soundquest

Quick question for you here guys. I seem to recall my engine bogging down a bit when I turned the A/C on -- now when I turn it on (btw, it is all out of refrigerant and I need to refill), the engine just runs as normal and doesn't lose any power causing me to question whether or not it is even engaging and kicking on when I push the A/C button in. Does anyone know of a an easy way to observe visually under the hood if/when the A/C pump kicks on? Thanks.

WERNER1

If the system has lost it's charge,.. typically the "clutch" of the compressor will not engage.... typically..

But if you look at the pulley of the AC compressor,... there is a center area that is the clutch drive that is directly attached to the main compressor shaft - The outer part of the pulley that the belt rides on spins freely when the clutch is not engaged,.. and then gets "locked" to the clutch/hub assembly when the clutch is engaged...

The short answer - if the center area of the AC Compressor pulley is not spinning ,.. then the AC Clutch is not engaged and the AC is "Off" for lack of a better term

You should find that once you begin to charge the system that he clutch will start to engage and turn the center area of the pulley

did any of that make any sense??

WERNER1

Oh,.. and the reason for the "bogging" down is that there is a larger load/drag on the motor once the AC compressor is engaged - The motor has to work harder to spin everything else AND the compressor (and it's internal pistons..)

The IACV , or what ever it's technically called on the Nissan's should compensate for the Bog down at idle,... should

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

nope it won't turn on w/ low refrigerant.

soundquest

GREAT NEWS GUYS! Finally converted my R12 system to R134A just 2 hours ago and recharged it with R12. The system was totally empty of all R12 before I did this (not to worry, I know the consequences of mixing the two refrigerants!) All I can tell you is BEAUTIFUL! It worked flawlessly and my system not only kicks on now but it blows absolutely ice cold air when the A/C is turned on. I mean it really blows the arctic air like it used to, even though R134A technically does not work as efficiently as R12. And to think the independent shop down the street wanted $800 to evacuate my system, convert it, then recharge it. Those bastards! Anyhow, I am tinkled pink that this worked so well. I used a Quest kit that has the oil and refrigerant (and stop leak) all in one can and the kit comes with three cans and a gauge in addition to the conversion nozzles. Hell of a deal at $60 from Napa.

Anyhow, thanks for your help guys. The engine bog down I was speaking of is only temporary and is actually how the engine is designed to respond. The bog down goes away after the IAC valve kicks in and then normalizes the idle. Great information here.

If anyone wants to know the details of how I did this, just ping me.

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

ibdannyburstsyourbubble

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

should i do it? LOL

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

ok so here's the deal w/ these quick conversion kits...

your R12 leaked out...so that means your R134a will leak out too. R134a will leak out faster than R12. so your AC might be ice cold now but you just prepared your AC system for death by mixing oil. R134a and R12 oils do NOT mix. since you have a leak you probably have contamination in the lines too add that to the mix of oils.

the stop leak also tend to clog your system...so that stuff will coat all of the AC parts and hoses w/ a goo that you can't clear out. it's like using that radiator stop leak...stuff gets everywhere and it clogs the lines.

back to the oil...since you didn't flush the system and didn't change any components the R134a is contaminated also. You also didn't pull a vaccume so you're going to cause excessive pressure on the compressor and it'll kill the compressor.

there's is a chance that your AC might last a little longer but the odds are against you. i do agree that 800 is excessive to do a conversion but a proper conversion should be done or else you'll end up buying new parts in a few months.

also one more thing...the R12 rubber lines will not work with R134a. it will leak out from the pores of the hoses and the oil will deteroriate the rubber hoses from the inside out.

soundquest

Thanks for the info; everything I have read says what you have just said more or less (actually, a few A/C techs that have written on the subject indicate the rubber will last quite a while with the R134A change, contrary to what has been said by some).

But here is the main point...

I paid for another Summer WITH A/C -- which is all I set out to do. It might fail in the winter, it might not. I avoided having to spend several hundred dollars to replace everything -- granted I will EVENTUALLY have to spring the bucks to do it right, or the person who owns the car at the time they A/C system fails. But...hey, another Summer WITH A/C. I'll take it.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

awwww so you're gonna chuck it off on some other person and just let the a/c fail on them quietly in the night? @ you.

soundquest

Naaah, it'll probably fail on them right at high noon in death valley in the middle of August!

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

if you're not gonna fix it properly before you sell it then i'd at least let them know "keep an eye on the a/c because it does have a little bit of a freon leak, and might need new lines and a flush/recharge before too long"

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

regardless of the ruber lasting it's not a barrier hose so it will get damaged/leak from the R134a...but it's your car...so you decided.

it's cold now...who's to say it's still going to be cold in a week? then what?

c'mon let's be honest..you're not going to spring to get this fixed right who are you kidding? you're just trying to get by with AC by taking a short cut which will cost you more down the road.