what about the other studs that break in the process...?

 

Find a new mechanic, or do it yourself.

 

yeah you should definatly do all the studs replace all the gaskets and seals around them and for $1200 you could replace the entire exhaust from headers to muffler intake and exhaust mods are definite DIY

 

Pacesetters headers lack hardware safety provisions so they tended to always have an exhaust leak due to the hardware loosening due to engine harmonics. These folks hate Pacestter cause 1 or 2 people got bad sets from a distributor and could have simply returned due to lack of satisfaction and either get another set or their money back!

 

I consider anything I can do (hence "Do It Yourself"), but last time I checked, an exhaust needs to be welded together, and most of us cant weld... at least, I can't, yet.

 

Yeah, I tried to arc weld and never got any good at it since I had to wear a really protective welding helmet and couldn't see anything I was doing. I was working on my oxyacetylene welding but I wasn't quite good enough at it to use a rod. I kept a piece of my practice metal and all of the beads are nearly perfect but as it's been said I used no rod.

When I get my Y-pipe and muffler my dad will be doing the welds whether he'd like to or not. I'm assuming he won't since he thinks Nissan engineers put in the best air filters, best exhaust and best everything on their cars. My dad doesn't know much about welding but he is a citrus farmer and constantly has to weld things together. My favorite project of his was a franken-mower, where he got 3 broken mowers (we are talking industrial ones that you pull with a tractor, not the little things you mow your yard with) and combined their parts into one mower. Worked awesome after he cut off the ends of the blades with the oxyacetylene torch since they were hitting the sides of the mower.

 

im in the middle of installing 12 new studs as well, the fronts are taken care of and now im working on the back. Does anyone have a tip on getting t he motor mount bracket off? i've been buying tools as I go along and cant figure out the sizing....

 

I believe the bolts that hold the mounts to the block are 14mm , the thru bolt that goes thru the donut should be taking out once you support the weight of the engine and remove the entire X-member. Get your 12, 14, 17, and 19mm sockets and wrenches ready, you may need a variety of extensions.

 

thank you much kind sir.

 

-im goin to try to use that Pro Grabit tool. i saw that dumb ad on tv, nd im gonna take a shot with it. i've bought 2 products that are classified "AS SEEN ON TV", the gator grip, nd Pop-A-Dent.Both work Like a Charm, so why not take a chance

 

do you have any experience with this site it seems incredible its got "part grade A" headers for $15 and about 100 different other prices is it a good site or has anybody ever used it?

 

ALL USED PARTS. WORKS FINE THOUGH

 

A mechanic down the street from me at PA Auto Service did this exact job, but TWO, broken studs.

These ****ers charged me $750 and made the thing worse. I think they made the broken stud break off into the gasket.

So basically they didn't fix it for good, the sound from the exhaust leak was 90% gone the first day, couldn't really hear it, but then after day 1 it was back again. Now its worse then ever ..so after a while now we have other mechanics. Even might sue the 1st mechanic that I said charged $750 because the other mechanics looked at it and said the work doesn't even look like it was done right, or done at all.

Ill post how much this new mechanics going to charge me for the job..

 

Try and get the exhaust manifolds themselves checked for leaks, besides the gaskets...

 

wow. was there any Vaseline?
take it back, make them re-do it for free. it isn't fixed, and they charged too much.

don't fork over more money because the d-bags didn't fix it.

 

You can fix the studs and go w/OEM exhaust manifolds or Aftermarket headers......

 

He wants me to sign a contract if he will work on it again for free, he is a ripoff. We might be suing him..

Another mechanic later on found the thing either untouched or not fixed at all when he seen it afterwords. So he is going to write up a report for us.

 

Pure shadetree. It's almost as if you need to SEE them actually putting stuff in. Sometimes I wonder when I pay for an injector replacement, are they actually putting in new injectors or just used JY ones.

 

So, is this worth it?
If my car would have to go to a machine shop, then replacing both
-Cylinder Head Gaskets (Both Banks)
-Exhaust manifold Gasket (Right and Left Bank)
-Head Gasket Set

This would cost me $1435.77. Is this worth it for my 93 Nissan Maxima with 242,000 miles on it

Also, if it wouldn't have to go to a machine shop, it would be only $322.77

I think he said if the bolt is broken into the exaust head or gasket.. broken off into something and he cant get it himself then it would have to go to a machine shop.

Please respond to this. Im thinking about selling my Maxima as is, and I dont even know how I should sell it for. Bought it for $2000, 10,000 miles ago.

 

please, one question, one thread, one time. i answered in the other thread.

 

damn $2,000 for a 93 Maxima with 232,000??? It better be the best damn looking and running 3rd gen at that price.

 

Yeah. Well it is decent looking. Look here: http://lancaster.craigslist.org/cto/1761074891.html

Thats me. Someone told me im underselling it though.

I may just keep the car and run it with the loud *** exhaust leak. Its loud when it has to climb to a certain speed using the gas pedal (Accelerating), but its kind of ok/quiet keeping it at the same speed.

So, I may just drive it with that sound and bolts missing off the gasket (Both rear and front)

And..yep. Bad idea or what.., someone told me older cars just get it and you cant really stop it, but that's a valve tap right? And thats not the same thing as an exhaust leak.. right?

 

You sir do not have a Maxima SE, that is a GXE. chrome grillle, chrome trim, color coded mirrors, no fog lights, no spoiler, GXE tail lights, GXE wheels, Active speakers which were more common on GXE

and I'm pretty sure although I cant see in the pic but you probably have the cool little keypad under your door handles and a VG30e under that hood. If so, you should fix your ad so you dont mislead people into thinking its an SE

 

I've repaired these things in an afternoon that were missing 4 studs on the front and three on the back. they can do it without pulling the heads. it's just a pain in the ****.

 

I had mine done back in 2006ish and the guy didn't drill anything at all. He welded bolt heads on the broken studs and unbolted them out of the block. I had all 18 replaced. Best 200 bucks worth of labor

 

Thank you for the correction earlier Colombian, and where did you get this done at for 200 bucks? Id love to get all my bolts replaced. Did he order special ones, or did you bring special ones to him?

Btw what specific car do you have? (Year and engine type)

 

I have a 93 GXE and the labor alone was $200, I brought in my own parts which were purchased OEM at the dealer. With a discount all 18 studs - 12 exhaust manifold and 6 y pipe, 2 gaskets and 2 ypipe seals came out to about $118.

I used to work at an autoparts store and some guy always came in to buy studs from us and I just decided to ask if he worked on exhaust or something and he explained that he did. So I had him do mine He still works around here in a shop near my house but doubt he has the welder needed at this shop..

oh and about the SE/GXE thing, sorry if I gave you bad news lol