Is this one of those parts that isn't necessary to replace until it fails (unlike the timing belt).

If the oil pump dies, does the oil lamp indicator go on immediately? And can I still drive the car for awhile?

 

Its the 'last' piece to go. I've never replaced in any engine...

U may buy, attach oil pressure gauge and watch how it goes. Healthy pressure is very important, thats why there is a warning light.

If pressure drops out, you have 'five miles to go' - to engine swap. The light may also come/stay on if wire shorts, the pressure switch is blocked or broken, happens sometimes.

 

5 miles to go? What if I was in the Adirondaks (my favourite place by the way..Lake Placid & Keene Valley) I'm SCREWED.

Should I just replace it?

By the way, good news I found an invoice from 2 yrs ago - I had the water pump & alternator replaced. Sure I probably got suckered and got refurb...but it's better than nothing right?

I'm doing the radiator and rad hoses this week.

Wiki - do you know where the SWIRL CONTROL VALVE is? Also, what is the hose directly under the CARBON CANISTER?

 

Be happy. I am just wondering if to replace my pump on next belt swap... I think I'll wait it out...

Generally: Oil light comes on, stop immediately, call tow truck.

For me, its yapping women logic, get dirty time

Canister Hose Pics Pls?

 

it isn't necessary to replace until it goes, but once it goes you need to realize that your engine has already sustained damage. going 100ft with a bad oil pump (no oil pumping) causes permanent damage immediately.

 

If I was doing a complete engine rebuild I'd replace it. If I was doing a re-ring & bearing job I probably wouldn't unless it tested bad or questionable. In general, the oil pump SHOULD last as long as the car so it doesn't normally need replacing.

The oil light itself will typically come one when pressure reaches dangerously low levels. I've seen lights that come on solid at 20 lbs and lights that only start to flicker at 5 lbs. This usually happens when idling, not when driving. If you're oil light is on while driving and the sensor isn't bad then you have more serious problems.

If the oil pump actually dies (as in, stops spinning and pumping ANY oil) you're doing serious damage immediately. This is a rare failure mode for street driven cars though. Usually what happens is the main and rod bearings wear to the point where the pump can't keep the pressure up unless it spinning fast enough. So the light flickers or stays on at idle and goes out while driving. Usually a re-ring & bearing job will get the tolerances back close enough to have good oil pressure even at idle without replacing the pump.

 

True, the pump 'never' fails. Its the press drop because of some other part in the pressurized system fails causin nolube...

A busy nessman told me: "...yes I saw the red light come on. But as I was busy, I didnt let the pedal. As it happened, five miles later......"

 

so that's part (or all) of the reason how come there's multiple thicknesses of bearings, right? so that depending on wear you can match it thicker to compensate to retain oil pressure..

heh, i've heard some people just call it the "oh shhit light"

 

The part that hasn't been mentioned yet is that the oil pressure switch could be the problem. If it's clogged with debris or simply failed, the light can/will come on.

remove the oil pressure sending unit and screw a gauge in there. start the car and see what happens. If you have pressure, replace the switch/sending unit. If no, then kiss the engine goodbye.

 

Sorta.
different thicknesses of bearings are made so that you can machine the wear surfaces on the crank. since the crank is then smaller, you need thicker bearings to take up the space.
It's also done to account for manufacturing tolerances during machining. the crank is just ground round and "close" to the proper dimensions, then the thing is mic'd (measured) and bearings are installed to fill the clearance.

 

In your original post you really never stated that the oil pressure light was on... you appeared to only be asking a question! What's up?

 

Thanks everyone. No - the oil light never came on, in fact I've never seen it come on ever. The reason I was asking, is that I have stuff open right now, so I thought for not that much more labor, I could just do the pump...even though 'could just do' may be an understatement.....I'm not sure how accessible it is, have to check the manual.

 

Then there somewhere is a problem: it should be on always w/o pressure. Like ign ON, engine off... Switch broken, connector out, wire cut, bulb burned, sight impaired or statement off?

 

OK, so this means all is good then,....the light not on.

By the way I notice under LC-4, there is a test procedure on the oil pump, with a feeler gauge.

 

Again, I don't have experience with the internals of THIS (Nissan 3.0L V6 - VG/VE/VQ/V whatever) engine, but if it's like other engines I've done you pretty much have to have the engine out and on the bench or stand to get to it.

 

read post #13.

 

I did, but I didn't catch on what he meant.

But basically:

LIGHT OFF - Good (As long as indicator itself isn't broken)
LIGHT ON - BAD

 

he asked if the light comes on when you turn the key on but don't crank, it. if the bulb is burned out, or the light does not come on under that condition then you have problems too. meaning that if the oil light DOES come on you'd never know. because it's burned out or has a broken wire or w/e.

 

Good u patched up my gibberish... thks.

--> When engine is OFF.

----> Ignition key turned to ACC.

= ALL warning lights must come ON. Every time. This is the time when driver responsibility sets in: You have to check that all lights work. If not checked, keep at least cell phone loaded and tow truck number at hand...

 

yep. i can't tell you how freaked out i was when my temp gauge stopped working! i had no clue what the temperature was. the gauge would flutter under WOT once it got to about 4500rpm. turns out that at that rpm at WOT there was enough engine vibration to where it shook the sensor terminal loose of the sensor body... so i had to buy another one. peace of mind is always a good thing to have.

 

OK Cool thanks wiki - i get it now. If anything alerts me I'm sure you'll hear about it through here. Cars still going to be down for another week. Ordered the new Rad. and those molded hoses.

 

They gauges used to be the capillary pipe, gas filled type, 'pressure gauge' [eh, here we are again in the LOAD signal sector...]

These were always lea king = a king u dont want to meet , no peace but s itting on butterflies.

So had to learn to get by w/o gauge: as long as cabin heater blows hot, u can drive. When it stops, you'll stop after one minute - or immediately. Cabin heater also work as extra cooler [like: when Morris Mini own mini rad overflows...]

 

I'm trashed again......girls up sleeping so time to productive things with the car... Wiki are you a techno guy? As in techno music? Did you live through the rave scene in your time...massive in europe?

 

I am King's son, brains in bits an pieces. Tech no bits wont give peace but The King will

I was hiding in the woods when ey came an captured me: sailing aimlessly since then as a captive.

But yes, been filling capillary temp gauges with vacuum/gas as young lad in the steelworks. Gettin trains tecno brains rollin... Tech No Silence is My Music: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/17

 

YOU = ACID