rmdl51

iTrader: (4)

Hello everybody! I know I've been absent for a while but I've been dealing with some personal stuff I have to take care of, and well I'm back to take care of my Maxima now.

To bring up the subject a little bit and for new people unaware of my previous problem here I go:

After the Transmission rebuild and the Engine swap with a JDM engine my car doesn't accelerate very good, once it pick up speed (about 35-40mph) seems to run little better, but flooring the car at WOT feels powerless from 0-25mph, which takes forever to move.

Now, after everybody advices and suggestions, I did clean MAF, as for advice from capedcadaver I replace PCV valve, distro cap, rotor, new fuel filter, replaced some cracked hoses also adjust and test TPS (works fine now) measure voltage at TCU and according to wiking is healty, and after all this my CEL is gone, I finally got a 55 from ECU.

Next step was taking my car to a couple of shops to get my Tranny diagnostic, I look around and asked a few places and got couple of free estimates, both diagnostics matches: Tranny is in perfect working condition! The problem is somewhere else

Those are the words from the guys at the shops which one told me he have no idea what the problem could be, and the other guy told me my problem is probably to be on the fuel lines, how accurate this could be?

I've been trying some other places to have my car checked but any place charges $80-$100 just for the diagnostic, and honestly I'm not willing to give away money to just end up with the same problem.

Now, it suprise me that nobody mentioned the inhibitor switch, I know is bad because car starts on gear, but none of this shops mention that, am I such a bad shop selector that both can be just morons willing to make some money for small problems and they don't want to deal with my car? at some point is good to hear Tranny is good and the problem (possibly) is not that big

For some reason I think I might have bad injector/s is this possible? I read another thread about this and I'm gonna try unplugging each wire to see how the car behaves as you suggest to that guy.

Now, Inhibitor switch you explain to me is just a set of switches that connects and disconnects and if this is related to Tranny I think this is not the direct cause of the acceleration problem, however I do want to fix that but I was unable to take it out, maybe I don't have the right tools but I even went to a junk yard and try to take out one there for practice and no luck. like I said before my mechanic knowledge is still very poor.

Lastly, if CEL is gone and ECU throws 55, it means everything related to the engine is good? or not necessary so? what should my step be? also just FYI exhaust still stinks terrible and steering wheel shakes terrible when on D

Thanks in advace for your help!

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

if everything is good, there will be no codes. if there are codes then something is wrong. HOWEVER just b/c there's no codes doesn't mean it's necessarily in the clear. the shaking in D and gassy smell DOES point to an injector problem.

as for the inhibitor it shouldn't be too tough to get off. What method did you try?

92gxe/cg2

iTrader: (2)

If acceleration is poor from 0-25 and not too much better afterwards your trans sounds like its in Fail Safe mode which is only 3rd gear. If so maybe the TCU is bad or somethings is wrong electronically hopefully thats it.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

we already verified that he isn't. he's had this problem for about 3 months now and he posted videos that showed him hitting 5800 at 40mph, which is definitely 1st gear on the VG-A/T

rmdl51

iTrader: (4)

I tried the inhib sw with a small ratchet but it won't fit, I even tried and angled screwdiver and no luck, maybe angle ratchet? but don't have one

Fail safe mode is what the "mechanic" that did engine swap and tranny rebuild mentioned but acording to this video everybody agree is not in fail safe mode:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M43M6r7cslU

So, I will try checking the injectors and let you know later...

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

a 1/4" drive ratchet and an 8mm (or 10? can't remember now) socket should do the trick... may be a tight fit but that should be enough

Wiking

Shakin hands transfer to the wheels?

Inhibitor sw swap, 8mm 'bolts':
- If 15$ mini wrench -set is too much, man takes it to tha 2000$ shop...
- Lots CRC, heating with gas flame will one day work through.
- U may hit/destroy the ol box & screws out (if u can figure out new scaffolding to hang the replacement on.)
- Perpendicular hit with a 'chisel' gives best hit.
- disconnect engine mount, raise tranny as far up as it comes
- ...drop the tranny

Injectors: listen, measure, take out & test per FSM

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

while all of those are spectacular methods of getting to the switch... wiking have you tried just the ol' ratchet and socket for him (to see if you can do it)? or some alternative method of removal? I can't rly try it since i don't rly have the a/t in m'car anymore. well to tell the truth my car doesn't have any tranny in it atm, b/c i'm waiting for that other one to get here to decide which one i like better.

Wiking

Its t here... "8mm:
- If 15$ mini wrench -set ... "

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

i figured he already had a simple socket set, such that there'd be nothing to buy. I've had one since like... before i had a car, actually.

Wiking

If theres a 8mm socket set, dropped tranny on the dirt ---> Then where is the problem in disconnecting the switch pack? U put the socket into 8mm, and turn, and it will turn. It will either break or come out... pack will drop. BUT. With worn, wrong screwdriver, no way...

However, if the attachment screws are already ruined, one needs smtg 'extra' - already explained 'my extras'. You can top that...

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

all he said was that he was unable to remove the inhibitor. he never said anything was stripped or broken. and he never said what tools he had, or what tools he tried to use. I was kinda hoping he would provide more details. if he provides details about it i may be able to tell him how to do it with what he's got. but using a screwdriver (angled or otherwise) is not really the way to do.

rmdl51

iTrader: (4)

Ok! Finally I check the injectors, I unplug one by one every spark plug wire and.... only the 3 rear ones seems to make the engine stumble when I unplug the cable, every time I disconnect one from the front the engine has no reaction at all!! so? this means my 3 front injectors are bad, clogged, disconnected, what?

Will a video help? I can shoot a video if that can help on the diagnostic

Damn! I just can't believe this retard install this injectors and said those where much better than my old ones,

So is it hard to take the injectors out? I'm glad I ask this ignorant mechanic to give me back my old injectors with the whole rail, that can give me an idea but I rather ask you guys about this:

what should I measure on the injectors? ohms? what's the normal reading? should they be taked out to measure them or can measure installed?

About that inhibitor sw, the ratchet I tried was too big and don't have a smaller one I'll try to find one or borrow one from a friend.

Wiking

You have 3 dead cylinders. Can be:
- no spark (cap, wires, bosch plugs ... try testing each wire with spare plug, ground it on engine, peek for spark)
- no juice (injectors, injector signal missing, fuel flow blocked)
- no air (a horse has crept inside intake?)
- massively leaking mechanically (valves, pistons)

Injector 10-14 ohms. Again: Do LISTEN for click. Click tells signal is there, injector coil is about ok = no need to measure resistance.

Videotime later?

rmdl51

iTrader: (4)

All wires are brand new NGK, I believe they are ok but when I take out every one I notice when it was close to the plug I can hear "clicking" so I think there is spark.

Sorry if I don't understand everything my friend but... where do I start? injector 10-14 ohms... do I need to take it out? maybe is a dumb question but I never done this before, do you have a write up or a link to one about how to do that step by step? maybe a picture, because if I need to take an injector out I have no idea how to do that.

Wiking

The click implies theres a spark. I cant believe three plugs would be dead simultaneously - but then I cant believe this whole story... man, youre a fighter! Swapping plugs from rear to front would make that 100% sure. Do that if all else fails... If you have not seen new plugs installation, with your own eyes fixed on the new plugs during installation, everything can be found there

I know for sure that four Bosch plugs can die ALL TOGETHER altogether after ten miles... Make sure no Bosch!Another issue is that all this crap history may have filled the plugs with crap - they are dead. Only visual inspection will ensure wassup. Check em before taking out injectors.

The last sound: bosch...
see http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/12


NGK wire is among the best, even contains one hair thin "real" wire

Measuring injector is straightforward: plug out, ohms scale, gauge probes on pins. Injector stays on place... Compare results with the working ones.

That still doesnt still tell about how/if ECU drives them... LISTENING will give ALL that info: again: take long screwdriver, place it on injector, idling, listen the working ones first. Ear on handle. Do they click? Go through all. Trblshooting procedure is explained in the FSM, read that... EF&EC 115

1-to-6 music: WASSUP?

Replacing injectors wont help if ECU doesn't deliver signals, or harness is broken. Only repairing the fault will help... I cant believe three injectors, behind common harness, plan to make a mass suicide, all simultaneously. Maybe just connector plug open? Ground wire loose? Plug F16 - injector sub harness near pwr valve; see Engine Control Harness FSM EL-178

There are writeups for injector replacement (where there?), also FSM tells wahattodo EF&EC 151.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

just because the injector is clicking does not mean it is working correctly or within electrical specs.
if you have a whole bank not functioning, I would look for a common element and check that.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

now keep in mind that the front 3 injectors on a VG have that same plug... it's just behind the EGR pipe. if that harness is unplugged then voila. runnin' on 3. also check that plug for corrosion. specifically it's a 2x2 plug with brown/green solenoids to the right, IACV hose to the left.

Wiking

No it isnt. FSM suggest to take out distributor, turn it while ACC ON. Listen. ...thats useless exercise.

When click is heard, one may be quite sure that ECU is fully conscious and in charge, injectors have coils capable of moving nozzle core. Harness has to be mostly ok...

Next step by FSM is to take system out on the floor and see how pressurized nozzles work...

As said, check Plug F16 - injector sub harness near pwr valve; see Engine Control Harness FSM EL-178

maximaman1313

Ok I skimmed through the posts fast, but just watched that video...I notice that when you very first start the car. It does not get into warmup mode or whatever....It looked like you had to rev it to get it up to 1k and it just idled from there. my car starts to about 1500 for maybe 5-10secs then slowly drops a few hundred rpm's.

And when your stopped, foot on brake, and car in D. that noise seems like maybe a bad motor/tranny mount? it shouldn't vibrate that bad. maybe when it was put back together something wasn't aligned up how it was before and the vibration of it being stopped but in D is causing maybe the exhaust to hit something? I had a problem like that when I swapped my motor for a JDM. for some reason my warpseed 2.5" exhaust would vibrate against the heat shield above cat converter. Had to tweak the exhaust just a tad and it fixed it.

I also notice at the end of the video when you put it in park and go to get out...the car is warmed up but the idle jumps to 1500 and stays there...I know mine would randomly do that and it was the TPS harness being corroded. I know you said you've checked it and its up to spec, but I don't know what else would cause it to idle that high once warmed?

question..around the 5min or so mark you it looks like you got some open road...were you at WOT? It sounded like your motor was putting out the power. but it wasn't, that was very slow if you were at WOT


You have a reliable shop do your injectors? you use new injectors? remans? old JY injectors? From you saying the front 3 didn't change the motor when you pulled them, like capedcadaver said, check that 2x2 harness that controls the 3 front injectors for corrosion or being disconnected. If its not either of those. maybe the bottom o-ring on those 3 injectors got torn up when installed. I had big problems with those o-rings and went through 9 in one day because I got them at autoparts store. went and got 3 dealership o-rings and worked perfect.

maximaman1313

Not sure about on the VG motor, but isn't there a ground wire specifically for that 2x2 harness that goes to the 3 injectors? maybe it wasn't connected back up?

IIRC on the VE for the 2x2 harness for the back 3 injectors there is a ground that goes to the IM

Wiking

That is smtg I elaborate up there: "...Maybe just connector plug open? Ground wire loose? Plug F16 - injector sub harness near pwr valve; see Engine Control Harness FSM EL-178..."

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

yes and no. you are correct about the wiring except you have the polarity backwards. the common wire is a 12v hot-when-ign-on wire, and the individual wires back to the ECU are grounds. but yes one of those 4 wires is a common wire, and is a valid cause of a totally dead front bank.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

signal recieved does not mean signal functioning fully at recieving end. injector will still click even if only opening 5% instead of 100%

rmdl51

iTrader: (4)

Ok, I'm a little bit lost here... let me see if I understand my next procedure

caped, the plug you are talking about 2x2 you mean 2" by 2" or 2x2 pins? I haven' take a look at my car yet (I'm at work) so probably it will be easy to figure it out, but what am I supposed to check? let's say it's connected and it's has no corrosion, should I measure something there?

maximaman, yes I was at WOT at approx 5:10 at the video, the injectors currently on my car are the ones from the JDM but the "mechanic" that ripped me said those injectors were in much better shape than my old ones, anyways I still have the old ones.

wiking, what is the plug F16? I haven't looked a the FSM yet but I will once I get to my place, so maybe I figure this out too by myself but I rather ask in case I got confused with the FSM, then you suggest me to put a flat screwdiver over the injectors to hear a clicking sound right?

Internetautomar, clicking on the injectors at least will let me know for sure there is communication between the injector and ECU right? no matter if it's at 5% or 100% at least will make sure there is communication then I'll take care of the performance of each injector... does that sound right as a procedure?

Ok everybody, thanks a lot for the help, I'll update in a few hours, I need to read FSM and check my car for those plugs... I'll take out the spark plugs and check them, mechanic said he used NGK, let's see how far this liar went... how about that huh? a person who calls itself mechanic and wasn't able to get rid of a CEL and didn't noticed 3 spark plugs are not working.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

2x2 pins



if ANYTHING is out of the ordinary then tell us what you find. bent stuff, corrosion, burnt stuff, stuff missing... anything weird. that's also where you test the resistance of the front 3 injectors.

rmdl51

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for the picture! that makes it a lot easier! checked the FSM and find it but cannot picture that on the car phisically but right now I got it! I'm working right now at it! update in a minute...

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

sounds about right

rmdl51

iTrader: (4)

All right! Done! I measured according the FSM 2-8, 4-8, 6-8 and here are the results:

2-8 = 12.5ohms
4-8 = 17.4ohms
6-8 = 12.5ohms

is that 17.4 really bad? the range should be 10-14 right? so...more resistance means the injector is clogged?

now, back to the spark plugs I took out all 6 plugs and the 3 front ones (cylinder 2-4-6) are exactly as I just purchased from the store, brand new! and the rear ones shows some burn but weird, actually I don't know if it's normal (pictures in a minute) but if I only got one bad reading from the injectors, how come I got three spark plugs not working at all, well, there's spark... wait... I hear clicking but... how do I make sure, I don't want to go guessing around...

No corrosion at injector connectors, (picts in a min) so, what's next? swap the spark plugs? front-rears, I hope this info helps a little bit

rmdl51

iTrader: (4)

pictures:

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

just swap one of the plugs for now... if you are running on 1-3-5, then swapping 1 for 2 will make you be running either still on 1-3-5 or on 2-3-5, and those would sound different. also keep in mind that you need to check the wires and cap as well. what's the resistance of your front spark wires, compared to your rears?

hey i have another idea

start the engine with that harness unplugged. see if it behaves differently than it usually does

just don't leave it on too long.. if it's different you'll know right away

o and btw both of your vacuum solenoids (powervalve and EGR) are cracked.

also can you get a pic of the female end of that plug? maybe the pinjackets are loose and need to be made tighter (so it feels like the first time haha). o wait i missed that other pic post haha.

rmdl51

iTrader: (4)

rmdl51

iTrader: (4)

the plugs, right is from the rear ones and left from the front ones


Why not leave it on too long? is it risky?

rmdl51

iTrader: (4)

female plugs and another crack I found around the distribuitor

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

no reason to subject the engine to unnecessary vibration and stuff. plus running with unplugged injectors causes ring damage, i've heard. and reread my "just swap one plug" post b/c i consolidated 2 posts into 1 so you may have missed a few lines as i was editing.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

wait a sec. are you MISSING A FREAKING WIRE?! i only see 3! i could have sworn there should be 4 there on that female-side......... lemme go verify this on mine.

and what crack by the distro? that single-wire plug thing? that is just the rubber jacket torn it's just to keep moisture out.

rmdl51

iTrader: (4)

You know what! I notice that right away! I was like... "hey WTF!! I'm missing one cable" but I tought..."nah..if it was broken it should be somewhere around here" but I don't know man! please..please... check yours I wish it was just a cable like this!

Now that I think twice, if there's supposed to be no connector then why in this world will nissan put four pins on the male side?....ummmm.....

BTW, vacuum solenoids cracked... which ones? are they really bad? didn't notice, actually don't know how bad, can see some cracks but don't know how bad

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

while i'm out there go ahead and post what the wire color/stripes are that you DO have on that plug

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

the green and brown one 2 inches from the injector plug thing

rmdl51

iTrader: (4)

but...it's just the rubber... will that cause malfunction on those solenoids? do you think is a smart move to replace those? but that's within the whole harness right?

ok I'm out for a minute to check those cable colors