tv4184

iTrader: (1)

We just changed the timing chain on the Maxima. It has a VE30DE. When we were done there was a vacuum leak and we addressed it because some how the lower intake plenum became loose. We thought that would fix the hesitation / stutter it has in acceleration. However it is still there and it occurs around the 1800-2000 rpm. The car would either slow down and then gather speed again OR it would slow down and then have a sudden jump in speed. I'm not sure what is wrong but with it acting up like this I haven't been able to drive it. I hope someone can help me out with this. I also had installed the NWP spacer kit but removed it thinking that was the cause of the leak but it wasn't. The TB spacer, EGR delete, and coolant bypass is still on there. Also the engine is throwing an EGR code because mine is a cali spec and that means it has the EGR temperature sensor. Does anyone have any idea if this would be the problem (the EGR code) or if it'd be something else causing the hesitation at 1800-2000 rpm?

MaximaN00b

is it a complete miss like.. a PAUSE..
picture this as a sound wreeeeeeeeeeeeee.........reee......

check the coils, secondly, if coils are good, check the injectors.. only COMMON things i can think of.. sounds like a coil or two.. they would cut you off at a low RPM, but usually only while at WOT..

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

or could be vacuum leak. but prolly coils or injector.

tv4184

iTrader: (1)

Nah no vacuum leak...we changed all of the hoses. Hopefully not injector. I know the feeling of a malfunctioning injector because I had to replace one already. What should I do with the coils? Pull out the springs? Clean them? I haven't a clue how to do that right now.

mrkanda

iTrader: (3)

I had a similar problem on a VG Max and it ended up being the Knock Sensor. Replaced that myself (easy to do) and now no problem! Don't know about the VE, if it has one of those.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

VE has one, it's MORE important and critical to how well a VE runs, and it's MORE of a pain to get to. it's dead center on the floor of the "valley", under the lower intake manifold.

jromero1985

My 1990 nissan maxima surges when idling in drive and gets no power and makes a fluttering noise like an exhaust problem. What is the problem?...if any one can help me id be thankfull email me at jromero06022tmail.com will take any suggestions

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

read the stickies. that's why they're sticky. there's a thread called "general maintenence (read before posting)". look at #18. check your codes first. if you get anything but a 55, fix that first to try and help with the surging and idling problems.

also pm somebody (not me, i'm already miffed at you for posting in the other thread that had nothing to do with your problem under the title "i am having the same problem") about how to get an FSM, and do the checks for IACV (idle air control valve) and clean out your iacv plunger (black phallic thing, also clean the, erm, "cervix" (actually called the plunger valve seat) down in the depths of the iacv with some throttle body cleaner), check for vacuum leaks, check all your connectors for green crud, do a tuneup (plugs, wires, cap, rotor) unless you have within the last 6 months, and then worry about your exhaust.

daftinnovations

i would agree on knock sensor. i had mine also come unplugged and it really made car undriveable it would be ok at idle but would bog and not rev over like 3k rpm.

tv4184

iTrader: (1)

UPDATE

It's not the knock sensor, it was replaced less than 1000 miles ago. No vacuum leaks found. Checked all the spark plugs and they're fine too. I believe the Coil packs are fine too since I took them out and cleaned all of them.

There is however an unbelievably strong smell of gas outside of the car when its running and after I turn it off it still lingers. I'm starting to think its something to do with the fuel system but it's not throwing anymore codes now which makes it harder to diagnose...not that the OBD1 system is easy to deal with in the first place. Anyway, I was thinking it could be a leaky injector but last time it did that, the car had trouble starting up too and it's not doing that nor is it misfiring so I'm just plain confused on what it could be now. Also I ruled out the KS being the problem because I can rev and accelerate fine outside of 2300 rpm, its between 1900 and 2300 rpm that the hesitation comes into play. It used to throw codes before though but they all went away after a reset and didn't come back.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

did you actually pull the codes and get a 55 or did you just base that off whether the CEL is on or not? the CEL is just for decoration... codes can be stored but the light like never comes on. now uh... it could be the 02 sensor making it smell gassy, could be a problem with the charcoal canister or some of the fuel lines (rail, overflow hose, etc), perhaps the CTS reading the temp wrong and running rich... etc.

mikekantor

iTrader: (5)

Tuan, it sounds like you need to tighten the fuel lines, that usually gets rid of the smell. Not sure about the hesitation though...

Let me know if you want to look at it this weekend, I have to return a few of your tools anyway.

tv4184

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I just read about the CTS on another thread. I'm going to nissan to get a replacement. I don't trust the Autozone equivalent. I pulled the codes and yes I got quite a few before that. I got codes 13, 32, and 45. 13 is Coolant temperature sensor, 32 is the EGR valve (which I took out already), and 45 is a leaky injector... The weird thing is, before the CEL would go off if I reved over 3000 rpm. That might explain something too. But right after I pulled all these codes, I wanted to have another go and the only code I could read was 55. What is the charcoal canister you speak of? And also I have replaced the Y pipe, would that affect the O2 sensor operation? I don't know how to check to see if its operational except by installing an A/F gauge...since those O2 sensors are a bit pricey. Theres a bit more to chew on for now. I'll add the CTS to the list of things to get.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

ok. replacing the ypipe will not negatively affect o2 sensor operation. you can check to see if it's operational by watching the light on the ECU or something (crap you have a VE so i haven't done this on a VE) but there will be a procedure listed in the FSM that tells how to check for the blinking light as an indication of whether or not the O2 is working right, and then how to see if it says rich or lean at any given moment. much easier on a VG ecu, cuz we have 5 modes and you just have 2. never made sense to me why you just have 2 and we have 5 but w/e that's life.

the canister is the thing up under my relay box

tv4184

iTrader: (1)

Yeah we can look at it this weekend if you're free. The fuel lines might need replacing. I'm not sure how they are at this point. Also might wanted to know if you have an extra MAF so I can see if that's the problem.

mikekantor

iTrader: (5)

I'm free on Saturday. I dont have extras, but we can just swap my MAF temporarily.

tv4184

iTrader: (1)

My friend also suggested swapping the coil packs too. I plan on changing the CTS today though.

Pearl93VE

iTrader: (14)

I had the same problem when my CTS went bad. But instead of being stuck closed, mine got stuck open. So my car would jump and jitter from idle to about 2300rpms, then clear up through the rest of the powerband. Though if I was just crusing 55 on the highway and pressed the gas a little to knock it into 3rd gear and accelerate slowly it would feel like it was missing. It also made the car run very rich and it always smelled like unburnt fuel.

It's an easy install, hope that solves your problem like it did mine.

http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...re-sensor.html

tv4184

iTrader: (1)

Okay well I tried the CTS and that didn't fix the problem. The stock Y pipe has that "bees" noise now so I was gonna try and put my warpspeed back on and in the process put on a different O2 sensor. The car has clear power up til 1900 and clears up again after 2300 so thats the range where the bogging / hesitation occurs. If it's a leaky injector I'm not sure how to address that issue. Other than that I don't know what else to try so far anyway. I am running Marvel Mystery Oil in the crank case right now and a Prestone Super Flush through the cooling system if that matters.

mikekantor

iTrader: (5)

I dont think you have a leaky injector. It wouldnt isolate itself to an RPM range, and you would notice poor starting. An easy check is to pull your spark plugs shortly after the engine was running and just listen. When I had a leaky o-ring on an injector I could hear a very loud hiss with the spark plug out.

tv4184

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, we think it's something electronic like the O2 sensor or MAF. Maybe a faulty coilpack.

Pearl93VE

iTrader: (14)

Doubt it is the 02 sensor, the ECU can account for it enough for it not to run crappy. Coil packs would be worth checking out.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

When yall removed the NWP spacers, you installed a brand spanking new IM gasket or did you use RTV?

tv4184

iTrader: (1)

We used a new IM gasket.

tv4184

iTrader: (1)

I tried to do the diagnostic procedure for the o2 sensor and I can't tell if the LED is blinking correctly. Is it supposed to be fast consecutive blinks or is it just steady constant blinks that are slow?

mikekantor

iTrader: (5)

IIRC slow ones count the first digit, quick ones count the second digit

tv4184

iTrader: (1)

Finally tested parts vs. a working VE30DE. It was one of the coil packs in the rear. Problem is...we replaced it with a new autozone one and its still not working. So its either the boot or the Autozone one is faulty. I'm trying to get a hold of a set of used ones so I can just put one in and get it working again.

mofoaka

:::Posting for tv4184:::

coilpack boot has been replaced; however, the hesitation at 2krpm still exists. I am about to tear down this engine to the knock sensor to clean and replace anything needed as this was my car originally and tv4184 has ventured into a new realm. In addition to this update, the radiator fluid was flushed and is still brown. there is no loss in oil or is there any coolant residue in the oil. maybe it is the supercleaner reacting to the iron block. a few more flushes might be required. I have also noticed that when A/C is on the IACV does not do its job properly. This makes the hesitation worse than without A/C. Can someone please show me a picture of the one way valves(black and white) on the vaccum reservoir tank on the side of the shock tower.

any gurus that like to chim in please do.. injectors are still firing normally. when i pull the connects off an individual coilpack, misfire will appear so this should be normal.

Car's power is still there, just the big hesitation at ~2000rpm. This was my very first car since i was 16.. now i'm 24 and i want this thing back and running. Thanks!

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

Is the hesitation a "smooth" type hesitation, or a stubbly type?

How long does the stumbling last(i.e. like 2000rpm through 2500rpm?)

mofoaka

its sorta subtle, i can drive the car by lightly feathering the throttle from 1000-2000 rpm but once i start putting more pressure on the pedal it would not go anywhere. feels like the exhaust is stuffed with a potato. if i stomp on the gas from the start(from stop light and wromping it out ) it wont have the hesitation.

I've already decided to change:
1. fuel filter (since it has never been done, Should i go nissan parts or autozone?)
2. fuel lines ( is it 5/16 diameter? please do inform)
3. the PCV valve(since this has never been done nissan or Nissan?)
4. Thermostat (genuine Nissan stuff)
5. Coolant temperature sensor ( genuine Nissan stuff)
6. Change injector harness to the back of the injectors (crushed from earler attempts to install Intake manifold at night)

As this is all done, i will check for injector resistance.

Is there a good way of cleaning the throttle body position sensor?
I was going to get some electrical cleaner and just spraying it down. any sensors or connections will be sprayed down and greased with connection grease.

I noticed that were were two ***** on the IACV, are there any adjustments needed to be made on that?

my other friend who works on 240s, 350s and skylines said that we might have messed up the timing change guide change, but this is doubtful since mikekantor, tv4184 and i did this together and we did not notice a teeth jump on the chain.

I believe all the coilpacks work but i will still put black silicone and electrical tape as insulation on to any cracks that may exist on the front and rear coilpacks.

Will bad O2 sensors cause this problem because these are also original.

This car has approx 140k. (5spd vlsd)

i dont want to see this car get trashed so i want to fix it

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

3rd gens only have 1 O2 sensor.

go ahead and change all stuff listed, can't hurt.

***** on the IACV? post some pics of these ***** please(no ***** that i know of, just one screw adjustment)

Cleaning tps? not possible, cleaning the contacts on the tps wire harness and tps terminals are possible and recommended.

PMAX08

You know i bought a 92 5spd vlsd in the spring and when i got it, it had that exact same problem, i got so fed up with guessing and changing parts that i ended up taking the car to the dealer and they diagnosed it and coil packs and plugs - all of them, which was hard to believe for me, they also wants $1200 bux to fix this, i told them where to go and got a full set of coils used in good shape for 80 bux and a set of NGKs for 100 bux and swapped it all out, it turned out they actually had the wrong plugs in the car, anyways the issue was gone and now it runs smoooooth, whether it was the plugs or coils i duno, but it fixed it

tv4184

iTrader: (1)

There is some detail that mofoaka left out. There is one brand new coilpack from nissan and a new boot extension on that one. There are 2 "autozone" new coil packs in the front of the engine and then the rest are original. I guess keeping in mind this car is 15 years old now...theres still quite a few things we haven't touched on it. We have a set of NGKs from Nissan installed less than 500 miles ago and he checked on them and said they were okay.

The ***** on the IACV I believe come only on the manual and not the automatic. That's what mofoaka said anyway. I'll let him chime in since he's the one working on the car.

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

I have a manual VE5, there are no '*****" on the iacv..just one screw adjuster.

mofoaka

After further investigation I found that the rear injector harness is damaged and is hanging by 2-3 copper wires inside. Greeny you are right the ***** are no on the iacv, that post was written through memory. The ***** are on a vacuum deal with green and brown sensors that have color coordinated plugs. There is a cracked front coilpack I am going to replace all things listed and fix the injector harness pictures will be posted later when tv4184 gets the time

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

the ***** are just covers of some strange sort iirc

mofoaka

i will be repairing the injector harness tonight... will solder hold on under the IM? or should i use a copper coupler to put the wires together and then heat shrink it? i am hoping this is the cause of the car's hesitation. does anyone think this could have caused damage to the injectors and cause lean conditions? the spark plugs look normal. they are still very clean, not rich nor lean.

mofoaka

This is what i was talking about with the *****.


The damage with the injector harness after removing all the plastic and electrical tape.


Originally it was still some what intact.. after a little movement of the wires. There you go separated wires


THis was the coilpack i was talking about, the boot looks like it was melting compared to the other two coilpack

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

time to solder and shrink wrap.

tv4184

iTrader: (1)

Damnit that was brand new too.