3rd gen turbo build
05-07-2009, 09:00 AM
#41
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Location: Elkhart IN 46517
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I have no power what so ever. I dont have dash lights or interior lights. the only thing that seems to work is the head lights(no brake or tail lights) and fuel pump. After swapping the interior I started the car and moved it to get ready for turbo/trans so it has something to do with either the harness or a bad ground maybe. heres a pic of the *extra* plug on the gxe car and harness. Any ideas if this is the problem? If it wasn't raining I probably would have already solved it. If I'm not getting dash lights or guages its a power supply somewhere and it probaby flow through this plug.
The extra plug is the smallest white one.
The extra plug is the smallest white one.
05-07-2009, 02:04 PM
#46
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Yea the battery is in the trunck and if the pos. was grounding im sure I would've known by now.
. By fuseable links are you talking about the skinny black box mounted on drivers inner fender or are they hiding somewhere? Guess I need to download the fsm.
I am so close!
. By fuseable links are you talking about the skinny black box mounted on drivers inner fender or are they hiding somewhere? Guess I need to download the fsm. I am so close!
05-07-2009, 02:24 PM
#47
Yea the battery is in the trunck and if the pos. was grounding im sure I would've known by now.. By fuseable links are you talking about the skinny black box mounted on drivers inner fender or are they hiding somewhere? Guess I need to download the fsm. I am so close!
. By fuseable links are you talking about the skinny black box mounted on drivers inner fender or are they hiding somewhere? Guess I need to download the fsm. I am so close!the black skinny box and the rectangle box that was in front/next to the battery open them up and see if anything is burnt/broken/water logged.
05-07-2009, 02:30 PM
#48
I foresaw that issue ahead of time and measured/placed the intercooler perfectly so the bottom of the intercooler rests right were the lip of the bumper would be. The intercooler actually has three threaded holes on the bottom so the Stillen lip attaches there
05-07-2009, 07:29 PM
#52
05-07-2009, 11:52 PM
#54
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Location: Surrey, B.C
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did u check ur SMJ harness behind the interior fuse box...? theres two of them, one is instrument harness and other is engine room harness..check them again if they r not lose or cracked...
Last edited by burhan92SE; 05-07-2009 at 11:56 PM.
05-08-2009, 06:27 PM
#55
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Location: Elkhart IN 46517
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O.k. I found the problem. Ended up being one of the power leads thru the relay box. Everything seemed normal so I went to start it and the starter made like a quarter turn then binded. I don't know which starter I used
.. Is there a difference between the auto and manual starter? If not I'm going to double check my timing in the morning and go from there I guess.
.. Is there a difference between the auto and manual starter? If not I'm going to double check my timing in the morning and go from there I guess.
05-08-2009, 06:35 PM
#56
O.k. I found the problem. Ended up being one of the power leads thru the relay box. Everything seemed normal so I went to start it and the starter made like a quarter turn then binded. I don't know which starter I used.. Is there a difference between the auto and manual starter? If not I'm going to double check my timing in the morning and go from there I guess.
.. Is there a difference between the auto and manual starter? If not I'm going to double check my timing in the morning and go from there I guess.
05-08-2009, 10:29 PM
#58
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make sure your battery is fully charged. I took a starter back because starter did what you described and they bench tested it, it was fine but they gave me new any ways. turns out my battery wasnt holding a charge and didnt have enough juice after sitting for a week to full kick the starter.
starter made a clunk almost wierd noise when i went to start it. as soon as i through a fresh battery in it fired up
starter made a clunk almost wierd noise when i went to start it. as soon as i through a fresh battery in it fired up
05-09-2009, 06:40 AM
#59
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O.k. so first I checked my charge and its good so I pulled the starter. Starter is good. I then tried to hand crank the motor over and it bound up to the point it wouldn't move(36" breaker bar) so I pulled timing cover and crank pully to check the timing. Timing is good so I then pull all the spark plugs to see if anything was resting on any of the piston heads and there is nothing. I then try to hand crank it again and now it spins freely with no binding. I checked the spark plugs for damage from contact and they look good. I don't have a clue now.wtf. started raining AGAIN so I'm taking a break to ponder. Do you think maybe some surface rust on the cylinder walls? Its only been a week since the motor was running so I don't think anything could have built that quick. Any other Ideas? This car is starting to get on my nerves because its taking to much time. Keep an eye out in the classifieds because if its going to be something major im going to sell the turbo kit scrap the rest..seriously
. I checked the spark plugs for damage from contact and they look good. I don't have a clue now.wtf. started raining AGAIN so I'm taking a break to ponder. Do you think maybe some surface rust on the cylinder walls? Its only been a week since the motor was running so I don't think anything could have built that quick. Any other Ideas? This car is starting to get on my nerves because its taking to much time. Keep an eye out in the classifieds because if its going to be something major im going to sell the turbo kit scrap the rest..seriously
05-09-2009, 07:29 AM
#60
O.k. so first I checked my charge and its good so I pulled the starter. Starter is good. I then tried to hand crank the motor over and it bound up to the point it wouldn't move(36" breaker bar) so I pulled timing cover and crank pully to check the timing. Timing is good so I then pull all the spark plugs to see if anything was resting on any of the piston heads and there is nothing. I then try to hand crank it again and now it spins freely with no binding. I checked the spark plugs for damage from contact and they look good. I don't have a clue now.wtf. started raining AGAIN so I'm taking a break to ponder. Do you think maybe some surface rust on the cylinder walls? Its only been a week since the motor was running so I don't think anything could have built that quick. Any other Ideas? This car is starting to get on my nerves because its taking to much time. Keep an eye out in the classifieds because if its going to be something major im going to sell the turbo kit scrap the rest..seriously
. I checked the spark plugs for damage from contact and they look good. I don't have a clue now.wtf. started raining AGAIN so I'm taking a break to ponder. Do you think maybe some surface rust on the cylinder walls? Its only been a week since the motor was running so I don't think anything could have built that quick. Any other Ideas? This car is starting to get on my nerves because its taking to much time. Keep an eye out in the classifieds because if its going to be something major im going to sell the turbo kit scrap the rest..seriously
05-09-2009, 01:11 PM
#61
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Location: Elkhart IN 46517
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Wow if its not one thing its another. after hand turning the motor it must have freed itself up because I got it started Now I have 2 more problems that may be related.
1st is the fuel coming out of the exhaust and it wants to keep running when I turn the key off( no its not dieseling because it still has 12+). When in the off position all dash lights remain on and I can't remove the key. If I reset the car by pulling the neg from the battery I can hear a click and the key releases. If I turn the key back to the on position it locks on to the key again till being reset. Any more Ideas
1st is the fuel coming out of the exhaust and it wants to keep running when I turn the key off( no its not dieseling because it still has 12+). When in the off position all dash lights remain on and I can't remove the key. If I reset the car by pulling the neg from the battery I can hear a click and the key releases.
If I turn the key back to the on position it locks on to the key again till being reset. Any more Ideas
05-09-2009, 01:46 PM
#62
Wow if its not one thing its another. after hand turning the motor it must have freed itself up because I got it started Now I have 2 more problems that may be related.
1st is the fuel coming out of the exhaust and it wants to keep running when I turn the key off( no its not dieseling because it still has 12+). When in the off position all dash lights remain on and I can't remove the key. If I reset the car by pulling the neg from the battery I can hear a click and the key releases. If I turn the key back to the on position it locks on to the key again till being reset. Any more Ideas
1st is the fuel coming out of the exhaust and it wants to keep running when I turn the key off( no its not dieseling because it still has 12+). When in the off position all dash lights remain on and I can't remove the key. If I reset the car by pulling the neg from the battery I can hear a click and the key releases.
If I turn the key back to the on position it locks on to the key again till being reset. Any more Ideas
05-09-2009, 02:21 PM
#63
Thats the one problem about these cars, everything is power lol thats the reason i got rid of my 87 because it had a short in the wiring somewhere and i couldnt figure it out....Good Luck my friend.
05-09-2009, 05:26 PM
#64
Wow if its not one thing its another. after hand turning the motor it must have freed itself up because I got it started Now I have 2 more problems that may be related.
1st is the fuel coming out of the exhaust and it wants to keep running when I turn the key off( no its not dieseling because it still has 12+). When in the off position all dash lights remain on and I can't remove the key. If I reset the car by pulling the neg from the battery I can hear a click and the key releases. If I turn the key back to the on position it locks on to the key again till being reset. Any more Ideas
1st is the fuel coming out of the exhaust and it wants to keep running when I turn the key off( no its not dieseling because it still has 12+). When in the off position all dash lights remain on and I can't remove the key. If I reset the car by pulling the neg from the battery I can hear a click and the key releases.
If I turn the key back to the on position it locks on to the key again till being reset. Any more IdeasThe problem has to be with the auto/manual conversion
05-09-2009, 06:01 PM
#65
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Surrey, B.C
Posts: 1,355
Wow if its not one thing its another. after hand turning the motor it must have freed itself up because I got it started Now I have 2 more problems that may be related.
1st is the fuel coming out of the exhaust and it wants to keep running when I turn the key off( no its not dieseling because it still has 12+). When in the off position all dash lights remain on and I can't remove the key. If I reset the car by pulling the neg from the battery I can hear a click and the key releases. If I turn the key back to the on position it locks on to the key again till being reset. Any more Ideas
1st is the fuel coming out of the exhaust and it wants to keep running when I turn the key off( no its not dieseling because it still has 12+). When in the off position all dash lights remain on and I can't remove the key. If I reset the car by pulling the neg from the battery I can hear a click and the key releases.
If I turn the key back to the on position it locks on to the key again till being reset. Any more IdeasLast edited by burhan92SE; 05-09-2009 at 07:50 PM.
05-09-2009, 06:03 PM
#66
05-10-2009, 06:25 AM
#67
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Location: Elkhart IN 46517
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With a auto I don't think you can turn the key to the off position if its not in p or n can you and if you do the car still turns off right. Mine goes all the way to off but all dash lights remain on like its in the on position and keeps running but sometimes it shuts off..Ecm, and ecm control harness are both from the manual car. After looking and checking things I found that #6 is not firing. It has spark and its soaked in gas but completely clean, the other 5 cylinders are black after only running for 5 min while 6 stays spotless. I did a compression check last night trying to figure out the fuel coming out of the tail pipeand #6 problem. compression was done without wot so I'm going to do it over today when I get some help. #6 has a low initial reading below 30# but maxed at 125# all other maxed at 145# and and had very high initial readings the lowest being 45# the lowest and a 90# at the highest. I think 6 might be gone and 4 is close behind. Today I'm going to redo the comp. test at wot and wet test the low ballers to see if the rings are shot. If dry and wet test have the same numbers I'll move to the leak down test, If there is a difference I'm pulling the motor and dropping in a A/B series vg30det with the 7.1 comp(i have 3 of them).. Well thats if I can figure out the ignition/wiring anyways. So hopefully someone can help me with the wiring so I don't have to scrap this biatch!!!!!!!
).. Well thats if I can figure out the ignition/wiring anyways. So hopefully someone can help me with the wiring so I don't have to scrap this biatch!!!!!!!
05-10-2009, 02:43 PM
#69
With a auto I don't think you can turn the key to the off position if its not in p or n can you and if you do the car still turns off right. Mine goes all the way to off but all dash lights remain on like its in the on position and keeps running but sometimes it shuts off..Ecm, and ecm control harness are both from the manual car. After looking and checking things I found that #6 is not firing. It has spark and its soaked in gas but completely clean, the other 5 cylinders are black after only running for 5 min while 6 stays spotless. I did a compression check last night trying to figure out the fuel coming out of the tail pipeand #6 problem. compression was done without wot so I'm going to do it over today when I get some help. #6 has a low initial reading below 30# but maxed at 125# all other maxed at 145# and and had very high initial readings the lowest being 45# the lowest and a 90# at the highest. I think 6 might be gone and 4 is close behind. Today I'm going to redo the comp. test at wot and wet test the low ballers to see if the rings are shot. If dry and wet test have the same numbers I'll move to the leak down test, If there is a difference I'm pulling the motor and dropping in a A/B series vg30det with the 7.1 comp(i have 3 of them).. Well thats if I can figure out the ignition/wiring anyways. So hopefully someone can help me with the wiring so I don't have to scrap this biatch!!!!!!!
).. Well thats if I can figure out the ignition/wiring anyways. So hopefully someone can help me with the wiring so I don't have to scrap this biatch!!!!!!!as far as the key not coming out, there is a little brown 2-wire connector you can unplug to disable the electronic key lock (inside the steering column shell)... i didn't have to do that on nc90gxe's car when i did his 5spd swap but maybe his was already broken to begin with
05-10-2009, 04:09 PM
#71
05-10-2009, 05:27 PM
#73
hmm... maybe you've got a sticky ignition relay? swap out the relays on the side of the fuse panel inside the car with relays from the other car, or even just use jumper wires and a multimeter to see if those relays are hanging open after pulling them out.
05-12-2009, 04:58 PM
#79
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Location: Elkhart IN 46517
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O.k. today we did a compression test and all cylinders were 180# - 190# so we are good there. As I was plugging back in the injector wires(spark plugs removed) no.6 injector starts spraying constantly until all fuel pressure was released. I then streched the plug over to the no.4 injector and plugged it in and it clicked on so I then knew it was in the wire and not the injector itself.I put the multi meter on it and it had full 12+ while all the others didn't(All this is happening while my ignition is still stuck on). So now I go and disconnect the battery to reset the ignition and the no.6 injector wire dies also. I turned the key to the acc position and the no.6 wire goes hot. Now I was feeling like I was on to something so I unplugged the ecu while the ignition was still on with 12+ and guess what. The no.6 was still hot, even with the computer unplugged. Now I go and look at the fsm and according the 94 edition the independant injector wires are a straight shot from injector and ecu. I now know that my 2 problems are related and I'm thinking it might have something to do with the 90se harness in the 94 gxe. Does anyone know of anybody that used a 90 se ecm and harness in a 94? I haven't been able to find a fsm for the 90 but I do know for a fact that the injector wire colors are different between the two so I'm wondering if the pin out is different. Any bright Ideas? I know "swap out the harness" but I'm going to do it tomorrow so I'm putting it out here for input. Anyone have a 90 fsm?
05-12-2009, 05:20 PM
#80
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O.k. today we did a compression test and all cylinders were 180# - 190# so we are good there. As I was plugging back in the injector wires(spark plugs removed) no.6 injector starts spraying constantly until all fuel pressure was released. I then streched the plug over to the no.4 injector and plugged it in and it clicked on so I then knew it was in the wire and not the injector itself.I put the multi meter on it and it had full 12+ while all the others didn't(All this is happening while my ignition is still stuck on). So now I go and disconnect the battery to reset the ignition and the no.6 injector wire dies also. I turned the key to the acc position and the no.6 wire goes hot. Now I was feeling like I was on to something so I unplugged the ecu while the ignition was still on with 12+ and guess what. The no.6 was still hot, even with the computer unplugged. Now I go and look at the fsm and according the 94 edition the independant injector wires are a straight shot from injector and ecu. I now know that my 2 problems are related and I'm thinking it might have something to do with the 90se harness in the 94 gxe. Does anyone know of anybody that used a 90 se ecm and harness in a 94? I haven't been able to find a fsm for the 90 but I do know for a fact that the injector wire colors are different between the two so I'm wondering if the pin out is different. Any bright Ideas? I know "swap out the harness" but I'm going to do it tomorrow so I'm putting it out here for input. Anyone have a 90 fsm?