finally fixed all rust spots
#2
lol, props. any before pics?
mine was horrible, took 100 hours to fix nearly but its a good job and its all gone. i head eaten through rust on one rear fender so i had to do metal work too
mine was horrible, took 100 hours to fix nearly but its a good job and its all gone. i head eaten through rust on one rear fender so i had to do metal work too
#3
100 hours? maybe its just the ancient mechanic that has been working on cars for 75-80 years...lol
#4
i had dents and scratches allover too. put in about ten 8-12 hour days fixing it up but its all good now.
#6
Did you guys use shielding gas or just flux core? Someones telling me I don't need the gas, but I thought it's common knowledge that for 20 gauge, you need gas or it'll burn right through?
I bought the flowmeter but the argon tank is a bit of a rip, and held off so far.
I bought the flowmeter but the argon tank is a bit of a rip, and held off so far.
#7
Did you guys use shielding gas or just flux core? Someones telling me I don't need the gas, but I thought it's common knowledge that for 20 gauge, you need gas or it'll burn right through?
I bought the flowmeter but the argon tank is a bit of a rip, and held off so far.
I bought the flowmeter but the argon tank is a bit of a rip, and held off so far.
#8
If you use TIG, Take Argon
If you use cold MIG, use a mix of C02/Argon
You need a shielding gas or you will get porosity which will result in a weak and ugly weld.
DO NOT use fluxcore for bodywork. It is made for thick metal and runs very hot. Will rip right through as soon as you strike your arc.
If you use cold MIG, use a mix of C02/Argon
You need a shielding gas or you will get porosity which will result in a weak and ugly weld.
DO NOT use fluxcore for bodywork. It is made for thick metal and runs very hot. Will rip right through as soon as you strike your arc.
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