comrade_Charlie

I know this has probably been covered a million times. but I found a parts list on auto to manual and im confused on the mount info

What is it talking about here

"Engine Mounts:

11253P - AT, MT different, All MT same
11355 - Same for all VG, and VE MT. VE AT diff.
11335M - AT, MT different. All MT same
11320 - AT, MT different, All MT same"

And what is this all about

"Shift Lock Diagram AT-150
Shift Control Components AT-172
Reverse lamp EL-42"

Thanks for any quick replys going to get everything from a junkyard in 2 days.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

there are 2 mounts that go under the engine by the oilpan. those are the same regardless of your tranny type.

then there are 2 more mounts on the driver side frame rail. one under the battery tray, the other under the brake master cylinder. you need the mount, associated bolts, AND the brackets that go on the frame rail for the swap.

if you like pictures... the stuff on the left side of the pic stays the same. the stuff on the right side of the pic is the ones you have to change.


you live like 3 hours from me, so if you need an extra pair of hands, want me to help you find all the bits n pieces you need at the Pull-A-Part in Charlotte (which is really close to you.. i've been there a time or two), etc, shoot me a PM and we can figure something out. btw I did the 5spd swap 11 months ago and am doing one on nc90gxe's car in the spring.

comrade_Charlie

Thanks, I didnt know if those other engine mounts have to be changed because of halfshaft placement differences or something weird like that...

Yea pullapart is close, I was in raleigh last weekend getting a turbo 300zx, long drive in a Z, wish my maxima was still driving, i love driving it long distances vs my Z. It is more comfortable.

Those 2 mounts mount up to the trans right, so I can just leave those bolted to it?

And generally how hard is it to get the shifter assamble, linkages and pedals out of the donor? I have heard linkages can be a pain. And have heard that I may have to pull the dash out to get to the pedal stuff.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

you have to swap the axle carrier bearing bracket... which means totally disconnecting the rear mount and its bracket after removing the passenger side axle. it's best to do this BEFORE beginning to remove the a/t. that way you still have 3 stable mounts, and can reconnect the rear engine mount before removing the tranny.

shifter is a pain IF the studs (which are rivetted into these stupid metal strips that go across the top of the shifter base) start to spin in place. then you have to uh, get creative (hacksaw, or a rigged up contraption to hold the nut still while you drill it out from above... i used a mixture of the 2 methods)

the linkage isn't that bad. just disconnect the flat black plate thing from the tranny. leave it attached to the support rod.

if you don't have the ability to cut your brake pedal, then you have to remove the upper dash and some ducting to get the m/t brake pedal out. clutch pedal can be removed/installed just by removing the knee panel. DO NOT forget the spacer on the firewall

but like i said if you want to set up a time for me to meet up with you and go to a jy, i know the location and necessity of every single last part for the swap... so i can make sure you go home with everything you need the FIRST time. this coming week is not so good of a time tho haha. going to Greeny's house on monday, coming back and finishing up an engine swap for another .org member, then fixing ANOTHER .org member's tranny but after all that's taken care of i should have some free time.

comrade_Charlie

Ok so far I got:

-mt trans, out of a 1992? vg30e, looks to be in good condition. didnt look at mileage LOL.
-clutch master and slave, and all lines
-clutch pedal
-shifter and linkages, Had zero problems getting the shifter out, it was the easiest thing to do... I didn't even do it, had a buddy do it.

Had it all out in under 2 hours, engine had no heads and car had no suspension so it was easy. Now if I could put it in that fast.

Got a few questions though

1. When you say spacer on the fire wall, do you mean the sleeve things(brass color'd I believe) that the clutch pedal studs go through, through the firewall? I did not get those, im going back in 1 or 2 days to get random crap for other cars.

2. Do I need the manual console or will the shift boot thing go into the automatics hole in the console? going backin a day or 2 and would like to know.

3. what and where is the axle carrier bearing bracket? got any pictars. I left all brackets on the trans when I got it. the passenger axle was gone when I got the trans(ah might have to go hunting)

4. do I have to do anything with pilot bearings or anything inside the crank when switching over to manual?

I am not getting the brake pedal, I'm lazy and have the tools to hack up my brake pedal if need be.

Are there and really good official write ups for this?, I found dead links for a 4th gen write up. and I searched but I came up with noob posts like mine, haha.

I appreciate the offer but Im sure you would want money, which I don't have, had to borrow money from a friend to buy all this crap. This is a 250 dollar car also.

Thanks!!

Edit: found this after running into dead links and reading 7 year old posts. http://www.dynomagic.com/5spd_conversion.htm

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

1) i didn't think it was brass, but yea there is a little metal spacer that is a strip with 2 loops at the end spot-welded to the firewall on the inside of the car

2) the boot will snap right in to the a/t console. i had mine that way.

3) the metal ring that the passenger side axle passes thru about 18" away from the actual hole in the tranny. the ring thing on the middle-right of this pic: http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u...t/IMG_2637.jpg

4) you don't HAVE to (i didn't when i did my swap) but it makes life easier if you can. Take a pilot bearing puller tool and as you are tightening it to remove the bearing, stick a flat-tip screwdriver in there to keep the teeth pushed out against the a/t bushing otherwise the tool will just wimp out and not do its job. if you don't use the m/t pilot bushing then the clutch alignment tool won't work. the workaround is as follows:

• after installing flywheel, install clutch (with alighment tool just to keep the disc suspended) and pressure plate, and tighten the bolts LIGHTLY, so that the clutch disc itself still slides around easily inside the pressure plate
• mount the tranny and bolt it on with one or two bolts (one by the starter hole, and another near the rear head, for example)
• now tighten the pressure plate bolts a little more, to where the clutch will NOT be able to slide around. but not TOO much.
• now pull the tranny back off
• now get a torque wrench and torque the bolts in this order (if you just count around in a circle): 1, 4, 2, 5, 3, 6
• put the tranny back up (after properly lubricating and installing the input shaft splines, TOB, release fork, and associated components)

comrade_Charlie

Okay. I will look for that loop, I got a vg33 from a van a month ago, and it had that I had no clue what it was. I still have it but im positive its different. Picture was a big help.

I see, I never knew what a pilot bearing did, so basically you put the Pressure plate on lightly then use the trans input shaft and line up pins to get the clutch lined up in the plate? As I am cheap im will probably not swap in the pilot bearing, and have plenty of time to work on my cars.

Got any pictures of the spacers that are on the firewall that are spot welded, how do you remove them? just work on them with pliers? Im pretty sure its what im talking about, ill take pictures. but from my memory it was 2 cylindrical tubes(gold in color) that the clutch pedal studs ran through.

And I take it I have to drill the holes out for the clutch pedal/clutch cylinder from what I read on the 7 year old posts. On a 84 300zx we just made manual there was just a plate glued over the holes for the clutch pedal, just a hammer and a screwdriver and we were in business.

Thanks!!!

marke

iTrader: (7)

this is what you need to mount the clutch pedal assembly. Drilling the holes in the firewall was very challenging.

comrade_Charlie

Yea it made sense what you said once I pulled that sound deadening stuff off of the wall... I just kept bending it back and forth till it came off.

Got everything I need, going to start on it in a few days. when I go back to the junkyard im going to take cardboard to make a template for the holes, I have a dremel but I dont know if that will be powerfull enough

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

for the hole just go to Home Depot and get a 1.5" hole saw that's rated for metal. it'll cut right through the firewall and be just about the right size for the mcyl.

comrade_Charlie

is there even enough room for a normal drill in there, or do you need some weird right angle drill. Also is there anything to show you where to drill like an indention

comrade_Charlie

Just started today, got the auto trans out and both axles... that auto trans is huge and anoying... the manual is so much smaller and lighter. I think it will be easy to get it back in, just got to swap the trans mounts, and that passenger axle mount, and do whatever wiring I need to do.

Since im always broke and this is a 250 dollar car. my friend has a good 300zx(1987) clutch from his car before he went turbo. It should work but I just want to ask on here first if it will. I have the clutch from the car but I have no idea if its good or not so Id like to put a for sure good one in there.

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

Okay, so, I hate to bump this, but I'll do it anyway

I already installed my pedal and everything and did NOT use this spacer. I always assumed that the pedal assembly sat flat against the firewall, and was in almost disbelief when I installed my pedal assembly into the auto and it didn't sit flush against the firewall.

So, I checked my factory VE 5 for reference by poking a hole through the insulation and fishing my finger in around between the pedal assembly and the firewall and didn't feel anything but space, so I assumed Nissan simply had a bizarrely inferior pedal setup (which would explain my creaky pedals and broken out pedal mounts, etc) but now I see that I didn't feel anything because the spacer is higher up on the assembly. Pretty annoying and now I suppose I'll have to go find one somewhere

Now, all the dozens of swap threads I've read, this is the only thread I've seen this spacer even remotely mentioned in. Did everybody else not use the spacer or what?

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

I recall, recently, that somebody used some pvc, or something, and fabbed up the spacer. as i haven't done the swap (yet, just got an auto), I can't really be sure how most people do it, but afaik, it is supposed to be there (or something to take it's place, anyway).

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

i've mentioned in at least 3 different threads..... including my own

http://forums.maxima.org/6309017-post313.html

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

When you say the part looks identical, what do you mean it looks identical to?

I remember thinking at the time I should have just filled the space with washers, but then I convinced myself that since the stock pedal assembly didn't have anything in there that it would be okay. This is kind of annoying because I already put the dash and crap back in. I don't know how all these dudes screwed with all that stuff for the swap without taking the dash off

I wasn't hardly on Maxima.org for a year or two up until just a few months ago as I lost all interest in my Maximas for a while, so I largely missed all of your swap stories/tips/etc. And since the search on here now is WORTHLESS, I somehow didn't come across any of your threads.

I bookmarked a bunch of swap threads years ago in anticipation of this, but when Maxima.org changed servers (or whatever it was) a couple years back it somehow re-routed all of the threads and none of my bookmarked threads are good anymore. So, I have bookmarked threads with notes to myself like "5 speed parts list", but it now takes me to threads about dudes raising their credit scores, etc.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

clutch pedal comes out w/o removing dash. i've done it a few times (including nc90gxe's 5spd swap).

the "identical" thing was a problem i was having with my new master cylinder... the rod on my new one was too long compared to the OEM one so i ended up cutting a little bit off the end of it. that isn't really relevant to you tho.

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

Oh, interesting, I had to do the same thing. I bought a new one and the rod was way too long, had to cut a good inch off of it

And, hmm, well, I guess I need to find that stupid spacer now then

maxitech

iTrader: (7)

Nah...You can if you want, but I just used stacks of washers...