Does anyone know the pin-out for the (3-wire model) O2 Sensor?

REPLACEMENT offers P/N# USOS-3000, i'ts half the price of the NTK OEM one that includes the connector, but one has to solder it to the old harness connector. My original NTK is a 3-wire model but the color of the wires don't match USOS-3000.

 

is the sensor you bought red/white/black (not necessarily in that order)?

 

http://www.thepartsbin.com/catalog/?...ssan&md=Maxima

I didn't buy it yet, but here is the photo - it's the second one down. Notice there is no red wire. My original had a red wire for sure. Could I just peel off the jacket and look at where the wire goes into the metal, and re-trace it back? The question is, does this brand match the internals of the NTK.

Also, daver do you think those O2 sensor fittings are un-necessary, I can just weld on a HEX Nut? They seem like a rip - 20 bucks for a nut?

 

 

wat?

what happened to the one that is already welded onto your ypipe?

 

Gone when the whole thing busted off onto the street.

But the wires - I guess you aren't sure? I'll buy the cheaper one and hopefully it should work just re-soldering.

 

.... oh. do you have the ability to patch it and weld a new nut on there yourself? or to go to the jy and get a better ypipe? i can't get a new ypipe on my own car... eeeeverything else needs to be replaced b/c it's all fused together on my car.

 

I'm buying the Bosal y-pipe replacement but I doubt they will be kind enough to provide the hole with the pre-welded fitting - so I'm going to take it to a welder guy I know and he'll use a MIG unit at his workplace....that's if he isn't too stoned.

I used matt93's text file and heated every fitting up after using the penetrant....this step is risky, the rusty metal collected the penetrant and even by the next day it ignited when heating but put it out quick or it'll burn the surrounding hoses. I did it multiple times though and let it cool down then do it again, and then I stuck a candle on each fitting and it 'sucks' the wax onto the fitting. Then I go straight to the impact wrench to blast it while it's hot, that's when the rust flies everywhere into fine powder. In the text file he says to get it cherry red - I couldn't with just the propane. I'm returning it to buy the MAPP/Oxygen kit (it's extremely cheap)...propane alone won't make it cherry red - unless maybe I sat there for 15 minutes holding it - but I doubt it. By the way, without heating it I doubt they would have come off so that TXT file is a big help.

The access is very tight and it was clumsy to use the flex bar, so I used a impact extension (6") and a U Joint and just blasted them to hell. The RH (firewall side) Y-Pipe flange nuts are the WORST. Mine are completely rounded - I got 1 off. The remainder will have to be cut off with oxy fuel I suspect. I even tried a craftsman "BOLT-OFF" but it didn't work.

 

the aftermarket ypipe should have the hole and nut on it already i'd think

 

Bosal definitely will.