okay, i put in a short ram intake in my car yesterday, and from schol to the ride home, everything is *****-nilly. and then this morning, i start her up, and as soon as i put it in reverse. it stalls. and on the highway on the way to school, periodically, when i hit the gas, its like i dont get any throttle. on the way home is when i experienced some major troubles. im drivin for about 25 minutes approx 65 mph, and then it starts to drastically lose power. i pulled over, and took a look. no flashlight, so i sed screw it, and tried to make it home. it took longer to get there since i couldnt go over 55.

PLEASE TELL ME MY MOTOR ISN'T HYDROLOCKING!!!!!!!

 

Wow I did a short ram on my old vg and I got nothing but POWER. I couldn't begin to tell you whats going on. I do want to know for future hp mods to my girlfriends car.

 

from wikipedia
its still spinnin, just not running well, so it isnt hydrolocked.

make sure everything is tightened properly? are all the vacuum lines installed properly? is the maf firmly connected?

 

It's not hydrolocking unless you managed to have your intake sitting in a bucket of water in your engine bay. You most likely have a big vacuum leak somewhere. Assure that the MAF is plugged in and the electrical connector is clean, if it isn't... use a stiff bristled brush and some electrical contact cleaner in the connections and spray the MAF sensor itself.

 

MAF's pluged in good, and i double checked all the lines and i figured that extra vent nxt to the pcv valve connection is open. may that possibly be it???

if it were, wouldnt it have started doin this monday aside from tuesday???

 

the thing with the "do not open hot" sticker next to it? that's your coolant bleeder... i know you probably have a few engine pics that you can mspaint a circle onto to show us what vent, if that isn't the one you're talking about.

 

no, on the intake itself. remember i modded the intake for a 90-93 accord to fit.

 

Short Ram? Do you mean Cold Air intake? Is it the IACV return line on the S pipe? That needs to be plugged in If not... Which one are you talking about?

 

i didn't put in the L pipe, i will in the near future though.

but yea, the iacv retirn line. to be safe, what wuld be safe to plug it with? dont wanna just plug it with anything.

pics coming later today

 

Don't plug it... Hook a vacuum line to one end, and the other to the IACV, it should have came with a long blue hose.

 

so what your saying is make the pcv nd the iacv line into one pcv line???

i guess so

 

Definitely not - the PCV breather inlet under the throttle body is there to allow air getting sucked into the engine and out through the PCV valve into he intake manifold. If you connect that and the IACV feed hose together (iso to an air feed) your operation of the IACV and PCV system will rely on each other ................ to the tune that the IACV will only work (pathetically at that) when you have a serious blowby problem because there simply is no air to shunt into the intake around the throttle - the PCV system operation will also get royally screwed as the PCV will no longer be the governing item for getting blowby into the intake in a controlled manner - the IACV will effectively suck a vacuum in the sump and then become useless

Both the IACV and the PCV system need a fresh and filtered air supply - ie - the reason for both sucking off the post air filter tube individually.

 

Well if I read what the OP did correctly (I think I did...) then his IACV line is currently NOT connected to his intake.

At least with my custom intake, my car wouldn't even RUN unless the IACV was hooked into my intake. As far as I know the IACV as to measure metered air (air ran past the MAF) for your engine to run properly.

If I'm wrong correct me...and if you are running your IACV into your intake...then I miss read the post.

Either way good luck...I still have a hell of a time with my intake every so often...its still just not perfect.

 

...pics...

 

Its nothing really fancy. My total bill for it is 60 bucks (give or take).







My engine bay is DIRTY. I need a nice new filter too...but this one works good for now!!!

 

clean your battery post too, those don't look healthy.

where in the pic is this vent you were talking about that is not connected?

are you sure its a vent and not a vaccuum line thats suppose to be hooked up to something?

 

They are cleaned...these pictures are about a year old.

And I'm not the OP...Wiking just asked for pics of my intake...so I posted them.

Didn't mean to thread jack...

 

Intake looks much better than stock. Good pics! thks.

 

It really is. Plus I get a really good flow of air from the stock piece I left on that wraps down in front of the headlight that was originally connected to the stock box.

My only complaint is now in the winter I need to rev my car till it warms up a bit other wise it stalls. But other than that, I love it!!

 

MAF sensor is very asthmatic to turbulence disturbances. My guess is that the filter disturbs airflow at low rpm, while it is efficient at higher flow. Test/disconnect filter at cold startup, then you'll know.

 

ah my bad

 

Hmm...I'll try that. Thanks!!!

I need to buy a new filter anyway...I'm just gonna go with an AEM dryflow. Hopefully that will help too since this filter is pretty OLD.

 

to the OP: We're all under the impression you're talking about the vacuum line drawn in green in the pic below... it is the only hose that should be attached to your intake, and it should go into the IACV.



If you are talking about something else, please specify, as you do not need to re-route or mess with any other vacuum lines on the lower intake manifold or throttle body.

 

Pearl93VE - there is in fact a second hose connected too - ie - the PCV system intake - its located under the TB going to the front valve cover feeding filtered and metered air to the crankcase and eventually PCV valve ............. hence my earlier comment

 

Right, but he should not have had to touch that in order to install his new intake is all I was saying

 

i bet you guys it's either the maf or he did'nt connect the iacv...but then he might've posted a loud sucking sound.

it's the maf i say let it sit and let the ecu adjust to it....

it's just that the thin wire inside the maf is'nt getting a chance to heat up so quickly so the ecu gets all loopy.

i like how yall intake setups are but i plan on doing it like that but instead of putting the filter right before the maf there's gonna be a pipe running on the other side of the battery too...

 

I had thought about it but there seems to be a good amount of cooler air that flows through the stock plastic piece that runs up between the driverside fender and the battery that originally connected to the stock air box.

 

i may be missing something but how will that fix his problem?

 

Agreed, but he also commented ............. and from there my original concern.

Seriously now - you do not understand the functionality and operation of the beast at all.

 

just gonna throw this out there, in a more simplistic sense.... pcv vac line is POST-TB, and IACV vac line is PRE-TB. meaning that the IACV is always at atmospheric pressure and the PCV hose pressure (vacuum) varies according to both manifold vacuum and subsequent operation of the PCV valve itself

yeah, because if just 'letting it sit, and letting the ecu adjust to it' would work... then why would the ECU have not already done this, why would it screw up halfway into a trip, and why would he have a problem in the first place?

 

I think we had this discussion elsewhere recently.

The PCV system has 2 lines - one drawing fresh filtered and metered air (when the engine has no significant amount of blowby) just below the TB (thus PRE-TB) going to the front valve cover ...............and a second coming from the rear valve cover to the PCV valve port on the rear of the intake manifold (POST TB) - ie both the IACV and the front valve cover PCV inlet ports in the inlet system system sits at near atmospheric pressure.

because that is not the way the ECU is treating/responding to the MAF. ................ the ECU unconditionally accepts the MAF's input as the current air mass low rate measured and adjusts the timing and fuel delivery accordingly ............... so if the ECU is expected to "adjust" to a funky MAf it will invariable only screw up the whole engine management system and as a result your driving experience as well as fuel economyThat is the clearest indication that you don't understand the operation of the MAF.

 

well yeah, that was when i was saying something about using mini breather filters instead of sucking all the blowby hose air through the normal intake tube. i was asking if diverting all the blowby air to an independent filter would cause the MAF to 'miss' the air that went to blowby, and for any reason, mess up the AFR because of it. reason i asked then, is because the metered blowby air eventually winds up in the IM, and therefore, becomes part of the stoiciometric equation.

but the PCV line i just mentioned is the one from the valve to the rear VC itself.

as for the MAF thing, i wasn't OP of that concept. but I was just questioning 92maxSE's assessment that if a car has a maf problem that "just letting it sit and letting the ECU figure it out" would be essentially 'doing nothing', and thus isn't really a solution at all.

 

What the hell do you mean by Hydralocking? Sounds like you left off a needed vacuum line somewhere on that intake system! Start it up and listen for some hissing or missing!

 

anyone else agree that if you have a re-usable air filter that you also spray
with filter oil(such as k & n brand etc.)on a car like ours that has the mass
air sensor right "behind"the filter that the oil can get sucked in and
coat the airflow sensor?* i,ve never done that but have heard about it

 

Yes - as a result you have funky and incorrect volume measurements and also slower than normal MAF response times.

Also - removing the OEM huge flat filter element and box and replacing it with a short pipe and a sorta cone filter may/can/do affect the flow characteristics (in addition to the supposed actual volume/pressure) through the MAF - you are slightly( only?) changing the flow direction/distribution across the MAF mouth and thus effectively changing the fuel mixture getting into the motor because of incorrect(?) air flow measurement

 

but on cars with 02 sensors, won't the ecu eventually "learn" what values are correct?

 

At least after ECU reset (30min batt off). Continuously? Dont know, guess not.

Edited then:

It will, 'THEN'... question is when is 'THEN'?

"Accordingly, a difference between the basic and theoretical mixture is quantitatively monitored in this system, it is 'then' computed in terms of "fuel injection duration" to automatically compensate for the difference between the two ratios." EF&EC 18.

 

I am with Wiking on this one for various reasons.

1. There is no need for an intelligent and learning ECU when you have an O2 sensor - the ECU compensates for funky unburnt(?) or too little fuel in the exhaust by varying the ignition and mixture parameters every time the O2 sensor is polled (output signal is measured) - so why bother with a fancy intelligent ECU when all you need is in fact a pre-mapped only ECU like we have here in South Africa to define a close to optimum and to be expected set of values? (and also save a lot of money in the production process)

2. Even if the ECU could learn about the disaster happening on the MAF sensor, what is it you really achieve? .................. if you cannot believe the output of the MAF sensor to be indicative of the air consumed by the motor, what other sensor on the car can you believe and use as reference for air consumed?

3. Even if the ECU could learn the degradation of the MAF output, it cannot possibly compensate for the changed rate of response caused by the dirt on the MAF's sensor.

and finally and most importantly :

4. If the ECU could indeed learn funky MAF behavior, you would surely not have people here on the board reporting them replacing MAFs to sort problems - even with O2 sensors on their vehicles ................... no?


Wiking - imo THEN is every time the ECU polls the O2 sensor

 

Then - Con fu Zen

The mentioned issue sits under header: "MIXTURE RATIO SELF LEARNING CONTROL"

This passage is such a mixture of japlish & religion, that almost any claim can be derived from it. My guess that the geisha compiling this txt, under big samurai sword, must have been really terrified, while having no knowledge of the issues related... The header implies that text belongs to compiling the compensation data into an empty TCU memory, not the feedback ctrl system. Then "Then" can be whatever... ref. EF&EC-18

 

well i meant if the MAF is functional but off by the same amount across the spectrum (reads 10% high always, reads 2cfm high always, etc). Now the ECU operates with a "standard" set of values when it the engine first starts, right? From there it makes adjustments as necessary. Will it continue using these "standard values" until closed loop? Or does it make adjustments even before this? What i was getting at was that even if the MAF was slightly off, that if it was reliably off, that the ECU would use the 02 sensor to check against, and after enough adjustments, would make a good AFR. But if the MAF is totally fubar'd, then yea, nothing you can do about it.

and the thing i don't like about the non-o2-sensor'd ECUs is just what you said about them - they operate great under an expected set of values. If something changes, it keeps pumping out the same pulses, right? Whereas a closed loop o2sensor based system would adjust for something like, say, 50psi of fuel pressure rather than the 40something spec by cutting back pulse times, whereas your ECU would just keep pulsing away right? Granted that anyone that knows how to maintain a car would probably catch the wonky fuel pressure before it went too long, but lots of people just don't care about it enough to fix it.

summary: i was talking about compensating for a skewed but reliable MAF signal, not an intermittent or randomly failing, or totally absent signal.