Yea I'm switching them in the morning so hopefully this is the problem. I'm using injectors from a 94 TT 300zx.

 

i don't think that might be a problem but how would i know. now once you swap the harness back in, i'll go to my '93 tomorrow and see if can get you the wire colors that you need to wire up for the 5speed to the auto harness so that the car can start. if i remember correctly its only 4 wires that have to rewired that way your reverse lights will work and the cruise control will work but i think you eliminated your cruise control so don't worry about that.

 

what are you using for tuning? cuz on a stock ECU, the z32tt injectors are gonna run mad-rich.

 

Well I just finished putting in the 94 harnes and the sticky ignition and no.6 hot injector are gone. Now I'm going to get the info I need for wiring the trans. for reverse lights and nuetral safety switch. I'm going to follow this info so I hope its right.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/749143/3

 

Well i shorted the brown wire with the green/black wire and it won't start. lol. here we go

 

not even crank? thats weird. once i get home later in the afternoon i will try and figure out the wire colors that you need to rewire and i'll let you know. i had this on a separate thread in the stickies but somehow it got deleted.

 

Yea when I turn the key I get nothing. Almost like its not in park. Its pouring again so I looked it up in the fsm and I'm pretty sure I'm doing the right ones.

 

make sure that your green/black wire has battery voltage. if it doesn't, see if running a fused wire from the + terminal to the brown wire does anything.

 

Just went and checked green/black wire and it does have 12+.. Will someone please make me stick my foot in my mouth and take back all of the bad things I've called this Maxima!

 

maybe wire up your own relay from the ign switch's start post, to ground for the coil pins, and from ignition "ON" post to starter solenoid wire across its switched pins? and say '****' the normal inhibitor relay? you're smart enough not to start the car in gear so you don't really need the stock idiot-proof system anyways.

 

And this would be the easiest way to bypass it?

 

provided that your ignition switch functions properly, that would bypass all the stock starter-system wiring except for the ignition switch and starter itself. the stock system is designed to be idiotproof, but you're not an idiot, so you can just go for simplicity.

 

i have a 89 fsm if ya need it.

 

Thanks to the few of you that helped me out. Car is now running but has a slight high idle from the auto ecu. I have a manual one but I'm scared to plug it in. Anyone running a 90se 5speed ecu in a 94gxe?

 

i'm running a 89SE-5 ECU in a 90GXE on my original 90GXE harness. you'll be fine.

also, what tuning method are you using? you said you have the z32tt injectors, which the stock ECU is not configured to use, plus you're boosted, meaning you can't run the same AFR as a n/a car. Talk to maxpwer about nistune.

 

Bah, tuning? Tuning doesn't matter, he's selling it!1111///onetwo111//

 

i see. all i know is that i was running VE injectors on my VG and it ran so rich that the o2 feedback read "more than 5% rich" no matter what.

 

Install an adjustable fuel pressure regulator! Have some control over your tune....

 

i'd have to drop my FP to 20psi to get my afr right again..... you can imagine how crappy my atomization would be then! right now i'm using a variable resistor on the maf signal wire... it's not perfect, but it's better than running dog-rich. (i used the o2-sensor feedback lights on the ECU to tune under-load. i mode 2, as long as my CEL is blinking, that means i'm stoich +/- 5%. currently i start stoich and go richer the higher RPM I go... so obviously it's not a good permanent solution, and NO substitute for a proper tune.

 

I've already installed an aeromotive fpr. I'll also be tricking the maf for a closer tune while I was just thinking of doing the butterfly valve thing I might think of doing the resistor? Caped where did you source yours? The previous owner was also running this setup with no O2 sensor. There is a wide band o2 installed but there is nothing to plug it in to. Would it be beneficial to install a stock o2 sensor. I already have one and the bung. I would just have to weld it in. The previous setup was also venting both valve covers which now I'm not. What would be the benefit from that?

 

my POS is just something i grabbed from the parts bin at Radio Shack. unless you have a wideband i HIGHLY recommend against the ghetto-fcuktacular "solution" i came up with. there's no substitute for a letigitmate tune. especially since boost and n/a use different fuel maps and stuff.

put the stock 02 sensor on and hook it to the original harness, and use a wideband for your own purposes... but even so it's a BIG risk using a MAF resistor, especially on a boosted car.

 

I think I'm going to just cut fuel pressure and run a low boost and inform the next owner how to unlock more power. I'm considering the lc-1 for the wb02. I'm also going to be fabbing up a catch can for the pcv system since the previous owner was just venting the vc's.

 

dropping fuel pressre so severely is probably gonna make fuel atomization suck tho.. those injectors are 370cc aren't they? vs the stock 180cc?

 

Not to be a ****, but, really, since you're doing all this to sell, and you're not doing it the right way, who in the world do you think is gonna wanna buy this thing? Especially with you posting it all on public forums.

 

I guess I should of mentioned that by me saying "new owner" I meant I already have a buyer. I drove the car today with the fp set at 33# and 10 psi of boost at 3400 rpm's and it pulled very well through all gears. The stage three clutch with the dampener removed and DYI short throw has and awesome feel. Especially coming out of first into second. Tires are not going to last long. It did have a little black smoke at WOT so plugs will eventually foul. Tomorrow we will be sanding and doing some rust repair. James 94se, As far as not doing it right, Well, Sorry if my pockets are not as deep as yours. To be able to go out and buy every single thing at once is quite the challenge. James when you built your turbo maxima did you buy everythng at once?

 

Post #4 says you are using NIStune for your ECU. Why would you be using a resistor to trick the MAF if you have NIStune???
Additionally, with a wideband sensor you can emulate the narrow band sensor for the ECU so there is no need for two sensors.

 

glad to see that things r working out for ya...good luck...

r u going to take it to dyno?

 

Yea nistune was the plan but time and empty pockets has prevented me from going that route for now. Gotta have a wb02 also so $600+ is not going to happen. I'm happy just to be able to move the Max out of the way so I can start on the exhaust leak on my Z. I would like to line the 2 up and see which is faster. Maybe put it on video.

 

No, my pockets aren't deep at all lol. All I meant was that with these "tricks" you've conjured up (or at least postured), I didn't understand who in the world you were going to try to sell it to, with all this being posted online that the buyer could easily find. Your welding/fab skills are obviously pretty top-notch so I don't understand why you (seemingly) wanted to cut corners in other areas, but at least you got it going, congrats!

 

hmmm. Trade for a 91 pearl white auto??? lol. only 132xxx miles!!!!

 

For a turbo that size personally I would run an fmu with stock injectors and a safcII. What I am doing on my 89 SE it has a to4e 8psi. Consistant 12.0-12.5 in boost and 14.7 out of boost. Simple to tune just make sure you get a wide band and retard some timing at distributor. I am using 550cc and nistune on my 91 but that is quite bit more that what you got. Sell the 370cc get stock fmu and piggyback thats my 2 cents. Have built 2 boosted maximas and turboed many other vehicles.

 

+1

 

Heres a start up video!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ak4vn-qqKc

 

You got some work to do that's for sure.

 

So, I bought this vehicle about a month ago. It seems to run pretty well, although I would imagine its running super rich because it often smells like very rich exhaust. When I bought it the right front control arm was completely shot allowing the right front tire to walk back and forth, a rear wheel bearing was shot and some bushings were bad in the rear, mainly just the links.

Its just a daily driver for me, I dont beat on it very much, but I was wondering if there was someone who could guide me in the correct direction for a proper tune. After reading this post I have a better idea of what kind of corners were cut when the build was going on.

I'm new to turbos but not forced induction. Is there anyone local who wouldnt mind taking a look at what I have and let me know what direction I should start going in? I'm located near South Bend Indiana

 

Did you buy the car from Blown N Boosted?? if so then he should have told you what you needed to do to get the car running properly like he said he was going to do in 1 of the previous posts....

 

yeah, blown n boosted said a lot of things. He told me the block was from a TT Z, which capedcadaver pointed out was impossible. He also said that the car was 100% sound and could be driven anywhere, which I guess is somewhat true as long as your ready for the wheel to walk right off the car.

I did buy it from him and he said that it was running perfectly and that if I wanted to get more power out of it I would have to go to stand alone fuel management.

Like I said I know very little about turbo motors and even less about improts. I do however know enough to make me want to get the ECM retuned to match the injectors. Just wondered if there was anyone local who could take a look at what I'm working with and tell me if I should order a pre tuned ECM or if I should find someone to flash/tune it for me on the fly

 

O ok i see what you mean... well in any case if you need a real tune just google tuning in indiana, i just did and pulled up quite a few shops that do tuning within the area...After reading about other people doing turbo setups on their 3rd gens seems to me like the greddy E-manage blue or the Greddy e-manage Ultimate is the way to go for the ecu and ur tuning..

 

My prediction came true!

4rsssfed, just curious, did the seller tell you that he posted all his shortcuts on a public forum, or did you come across it on your own?

 

that looks mighty awsome man, makes me want to invest a little time in my daily driver 93max