-WHAT CAN I DO TO TEMPORARILY STOP THE CLACK, ALONG W/ THE TOYOTA OIL FILTER. AND W/ THAT, DOES IT HAVE TO BE STRAIGHT FROM TOYOTA, OR CAN IT BE FOR THE SAME CAR, LYK A FRAM HI MILEAGE FILTER OR SOMETHIN.

-IM BURNIN OIL, SO W/ THE VTC'S GOING, AND POSSIBLY VALVE SEALS GONE, IM GONNA JUS REPLACE THE HEAD. WILL IT BE SAFE TO THROW SOME 15 OR MAYBE EVEN 20 WEIGHT OIL IN MY CAR??? OR WILL LUCAS STOP LEAK DO JUST FINE. LET ME KNOW PLEASE.

 

It must be the Toyota filter, from the dealership. See the stickies, I personally use the D3 filter and love it.

 

fix your caps lock button

don't use a fram....ever

lucas won't do much for you...it'll probably thicken your oil and make your oil pump struggle. maybe switch up to 10w-40 for now but don't run it when it's cold...which is in a month.

If you're going to fix it FIX IT RIGHT...stop dumping crap into it for a bandaid fix.

 

What type of oil are you using with that "d3"?, and what's the mileage on you max.?

 

I've tried all sorts of Toyota filters including the D3, a few different types of 10w-30 and 5w-30 Synthetic motor oil. And what I've found works best is Mobil 1 full synthetic 5w-30 (Gallon size) and then another quart of Mobil 1 full synthetic 10w-30. (only put half of the 10w), then when you go to do the oil change again just buy the gallon of 5w-30 and you'll already have some of the 10w left over.

Also, the best filter IMO is the Mobil 1 M1-103 filter. The Toyota F2 filter is too small, and I just didn't have any good results with the Yota' D3 filter the two times I've used it.

edit: both Toyota filters quieted the car down when you first do the oil change, but the clacking comes back very soon, where as the Mobil-1 keeps it relatively (exception of occasional cold starts) clack free for 3000+ miles.

 

I'm running full synthetic (different brands) 5w/30. I have about 156,000 on the max. I change the oil every 5000 or 6000 miles (because it is full synthetic).

 

I've had good results with the D3 (better than the F2). It usually keeps my maxima clack free for 3000 miles or so. Maybe I'll try the Mobile-1 filter and compare.

 

Yeah. Different cars, different engine; I'm sure it varies from car to car. Just personally didn't have a good experience with Toyota filters, maybe it's my hot humid climate. We'll see how the Mobil 1 does in the winter months.

 

-i will be fixing it, but funds are a little tight right now till oct 24th, when get out of LTI. anyway, im planing on just buying new heads and throwin them in. that will be within the next 2-5 months, since im gonna be doing light driving after that date.

-well, im going to try some synthetic oil. and a toyota d3 filter. and just to try, get some lucas in her. doesnt hurt to try. if it doesnt improve, VTC time.

sorry about the caps,

 

Remember that if you go full sythetic, though, you can't go back to normal oil (bad for the engine). So if you have commitment issues, you may want to reconsider.

 

is that even valid anymore? so what happens if he switches back and forth? how is it bad for the engine?

 

Switching from synthetic to dino oil or vice versa will not hurt your engine, i've done it several times with no issues except my rear valve cover will leak a little with synthetic oil vs. dino oil.

Synthetic oils tend to reveal worn seals that would have started to leak with anyway using dino oil , but that is the only catch to switching to synthetic oil.

 

i jus got some valvoline maxlife 10w40, and some stuff that claims to stop oil burning. i will let you know how it goes when i do it tomorrow.

i havent had any problems going synthetic w/ the vg, so why not try w/ the ve.

swappin trans fluid as well.

 

Can someone please explain (in detail) why an oil filter would make the vtc's any quiter?

 

VTCs initial clacking is from lack of oil pressure upon start up.
The recommended filters all have an anti-drainback valve in them to keep oil pressure available almost immediately upon startup.

 

To add to:

--> http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...iscussion.html

I believe MrGone is right on the money with his explanation of the how-n-why they(vtc's) fail.

But the oil filter thing is weird to me also but i have actually seen improvements in using the mobil 1 filter vs. a non antidrainback filter. My guess is the lack of lubrication at initial start up from a non antidrainback filter is what causes the terrible loud clack at startup. though mine are so far gone that they clack regardless of which filter i use, I have noticed less clacking with the mobil 1 filter throughout my driving day, again. I also use a grounding switch to stop my clacking at startup(switch it from grounded to not grounded, then back to grounded stops the clack immediately for me.)

All in all it's best to just replace the worn springs with new ones and follow the nissan tsb on cleaning out the oil gallies to prevent the vtc's springs from failing prematurely from lack of oil.

 

i never had any problems with VTCs...in fact, i never used Toyota filters either jus normal filter and royal purple synthetic oil...

 

You will, just give them a little time.

 

ya i see their connectors and themself wet in oil.....is that seal leak or they r jus on their way to garbage?

 

The vtc solenoids are leaking, no way to fix them that i know of, replacement the only fix i see.

I have a good set of used (non leaking) solenoids f/s if you want them.

 

Wonder if i can use a switch....... how did you make yours?

 

Simple, the wire normally put to ground on the vtc solenoid harness was just extended into the cabin area, then hooked that up a generic flip switch, then another wire off the other pole on the switch to a ground source under the dash.