Replacing fuel injectors
03-04-2009, 05:47 PM
#41
yea, i knew about that. perhaps some aftermarket company makes red ones tho. but both styles of the ones i had were pink.
03-04-2009, 05:48 PM
#42
I had 2 fail within 1 month of each other on the vg, 2 failed within 3 months on the ve..The difference...the vg injectors died @ 125k, the ve injectors didn't die until 300k+...
VE/VQ injectors >*
03-04-2009, 06:07 PM
#43
03-05-2009, 08:40 AM
#47
03-05-2009, 09:47 AM
#48
03-05-2009, 01:44 PM
#49
oh and if anyone needs pintle caps for the 93+VG/VE/VQ style injectors you can get them here (free shipping ftw) http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissa...Q5fAccessories
03-05-2009, 03:33 PM
#50
03-08-2009, 01:04 PM
#53
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Dallas Texas
Posts: 74
I am not so sure if I would have bought a maxima if I knew the injectors were such a problem. Such a pain to get apart and the injectors are so expensive. I'm becoming less and less a fan of Nissan every day.
03-08-2009, 01:49 PM
#54
go change the spark plugs on a 84 cutlass supreme 3.8 (rwd) and get back to me about not liking nissans.........
03-08-2009, 02:31 PM
#55
you are dealing with a 15+ year old car. the quality of it is highly conditional on previous owners, not nissan.
the fit and finish of the interior of the 3rd gen is better than some brand new cars.
03-08-2009, 09:09 PM
#56
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Dallas Texas
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My daily driver before the maxima(and again now) is an '87 toyota Mr2. Paid $400 for, 225+K miles and gone to hell and back. Interior looks terrible but the thing still runs great. 7500rpm redline and it sees it near daily. Only thing I have done(other than regular maintenance) to it is change the clutch. The timing belt is who knows how old but I don't care, it is a non-interference motor. Even my ford escort was non-interference. I know that because the belt blew at 170k miles. Towed the escort home and replaced the belt, ran great again.
I bought my 89 maxima last summer with 114k miles. I've replaced struts(completely dead), tie rod end(blown), drivers side CV(split boot), master window switch(went nuts), timer control thing(nothing worked right), P/s lines(leaking at every connection) and now this. This is the lowest milege car I have had and have been the most difficult.
My parents had a '80 olds cutlass v6, GM makes crap cars.
I bought my 89 maxima last summer with 114k miles. I've replaced struts(completely dead), tie rod end(blown), drivers side CV(split boot), master window switch(went nuts), timer control thing(nothing worked right), P/s lines(leaking at every connection) and now this. This is the lowest milege car I have had and have been the most difficult.
My parents had a '80 olds cutlass v6, GM makes crap cars.
03-09-2009, 06:22 AM
#57
low mileage is rarely a good thing. when cars are rarely driven they tend to have more issues since fluids aren't changed when they really should be, moisture isn't burned off, things dry rot.
and what the hell does your parents having a 1980 old cutlass have to do with GM making crap cars?
and what the hell does your parents having a 1980 old cutlass have to do with GM making crap cars?
03-09-2009, 07:26 AM
#58
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03-09-2009, 09:24 AM
#59
Taking my Maxima to the Max!
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Well, the fuel rail I pulled from the JY VG Manifold I have definitely is the older 89-92 style with square tops and long pintle caps, but they are still red. 
Plus they have the Nissan hamburger outlined on the top of the injectors. I'll post some pics when I have them cleaned up and ohm tested.
Plus they have the Nissan hamburger outlined on the top of the injectors. I'll post some pics when I have them cleaned up and ohm tested.
03-09-2009, 11:03 AM
#60
i wasn't referring to the car's quality, i meant the fact that the spark plugs are hidden under the exhaust manifolds, in a place where you can't put much body weight on the ratchet to get them out. But i guess all pushrod V-engines are like that, whereas on ours, they go into the valley (of course, that being carb'd, you have a big circular air cleaner in the way of the valley).
My point was, if you're complaining about the servicieability of the 3rd gen (which is, compared to alot of other cars i've done work on, including a 4th gen, pretty damn easy to service) then you don't wanna mess with the Olds. Heck you can't even unhook the a/t cooler lines without a highly-offset flare nut wrench of some sort!
but brian's def right about low mileage causing problems. The is the biggest piece of crap in the world NOW, but i'm sure if it'd been taken care of, it wouldn't be. it uses 1gal of ATF per 30 miles due to a leaking flare fitting. gets 15mpg highway before the leak started. lopes at idle but sure as hell isn't cammed. stalls just for kicks..
if all i had to do to fix it was replace 2 fuel injectors i'd be as happy as a pig in mud.
My point was, if you're complaining about the servicieability of the 3rd gen (which is, compared to alot of other cars i've done work on, including a 4th gen, pretty damn easy to service) then you don't wanna mess with the Olds. Heck you can't even unhook the a/t cooler lines without a highly-offset flare nut wrench of some sort!
but brian's def right about low mileage causing problems. The is the biggest piece of crap in the world NOW, but i'm sure if it'd been taken care of, it wouldn't be. it uses 1gal of ATF per 30 miles due to a leaking flare fitting. gets 15mpg highway before the leak started. lopes at idle but sure as hell isn't cammed. stalls just for kicks..
if all i had to do to fix it was replace 2 fuel injectors i'd be as happy as a pig in mud.
Last edited by CapedCadaver; 03-09-2009 at 11:07 AM.
03-13-2009, 10:39 PM
#62
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Well, the fuel rail I pulled from the JY VG Manifold I have definitely is the older 89-92 style with square tops and long pintle caps, but they are still red. Plus they have the Nissan hamburger outlined on the top of the injectors. I'll post some pics when I have them cleaned up and ohm tested.
Plus they have the Nissan hamburger outlined on the top of the injectors. I'll post some pics when I have them cleaned up and ohm tested.Some info I gleaned from redZ31.net is that the stock Z31 turbo injectors put out a max of 260cc/min. It says there that they are electronically controlled to only do 80% of that, but that is still over our stock 168cc/min I think (is that the right number?).
Anyway, someone please tell me if I can run the car with these. Thanks.
-Mark
03-23-2009, 02:57 PM
#63
Taking my Maxima to the Max!
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Well, all the red top injectors tested good, around 12.3 ohms. So, that's good news. The potential problem is that I figured out that they may be from a Z31 turbo or Pathfinder. I think I remember that the guy I got the intake from on eBay mentioned that it was from a turbo vehicle. So, the question is, will they work on my stock car?
Some info I gleaned from redZ31.net is that the stock Z31 turbo injectors put out a max of 260cc/min. It says there that they are electronically controlled to only do 80% of that, but that is still over our stock 168cc/min I think (is that the right number?).
Anyway, someone please tell me if I can run the car with these. Thanks.
-Mark
Some info I gleaned from redZ31.net is that the stock Z31 turbo injectors put out a max of 260cc/min. It says there that they are electronically controlled to only do 80% of that, but that is still over our stock 168cc/min I think (is that the right number?).
Anyway, someone please tell me if I can run the car with these. Thanks.
-Mark
Anyone have any ideas? Does the ECU not recognize the injectors? With the new fuel hoses does it just take a while for the fuel pump to get fuel back up inside the intake/injectors? What should I do? Thanks.
03-23-2009, 05:15 PM
#64
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Location: Olathe, KS
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Well, for lack of further info/feedback I tried installing these injectors, fuel rail and all (I never actually took them out of their rail. I just cleaned up the outside of them and installed the whole rail). I also installed new fuel and vacuum hoses and cleaned up the intake. I installed new valve cover gaskets and tried to make the valve covers look pretty by cleaning and waxing them. Anyway, after too long I got it all back together and it doesn't start.
Anyone have any ideas? Does the ECU not recognize the injectors? With the new fuel hoses does it just take a while for the fuel pump to get fuel back up inside the intake/injectors? What should I do? Thanks.
Anyone have any ideas? Does the ECU not recognize the injectors? With the new fuel hoses does it just take a while for the fuel pump to get fuel back up inside the intake/injectors? What should I do? Thanks.
03-23-2009, 07:05 PM
#66
buy the right parts the first time and many headaches are averted.The ECU does not reset, unplugging it merely clears out the codes that may be stored. All other data is permanent.
03-23-2009, 10:29 PM
#67
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 488
I rip 9 aftermarket o-rings in a row......so I went and bought dealership o-rings. no problems at all.. Dealer does not charge much at all for this and considering the quality you can't go wrong
03-29-2009, 08:45 AM
#70
Taking my Maxima to the Max!
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Well, it seems that my injector/fuel rail swap was successful, at least so far. I haven't driven the car around yet due to the radiator leak. I should have that taken care of later this week and will let you know if everything is fine.
I'd just like to know if any of you think I might have a problem from having reused the old rubber injector seats in the fuel rail when I installed it in the manifold. I cleaned them up and none of them seemed cracked, only a little dried out. But I did seat them properly and torqued down the bolts holding the fuel rail, so I think it should be good. Just wanted feedback from anyone with experience either for or against reusing those seals.
FYI- I never actually removed the injectors from the rail, so new O-rings wasn't really an issue, just the seats.
I'd just like to know if any of you think I might have a problem from having reused the old rubber injector seats in the fuel rail when I installed it in the manifold. I cleaned them up and none of them seemed cracked, only a little dried out. But I did seat them properly and torqued down the bolts holding the fuel rail, so I think it should be good. Just wanted feedback from anyone with experience either for or against reusing those seals.
FYI- I never actually removed the injectors from the rail, so new O-rings wasn't really an issue, just the seats.
07-03-2009, 11:30 PM
#71
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Westminster, CO
Posts: 7
New Max, gotta make it run right
Will someone do me a huge favor and walk me through replacing a fuel injector underneath my intake manifold?? 92 VE motor, Firewall side, farthest toward passenger side of the car. Not sure what injector number. I have the new injector, and wanna get it in there, but without having worked on any nissans before kinda has me worried. I replaced a fuel injector already, took about 10 minutes, but can't get to the firewall side. Any help would be much appreciated!!!
07-04-2009, 12:56 AM
#72
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,159
Dealership O-Rings are most likely the same as the aftermarket ones if your buying them from the drop ship places. The OEM are either Ishino or Nippon Reinz...depending on what batch they have, and just slapped with a Nissan sticker and part no. I don't see how it's possible to wreck the O-Ring if you follow the FSM and apply the engine oil to the ring (or vasaline), and I applied a light film of engine oil inside the little cup on all surfaces. As well, follow the main advice from the 3rd gen forum...twist as you insert. So as you are pushing the injector turn at the same time until you here the cluck sound....or whatever sound it makes, once it's seated.
Last edited by 1993-VG30E-GXE; 07-04-2009 at 01:05 AM.
07-04-2009, 01:02 AM
#73
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Will someone do me a huge favor and walk me through replacing a fuel injector underneath my intake manifold?? 92 VE motor, Firewall side, farthest toward passenger side of the car. Not sure what injector number. I have the new injector, and wanna get it in there, but without having worked on any nissans before kinda has me worried. I replaced a fuel injector already, took about 10 minutes, but can't get to the firewall side. Any help would be much appreciated!!!
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