Torque Value Adjustments for Anti-Seize Lubricated Fasteners
#1
Torque Value Adjustments for Anti-Seize Lubricated Fasteners
Has anyone found a chart or basic guide on how much to reduce torque values when applying anti-seize to a fastener? I'm pretty sure all the torque specs in the FSM are dry-torque values.
I've read somewhere to reduce by 50% or something, but that would seem dangerous...I couldn't imagine feeling safe with my wheel nuts at 36 ft-lbs. Basically he implied that applying EP grease or anti-seize allows the fastener to tighten way more than dry.
I've read somewhere to reduce by 50% or something, but that would seem dangerous...I couldn't imagine feeling safe with my wheel nuts at 36 ft-lbs. Basically he implied that applying EP grease or anti-seize allows the fastener to tighten way more than dry.
Last edited by 1993-VG30E-GXE; 08-23-2008 at 03:10 PM.
#2
For wheel studs, keep them at the stock values... I usually torque mine to about 95ft lb, lubed or dry. As for engine values, they usually quote internal engine values (head bolts and such) while coated with motor oil.
for suspension and etc, just put some anti sieze on them and use good judgement when putting them on. pretty much anything above about 10mm bolt diameter (14mm bolt head), you can just pound it on with an impact wrench and call it good. only places you really need to worry about torque specs are engine/tranny parts and wheel bearings.
for suspension and etc, just put some anti sieze on them and use good judgement when putting them on. pretty much anything above about 10mm bolt diameter (14mm bolt head), you can just pound it on with an impact wrench and call it good. only places you really need to worry about torque specs are engine/tranny parts and wheel bearings.
#3
Not all torque value are dry...for instance head bolts, rod bolts, main bolts etc...I personally didn't think alot of damage can be done torquing bolts and not adjusted the torque values if anti-seize is used. This isn't that important on larger fasteners but the smaller fasteners (6mm and smaller) that maybe on an component such as your transmission as a sub assembly or structural member could important! IMO....
#4
For wheel studs, keep them at the stock values... I usually torque mine to about 95ft lb, lubed or dry. As for engine values, they usually quote internal engine values (head bolts and such) while coated with motor oil.
for suspension and etc, just put some anti sieze on them and use good judgement when putting them on. pretty much anything above about 10mm bolt diameter (14mm bolt head), you can just pound it on with an impact wrench and call it good. only places you really need to worry about torque specs are engine/tranny parts and wheel bearings.
for suspension and etc, just put some anti sieze on them and use good judgement when putting them on. pretty much anything above about 10mm bolt diameter (14mm bolt head), you can just pound it on with an impact wrench and call it good. only places you really need to worry about torque specs are engine/tranny parts and wheel bearings.
#6
Hello.
Torque values as follows:
Dry = 100 %
Lubed (light oil e.g. SAE 10) = -10%
Graphitepaste (Never Seize) = -30%
These values can be found in any machinists handbook, english or german.
Using the dry value on a lubed bolt can lead to severe over torqueing.
When you torque a dry bolt you are fighting mostly friction in the threads.
Lubing the Bolt minimises that, also the clamp pressure on multiple bolts will be more even.
Please think of this: torque ist not what holds your parts together but the clamp pressure between the bolt head and the material.
The torque ist just a convenient way to measure this, since it is rather difficult to squeeze a scale between, say the bell housing and the transmission flange....
Clean lubed bolts will give you better, more acurate results anytime.
Dry dirty bolts are not a good way to hold something together reliably.
If you are worried about something coming apart due to vibration use lockwashers or Loctite, do not depend on dry rust and dirt to do it for you!
I prefer graphite based Neverseize for the simple reason that it will come apart 10 years later even if it was under water.
Here a link with tables: http://www.mzind.com/M_Z_Suggested_Assembly.pdf
Greetings, Pete
Torque values as follows:
Dry = 100 %
Lubed (light oil e.g. SAE 10) = -10%
Graphitepaste (Never Seize) = -30%
These values can be found in any machinists handbook, english or german.
Using the dry value on a lubed bolt can lead to severe over torqueing.
When you torque a dry bolt you are fighting mostly friction in the threads.
Lubing the Bolt minimises that, also the clamp pressure on multiple bolts will be more even.
Please think of this: torque ist not what holds your parts together but the clamp pressure between the bolt head and the material.
The torque ist just a convenient way to measure this, since it is rather difficult to squeeze a scale between, say the bell housing and the transmission flange....
Clean lubed bolts will give you better, more acurate results anytime.
Dry dirty bolts are not a good way to hold something together reliably.
If you are worried about something coming apart due to vibration use lockwashers or Loctite, do not depend on dry rust and dirt to do it for you!
I prefer graphite based Neverseize for the simple reason that it will come apart 10 years later even if it was under water.
Here a link with tables: http://www.mzind.com/M_Z_Suggested_Assembly.pdf
Greetings, Pete
Last edited by Reachstacker; 10-15-2008 at 04:08 PM.
#7
Thanks guys for the suggestions. Pete I take it your 30% adjustment applies to copper or silver based anti-seize also? This is the cheap anti-seize that's readily available to me in larger container with brush.
By the way pete, would you personally feel safe driving around on the highway with your wheel nuts reduced 30% from the FSM spec, as well as the Wheel Bearing Lock Nut reduced 30%? I know in theory it should be reduced, but what about reality - where peoples lives are on the line. Even if you took the high value of the wheel lock nut (36mm), it's still drastically low on the torque wrench.
By the way pete, would you personally feel safe driving around on the highway with your wheel nuts reduced 30% from the FSM spec, as well as the Wheel Bearing Lock Nut reduced 30%? I know in theory it should be reduced, but what about reality - where peoples lives are on the line. Even if you took the high value of the wheel lock nut (36mm), it's still drastically low on the torque wrench.
Last edited by 1993-VG30E-GXE; 10-18-2008 at 11:52 AM.
#8
I'm gong to go with you on that one. I put anti-seize on the studs and nuts, but there's no way I would trust it reducing the stock value by 30%. I've even read one guide that said to reduce by 50% when using anti-seize. That would be suicidal in my opinion, it may work, but if it doesn't, your relying on theroy
Last edited by 1993-VG30E-GXE; 10-18-2008 at 03:10 PM.
#9
I'm gong to go with you on that one. I put anti-seize on the studs and nuts, but there's no way I would trust it reducing the stock value by 30%. I've even read one guide that said to reduce by 50% when using anti-seize. That would be suicidal in my opinion, it may work, but if it doesn't, your relying on theroy
#10
I've been using anti seize and stock torque values of 80 ft-lbs on my cars for longer than most of yall been alive and I've even perform 25 mile retorques and have never seen any lug nuts under torqued or loosened! I personally think it's more dangerous over torquing fasteners than using antiseize!
#11
matt93se does 95 lb ft on his lugnuts......... as much stuff as he's done i certainly trust his judgement on that
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
tarun900
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
19
12-20-2021 06:57 PM
BPuff57
Advanced Suspension, Chassis, and Braking
33
04-16-2020 05:15 AM