Wiking

If KS finds ping, ign timing is adjusted. Thus bad KS itself wont cause hesitation - pwr loss yes. This pwr loss might surface other problems. At least test the feature with a 5MOhm R -bypass - or goto find a consult tester to diag-nose. the KS.

I put my €uros on Charge voltage at ECU, Groundings, MAF...

Wiking

Then sell the car to your worst enemy...

mofoaka

so what should i do instead? solder? would it hold under the engine heat?

Wiking

Best: Soldering, shrink wrap, sealed with self vulcanizing rubber tape. True, solder will not hold fire, theyll melt just after all wiring coatings, rubber hoses, plastic radiator etc have been charred - but then, will u ? care.

If you have to use pressed couplers, add in contact grease. Then shrink wrap, and/or self vulcanizing rubber tape. Here one problem is that the materiel will 'escape' under pressure and the joint gets loosened. Another is dirt + oxidation.

tv4184

iTrader: (1)

thanks wiking , i have done the latter suggestion you gave me and the hesitation is gone, idle is good; however it will sputter once in a while. fuel lines are tightened for now and not replace because i wanted to see if the injector harness was the culprit. as i suspected after inpection, it was. however, a new problem appeared. there is a waterpump leak. the radiator is emptying as i type. all maintenance will be postponed until waterpump leak is fixed or else i wont be able to test the car without coolant.


mofoaka

madmax571

HELP HERE>> since I canot post a new thread,I have a 1992 se 5 spd and my friend put in a new motor(used)and it idles at about 1500 rpm and started pinging on the highway in 3rd gear when I puched it(using premo)but I see my friend did not put a part on the new motor (cause it came out of a auto car) being the power valve actuator is this my problem what does it do anyway and what if any hoses go to it from what engine part??

Wiking

See that circuit here http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/3

I dont know why its called pwr valve - maybe bc there isnt any?

Air leaks (like missing hoses) cause high idle.

Wiking

...the *****? ...are screwed to adjust flow. I have found no source tellin how they should be adjusted and what is the flow supposed to be.

THE ***** pic at http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/3

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

OH!!! i never knew that. hmm so you could effectively cut off the EGR just by screwing that solenoid shut? that's some good news for ppl that want to kill their EGR but still need it to pass smog/emissions

Wiking

Dunno if thats practical - just pinch the hose? Cut the solenoid wire, add a 'emission switch' ? I have found no real effect in disabling the EGR.

U have lots of those, cut one in half and let us see...

madmax571

HELP HERE>> since I canot post a new thread,I have a 1992 se 5 spd and my friend put in a new motor(used)and it idles at about 1500 rpm and started pinging on the highway in 3rd gear when I puched it(using premo)but I see my friend did not put a part on the new motor (cause it came out of a auto car) being the power valve actuator is this my problem what does it do anyway and what if any hoses go to it from what engine,the power valve actuator I am talking about only comes on the 5 spd engines and sits on the passenger side of the intake does anybody know how that missing power actuator valve will affect my car and should I get one??does anybody know anybody in chicago that can help me with this car besides a dealer,I live on the nw side of chicago,maybe my timing is wrong?this car is all new to me

97maxibeast

iTrader: (3)

ive got the saaame problem good luck man

tv4184

iTrader: (1)

Yeah we were able to fix the problem already. Only problem now is the coolant is leaking from an unknown source.

mofoaka

new problem...not hesitating.. but the car bucks at 4 krpm. the car will buck and lose throttle control at that rpm and will return to normal. there is a engine code being thrown but not stored in the ECU. could this be a symptom of bad MAF, o2 sensor, tps, bad coils?

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

buck or hesitate?
bucking = moar power
hesitate = less power

mofoaka

it'll buck and stop responding to my throttle control until i let the rpm lower a bit.. then it'll respond again. anyone think its a fault tps or badly corroded tps connections?

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

like this???
http://s164.photobucket.com/albums/u...t=MVI_1773.flv

(no that car isn't rly a turbo... it's a probe n/a. he just put in a turbo cluster cuz the n/a topped at 85mph )

tv4184

iTrader: (1)

The only thing about the video is it seems more controlled and over a wider rpm. This is like in spurts within a range of 700 rpm. Thing is one time when I let go of the accelerator, the engine actually cut out on me completely. And to better answer the previous question when the car bucks...it first loses power and becomes unresponsive to the gas pedal...and then if you happen to be giving it gas when the power decides to come back, the car surges back to where it was supposed to be in the rpm range, so if you were at 4k, then power jumps from the 1500 it dropped to all the way to 4k...so thats the bucking response that'll you'll get when driving it. I'll let my friend explain more when he's back online.

Wiking

Injector(s) and/or MAF dying?

Test disconnect -or- Swap MAF, Measure each injector resistance.

mofoaka

been a while since update, been busy with pharm school so no time to mess with car. i removed IM exposing rear injectors.. checked each injector resistance with ohm meter. front 3 had reading of 12. back two had reading of 10.9.. and one injector was at 40. , MAF was replaced with a working one; however, my original one was also working to begin with (anyone want to buy an working MAF from me?)

As of now, the car is running rich. You can smell it from the exhaust. There is still noticable misfire at 1-2krpm; however, idling is still normal. i can not keep a constant RPM in the range between 1-2krpm. i.e. keeping rpms at 1500 is impossible, it will jump up and down. i have looked at the plugs(NGK nissan oem) and they all look normal.

Things i've already tried..

1. unplug O2 sensor and drove around.. no change in hesitation or bucking. iirc, a bad, malfunctioning o2 sensor will cause these hesitations but if you unplug the o2 sensor it should run better.

2. cleaned the original MAF 2 times with MAF cleaner and even replaced it.


3. checked all the coils for cracks and resistance with ohm meter. all are uncracked and have consistent ohm reading. ( i have 2 good sets of coilpacks)

4. replaced all vacuum lines and made sure they are all correctly connected

5. CTS has been replaced probably 5-6k ago so that shouldn't be a problem.

6. IACV has been cleaned 3 times by removal, it was soak in cleaner and brushed with gasket replacement.

7. only wire that was broken was the front VTC connector to the selenoid, i already have a replacement and will be soldering back on.

8. KS was replaced approx 10k ago.. harness is intact since there was a nice little wasp nest surrounding the connector therefore no heat stress and rubber still nice and soft.

9. last thing i'll be doing is soldering the old injector harness i used couplers for to insure good constant connection.

does anyone know anyhting else that may be causing this hesitation other than this failed injector? should i replace the injectors that are reading 10.9? could the broken injector harness have caused the injectors to go bad?

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

replace the failed injector to start with.
start with the obvious, THEN look for the not so obvious if the problem persists

mofoaka

should i replace the ones that are reading 10.9 resistance? dont want to shell out another 200 for 2 extra injectors taht are still good

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

I wouldn't.

mofoaka

this maxima... is not cooperating. i've replaced the injectors that were reading higher than 11ohms.. brand new bosch and still it's hesitating at times underload. Then it'll buck a little and not respond to throttle. At idle it'll be at 700 rpm, dip to 500, and revive to 700. I've replaced the PTU, TPS, MAF, ALL coilpacks, cts, waterpump, fixed the injector harness that was damaged, ohm'ed all the injectors, .. i've replaced all vaccum hoses. i'm about to give up and part out guys. any more suggestions of cures? i've changed the ignition relays that i read about on the forum.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

unplug the iacv and set idle via the set screw (i think the VE has one???) and see if the idle still dips.. have you also done pcv valve and fuel filter? and you aren't throwing any codes are you? how's your 02 sensor?

mofoaka

i haven't replaced the PCV valve.. i have noticed a bit of oil in the IM everytime i take it off.. fuel filter has been replaced before.. but i can shell out another few bucks for one.. o2 sensor is still OEM and never been replaced, i'll give the iacv a try.. but i am not sure that's the problem.. a/c isn't on .. would it still be effected by iacv?

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

if the iacv is malfunctioning electrically it might be causing the wrong amount of air to come in. now... i don't think the iacv will affect you much at all when you are actually driving at speed, as the iacv's total air throughput is way less than the full throughput of the TB at WOT... but whether a/c is on or not, a dirty or electrically wonky IACV can cause a screwy idle.

how many miles on the 02 sensor? ever checked your ECU codes? Also make sure that all of your grounds around the engine bay are in good shape.. pretty much anything that can impede electrical conductivity can cause the car to run weird.

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

Don't forget to look for corrosion(green crap) on the sensor harness plugs, and make sure they are tight, you can smash the female ends on the harnesses down a little, this will aid in making a good connection..

mofoaka

o2 i suppose is 120k, bought the car when it had 80.. only drove it for 40k and now all these problems.. i have noticed there are some lose ground connectors as the wires are fraying and about to break off. Should i fix the grounds are add a grounding kit? i'll make sure that the connectors are secure and clean.. but i've checked it before. i'll do it again tho. ECU codes always show up clean.

Car still has a lot of power, just acting stupid with with this hesitation/buck..


anyone in houston sw area willing to come to my place and give my max's heart a jump start? i'm growing tired of diagnosing and and spending extra money.. =D i'll supply pizza/ wings and drinks of ur choice

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

there's a few good .Orgers in Houston.. Maxitech, Matt93se, cmax03, i'm sure there's others. Definitely fix any bad grounds you have. Getting one of the Blehmco ground kits wouldn't be a bad idea either. Most people report smoother idle and better engine response after putting one on (yet another thing on my to-do list).

mrkanda

iTrader: (3)

I definitely recommend the Blehmco grounding kit. My engine runs very smooth and starts up immediately now that the kit is installed. It's not hard to install either. You can order one from http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...ww.blehmco.com or PM Matt93SE.

Also, a new O2 sensor wouldn't be a bad idea. I think they are supposed to be changed every 100k miles or so.

mofoaka

haha .. think about swapping the vlsd tranny into a working GXE maxima..they're pretty cheap. then i'll swap all my suspension parts over.. how bad is the swap if i already have an existing 5spd tranny.. lol.. just a thought.. *sigh* back to trouble shooting..

PS how bad is the swap anyways cape? any DIY's online?

NISMOALT

problem solved today.

just wanted to say i had the wierd bucking at 1000-2000 (1500 to be excact) aswell. i just came back from doing a tuneup....oil filter/fuel filter/spark plugs/coils/re-oiled it up and the mechanic told me my pcv valve hose had a crack in it... i was hanging with him and he just cutt some new hose and made a new pcv hose as well as replaced my pcv and bam the sputter/bucking/sticking or what ever you want to call it, is gone!!!

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

sweet. did you use brand new coils, or just replaced the with some that had no cracks/lower miles?

Nicks_92MaximaSE

Hey all,
First, a huge thanks to many of you, I just read this 70+ post thread and it's awesome. I have a '92 Maxima SE (DOHC) 5 spd and I'm the original owner, so like many, I can't seem to think about selling it.

For 2-3 months, I've had the hesitation/sputtering and sometimes jumping issue described by many. My Maxima is hesitating from a dead stop position and also during low speeds, but once I'm in 3rd gear the sputtering mostly stops but I still feel much less power than I'm used to with this car.

I brought it to a mechanic who said I have one cracked ignition coil (center one in front - aka "left") and that I should replace my NGK platinum spark plugs. I replaced the original plugs at 61k miles and now have 122k miles, so my plugs are definitely due to be replaced.

I just purchased one Nissan OES ignition coil from for my 1992 Nissan Maxima SE, here's the link where I got it:
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/de...3-1607528.html
(their part #: W0133-1607528)

The part itself came with a 1.5" cylindrical-shaped cardboard that's attached at the bottom of the coil - where it touches the spark plug.
Question: do I remove this cardboard or do I keep it attached to the ignition coil when installing it?

I ask because this new OES ignition coil is shorter than my original one (same exact OES part number).

Do I need to buy a BOOT EXTENDER or anything? If yes, from where? Can't find them. Unfortunately, I tried pulling the boot off my cracked/original coil but it cracked in half.

Today I installed the new ignition coil WITHOUT the cylindrical-shaped cardboard and took the car for a ride around the block. The car actually runs worse. While it was running rough and hesitating/sputtering before, it is worse now. When I press the gas, it's jumping and sputtering.

I'll install the 6 new spark plugs when they are delivered (in a few days).

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I'll also be replacing my fuel filter (mechanic said it has a small leak), which is 20k miles old. And I'll add some STP fuel injector cleaner which can't hurt.

If the coil replacement and new plugs don't fix the issue, I plan on replacing the O2 sensor next.

Thanks much,
-Nick

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

Nick:

Yes, you definitely need to have the oem rubber extender on there, i have a few good used extenders if you want them, or just buy a new one.

Be prepared though, you may have more than one bad coilpack, just because they are not cracked, doesn't mean they are good..

Nicks_92MaximaSE

Greeny,
Thanks for your reply. Please drop me a note to my email at:
coachnick66-purchases@yahoo.com. For delivery, I live in New York.

Yeah, I would appreciate getting at least a couple of rubber boots from you (just in case I screw up again and crack another -- assuming I have another bad ignition coil.

BTW, on my '92 Maxima, I understood that one of the things that was new (for that model) is that each of the 6 spark plugs got INDIVIDUAL ignition coils. So given that, what's the difference between ignition coil and "coil pack"? I'm guessing that my car doesn't have a "coil pack", but would appreciate a clarification.

Thanks guys, and when I do get my hesitation/sputtering issue resolved, I'll post here with details of my solution.
-Nick

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

the 2 terms are used interchangeably because most people have no clue what a car has.
another theory is calling the VE's a coilpack because it has a coil plus some electrical component

'92SEJR

Any maxima owners out near Denver that would be willing to help me diagnose a similar issue?? This seems to be a really common problem.

pjpjpjpj

I am in the Denver area. My car just started doing this on Friday. Have to use it to get around town.. hoping I won't damage anything in the process.

If you find someone willing to take a look then will you let me know as well? Willing to chip in on compensation.