OK New Injector In & This is What Happened
#1
OK New Injector In & This is What Happened
So here was before and after:
BEFORE:
-Rough idle, 1 dead injector - car would still drive, but drove rough and less power but didn't stall
REPAIR:
-Repaired 1 injector with pink top yellow dot.
-Forgot to buy lower intake manifold collector gasket so re-used previous metal one (New one installed June 2008) - Upper gasket is new
-Attempted to do leakdown test with rail assy out and intake off - wouldn't work. Somehow the rotor arrow position would move backwards as soon as I attached the 90PSI air supply - something very strange. But air would espcape out the injector holes.
-All hoses are connected properly. Everything is back in place how it was originally.
AFTER:
-Car immediately goes to 2000 RPM and idles smooth, as if that previous rough idle is gone - injector must have worked - then after 1 minute it started going low in RPM and getting really rough - and stalled out
-I can maintain the car running if I hold my foot on the gas and keep it at 2000RPM or higher. As soon as I let go, it starts the 'coughing' thing where it is so close to stalling out, it didn't stall every time but would keep coughing and with foot off the pedal the RPM drops to about 500. Now when I subsequently started it, it doesn't idle at 2000RPM for the 1 minute - it starts to stall out after 10 seconds or so.
Any assistance appreciated, i'll do the diagnostic you suggest during the day tommorow. In the meantime tommorow i'll finish putting the suspension in...want to get this car back on the road hopefully this week.
BEFORE:
-Rough idle, 1 dead injector - car would still drive, but drove rough and less power but didn't stall
REPAIR:
-Repaired 1 injector with pink top yellow dot.
-Forgot to buy lower intake manifold collector gasket so re-used previous metal one (New one installed June 2008) - Upper gasket is new
-Attempted to do leakdown test with rail assy out and intake off - wouldn't work. Somehow the rotor arrow position would move backwards as soon as I attached the 90PSI air supply - something very strange. But air would espcape out the injector holes.
-All hoses are connected properly. Everything is back in place how it was originally.
AFTER:
-Car immediately goes to 2000 RPM and idles smooth, as if that previous rough idle is gone - injector must have worked - then after 1 minute it started going low in RPM and getting really rough - and stalled out
-I can maintain the car running if I hold my foot on the gas and keep it at 2000RPM or higher. As soon as I let go, it starts the 'coughing' thing where it is so close to stalling out, it didn't stall every time but would keep coughing and with foot off the pedal the RPM drops to about 500. Now when I subsequently started it, it doesn't idle at 2000RPM for the 1 minute - it starts to stall out after 10 seconds or so.
Any assistance appreciated, i'll do the diagnostic you suggest during the day tommorow. In the meantime tommorow i'll finish putting the suspension in...want to get this car back on the road hopefully this week.
#2
@ reusing gaskets
check for intake leaks. if enough of a leak is present the car can stall. for example if you pull the iacv tube off the intake tube at idle the car will stall.
check for intake leaks. if enough of a leak is present the car can stall. for example if you pull the iacv tube off the intake tube at idle the car will stall.
#3
Here's an update caped - I went out to start it, it drops again low and starts chuging, and the RPMs go up and down up and down...the needle bounces from 0 to 500 0 to 500. This time, it wasn't stalling, it would keep doing this cycle type thing, but about to stall - and it seemed like it could keep going like that without stalling.
What type of test can I do to check for intake leak? Pinch the blow-by hose to listen for engine speed rise? I'll try spraying soapy water around the lower gasket and see if that's leaking. Is the lower gasket that critical that it could produce a stalling situation like this. Some mechanic at a garage told me the metal gaskets are re-usable. The non-metal ones aren't he said.
To sum it up -basically, the VG30E is hunting.
What type of test can I do to check for intake leak? Pinch the blow-by hose to listen for engine speed rise? I'll try spraying soapy water around the lower gasket and see if that's leaking. Is the lower gasket that critical that it could produce a stalling situation like this. Some mechanic at a garage told me the metal gaskets are re-usable. The non-metal ones aren't he said.
To sum it up -basically, the VG30E is hunting.
Last edited by 1993-VG30E-GXE; 04-29-2009 at 12:00 AM.
#4
Greeny - do you think it's a bad idea to lightly put oil (applied lightly from your finger) on the upper and lower plenum gaskets before install? I can't remember why I did it, I think I recalled other gaskets in the EM section saying they should be oiled lightly before installing...or maybe they were bolts, but now i'm wondering if it's possible that the light oil has somehow caused the excessive hunting....as explained in my post tonight. Could excessive carbon have led to somewhere from this burnt pure oil....like maybe it killed the O2 sensor, and hence the hunting.
I notice when I did start up the car I saw smoke coming out pretty bad in the engine bay - but now it's gone...took awhile to burn away.
I checked the FSM and it doesn't mention to put oil on those gaskets - so i'm not going to from now on. Missed that detail.
The update is, the car can now idle horribly rough and loud....like a motorcylcle, at around 500-1000RPM, it still hunts but not as excessive as the needle bouncing.
I notice when I did start up the car I saw smoke coming out pretty bad in the engine bay - but now it's gone...took awhile to burn away.
I checked the FSM and it doesn't mention to put oil on those gaskets - so i'm not going to from now on. Missed that detail.
The update is, the car can now idle horribly rough and loud....like a motorcylcle, at around 500-1000RPM, it still hunts but not as excessive as the needle bouncing.
#5
Is that lower gasket critical to create an air tight seal? Like a vacuum? The upper gasket is new - and for you to say 'just replace the gaskets' that's more work than it sounds. Is there any other tests I can do in the meantime while I order the gaskets.
#6
everything is critical. it's like a chain... one weak link and the whole thing is useless. anywhere that air can sneak in past the MAF is a problem. just fix it. you already know it's a problem.
#7
As Caper already said - if you know the gaskets are suspect, do what you should have done in the first place and replace them - no matter the effort - you knew what was involved to start with.
As I said in your other thread there is a basic knowledge of the combustion process required as well as a general knowledge of internal combustion engine mechanicals .................. what you experience is nothing strange at all - if you pressurize a cylinder, the top of the piston exerts a force on the crank via the piston and conrod ............... and that force will try to rotate the crank if there is even a small deviation from TDC for that piston ............... see my warnings in your other thread
If thats the case you either have a really screwed-up motor or have not understood/followed your "reputable" leakdowntest guage manufacturer's recipe - the injectors and their mounting holes are located external to the combustion chamber so they cannot possibly highlight or in fact experience anything during a leakdowntest ................... I don't know where the air comes from that is escaping there, but can only point you to my earlier opinions in your other thread.
-Attempted to do leakdown test with rail assy out and intake off - wouldn't work. Somehow the rotor arrow position would move backwards as soon as I attached the 90PSI air supply - something very strange.
But air would escape out the injector holes.
#9
When I had did my injector b4 the same thing happen although I had new gaskets I just had for got to put back two hoses behind the manifold I think you have a vacuum leak thats causing the idle, I assume air through a gasket would cause funny Idle too but not that bad...............but check hoses again and change that gasket
#11
Yup, your right. This time I really did forget to order it though. Stuff like gaskets i'm going to order a small number or else you end up paying shipping if you just suddenly need one for a job. And I hate going to the dealer here...huge rip. What upcomming repairs do you have.
#12
not replacing stuff as i should has me diggin into my ve to replace the knock sensor harness when i should of replaced it 5 years ago when i replaced the sensor.and now im replacing it on top of all the stuff to get to it. oh well, live and learn?
#13
Yup, your right. This time I really did forget to order it though. Stuff like gaskets i'm going to order a small number or else you end up paying shipping if you just suddenly need one for a job. And I hate going to the dealer here...huge rip. What upcomming repairs do you have.
In the past year or so I've replaced, complete exhaust besides manifolds, tranny rebuilt, complete brakes besides master, every injector, air intake, battery, radiator, water pump, timing belt, plugs/wires/cap & rotor, A frames, outer tie rods, all hoses (vacuum/cooling & fuel), and more. I can't remember right now.
#14
In the past year or so I've replaced, complete exhaust besides manifolds, tranny rebuilt, complete brakes besides master, every injector, air intake, battery, radiator, water pump, timing belt, plugs/wires/cap & rotor, A frames, outer tie rods, all hoses (vacuum/cooling & fuel), and more. I can't remember right now.
#16
I shall call that an "Alex V", man o man did that guy enjoy reusing gaskets!
#17
Senior Member
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Location: Miami, FL. / Indianapolis, IN.
Posts: 2,610
well, my time came to swap out a dead injector in my car after about 10 years of owning it. well, i took the upper and lower intake apart to get the fuel rail out with injectors and apparently none of my injectors have the damn dot!!!??? its pink but no dots. WTF? went to the dealer and just ordered one and i think its the one with the yellow dot. what is the big deal with these DOTS? why can't one work for all?
#21
you can do a smoke test. i have a this gizmo that will pump smoke into any port.
push the hose into the port and press the button. it injects a cloud of smoke into your intake or whatever port and if you see smoke leaking out...you've found your leak.
i have the same idle problem as you...total PITA and no time to work on it.
If you REALLY have to reuse a metal gasket next time throw some RTV on it. not a full bead put a smear on it should be enough.
i think i found one of my injector rings to the lower IM is leaking...ahhh crap.
push the hose into the port and press the button. it injects a cloud of smoke into your intake or whatever port and if you see smoke leaking out...you've found your leak.
i have the same idle problem as you...total PITA and no time to work on it.
If you REALLY have to reuse a metal gasket next time throw some RTV on it. not a full bead put a smear on it should be enough.
i think i found one of my injector rings to the lower IM is leaking...ahhh crap.
#22
Post #12 and 14
The dots are painted on by a paint pen from the factory that made them originally, the paint wears off after the years..
#23
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Miami, FL. / Indianapolis, IN.
Posts: 2,610
http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...or-colors.html
Post #12 and 14
The dots are painted on by a paint pen from the factory that made them originally, the paint wears off after the years..
Post #12 and 14
The dots are painted on by a paint pen from the factory that made them originally, the paint wears off after the years..
#26
So here was before and after:
BEFORE:
-Rough idle, 1 dead injector - car would still drive, but drove rough and less power but didn't stall
REPAIR:
-Repaired 1 injector with pink top yellow dot.
-Forgot to buy lower intake manifold collector gasket so re-used previous metal one (New one installed June 2008) - Upper gasket is new
-Attempted to do leakdown test with rail assy out and intake off - wouldn't work. Somehow the rotor arrow position would move backwards as soon as I attached the 90PSI air supply - something very strange. But air would espcape out the injector holes.
-All hoses are connected properly. Everything is back in place how it was originally.
AFTER:
-Car immediately goes to 2000 RPM and idles smooth, as if that previous rough idle is gone - injector must have worked - then after 1 minute it started going low in RPM and getting really rough - and stalled out
-I can maintain the car running if I hold my foot on the gas and keep it at 2000RPM or higher. As soon as I let go, it starts the 'coughing' thing where it is so close to stalling out, it didn't stall every time but would keep coughing and with foot off the pedal the RPM drops to about 500. Now when I subsequently started it, it doesn't idle at 2000RPM for the 1 minute - it starts to stall out after 10 seconds or so.
Any assistance appreciated, i'll do the diagnostic you suggest during the day tommorow. In the meantime tommorow i'll finish putting the suspension in...want to get this car back on the road hopefully this week.
BEFORE:
-Rough idle, 1 dead injector - car would still drive, but drove rough and less power but didn't stall
REPAIR:
-Repaired 1 injector with pink top yellow dot.
-Forgot to buy lower intake manifold collector gasket so re-used previous metal one (New one installed June 2008) - Upper gasket is new
-Attempted to do leakdown test with rail assy out and intake off - wouldn't work. Somehow the rotor arrow position would move backwards as soon as I attached the 90PSI air supply - something very strange. But air would espcape out the injector holes.
-All hoses are connected properly. Everything is back in place how it was originally.
AFTER:
-Car immediately goes to 2000 RPM and idles smooth, as if that previous rough idle is gone - injector must have worked - then after 1 minute it started going low in RPM and getting really rough - and stalled out
-I can maintain the car running if I hold my foot on the gas and keep it at 2000RPM or higher. As soon as I let go, it starts the 'coughing' thing where it is so close to stalling out, it didn't stall every time but would keep coughing and with foot off the pedal the RPM drops to about 500. Now when I subsequently started it, it doesn't idle at 2000RPM for the 1 minute - it starts to stall out after 10 seconds or so.
Any assistance appreciated, i'll do the diagnostic you suggest during the day tommorow. In the meantime tommorow i'll finish putting the suspension in...want to get this car back on the road hopefully this week.
#28
It was the gasket guys. In fact, I think it was the upper gasket actually, that was actually a new one....it got bent to hell in the mail the way they shipped it, and there were these sharp bends in it. I tried to straighten them out but it may have not worked.
Anyways, when I removed that top gasket, it looked like there were these marks near these bends......and a few times I noticed air or steam or I don't know what maybe smoke shooting out the front where those bends were....when I started the car.
New upper & lower gaskets and it runs fine now. But I'm having trouble with this oil seal. Don't want to damage it then wait another 2 days for the dealer and waste more money on another seal.
Anyways, when I removed that top gasket, it looked like there were these marks near these bends......and a few times I noticed air or steam or I don't know what maybe smoke shooting out the front where those bends were....when I started the car.
New upper & lower gaskets and it runs fine now. But I'm having trouble with this oil seal. Don't want to damage it then wait another 2 days for the dealer and waste more money on another seal.
#29
Here are the parts by the way for the VG to refresh anyones memory:
INJECTOR INSULATOR TOP
INJECTOR O-RING SEAL UPPER
INJECTOR O-RING SEAL LOWER
INJECTOR INSULATOR BOTTOM
INJECTOR CAP SCREW (16) M5X16 8.8 CAP SCREW FULL COARSE PLAIN
INJECTOR
ENGINE OIL TO LUBE O-RING
ANTI-SEIZE
FUEL RAIL ASSY-->INTAKE SOCKET CAP SCREW (4) M8X20 12.9 SOCKET CAP SCREW FULL COARSE PLAIN
M8 LOCK WASHER (4)
M8 WASHER (4)
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