only some sensors differ.

TPS: VGE 1kOhm-9kOhms, VE 0.5k-5kOhm. JDM and USDM not relevant here.

Oil pressure switch is a switch is a switch, forget it. JDM and USDM not relevant here.

Temp sensor ohm ratings can be verified. DO VERIFY. JDM and USDM not relevant here. Neither they can they affect your engine like in the video.






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Sit down and take a deep breath. Write down a plan what to do. Do all systemically, keep log what have been done.

Verify all relevant engine sensors that they do work. TPS, MAF, distr rev sensor, O2. (all others are secondary - e.g. wont 'kill' low rpm like in your video). Then figure out your ECU and TCU versions.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

waaaait.. the egr temp sensor is on the other side of the engine! it's just below the intake plenum's overhang, just above the green and orange solenoids for powervalve/egr. on your pic above it should be CTS on the left (rear-facing... where you wrote "EGRC") and CHTS aka temp needle sensor on the right (front-facing where you wrote "Engine Temp")

rmdl51

iTrader: (4)

X2
I know that sensor because it cause problems with my old engine preventing my fans to turn on, so that's the coolant temp sensor right? CTS?

BTW I forgot to ask if the MAF measurements should be done on any specific gear, I did all the measures on P, was that ok? or doesn't matter?

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

if your iacv is pulling extra air or someshyte at idle from the inhibitor being stupid and broken then maybe your readings will be slightly off. But i can't say that for sure. Usually measurements are taken in P/N tho.

Wiking

Not in my max. Just two sensors, like in the schema:




the other end solenoids:



If theres smtg to correct, pls show me with the source. Pls check
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/3

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

k i'll go snap some pics

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

Wiking, you don't have a USDM maxima. you have a euro model and it is safe to ASSuME that there is differences between yours and ours, just like there are differences between the JDM and USDM cars.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

well unless the EDM's EGR hose runs on the front side of the engine then there's no way for the EGR temp sensor to be so far away from the EGR system anyhow... but i know what you mean about that. Just look at his car's taillights..

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

he may not have one at all

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

yeah maybe not. i'd think he would, since euro emissions are tighter than US emissions, but maybe EGR is a cheap way of getting "decent" emissions where the EDM has a more expensive, more effective alternative to it? Who knows...

What particular emission(s) do(es) the EGR system help reduce anyhow?

Wiking

For what is the schema in the -94 FSM? I guess its for all those minus none = confuzean.

As seen above, there are two temp sensors in the schema, both directly wired to ECU. I have always though that this is bingo with the two water temp sensors in schema/pics above... Maybe not?

New mystery for me: I just found a text in FSM: "...the EGR temp sensor monitors exhaust... EF&EC17" ---> I have not found such temp sensor.

Also there is no (EGRC)-BPT valve - I guess that is common for all VGE's???. FSM page EF&EC15.

Still EGR valve control is affected by coolant temp.

(Note: My rear add on brake light is from local shop, tuned flat ... illegal location - illegal like 'any' safety mods here)

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

the 94 FSM online is for USDM models.
Canadian models vary slightly on some things, that are covered in the FSM.
African models have differences, it is logical to assume that euro models have variations as well.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

My car has both the BPT and the EGR Temp Sensor. I have a california spec engine swapped in (some time in the past, way before I got it) tho. It's even got the 92-94 style injectors. But that's what that stuff is for. But the EGR Temp Sensor was not ever connected because it was not needed by my 90Fed ECU

and ya i know what you mean about "illegal safety enhancements". Technically in the US all HID/projector retrofits are illegal, despite the fact that if done by someone who actually takes precautions NOT to blind oncoming traffic, that it can be an incredible enhancement to safety.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

alright rmdl... back to you.. how's the tuneup coming? also have you gotten the mechanic to tell you if your engine is still available to you?

1992maximase30

wait all veggies 89-94 does'nt matter what country comes with a egr temp sensor.
man thats for sure a engine problem....i have to say that your car should've been revving quicker than that.
AND your check engine light is on.
according to some of the peeps here that light rarely comes on.

LvR

Perfect example of how wrong one can be.

In South Africa we don't have any EGR related stuff and no O2 sensor either

1992maximase30

my bad i meant to say i thought all 89-94 did'nt come with egr temp unless from cali.
tryin to get my post in real quick...lil too quick.

Wiking

S it happens too easily

But NOOO o2? Then the injection ctrl is all based on ECU table and TPS/MAF.

How many liters per 100km is typical, hway?

LvR

Yep - and I would think the ECTS is quite involved in this too.

I would love to have had an O2 sensor because I feel a tighter closed loop system is far better economy wise than a simple mapped system that cannot possibly take into account the aging of the motor and various other components.

Still - good performance, auto, around 300K km, and I see around 8km/l in town and around 10.5 on the open road doing 120kph (4 people, luggage and aircon in use) ................... compared to what you guys are reporting here its nothing to sneeze at.

All of this actually points to a pretty well-sorted ECU imo if it can manage all of that with a simple factory predetermined fuel/ignition map.

Wiking

O... with those numbers I'd not love O2 ... I guess EGR robs us the 10% more fuel - from all nations. This means lower %% visions - BUT total toxin increase.

Greenpiss politics, going worse: the whole idea of billion cars to constantly calculate input/output variables is just insane. One big ECU-table could contain all. In new cars, the constantly "upgraded" electronics add ons under hood is not green, but greed. The sales -story is to meet all polar bear*1 needs, just one sales-fraud to rob car owners via a 'green' bs-circus.

*1 census: proliferating population up 1000% = greenpie propaganda extinction.

And the result? http://www.telegraph.co.uk/money/mai.../ccview114.xml

LvR

I suspect that maintenance on any motor is critical, and as such I think mine may be a prime example of what can be achieved if the fuel/ignition mapping is still able to manage the motor properly(?) after all this time and distance covered.

I would however think that eg the injectors are no longer performing to 100% performance spec, some carbon buildup is undoubtedly present and that is where I think the O2 may/will be able to compensate by picking up on eg a lean running condition ..................... then again ............... I am driving a known auto-box with 300K km on it, so perhaps I don't really need that last 10Hp or so that may be gained (?) - especially since performance and drive-ability is imo quite acceptable.

rmdl51

iTrader: (4)

All right, I barely make time yesterday to stop by AZ and buy all the stuff you mentioned: distro cap, rotor, PCV valve, fuel filter, I will try to install those today, I ask for MAF cleaner but the girl at auto zone said starter fluid is wha they have, and I wonder, why she offer that? is that something related to a MAF cleaner? anyways I didn't get it because it didn't make sense for me.

I haven't call the mechanic yet, again, what are we looking from the old engine? I mean which parts?

BTW, is there a chance you can take a picture of inhib sw out of the tranny? so just to have an idea how it's supposed to be assembled, Thanks!

Problem with engine or not, inhib sw is bad and needs to be replaced, once I get self diagnose running and see no problems I'll be 100% sure tranny guy wasn't fooling around

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

1) if az doesn't have it, AA will do
2) ask him exactly what sensors and switches and items he used from the USDM motor, and which are still on the USDM motor
3) i'll take it off tonight and snap some pics. that's what you want right? pics of it off the tranny?

rmdl51

iTrader: (4)

1) AA? no idea if that's a store, but will try pepboys or kragen today.
2) just called him but no answer, left a message. but I'm pretty sure that his answer will be everything is JDM except of the parts he replaced 2 weeks ago, the ones I described before (intake body along with EGR, IACV, PCV valve, Actuator, TPS.) because he told me he used the whole parts from the JDM since it was 80k miles and he "thought" parts should be in better condition.
3) Yes, pictures of it off the tranny

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

1) aa is Advance Auto
2) well he's retarded.
3) ok

rmdl51

iTrader: (4)

Ok, uh no Advance auto here in California, but I'll check the ones I mentioned before. BTW, do you have any tips or recommendations when replacing the parts I bought, I know those look very easy to replace but I never done before and I don't wanna mess up anything, specially fuel filter, I think there will be some drip right? should I worry about anything? like getting air on the fuel line or anything, never done it that why I ask, Thanks!

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

just pull the fuel pump fuse, and start the car before changing the fuel filter

rmdl51

iTrader: (4)

mmm... I know I'm a noob on eeeeverything (Maxima related) and that's why I would like to learn the purpose of doing that:
First disconnect fuel pump fuse then start the car? will it start? is that a way to drain any fuel on the lines? what's the behavior I should expect from the car without the fuel pump fuse? where is this fuse located? inside the car just at the left under the steering wheel where all the fuses are?

When I measure my MAF I disconnect it while running and the car turns off, I was scared I tought I ruined the car so I tried again and turn on the car with the MAF disconnected and it turn on and shut off after 3-4 seconds then I figure it out by measure the voltage from behind the connectors getting through a crack on it, that's why I want to know this time what should I expect from doing what you indicate me to do.

Thanks!

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

the fuse is in the fuse panel in the car. pull it, start car, car should die shortly after wards.
change fuel filter, PUT FUSE BACK IN, start car (it may take a few cranks to start).

rmdl51

iTrader: (4)

Ok! Thanks that's what I need to know, I would try to do it later, unfortunately is dark now but I already get the MAF cleaner too so I'll be maybe doing that first, Thanks again I'll get back to all of you with some more info, I'll try to get those TPS-TCU readings finally.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

here's the pics of the inhibitor
http://s164.photobucket.com/albums/u...ranny%20stuff/
don't mind the spraypaint on the harness plug. I'll pop each terminal pin out sand off any paint that may have gotten onto the pins before i send it to you.

the hole lines up to indicate neutral. rotate the manual valve all the way counterclockwise (aka shifter in L) and unbolt the 3 bolts/screws (8mm socket is your best bet instead of a ghettofabulous 90degree screwdriver) and pull it to the left, down a little, at an "8-o-clock angle"

rmdl51

iTrader: (4)

All right, even in dark I was able to work a little bit on my car, I finally take out all intake tubes, filter, MAF and tranny is very reachable without all that stuff.

So caped, do you think with an 8mm socket I can unscrew the 3 bolts from top of the car and find a way out for the inhib sw? I guess that's why you indicate me to pull it to the left and down a little at an 8 o clock angle and that should be me looking face to face to the car. If I'm right that wasn't too hard to understand

I do have a "noob" question about inhib sw, what does it really do? I mean I know it prevent the car to start on gear but is there anything electrical on it? I see the plugs and I assume there are electrical/electronic components on the sw but from the picts it looks just like a mechanical lever, I'm just willing to understand the vital function of this inhib sw.

All right, besides cleaning the MAF and tubes I also replaced the distro cap and rotor (only this two for tonight) it was easier than I expected but after taking a look I do have the same question as before, the old ones seems to be in perfect condition, what's the purpose of this parts? the rotor on the end have a little white thing which in the old one is very yellowish, and the metallic end on the distro cap shows a little bit of black stuff like dust, I'm thinking this is because the spark from the ignition wires travels through this parts but oh well maybe this parts are good but I'm glad I did it because I'm learning.

Ok, let's get back to TPS, finally, after my back hurts like $hit I got a TCU reading:
Walt!!!! here's a little data: pin 34 and 48 I have 0.763v then I start pressing the gas pedal and got from 1.085v to 3.073v is that healty? I don't know what else should I measure I forgot man, sorry, I think pin 35 right? or pin 4 & 48 with the car on? I didn't start the car today I just make this reading clean my intake tubes and MAF, replaced distro cap and rotor and readjust again TPS.... BTW...

when I measure and potentiometer from TPS it gives me a nice reading of 0.880kohm up to 8.026kohm however when I install and adjust it, I measure again and ir starts the same at 0.880kohm and goes up to 4.0183kohm only is that ok? I mean I move the throttle as up as I can but I don't know maybe I need to measure again when I'm a little bit more rested.

All right guys! that's it for today, Thanks again for all the help

Wiking

??

Oooops I fell off the carriage.

Pls can u add some more explanation with pcs with arrows or whatever +plus+ use extra wording to get through my thick head...

I'd also like to use that Inhibitor sw picture...?

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

you can use the pic if you want to

the 8-o-clock thing is a way of indicating direction. If someone is "on your six" they're right behind you, and "hot mama, 12-o-clock" means there's a beautiful woman directly in front of you. 8-o-clock is mostly left but a little bit down/behind, as on a clock face.

thus, to remove the inhibitor, from the point of view of sitting in the driver's seat, you'd pull it mostly left (toward the tire) but a little but down at the same time, but mostly left, ie, 8-o-clock. Your english is pretty good but it's understandable if the o-clock stuff isn't commonly used among the english-speakers in your area. I learned it from an Indiana Jones movie (the Last Crusade, when in the airplane shooting at the enemies).




to RMDL

yeah just unbolt the 3 8mm bolts, unplug the harness plugs and get the wire free of whatever is on top of it (it was pretty easy to pull the wire away from the tranny's clips or w/e holding it in place) and pull the sucker out. when you put mine in, once installed tighten bolts loosely, position the manual valve arm (where the shifter cable connects) to N, then turn the inhibitor until the hole lines up exactly. From that point, put your car's shifter itself in N, and if the eyelet of the shifter cable itself does not line up exactly with the manual valve arm peg, then adjust the cable so EVERYTHING lines up dead-on in Neutral. That will ensure that everything is calibrated correctly. If that didn't make sense i'll figure out a less 'confuzean' terminology.

Wiking

Yes thank you. Have learned to watch the watch - still, cant see any beauties? Somethn inhibiting switchin to that view? Anyways, now happily on the carriage again... Lets work out the align pic.
............

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

well i can't do pics of the shifter cable adjustment, since, well, I don't use it anymore. I can take pictures of the adjuster but the cable is of course just laying on top of the tranny now. But i can slide it back into place and take a few pics of removal and alignment from the transmission-side, but the cable adjustment will be up to the viewer to figure out unless you want to crawl under your own car and take pictures of that.


missing piece of the puzzle:

lining up the yellow holes = neutral. for manual valve arm you turn it all the way clockwise then counterclockwise 2 clicks for neutral. the red holes are for adjustment of the position of the inhibitor. That's why you align the manual valve arm first, then rotate the inhibitor until the yellow holes line up perfectly and then tighten it down. then attach the shifter cable.

i'll get a pic of the manual valve arm stuff tonight.

Wiking

Now edited the cam... Case hole A. and cam hole B. have to be aligned (with C. ... coming)

This will make some sense.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

what will C represent?

(vvvvvvv haha this is no surprise)

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