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Old Dec 10, 2008 | 10:10 AM
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Idle worsens...

..since today in class (about 2 hours ago), we were checking my heater control valve and there's 2 (looks like) vacuum lines that go into it, and one was unhooked and it was fine, we hooked up the line and the metal piece in the valve moved now, then we turned off the car (completing a jobsheet)

about 5 mins later (to check to see how cold the A/C was out of curiosity) and the car wouldn't start but prior to that, my exhaust tube came out and i saw black smoke coming out of the pipe for about 5-10 seconds and then we shut it off, hooked the hose back up, then tried to start it again and it wouldn't stay running

I cranked it about 5 times and it turned over then would shut off immediately, then the 6th time i cranked it and gave it high revs for about 10-15 seconds and then it idled on its own but now it idles at barely 500rpms and it vibrates more violent then before, it even idles bad in park. and the idle surges from time to time as well.

anyone think it could be the vacuum lines?
We unhooked the line that we initially hooked back up but that didn't help at all

If anyone has any ideas on how to fix it, please help!!
Old Dec 10, 2008 | 10:13 AM
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Two things..

1. MAF (unplug/start car to diagnose)

2. Coolant temp sensor.

try #1 first, if no go, then replace #2 (cheap part, like $25 at the dealer)
Old Dec 10, 2008 | 10:15 AM
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3. oxygen sensor.. If part 1/2 fail to fix, this may be the next part to check, (again, unplug to diagnose) This part is a bit more expensive.
Old Dec 10, 2008 | 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Greeny
Two things..

1. MAF (unplug/start car to diagnose)

2. Coolant temp sensor.

try #1 first, if no go, then replace #2 (cheap part, like $25 at the dealer)
Ok, thanks. I'll give it a look now
Old Dec 10, 2008 | 10:54 AM
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Ok well, i didn't exactly check the 3 things i needed to check just yet (charging batteries)

but here's a video of the start up and the bad idle
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XySOIPA9q5I
Old Dec 10, 2008 | 11:09 AM
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WHOA!!! did you notice your temp gauge??? has that been that way for a while or what? mind you, the gauge has one sensor, and the ECU has another (for temperature)... but uh.. did the temp needle go crazy like that before?
Old Dec 10, 2008 | 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by CapedCadaver
WHOA!!! did you notice your temp gauge??? has that been that way for a while or what? mind you, the gauge has one sensor, and the ECU has another (for temperature)... but uh.. did the temp needle go crazy like that before?
My temp gauge i noticed is bad though, cuz it'll intermittently jump to really hot or really cold out of nowhere (like in the video, just went to really hot)

Here's a list of my problems with the car thus far:
Fans are on constant run as soon as the car is cranked
Idle is bad, start is bad (as seen in video)
Power locks stopped working out of nowhere (has done this two times before)
Old Dec 10, 2008 | 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by AM_BlackMax
My temp gauge i noticed is bad though, cuz it'll intermittently jump to really hot or really cold out of nowhere (like in the video, just went to really hot)

Here's a list of my problems with the car thus far:
Fans are on constant run as soon as the car is cranked
Idle is bad, start is bad (as seen in video)
Power locks stopped working out of nowhere (has done this two times before)
if the fans are running nonstop then def check the CTS first... the fans are supposed to run nonstop if the sensor goes bad.
Old Dec 10, 2008 | 11:45 AM
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Should i remove and test the CTS in boiling hot water to see if the valve opens or not?

cuz in the FSM it says the valve opens at 180 degrees

if so, where exactly is it? cuz i can't find it in the FSM..unless i'm overlooking it
Old Dec 10, 2008 | 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by AM_BlackMax
Should i remove and test the CTS in boiling hot water to see if the valve opens or not?

cuz in the FSM it says the valve opens at 180 degrees

if so, where exactly is it? cuz i can't find it in the FSM..unless i'm overlooking it
lol, your thinking about the thermostat dude The coolant temp sensor has to be tested with a multimeter, iirc it's a ohm resistance test.
Old Dec 10, 2008 | 11:54 AM
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Cts location..

Old Dec 10, 2008 | 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Greeny
lol, your thinking about the thermostat dude The coolant temp sensor has to be tested with a multimeter, iirc it's a ohm resistance test.
ahh

still gettin used to the whole testing and understanding how cars work thing

thanks! i'll test it in a few mins. batteries should be charged up a good amount now
Old Dec 10, 2008 | 12:06 PM
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Old Dec 10, 2008 | 12:17 PM
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Check your maf and cts plugs/terminals for corrosion and/or bad connections also..

Last edited by Greeny; Dec 10, 2008 at 01:47 PM.
Old Dec 10, 2008 | 01:08 PM
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Ok well, as i was trying to remove the CTS, the fans kicked off of constant run and my idle is now back to normal. I'm going to verify it in the shop or a garage cuz it's cold out and i was having trouble getting the pin out to check the connection of the CTS

I'll post the video shortly, so you can see what i'm talking about. Could be a bad connection (corrosion maybe; i'll check it as soon as i get it in the garage) Oh and i have a gas leak under the hood woohoo

here's a pic of it


video:
Old Dec 10, 2008 | 01:11 PM
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heh, the gas leak at the crossover pipe hoses is very common on these cars. Try tightening up the screw clamps on each one. this usually stops the leak until you are able to replace the hoses with new ones..
Old Dec 10, 2008 | 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Greeny
heh, the gas leak at the crossover pipe hoses is very common on these cars. Try tightening up the screw clamps on each one. this usually stops the leak until you are able to replace the hoses with new ones..
seems like everything in that general area is a common problem..the leak at the crossover pipe..the VTC clacking..lol
Old Dec 10, 2008 | 01:44 PM
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vid of the cts
Old Dec 10, 2008 | 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by AM_BlackMax


vid of the cts
^^^
this = http://forums.maxima.org/6749702-post14.html
Old Dec 10, 2008 | 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by AM_BlackMax


vid of the cts
idle still dips pretty heavily when you put it in gear.. is that 'normal' for your car? have you cleaned the iacv and stuff lately?
Old Dec 10, 2008 | 01:57 PM
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That's why i said this
Originally Posted by AM_BlackMax
Ok well, as i was trying to remove the CTS, the fans kicked off of constant run and my idle is now back to normal. I'm going to verify it in the shop or a garage cuz it's cold out and i was having trouble getting the pin out to check the connection of the CTS

I'll post the video shortly, so you can see what i'm talking about. Could be a bad connection (corrosion maybe; i'll check it as soon as i get it in the garage)
lol
Old Dec 10, 2008 | 02:00 PM
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Well at least you got her fixed..

Now if a i can convince the kid in the VE stalling thread to do the same thing , his problems will most likely be solved also..
Old Dec 10, 2008 | 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by CapedCadaver
idle still dips pretty heavily when you put it in gear.. is that 'normal' for your car? have you cleaned the iacv and stuff lately?
yeah the idle has always dropped (ever since i've been driving it)

i don't knlow where the iacv is and/or how to clean it
Old Dec 10, 2008 | 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Greeny
Well at least you got her fixed..

Now if a i can convince the kid in the VE stalling thread to do the same thing , his problems will most likely be solved also..
yeah

thanks a lot!

I'll update this thread as soon as i check the connectors and all in the shop
Old Dec 10, 2008 | 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by AM_BlackMax
yeah the idle has always dropped (ever since i've been driving it)

i don't knlow where the iacv is and/or how to clean it
i dunno either on the VE... but the idle shouldn't dive like that. on my brother's car (camry), you can't even tell when he puts it in D just by looking at the tach...
Old Dec 10, 2008 | 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by CapedCadaver
i dunno either on the VE... but the idle shouldn't dive like that. on my brother's car (camry), you can't even tell when he puts it in D just by looking at the tach...


another problem to diagnose..
Old Dec 10, 2008 | 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by AM_BlackMax
yeah the idle has always dropped (ever since i've been driving it)

i don't knlow where the iacv is and/or how to clean it
Under your throttle body.

Looks like this..

Old Dec 10, 2008 | 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by AM_BlackMax


another problem to diagnose..
You need to clean up that filthy engine bay, clean/tighten up all the sensor connectors, replace all the small vacuum lines..

they worry about part replacement.
Old Dec 10, 2008 | 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Greeny
You need to clean up that filthy engine bay, clean/tighten up all the sensor connectors, replace all the small vacuum lines..

they worry about part replacement.
which ones are the small ones

i know it's filthy i hate it!

i wanna clean it up real good but am sketchy on putting on engine degreaser and water this time of the year
Old Dec 10, 2008 | 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by AM_BlackMax
which ones are the small ones

i know it's filthy i hate it!

i wanna clean it up real good but am sketchy on putting on engine degreaser and water this time of the year
small = smaller around than your finger. like the ones going to the fuel pressure reg, the EGR, the charcoal canister, the thing up on the firewall, etc.
Old Dec 10, 2008 | 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by AM_BlackMax
which ones are the small ones

i know it's filthy i hate it!

i wanna clean it up real good but am sketchy on putting on engine degreaser and water this time of the year
Seen my engine bay cleaning video?
Old Dec 10, 2008 | 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by CapedCadaver
small = smaller around than your finger. like the ones going to the fuel pressure reg, the EGR, the charcoal canister, the thing up on the firewall, etc.
ahh i see

the way they did the receiver drier line to the compressor was quite interesting

and i couldn't get that connector out...either they put a real good seal on it or it's got buildup in it causing it to not budge..
Old Dec 10, 2008 | 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by AM_BlackMax
ahh i see

the way they did the receiver drier line to the compressor was quite interesting

and i couldn't get that connector out...either they put a real good seal on it or it's got buildup in it causing it to not budge..
wait.... what? pics? why were you messing with it?

and the 'connector' is the CTS connector right? already got the stupidclip off?
Old Dec 10, 2008 | 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by CapedCadaver
wait.... what? pics? why were you messing with it?

and the 'connector' is the CTS connector right? already got the stupidclip off?
Well in class we were testing/identifying the compressor and i had to find out what kind of system and all that it used..

it's a Zexel compressor with 6 cylinders and has a receiver drier..cuz A/C's have 4 processes..

Expansion device
Evaporator
(receiver drier/accumulator on suction line)
Compressor
(put nothing on the discharge line)
condenser
and it repeats all over again

and i was referring to the connector on the receiver drier.
Old Dec 10, 2008 | 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by AM_BlackMax
Well in class we were testing/identifying the compressor and i had to find out what kind of system and all that it used..

it's a Zexel compressor with 6 cylinders and has a receiver drier..cuz A/C's have 4 processes..

Expansion device
Evaporator
(receiver drier/accumulator on suction line)
Compressor
(put nothing on the discharge line)
condenser
and it repeats all over again

and i was referring to the connector on the receiver drier.
o ok... i thought you were saying this was related to vac lines and i was like... wat
Old Dec 10, 2008 | 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by CapedCadaver
o ok... i thought you were saying this was related to vac lines and i was like... wat
no

sorry i gave that little lesson..i'm just happy i know this stuff
Old Jan 10, 2009 | 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Greeny
Seen my engine bay cleaning video?
I actually haven't....linky?

and i didn't wanna make another thread since i haven't 'fixed' this problem yet

but i was wondering if anyone knew the parts number to the front valve cover gasket.

cuz the rear one is..13270-A if i'm not mistaken

i need both of mine changed cause it looks like this now

you can see the camshaft sensor has oil built up on it

and here
behind the Intake manifold, the downpipe? (correct me if im mistaken) has a puddle of oil on it, and as i'm driving, if (like when it's snowy) and the vents where the windshield wipers are, if those are clogged up the smoke re-routes in-cabin like the car is being hotboxed.. and smoke from where it's being burned also escapes on the sides of the hood.

It got really bad just out of nowhere. before, it was an occasional "wif" of smoke and i just thought i was seeing stuff..but now, i can't drive 5 mins without it starting to smoke

anyways, yeah if you guys can help out in anyway (source me to the parts number) i'll order them tomorrow and let the demo begin :grin:
Old Jan 10, 2009 | 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by AM_BlackMax
I actually haven't....linky?

and i didn't wanna make another thread since i haven't 'fixed' this problem yet

but i was wondering if anyone knew the parts number to the front valve cover gasket.

cuz the rear one is..13270-A if i'm not mistaken

i need both of mine changed cause it looks like this now
[IMG]http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g44/Lno_Sacrifice/93%20Black%20Maxima/IMG_3269.jpg[IMG]
you can see the camshaft sensor has oil built up on it

and here[IMG]http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g44/Lno_Sacrifice/93%20Black%20Maxima/IMG_3266.jpg[IMG]
behind the Intake manifold, the downpipe? (correct me if im mistaken) has a puddle of oil on it, and as i'm driving, if (like when it's snowy) and the vents where the windshield wipers are, if those are clogged up the smoke re-routes in-cabin like the car is being hotboxed.. and smoke from where it's being burned also escapes on the sides of the hood.

It got really bad just out of nowhere. before, it was an occasional "wif" of smoke and i just thought i was seeing stuff..but now, i can't drive 5 mins without it starting to smoke

anyways, yeah if you guys can help out in anyway (source me to the parts number) i'll order them tomorrow and let the demo begin :grin:
Link to vid--> http://videos.streetfire.net/video/W...ine_138890.htm

you will need to soak that engine for a while with some good quality engine degreaser (Gunk makes a good degreaser), you will also need to use a scrub brush on it before rising the degreaser off.

The Oil leakage will increase 2 fold in the winter months, due to the cold weather "shrinking the metal valve covers and the worn gaskets a bit..(makes for a bigger gap for the oil to seep out, or in your case, POUR OUt!!

Link to gasket part #'s http://www.courtesyparts.com/maxima-...1612_1616.html
Old Jan 10, 2009 | 10:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Greeny
Link to vid--> http://videos.streetfire.net/video/W...ine_138890.htm

you will need to soak that engine for a while with some good quality engine degreaser (Gunk makes a good degreaser), you will also need to use a scrub brush on it before rising the degreaser off.

The Oil leakage will increase 2 fold in the winter months, due to the cold weather "shrinking the metal valve covers and the worn gaskets a bit..(makes for a bigger gap for the oil to seep out, or in your case, POUR OUt!!

Link to gasket part #'s http://www.courtesyparts.com/maxima-...1612_1616.html
i see! thanks

and @ pour out
Old Jan 24, 2009 | 05:25 PM
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So my rough idle appeared to be my last 2 original injectors giving out on me.

Replaced them and have had no more problems

Thanks all for the suggestions/tips
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