yes i have had a tune up spark plug and wires not cap or rotor. the cap and rotor are about 2 year
If i got a spark from the plug do that mean all that stuff is working

 

you could pull the rear seat and take the pump out and siphon it.. that might be a better way if you want to remove the gas.

 

I dont have any other way of getting it out

 

well the problem with unhooking the fuel line is that the pump only runs for like 15 seconds at a time that way. if you can bypass the relay and get it to run all the time, then that will speed up the process.

 

oh that sucks
this is going to be hard to do then

 

i have been smelling gas lately also ...it just started as the weather got colder......

 

yours might just be some leaky rubber components, if it's just starting as it gets colder... cuz rubber shrinks when it gets cold. from up front or from out back?

 

i was just reading the other thread about fuel leaks im going to check into the hose and see if that is the problem

 

5/16 fuel injection hose...get about 4-5 feet and 10 fuel injection clamps.
replace all the rubber hoses w/ the new hose...the smell will go away.

 

why not replace the cap and rotor to finish the tune up.
you might have a crack in the cap and the car is not producing a spark strong enough.

don't start draining your fuel tank for something you can fix easily.
get OEM (Nissan) cap and rotor...the aftermarket stuff doesn't really hold up well IMO.

start w/ the basics..then move on to something more difficult. you're getting gas on the plugs so it's not a gas issue. your timing wouldn't all of the sudden jump off. i mean the other thing would be a busted timing belt...but from what you're telling me i doubt it.

 

if each wire is sparking then the rotor's spinning, so the tbelt is intact... so i doubt that as well.

to OP: next time you try starting it, floor the gas pedal, then release, then floor it again and see if flooring the pedal affects whether or not it acts like it wants to catch. flooring the pedal prevents by bypassing startup-mode where it injects a bunch of extra fuel

 

ok i replace my gas and i floored it and still nothing.

 

ok i'm gonna go out on a limb and say to test EACH plug for functinon. take all of them out, take the fuel pump fuse out, and test each spark plug to make sure they are all sparking. and you also need to set your spark timing as best you can just to be sure. You distributor hasn't been removed so the base timing should be basically right... maybe 15 degrees off if that adjuster bolt came loose but it should still fire...

 

Looks like I missed the whole party . OP: is your oil level OK? Wild idea, but when number of options is limited ... I killed my VE recently by running without oil for a mile. At the end it was running very rough for a few sec and then died. I couldn't start it next morning but was so upset that I didn't even try to find out why exactly. You did make home somehow so it must be something else but please do check the oil for a sake of it.

Caped: Is there a procedure to check ignition timing roughly by opening the dist. cap to note which cylinder got a spark and setting cylinder #1 at TDC for example? This would take care of out of wack timing for good.

 

it's gotta be spark...if there's fuel on the plugs then it's spark. i'm sure there's air going in so that shouldn't be a problem.

 

Timing can also be a problem - you got spark & fuel but not at the correct time. Caped nicely demostrated this on video. This is more on exotic side, of course.

 

I guess i have to find someone who know how to check the timing i know nothing about that

 

well timing doesn't physically change on it's own ya know. unless the distributor is broken or the rotor screw is missing timing "shouldn't" change.

to mthomas - turn the engine to TDC on #1 cyl...check to see the distributor rotor is pointing close to #1 pin. if it's not then you have another problem.

IMO it might be worth it to bring it to a shop for them to look at it since you're putting a lot of time into it and not going too far.

 

Well just before this happen (maybe 3 weeks) i had to replace my MAF do you think that could be acting up again?

 

well even with the MAF unplugged the car should still start.

 

did you get that cap and rotor from the dealer yet?
it's a basic tune up item. it's cheap and why are you going into other expensive parts when you don't have the basic stuff taken care of?

when you're trying to figure out a problem always start cheap and small...THEN work your way up.

you wouldn't replace your motor if it needs an oil change right?

you're trying to get the car to run right?
you need 3 things...gas, ignition, and air...all three things combined will allow your car to run. you have gas and air...so right now it's ignition. so you need to figure out the spark issue. i say finish the tune up by swapping out the cap and rotors and going for new plug wires. after you do that you know you're on a level playing field and then you can determine what else is wrong.

stop doing all these non sense work...there was no need to drain the fuel and there's no need for you to look at the MAF.

if you're that stumped or if you're not that mechanically inclined there's no shame in calling in a pro to help you.

 

my motor was due for an oilchange this past weekend when i arrived to Atlanta... so me n goon changed the motor instead but we had other reasons too haha.

to op:
remember there is a screw on the rotor... if it's not there then that could cause your timing to be messed up.. gotta have that. i remember one member about a year ago (grnmaxdmon?) had the rotor come off or something?

 

Well im broke right now so i have to wait on cap and rotor. ill change it out next wed and see what happens. is the dealer the best place to get that or should i go to auto zone or advances. and is it easy to put the rotor and cap on. i think i did it before on my cutlass but it was a long time ago. i think the rotor can only go in one way and the cap u pull one wire off at a time and put on the new cap on the same place. i think

 

He's learning, that's what counts. It's good if he doesn't break a lot of things on his way but that's why we're here, right? Opening the cap and looking where the rotor points to should not be much of the challenge, thank's for the clear instruction. If nothing else comes out of it he'd learn where his #1 cylinder is and how to put it at TDC as a result ... and we'd know that his timing is OK.

 

That's what I call maintenance .

 

well you can order it from courtesy or wherever Dave B sells out of.
there's a 8 mm (i think) screw/bolt on the rotor. the cap is held on by phillips screws. yes do one at a time for the wires. it's tough (almost impossible) to get Nissan OEM parts at autozone or advance. so buy the best and pick up the Nissan stuff.

 

well that's fine that he's learning...but there's also a point when you know you're over your head. we might know how to do all this stuff..he may not.
we're not going to be next to him helping him out ya know.

 

something to keep in mind tho, if you're ordering a few small things from courtesy then DEFINITELY order them all together cuz shipping is minimum $8.95 per order. if it's a small item check your dealer's price vs the courtesy price to see if the savings from courtesy are gonna make it worth it to pay shipping.

 

Someone told me if i could scratch some on the metal on the rotor might help it start

 

it MIGHT expose some better metal but it'll widen the rotor-to-(sparky post thingy in distributor) gap... a new disty rotor is cheaper than a McDonald's combo so no use avoiding that expense.

 

are you actually going to do what we're suggesting or are you going to give us feedback on what others are telling you?

GET THE OEM NISSAN ROTOR
GET THE OEM NISSAN CAP

don't post back until those are installed.

j/k

 

I wanted to know u guys opinion on that that all. Yes im going to get the part and replace both at the same time

 

I replace the whole car

 

That sounds like a good idea. Your a genius!
Why didnt i think of that
As long as this work im good lol

 

I think you need to take your car to a trusted/qualified mechanic...Or at least someone you know that has some knowledge in auto mechanics.


I've seen this same scenario locally, my neighbor kid bought a mitsubishi eclipse, after he spent over $300+2 days replacing the clutch/p-plate/t-o bearing because he thought his clutch was going out. he finally come over and asked me to take a look at it after it still done the same thing after replacing a perfectly good clutch.. well it turned out he had a crack in his clutch fluid reservoir, causing the fluid to all leak out and make his clutch pedal to fall to the floor. It was a $5/10 minute j-yard part fix. All because he had no clue where to start looking for the problem.

 

im going to replace the button today and hope for the best ill replace the cap next week

 

Replacing the rotor button did the trick thank you everyone. you guys are the best
Now i just have to fix my window i broke lol

 

Glad to hear you fixed it

 

woohoo!!!
go and replace the cap too while you're at it.

 

i am thankyou