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Old May 25, 2009 | 10:32 AM
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Car Vibration

This morning, my car started vibrating on my way to work. So, after doing some research on these forums I found that I should check my plugs.. So I tested each Plug to see if the RPM changes when I unplug them.

So I did this, and I found that only removing the plug from Cylinder #3 shows no sign of RPM change while the engine is running. You still see the sparks from the plug yet I'm guessing no cylinder Fire.

What's the next step? Should I get the single cylinder cleaned, replaced or should I get all of them done?

Any guidance would be appreciated!

1992 Maxima GXE Automatic.
Old May 25, 2009 | 10:36 AM
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Chances are you have a dead injector on that cylinder, it's all the rage on the vg engines nowadays....Stick an ohm meter across the poles on the injector, if good it will read between 11-14 ohms..

Last edited by Greeny; May 25, 2009 at 10:40 AM.
Old May 25, 2009 | 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Greeny
Chances are you have a dead injector on that cylinder, it's all the rage on the vg engines nowadays....Stick an ohm meter across the poles in the injector, if good it will read between 11-14 ohms..
I'm pretty sure when I got shocked it was with 11-14 ohms.. it hurt a lot. But I'll get a meter to test this thanks!
Old May 25, 2009 | 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Eric The Red
I'm pretty sure when I got shocked it was with 11-14 ohms.. it hurt a lot. But I'll get a meter to test this thanks!
lol, btw, i edited my post...It's "the poles ON the injector"..
Old May 25, 2009 | 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Eric The Red
I'm pretty sure when I got shocked it was with 11-14 ohms.. it hurt a lot. But I'll get a meter to test this thanks!
Shocked, that's hilarious - this must be the first for this forum.
Old May 25, 2009 | 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Greeny
Chances are you have a dead injector on that cylinder, it's all the rage on the vg engines nowadays....Stick an ohm meter across the poles on the injector, if good it will read between 11-14 ohms..
been the rage for 6 years already. people are just using more used ones than they used to.
Old May 25, 2009 | 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by internetautomar
been the rage for 6 years already. people are just using more used ones than they used to.
i need a few used ones..
Old May 25, 2009 | 07:07 PM
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my number three cylinder does that too, but once its warm it goes away...
Old May 25, 2009 | 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Greeny
i need a few used ones..
shouda told me that before i painted my fuel rail with them in it i had 4 good ones.
Old May 28, 2009 | 08:12 AM
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Car is at the mechanic.. he wants $400 Canadian for fixing the injector.. he said that I've got 3 options.. Nissan Injector, Rebuilt Injector, Aftermarket..

Which should I go with? And should I tell him to do any other work while he's doing this? Please let me know As soon as possible

THanks!
Old May 28, 2009 | 10:59 AM
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Nissan OEM or Bosch injectors ONLY. NEW ONLY. do not buy rebuilt or "remanufactured" injectors and do not buy aftermarket injectors.

The price hurts now, but it will hurt worse when you're replacing them again in siz months because the one you bought was junk.

If you plan to keep the car for a long time, I would recommend going ahead and replacing all six injectors. yes the price will hurt, but it will cost less to do all 6 now than to do them one at a time for $400 each.
Old May 28, 2009 | 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt93SE
Nissan OEM or Bosch injectors ONLY. NEW ONLY. do not buy rebuilt or "remanufactured" injectors and do not buy aftermarket injectors.

The price hurts now, but it will hurt worse when you're replacing them again in siz months because the one you bought was junk.

If you plan to keep the car for a long time, I would recommend going ahead and replacing all six injectors. yes the price will hurt, but it will cost less to do all 6 now than to do them one at a time for $400 each.
heed this mans advice
Old May 29, 2009 | 11:52 AM
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Wow, okay.. just got off the phone with the mechanic.. the fuel injector replaced.. now he's saying total comes to $617 for replacing this injector and fixing a leaking tire.

Brakes, calipers and rotors on both rear wheels need to be done next But I'm gonna do that myself cause I don't have money for doing this too. Since he wants another $600 for that.

I'm in pain...........
Old May 29, 2009 | 04:52 PM
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Eric, if you can do brakes, you can replace an injector. Go get your car from the mechanic and you'll end up spending less than $150 (US). Buy a new Bosch injector from Brian (internetautomar) for $100-120, some gaskets for $10 and do it yourself. If you have a screw driver and an allen wrench you can do this. Oh yeah, replace the vacuum lines while you're at it.

It's pretty straight forward, all that is between you and the bad injector are some allen bolts and some vacuum lines. Just give yourself an afternoon and you can do this!
Just make sure you lube the injector o-rings or at least dump some gas on them before snapping them into the fuel rail.
Old May 29, 2009 | 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by maxitech
Eric, if you can do brakes, you can replace an injector. Go get your car from the mechanic and you'll end up spending less than $150 (US). Buy a new Bosch injector from Brian (internetautomar) for $100-120, some gaskets for $10 and do it yourself. If you have a screw driver and an allen wrench you can do this. Oh yeah, replace the vacuum lines while you're at it.

It's pretty straight forward, all that is between you and the bad injector are some allen bolts and some vacuum lines. Just give yourself an afternoon and you can do this!
Just make sure you lube the injector o-rings or at least dump some gas on them before snapping them into the fuel rail.
pretty good info i was just about to ask where could i find some good injectors for a good price and how hard is it to do it urself but one thing i really need to know is: Where can i find the wires that connet to the injector?
Old May 29, 2009 | 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Infam0usMax
pretty good info i was just about to ask where could i find some good injectors for a good price and how hard is it to do it urself but one thing i really need to know is: Where can i find the wires that connet to the injector?
What's wrong with the ones you have? Did you break the plug? They will be different for 92 and earlier vs. 93 and 94, but Nissan should sell them. Worst case scenario, go to the junkyard.
Old May 29, 2009 | 08:42 PM
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Thanks maxitech, Unfortunetely I already paid for that .. but the thing is, next time I'm doing this all myself.. I need a nice set of tools first..

Since I'm doing the repairs for my brakes.. Can anyone recommend a material List for me? Problem.. both rear Calipers siezed + pads are dead. So I'm thinking I'll only need this for the brakes right?

- 2x Rear Disk Brake
- 2x Rear Caliper
- 2x Rotor

Please let me know if I need to buy any other parts to fixed these rear seized brakes. Also since this is my first time doing any work on the car.. what tools do I need for the job?

Thanks!
Old May 29, 2009 | 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Eric The Red
Wow, okay.. just got off the phone with the mechanic.. the fuel injector replaced.. now he's saying total comes to $617 for replacing this injector and fixing a leaking tire.

Brakes, calipers and rotors on both rear wheels need to be done next But I'm gonna do that myself cause I don't have money for doing this too. Since he wants another $600 for that.

I'm in pain...........
Very typical in this city. The motto nowadays in Toronto is FOBF...for most mechanics anyways. They love to tack on things. Get this, a relative of mine took their maxima 6th gen to a mechanic, and ALREADY he said the rear wheel bearings were shot. So I found out how much they charged. He said instead of doing just the one that's broken, the other side should be done so do both. He actually tried to get all 4 done....but that was going a bit overboard. Anyways the labor was like 380.00 and I checked online and they marked up the parts over 100%. I guess this is the norm though for regular people. As far as the labor, I'm not 100% cetain but I think the rears are like ours, it's a hub assembly with the bearing already installed...from what I remember as soon as you remove the axle nut the hub slips off...after rotor of course.

Last edited by 1993-VG30E-GXE; May 29, 2009 at 11:10 PM.
Old May 29, 2009 | 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Eric The Red
Thanks maxitech, Unfortunetely I already paid for that .. but the thing is, next time I'm doing this all myself.. I need a nice set of tools first..

Since I'm doing the repairs for my brakes.. Can anyone recommend a material List for me? Problem.. both rear Calipers siezed + pads are dead. So I'm thinking I'll only need this for the brakes right?

- 2x Rear Disk Brake
- 2x Rear Caliper
- 2x Rotor

Please let me know if I need to buy any other parts to fixed these rear seized brakes. Also since this is my first time doing any work on the car.. what tools do I need for the job?

Thanks!
Get aquainted with Princess Auto - it's located in Mississauga. I suggest you buy your tools there, and forget about anywhere else. It's the equivalent to Harbor Freight in the US. If your going to start doing repairs seriously, you'll need so many tools, that if you start going and blowing them on Snap On in the beginning, you'll never be able to afford the tools for the repairs coming. I've bought 178 tools since starting in this game...but the tools are definately an investment, and totally worth it.

At Princess Auto they have flyers that come out that you can download on their website. Right now I just saw a recent one that has a big impact set for 80 bucks or so.
Old Jun 2, 2009 | 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by maxitech
What's wrong with the ones you have? Did you break the plug? They will be different for 92 and earlier vs. 93 and 94, but Nissan should sell them. Worst case scenario, go to the junkyard.
headed to the junkyard 2marrow but it wasnt that it was my sparkplugs that jumped off how i dont know but i just have to push them back on and she runs pretty good but the connectors to the injectors were already broken somehow but they do "connect" but not that good
Old Jun 3, 2009 | 10:05 AM
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you may want to replace your wires with a quality set. If the wires are jumping off the plugs then the internal crimp is crap.
Old Jun 9, 2009 | 07:32 PM
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its shakin cuz the cars old ^.^ lol jp. iono mine vibrates too. check to see if your tranny mount and engine mount. i kept driving before didnt notice my transmission mount had cracked which led to f**king up my transmission, had to get a new one. werd.
Old Jun 10, 2009 | 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Stwodahorty
its shakin cuz the cars old ^.^ lol jp. iono mine vibrates too. check to see if your tranny mount and engine mount. i kept driving before didnt notice my transmission mount had cracked which led to f**king up my transmission, had to get a new one. werd.
wait... now did a broken mount mess up your transmission? what engine and tranny type?
Old Jun 10, 2009 | 07:06 PM
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i have a VG, my transmission mount was totally broken before i didnt realize, i kept driving until the transmission f**ked up on me. id drive one day and im steping on the gas, then all of the sudden it slips and feels as if your on neutral , wouldnt go to the second gear but im on drive. **** was scary.
Old Jun 10, 2009 | 11:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Stwodahorty
i have a VG, my transmission mount was totally broken before i didnt realize, i kept driving until the transmission f**ked up on me. id drive one day and im steping on the gas, then all of the sudden it slips and feels as if your on neutral , wouldnt go to the second gear but im on drive. **** was scary.
i HIGHLY doubt a broken mount caused that to happen.
Old Jun 11, 2009 | 09:51 AM
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well without the mount theres nothing holding down the transmission while its being in use, didnt happen right away, over time it just got effed up.
Old Jun 11, 2009 | 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Stwodahorty
well without the mount theres nothing holding down the transmission while its being in use, didnt happen right away, over time it just got effed up.
there's 2 mounts, and even a broken mount will limit the motion to only about 2 inches or so.
Old Jun 11, 2009 | 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Stwodahorty
well without the mount theres nothing holding down the transmission while its being in use, didnt happen right away, over time it just got effed up.
your broken mounts had absolutely nothing to do with your transmission failing, it was merely a coincidence that it failed along with your mounts.
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