VEvolution

Just got my VE back on the road last week, after a 2 year break, and only got a chance to drive it for about a 100 miles, and bam! the rusty oil pan finally formed a tiny hole in it. And at a bad spot too, where its hard to get any type of sealant to cover it up. Just when I was getting ready to have some fun with it in the process of deciding between this or the BMW. Even got an inspection today and still, actually legitimately passed. I love this car, but at this point in my life, it seems to be more of a hassle then anything else.

Is it a big PITA to get to that pan? I probably won't be doing it though if I decide to fix it at all, and will give it to a shop. Was thinking of picking one up at the JY.

Thanks.

kringle03

It would be a shame to waste such a nice VE by giving it to some shop.... IIRC I believe the cross member that the front engine mount sits on is in the way of a few of the bolts to get the oil pan off... But someone please correct me if I'm wrong...

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

well not just in the way of bolts, it's in the way of removing the pan, period. you will have to support the engine from above in order to remove the xmember and safely perform this task (because a ~450lb engine falling on your face is not going to be pleasant)

VEvolution

I think I saw the exhaust being in the way too. The leak is directly under the cross member.

If I had a garage, I would love to tackle this job, but I don't. It's okay, it's a nice buncha guys at the shop I'll be giving it to. I know them for awhile. We did alot of glass work for them when I worked at an autoglass shop. And this nice VE is turning into a rust bucket unfortunatly.

Yeah, another tool Im missing to do this job, is in the form of an engine hoist.

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

JB weld?

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

nzelinsky

iTrader: (1)

Its not so bad for you man. I had to do my oil pan within the first week of owning my 2k2... thats Canadian winters for you!

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

Find someone that can do brazing with a torch. drain the oil, clean the outside and braze the hole in the pan, let it cool, then refill with oil.

Or you could take an hour or two of work and replace the pan. pull the y pipe, support the engine from the crank pulley (you can do that with a 2x4 and a jackstand) and drop the crossmember. then the pan comes right out after removing about 8 million little screws.

IIRC it's about a 2 hour job with hand tools.

nitrous360

Ha! Looks like I'm in the same boat. I'm waiting for a new sensor to come in so I'm not driving the Max right now. So, I decided to take a quick look under the engine,because I recently changed the cam seals, and found two small leaks under both ends of the pan. I degreased it after the seals were done because the oil covered everything and it must have exposed weak spots on the pan. The pan was in rough shape, so it's not a big surprise. The issue I have is I have a completely welded exhaust, so I have to bring it back to the shop and have them install a collector so I can unbolt the y pipe.
I don't have a garage but it's got to be done. I'll just support the engine like Matt93SE said. The worst part for me is having to pay the shop to change the exhaust. The hits never stop coming...

VEvolution

Ouch do they salt the ground too?

Good info, thanks. I may as well go with the brazing torch, since my budget is very tight right now. Either way the crossmember has to come off, cause the hole is right under it. Theres like no room to do anything in there. Or................ maybe the whole pan should be replaced cause its rusted pretty bad all around ,and who knows if any more holes would show up in the near future. I may even just sell this car. Im really close to it. I should have never bought the BMW, cause Im kinda stuck with it now. It seems to be the obvious choice. I just can't afford to have fun with cars at the moment.

Would this method be more reliable then the JB weld? I've never had experience with this product.

This pic was from 2 years ago. You can see a little bit of the rusted pan in the background. So you can imagine what it looks like now.



Yeah I hear ya... Definitely not easy. Theres no such thing as a maintenance free car unfortunately

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

New oil pan is about $165 from Courtesy. probably about same from the other discount dealers. your choice whether to repair or replace. If it were me, I'd look around junkyards for a non-rusted used one. there are tons in the TX area for $50 ea at junkyards. http://car-part.com/

nitrous360

Rockauto.com has one for $71.79.

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

That sucks about your oil pan. Mine is basically completely rusted. I can't believe it's not leaking yet.

I didn't see anybody mention this but I would think the hardest part about an oil pan that rusted would be getting all the pan bolts out without breaking them off in the block. I bet those little suckers just tend to snap right off..

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

Wow it's really wierd how all you guys that wanna chunk your cars out don't live closer to me! If you really wanna give it away, I'll come to your doorstep and pick the car up! I love free cars that run!!! ! PM me if you're really serious!

ustfdes

iTrader: (5)

i replaced my VE oil pan in my gravel driveway a while back....didn't have the engine lift at the time, but i used some little steel beams to support the engine from below at random points (such as the crank pulley area) that didn't interfere with the removal/installation of the oil pan. then just dropped the cross member out of the way, and the y-pipe, and did my work.

but, it's a pain in the butt, so much so that i don't want to drop it again for a new leak that developed.....but the VE is worth it. just do it sir.

edit: and i got my oil pan from a JY for like $32 and it was dirty, but in perfect condition, still glossy paint on the outside.

sir, there's 11ty million of those screws, not just 8 million.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

Usually the screws aren't the problem- at least not on the ones I've seen. the big issue is separating the pan from the block because it's glued together with RTV..

and whatever you do, be sure to replace those rubber lip seals on the ends near the crank seals. I always use just a bit of RTV on them to hold them in place (and to seal better) when putting the pan back in, but it's not listed in the FSM as needing RTV there. better safe than sorry on that one I guess.

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

Yeah, it took me at least an hour to separate the pan on my JDM. It was surprisingly tough, and I even had it on a stand! I imagine it would be even less fun under a car

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

yea... i used a thin-blade paint scraper and a small hammer to separate mine.... tranny was off the car so the ONLY thing holding the engine was my hoist. it wasn't TOO bad other than 1) fear factor of 'what if the hoist fails' and 2) crud falling in my eyes

nzelinsky

iTrader: (1)

yeah they salt the ground like 9/12 months.... rust is a major problem.

btw I did my oilpan it only took like 45 mins... but thats on a 5g soo...

eric93SE

iTrader: (1)

Whenever I change my oil I get to wipe a bit of oil off the pan because theirs a drip from up above, but that drip basically keeps the pan from rusting. Sometimes a drip is good stuff

One of the drips comes from a new rear valve cover gasket that failed because I re-used the old rubber bushings that go under the valve cover nuts, the already squished bushing allowed the nuts to tighten more than normal and crushed the gasket making it split in a spot along the rear. Because of that drip of syn oil, the rear manifold stays sparkling new. Bonus!

edit: One thing that you guys can do to help prevent a good oil pan from rusting is to attached a new ground wire from the battery to a point on the engine.