Pass side axle?
Pass side axle?
This is the second time I've had to take out my axle's. And the passenger side is a pain in the a**. Does anyone know any tricks, or any easy way to get it out. Or does it just suck all the time?
the only hard part are the three bolts on the bearing by the y pipe. the rest of it is easy.. unbolt the ball joint and swing the entire strut and spindle assembly out of the way, then the axle just pulls out. (and make sure you drain your tranny fluid FIRST!
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This is the second time that I've done this project. The bolts are the easy part for me, I can't get the axle out. The bearing gets stuck. I can't pull it out because I don't want it to break. I'm not replacing it, just pulling it out so I can put in a new clutch. And I'm also fixing my broken studs. I got the front done, now it's time for the rear. Any help you can give me?
you won't break it.. once ou get those bolts loose, just hold the spindle out of the way and jerk it out! cover the CV boots with a towel to keep them from snagging on something, but that's about all you can do.
replacing the rear studs.... try removing the rear engine mount, then dropping the back of the engine down some for more clearance.. would probably be easy to do while you've got the tranny out to change the clutch..
changing the clutch.. have a helper when pulling the tranny! don't suck air into the clutch hydraulic system when you're bleeding it! that's about it.. the clutch replacement is pretty straight forward.. and DON'T OVERFILL THE TRANNY WHEN YOU PUT IT BACK TOGETHER!! (don't ask how I know what it'll do to a $300 clutch.
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replacing the rear studs.... try removing the rear engine mount, then dropping the back of the engine down some for more clearance.. would probably be easy to do while you've got the tranny out to change the clutch..
changing the clutch.. have a helper when pulling the tranny! don't suck air into the clutch hydraulic system when you're bleeding it! that's about it.. the clutch replacement is pretty straight forward.. and DON'T OVERFILL THE TRANNY WHEN YOU PUT IT BACK TOGETHER!! (don't ask how I know what it'll do to a $300 clutch.
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The center bearing on the pass. side is a fairly close fit in its carrier that is connected to the engine block. Some corrosion may have developed in the interface area between the bearing and the carrier. Spray some liquid-wrench into the interface area, wait a while, and then tap the bearing with a SMALL hammer to loosen the corrosion. This may help. Otherwise, its like everyone else says, the axle just slips out because there is no retaining clip on the splines that fit into the trans.
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Are you SURE that all THREE (3) bolts have been removed from the bearing carrier that is close to the transmission. Possibly the bearing is also crooked in the carrier - the bearing has some angular play in it. Just checking - no offense meant.
yes all three are out, and it is in there straight. When I finally get it out, I'm going to make sure I never have this problem again.
The whole reason I ask was to see if all 3rd gen VG's had the prob, or if I was the only one. Last time I did this I was under the car for about 2 hours pounding on the axle with a 5 lbs hammer and when it came out I thought that it would be a one time thing. I wasn't thinking that I would be buying a clutch anytime soon.
The whole reason I ask was to see if all 3rd gen VG's had the prob, or if I was the only one. Last time I did this I was under the car for about 2 hours pounding on the axle with a 5 lbs hammer and when it came out I thought that it would be a one time thing. I wasn't thinking that I would be buying a clutch anytime soon.
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Just for giggles... take a look at the bearing (the part with the three threaded holes in it) and see if it is loose and will move or rotate slightly in the carrier (the part with the three clearance holes in it). If there is no movement between the two parts, you need to get those freed up before pulling the axle out.
Be careful when pounding with a large hammer - forcefull blows with steel on steel can impart a tremendous amount of instantaneous shock load. Be sure to use wood or some other soft substance between the hammer and the part to soften the blows.
Last thing. The driver side axle has a circlip on the splines that hold the axle into the trans. The pass. side axle is held into the trans with the bearing. I don't believe any 3rd gens were made with a circlip on the pass. side as a redundant retainer to the bearing. You could check though - get under the car and see if the bearing is sliding in the carrier as you move the axle, but the trans is still retaining the axle.
Be careful when pounding with a large hammer - forcefull blows with steel on steel can impart a tremendous amount of instantaneous shock load. Be sure to use wood or some other soft substance between the hammer and the part to soften the blows.
Last thing. The driver side axle has a circlip on the splines that hold the axle into the trans. The pass. side axle is held into the trans with the bearing. I don't believe any 3rd gens were made with a circlip on the pass. side as a redundant retainer to the bearing. You could check though - get under the car and see if the bearing is sliding in the carrier as you move the axle, but the trans is still retaining the axle.
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