where can i find one for a legit price???


i need one like asap, i have a mean exhaust leak, and it may be comin from the manifold.

 

It's coming from the broken studs. You'll need new manifold gaskets, Z car manifold studs, washers and nuts. Do all 12 while you're doing it. If you don't, the old studs you didn't replace will just break and you'll have to do the whole job again.

As for tools, a right angle drill or drill adapter and a set of left twist drill bits will come in REAL handy to remove the broken studs. Left twist drill bits cut while turning left which means they have a tendancy to unscrew the broken stud as you're drilling into them. When you use normal right hand twist bits you're actually tightening the studs up as you drill into them.

You'll also want a good set of jackstands because you're going to be lying on your back, under the heaviest part of the car for a weekend.

 

as shoult said, it's probably just a broken manifold stud or 2.
it usually makes a putting sound.
if it's a more constant sound then it may be a bad flex pipe section.
if it is the manifold studs and you've left it alone for too long it is possible that you warped the manifold in which case you will need to replace it.
of course there is always the posibility that it's just a gasket, but that usually doesn't make much noise.

 

I've been getting that putting sound for a few months now and I was feeling those bolts, and I notice one of them is gone on the front. I have no idea how it broke, since nobody has serviced the exhaust, but i'll try what you guys are saying.

Is the flex pipe section that metal weave/braid looking thing after the header pipe? Part of the weave is hanging down...I don't know if theres an actual hole....could this be the putting sound too?

 

they break over time from vibration and heat. they get brittle from heat, and eventual vibration breaks them. my car is missing 2 on the front bank, and the ypipe flange had one strip out and that's also on my front bank.

 

This studdy reality hit me yesterday: front RH bolt was 'loose' ... and dropped when 'tightenin'

I had been hoping my max already had the better studs. For this one there is a temporary fix (I saw already used on my 250k rusty). There is a spare stud hole just above the manifold: screwing a new stud, using big oversize washer, the leak will have to survive until the pleasure weekend arrives... I have to take pics an post this russian fix.

Also - needs the org linky for this swap job with the big terror pics. If I remeber right, to access, the engine has to be lowered, tilted for the rear?

 

I know in the front bank I could fit air tools to do the job...the rad and fan assembly is removed right now, but I was under the car the other day, looking at the rear bank, and if one those rear ones snaped when I take them off with the impact wrench, how is it possible to fit a drill in there, let alone keeping it still and aimed correctly so you don't drill the threads. Even the 90 degree angle drills didn't seem like they would fit.

Some guy told me to use an Air Chisel to get broken exhaust studs out..but all I could find was an "air scribe"....too expensive though $500.00 or more.

Is an air drill just as good to remove studs?

 

Also, does anyone have the spec on the bolts? I take it these are standard metric coarse thread fasteners?

 

do you have a hoist and a stand? if so it would be just as easy to yank the whole engine, that way, less risk for having to wonder if you are getting it out or not. I had enough trouble with my front studs when I was just trying to drill them out (radiator was out). Granted all i had was an RH drill and RH bits, so i could have done better with LH stuff, but even so, I didn't get either of my broken ones out, my manifold is probably warped now, so if the studs were intact on the tbelt'd motor, I'll have to steal the manifold off it instead.

 

They have to be hardened. I need also the specs for the steel quality; I am not going to stealership...

T here is at least one exhaustive great linky for the stud operation. I hope smbdy opens that info...

Here's the yellow temp fix for one missing end bolt:

 

Oh boy. That is a terribles wordie... Its now eight = 8! yrs passed since I was in need to pull up my own engines... Yes, there is a queue in my car-age for those, lucky mee only for friends and sons.

Positive side would be renewing all seals, hosing. $$$.$$

Pullin up would mean all the crap with axles etc. Dont want to go that positive again.

Edit: not that this babble hlps anybody here but last engine own swap was actually 14 yrs ago, my RV 1800lb Perkings 5.8D engine/tranny... I am, am I, more luckier than my feelings? But yes, always smbdy pullin this and that in my car-age... feelings are much better when its your friends engine: u can always smile and say down there: "dont worry, buddy..."

 

It's not that hard to in the car! Get that cross member out the way! new hardware gaskets, and some anti-seize, hell of a party! Oh yeah, be patient!

 

...I always wonder that exclamation mark ... is it 5feet jump in the air?

I am a patient: Sick of anxious studs... maximized patience needs help from above.

 

IIRC, the only thing I had to do when replacing the rear was remove the crossmember. Then I used a right angle drill and left twist drill bits. That gave me enough room.

Doing all 12 took me most all of a Sat/Sun with the front bank taking 3-4 hours and the rear the rest.

 

You WANT to use left twist drill bits! REALLY!

If your air tools can spin in reverse then a right angle air tool SHOULD work. But you REALLY, REALLY want to use left twist bits!

The reason is that they have a tendency to unscrew the broken studs as you're drilling into them. (lefty, loosey). If you use regular right twist bits they do the opposite and tighten them (righty, tighty).

Harbor Freight (http://www.harborfreight.com/) is your friend when it comes to seldom use tools. A right angle drill (I got this one (95877-1VGA) on sale for under 30) is under $35 there. You can get a right angle adapter (92188-5VGA) for under $15 and the left twist bits (38180-4VGA) are under $6.

What ever you do, make sure to keep the drill bit cool by spraying it with some sort of lubricate often.

To remove the stud that are still whole, use the double nut method.

 

Just get them from Nissan. The whole hardware set was under $20 at my local Nissan dealership. I'm sure Courtesy (or whoever is the hot mail order dealer now) could get them to you for a little less.

 

Do you remember what size bit you used (left hand type).

Dealership is a scam here..they wanted $4.00 per plenum bolt...so I found them at a supplier for .80 each and they are stronger than the originals. I wonder if the original manifold bolts are the hardened type...I know the plenum bolts weren't...just regular grade.

 

Yes the ideal size would be good to know; by guess I'll try to get 6mm. And then the steel grade.

Its bad business to buy with 0.04 and sell with 4.00. ... By Micro$oft standards at least: they don buy anything and sell that for 100.00 with no liability whatsoever.

 

Drilling out the broken off studs is not precision work. Basically your just trying to sink a hole as near to the center as you can, that is as nearly inline with the stud as possible. The idea is that you leave enough meat so that you can then use an easy out in the hole and turn the stud out. The kit of LTDB that I bought had 4 bits. I started the holes with one of the smaller bits and drilled in about 5/8". Use a piece of tape wrapped around the bit to mark it at 5/8". Once I changed to the next size bit up all of my broken studs backed out while drilling before I got to the 5/8" mark on that bit. While I had my easy outs ready, I never had to use them, and to me that's a GOOD thing. Nothing like breaking off an easy out in a hard to reach space. I'd look to see which bits I used, but I'm not where my tools are.

Like I said before, my local dealership sold me the entire hardware setup (12 studs, washers and nuts) for under $20 (I still have the receipt until later today). No guessing about whether the right size, hardness or anything.

In steel, more hardness isn't always a good thing. The harder steel is, the more brittle it is.

 

Question: If I am dropping the cross member to replace engine mounts, should I replace exhaust manifold studs at the same time even if they are not yet broken? Would it be easier to remove if they are not broken, or will they break if I try to remove them?

 

It's a good time to do it, but there's no telling when or if YOUR studs will break. There's also no telling whether they'll break if you put a wrench on them. The no telling if they'll break if you look at them wrong. It's a crap shoot.

But it is a good time to do them if you have the cross member out.

 

it is NOT the studs. me and my boy ran some smoke thru it, and discovered not only is the leak coming from the y pipe, but also the rear manifold, and its NOTHING little.

so i DEFFINITELY need replacements

 

Interesting. I haven't seen any body with a cracked manifold before. Crapped out flex joints in the y-pipe, yes. Blown out manifold to y-pipe gaskets, yes. But not actual manifolds being cracked on a Maxima. Since you have a VG I'll defer to someone with more experience with the VG manifolds.

I will suggest that if you have to pull the rear manifold to replace it, that it's an excellent time to replace ALL the studs (front and back).

 

back to my original question...............

where can i get headers for a great price????????

 

i've got some spare stock manifolds if you want them. depending on shipping costs tho, you may be better going to a JY for them.

 

you can't.
the only VG headers out there are Pacesetter and they're absolute crap. everyone that's installed them wound up taking them off again and going back to stock.

 

the rear manifold is available aftermarket, but I would personally just pick one up at a junk yard AFTER checking it with a straight edge. if yours isn't that badly warped you can probably just gasket it up to seal.

 

how much for both shipped to 08360???

 

a) pm
b) i'd have to get those farkers weighed and priced for shipping before i can tell you. courtesy nissan has them listed at 8.1lbs apiece.

 

8lb sounds about right.
I'd figure 10lb each after packing them up...
shouldn't be too much to ship.
but at this point, please take it to PM.

 

sure did wish i could find a set for my car

 

You can find a new kit...the front & back are available.

 

Where then??

 

what exactly are you looking for again? the dude you're asking to reply has been banned, finally, so he won't be of much help to you. front and rear manifold?

 

yea. manifolds, and y pipe.

 

hahahahahaha.. don't have a ypipe. not a spare one anyhow (if you saw my 'spare' ypipe you'd laugh too... it's .. erm... a v pipe now... with the tail stil attached to the cat flange!) manifolds I do have, but cannot verify the trueness of the mating surface yet... will be able to this week... currently dismantling my 89se5.

 

try www.car-part.com

 

well, after further investigation, IT WAS a stud. some mechs are dumb these days. so how exactly can i do it without warping my block, and without giving a local auto shop mechanic $1200 to do so, YES, i said $1200????

 

There's FAQs all over the place for exhaust stud replacement.

 

thanks matt.

back to the price. $1200. i'd say close to 200 after reading that FAQ.

what about you.

remember, for ONE stud