1993-VG30E-GXE

What is the solvent that the starter refurb guys use to make the metal look brand new again? Some sort of acid?

I've been using Varsol but I don't think it works too well to remove rust from bolt heads.

1993-VG30E-GXE

These were a ***** to get out for me and one is stuck completely stripped into a round hole where the hex goes.

When I put the new ones in, is it safe to grease them? Or could the grease seep into the engine somehow.

By the way, I tried to put a tsp of motor oil around this stubborn bolt, and I noticed it seemed away probably down the hole. Where will this oil trickle down to? This was on Hex Bolt #1 (of the 11).

Wiking

Threads like em grease. Its good practice.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

media blasting (if you are lucky) and spray paint.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

Anti-Sieze is what you want, not just any old grease.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

1. Anti seize is your friend. that's what it's made for.
2. rust must be chemically removed with acid or mechanically removed with a grinder. Varsol will not remove rust- only grease.
3. please don't post two threads this similar.. just put them both in one thread.

1993-VG30E-GXE

Thanks man - by the way I can view your site now. The page looked empty, but now I found the link.

1993-VG30E-GXE

I've removed all the hoses. They were a MAJOR pain to get off.

Now I'm stuck at the last step. I removed the rear bracket for the control wires from the upper intake collector, as well as the bracket on the top with the two bolts.

Now this is the only thing left connected keeping me from lifting the whole thing out of the car. Note that I did the removal as per the FSM for servicing the Fuel Injectors - I didn't separate the throttle body section (to prevent me having to replace that gasket) from the upper intake - as some people have done, instead I removed all those hoses like the Air Cut & Vacuum Gallery.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

cruise is easy. pull throttle to WOT, and once the wire can slip into that little slit, just pull it out the side. on the main throttle cable, you do the same thing, but first you have to bend that little retainer up like 1/8" and slide it out from there, then finish the same way as CC cable.

1993-VG30E-GXE

Thanks bud - you saved me at the last second. Got it all off, but those little hoses on the fuel rail are the WORST nightmare to get off. I had to cut them off with an Xacto blade, they wouldn't get past the bulge.

1993-VG30E-GXE

I notice the Anti-Sieze is made of fine metal particles. Are you sure this would be safe on the upper and lower manifold bolts? When I removed the lowermanifold, the bolts were well oiled with no rust....they were soaking wet. If they had that metal anti-sieze stuff, couldn't it seep into the engine?

1993-VG30E-GXE

The upper collector is coated in a fine black sludge....is this engine varnish?

I guess the seafoam never really removed that stuff...but anyhow, now is the time for me to clean it, so how do I do it? And can I use the same chemical to clean the gaskets (the gaskets don't look dirty by the way).

I have Varsol & Methyl Hydrate (Methanol) around. The Methyl probably wouldn't do much. Should I buy something else?

Also, I took it off with the throttle body still attached, and I don't want to remove it or else maybe gasket purchase...so whatever I use to clean the upper will it seep into this other section and cause harm. It may not be able to dry out since limited air.

Wiking

That is oil, having been sucked from valve cover / plenum pipes. I guess Seafoam cleaned it all right... Will be there after horses run again, making plugs dirty. This silly configuration is nowadays in all cars...

U can use alcohol or gasoline for cleaning. Methyl alcohol is real poison, spoonful may kill. Do cleaning in well ventilated place. It will dry out...

1993-VG30E-GXE

I hear you on the danger of Methanol...I read somewhere that even 4 mL into your mouth can make you blind. Also, if you don't know (and they don't even tell you on the bottle), if you get any on your skin, it absorbs right into your liver and converts to formaldihyde. I'm pretty sure it's banned in some parts of the US.

I was foolish years ago when I was young...I used to use this stuff all around the house and I washed my hands in it numerous times. Now I use Solvex Nitrile gloves to handle it.

I probably already damaged my liver!

Wiking

Use wipers & washer and inhale. Even deliver smting to the BMW behind...

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

1993-VG30E-GXE:

I merged all your threads concerning your intake manifold questions into one (1) thread. There is no need to start a new thread for every little question involving the removal on the intake manifold, please refrain from starting any more threads on this subject.

Thanks..

1993-VG30E-GXE

I don't know how good though the methanol is for removing grease but I'll try it. Now onto the hoses.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

it will be safe, the particles help keep an accurate torque reading on stuff that needs torquing.

1993-VG30E-GXE

Do you know how the grease on the threads affects the torque readings? Does it allow over or under tightening?

I was talking to a guy at an industrial fasteners supplier, and he was telling me most torque specifications are for 'dry torque'...with nothing added.

I notice the anti-sieze comes in a stick...like chap stick? Or a little can with a small paint brush...which do you prefer?

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

paint brush

traxtar944

iTrader: (12)

You can buy it at car quest. It's a little silver bottle with a screw on cap with built in brush. Use gloves when handling it, and try to do as many bolts at a time as possible, because ANY that gets on your gloves and hands will transfer to any surface you touch, and it's a pain to get out, lol. So if it gets on your gloves then change them before handling a tool, or the next time you use it you'll have anti-sieze on your hands. Trust me I know from experience.