help with changing the oil?
11-29-2001, 12:40 AM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 2,835
help with changing the oil?
I bought a Fram x something oil filter and 4 qts of Quaker State synthetic oil for my max, I searched for oil change posts but could not find any. Does anybody have links to some info on changing the oil?
WTF! Your kidding right!
11-29-2001, 02:16 AM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: CT
Posts: 3,085
Should Have:
oil filter wrench
small to medium adjustable wrench
Two empty plastic milk cartons, or other empty container (e.g. empty oil bottle)
funnel
pair of metal car ramps(optional)
rag
Enough new oil (see your owner's manual for recommended type and amount)
new oil filter (see owner's manual for recommended type)
A shallow plastic or metal pan that will hold more oil than your car holds
Optional:
A socket wrench
Rubber gloves
Safety or prescription glasses
Oil drains better when warm.Take your wrench and shallow pan and crawl under the car. Find the oil plug under the engine block that unscrews on the underside of the oil pan.
Place the shallow pan under the plug and unscrew the plug (counter-clockwise) with the wrench. (If the wrench slips and starts to round off the bolt head, try a socket wrench instead.)
The oil will stream out rapidly, so be careful. Chances are, the plug will fall into the pan along with the oil. Don't worry when it happens.
When all the oil has drained into the pan, fish out the plug (here's where rubber gloves come in handy) and screw it back in. Tighten it firmly, but not so hard that you strip the threads.
Always change the filter whenever you change the oil. Clean oil + a dirty filter = dirty oil.
You'll be able to access the old filter from either above or below the car. Place the oil filter wrench around the filter's body. It will tighten itself up when you turn the wrench counter-clockwise to remove the oil filter.
The old filter may stick initially, but will then unscrew easily. Unscrew it completely and carefully put it aside. It will be full of oil.
Dip your fingertip in the old oil (convenient) or take a few drops from a new quart of oil (cleaner). Use it to lubricate the circular edge of the new filter, where it will contact the metal engine surface.
Screw the new filter in with your hand, and tighten it firmly without overtightening--one quarter turn after snug.
On top of the engine you'll find a **** that says "oil." Unscrew it and pour in the amount and type of oil recommended for your car. Look in your manual for the location of the **** if it's not obvious. Save the bottles for the disposal of the old oil.
Screw the **** back on and wipe the area clean with the rag. Close the hood and start the engine.
With the engine running, carefully check around the filter for any leaks. A leak will appear as some see at the oil filter connection or on the filter. If there is a leak, tighten up the oil filter a little more. If no leaks are found, back the car off of the ramps.
Pour the oil out of the pan, and using the funnel, transfer it to the empty oil bottles or milk containers.
About twenty minutes
oil filter wrench
small to medium adjustable wrench
Two empty plastic milk cartons, or other empty container (e.g. empty oil bottle)
funnel
pair of metal car ramps(optional)
rag
Enough new oil (see your owner's manual for recommended type and amount)
new oil filter (see owner's manual for recommended type)
A shallow plastic or metal pan that will hold more oil than your car holds
Optional:
A socket wrench
Rubber gloves
Safety or prescription glasses
Oil drains better when warm.Take your wrench and shallow pan and crawl under the car. Find the oil plug under the engine block that unscrews on the underside of the oil pan.
Place the shallow pan under the plug and unscrew the plug (counter-clockwise) with the wrench. (If the wrench slips and starts to round off the bolt head, try a socket wrench instead.)
The oil will stream out rapidly, so be careful. Chances are, the plug will fall into the pan along with the oil. Don't worry when it happens.
When all the oil has drained into the pan, fish out the plug (here's where rubber gloves come in handy) and screw it back in. Tighten it firmly, but not so hard that you strip the threads.
Always change the filter whenever you change the oil. Clean oil + a dirty filter = dirty oil.
You'll be able to access the old filter from either above or below the car. Place the oil filter wrench around the filter's body. It will tighten itself up when you turn the wrench counter-clockwise to remove the oil filter.
The old filter may stick initially, but will then unscrew easily. Unscrew it completely and carefully put it aside. It will be full of oil.
Dip your fingertip in the old oil (convenient) or take a few drops from a new quart of oil (cleaner). Use it to lubricate the circular edge of the new filter, where it will contact the metal engine surface.
Screw the new filter in with your hand, and tighten it firmly without overtightening--one quarter turn after snug.
On top of the engine you'll find a **** that says "oil." Unscrew it and pour in the amount and type of oil recommended for your car. Look in your manual for the location of the **** if it's not obvious. Save the bottles for the disposal of the old oil.
Screw the **** back on and wipe the area clean with the rag. Close the hood and start the engine.
With the engine running, carefully check around the filter for any leaks. A leak will appear as some see at the oil filter connection or on the filter. If there is a leak, tighten up the oil filter a little more. If no leaks are found, back the car off of the ramps.
Pour the oil out of the pan, and using the funnel, transfer it to the empty oil bottles or milk containers.
About twenty minutes
11-29-2001, 02:22 AM
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 2,835
JDwyer2821: thanks for the new writeup 
, can I put it on my site? I heard that 15mins is a good time to let the engine run for hte oil to move about? does it need to be on that long?
hehe...my car wont fit up on metal ramps...
, can I put it on my site? I heard that 15mins is a good time to let the engine run for hte oil to move about? does it need to be on that long?hehe...my car wont fit up on metal ramps...
11-29-2001, 07:40 AM
#7
if you've never changed your oil and dont know how, find someone who has
I'm sure you have a neighbor/friend/someone around you that knows
This really is a simple job, but you could still screw it up. It's not like one of my rewires where you screw up and blow a fuse; here you screw up and could ruin your engine.
Be sure the gasket from the old filter comes off and lube the new filter gasket with oil like said before.
My friend had an old legened that he changed the oil on. He didn't know all that much but did it anyway. A few weeks later the engine died because the oil had all leaked out.
I'm not saying you cant do it, it would just be a good idea to get someone to help you out the first time.
I'm sure you have a neighbor/friend/someone around you that knows
This really is a simple job, but you could still screw it up. It's not like one of my rewires where you screw up and blow a fuse; here you screw up and could ruin your engine.
Be sure the gasket from the old filter comes off and lube the new filter gasket with oil like said before.
My friend had an old legened that he changed the oil on. He didn't know all that much but did it anyway. A few weeks later the engine died because the oil had all leaked out.
I'm not saying you cant do it, it would just be a good idea to get someone to help you out the first time.
11-29-2001, 08:32 AM
#8
Originally posted by JDwyer2821
Should Have:
oil filter wrench
small to medium adjustable wrench
Two empty plastic milk cartons, or other empty container (e.g. empty oil bottle)
funnel
pair of metal car ramps(optional)
rag
Enough new oil (see your owner's manual for recommended type and amount)
new oil filter (see owner's manual for recommended type)
A shallow plastic or metal pan that will hold more oil than your car holds
Optional:
A socket wrench
Rubber gloves
Safety or prescription glasses
Oil drains better when warm.Take your wrench and shallow pan and crawl under the car. Find the oil plug under the engine block that unscrews on the underside of the oil pan.
Place the shallow pan under the plug and unscrew the plug (counter-clockwise) with the wrench. (If the wrench slips and starts to round off the bolt head, try a socket wrench instead.)
The oil will stream out rapidly, so be careful. Chances are, the plug will fall into the pan along with the oil. Don't worry when it happens.
When all the oil has drained into the pan, fish out the plug (here's where rubber gloves come in handy) and screw it back in. Tighten it firmly, but not so hard that you strip the threads.
Always change the filter whenever you change the oil. Clean oil + a dirty filter = dirty oil.
You'll be able to access the old filter from either above or below the car. Place the oil filter wrench around the filter's body. It will tighten itself up when you turn the wrench counter-clockwise to remove the oil filter.
The old filter may stick initially, but will then unscrew easily. Unscrew it completely and carefully put it aside. It will be full of oil.
Dip your fingertip in the old oil (convenient) or take a few drops from a new quart of oil (cleaner). Use it to lubricate the circular edge of the new filter, where it will contact the metal engine surface.
Screw the new filter in with your hand, and tighten it firmly without overtightening--one quarter turn after snug.
On top of the engine you'll find a **** that says "oil." Unscrew it and pour in the amount and type of oil recommended for your car. Look in your manual for the location of the **** if it's not obvious. Save the bottles for the disposal of the old oil.
Screw the **** back on and wipe the area clean with the rag. Close the hood and start the engine.
With the engine running, carefully check around the filter for any leaks. A leak will appear as some see at the oil filter connection or on the filter. If there is a leak, tighten up the oil filter a little more. If no leaks are found, back the car off of the ramps.
Pour the oil out of the pan, and using the funnel, transfer it to the empty oil bottles or milk containers.
About twenty minutes
Should Have:
oil filter wrench
small to medium adjustable wrench
Two empty plastic milk cartons, or other empty container (e.g. empty oil bottle)
funnel
pair of metal car ramps(optional)
rag
Enough new oil (see your owner's manual for recommended type and amount)
new oil filter (see owner's manual for recommended type)
A shallow plastic or metal pan that will hold more oil than your car holds
Optional:
A socket wrench
Rubber gloves
Safety or prescription glasses
Oil drains better when warm.Take your wrench and shallow pan and crawl under the car. Find the oil plug under the engine block that unscrews on the underside of the oil pan.
Place the shallow pan under the plug and unscrew the plug (counter-clockwise) with the wrench. (If the wrench slips and starts to round off the bolt head, try a socket wrench instead.)
The oil will stream out rapidly, so be careful. Chances are, the plug will fall into the pan along with the oil. Don't worry when it happens.
When all the oil has drained into the pan, fish out the plug (here's where rubber gloves come in handy) and screw it back in. Tighten it firmly, but not so hard that you strip the threads.
Always change the filter whenever you change the oil. Clean oil + a dirty filter = dirty oil.
You'll be able to access the old filter from either above or below the car. Place the oil filter wrench around the filter's body. It will tighten itself up when you turn the wrench counter-clockwise to remove the oil filter.
The old filter may stick initially, but will then unscrew easily. Unscrew it completely and carefully put it aside. It will be full of oil.
Dip your fingertip in the old oil (convenient) or take a few drops from a new quart of oil (cleaner). Use it to lubricate the circular edge of the new filter, where it will contact the metal engine surface.
Screw the new filter in with your hand, and tighten it firmly without overtightening--one quarter turn after snug.
On top of the engine you'll find a **** that says "oil." Unscrew it and pour in the amount and type of oil recommended for your car. Look in your manual for the location of the **** if it's not obvious. Save the bottles for the disposal of the old oil.
Screw the **** back on and wipe the area clean with the rag. Close the hood and start the engine.
With the engine running, carefully check around the filter for any leaks. A leak will appear as some see at the oil filter connection or on the filter. If there is a leak, tighten up the oil filter a little more. If no leaks are found, back the car off of the ramps.
Pour the oil out of the pan, and using the funnel, transfer it to the empty oil bottles or milk containers.
About twenty minutes
then I was searching google to see if I could give him a few other how-to links and I found your info
http://www.learn2.com/06/0601/06013.asp
11-29-2001, 09:08 AM
#10
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 2,941
BTW: All Fram filters suck donkey ***** Fram also makes Pennzoil and Quaker State and lots of No Name filters. Their best filter (I forget name) is merely "okay". Other people have agreed with this. I went out an bought a Purlolator Pure One filter - over twice as expensive but I think it'll be the best.
Check this out: http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/oil_filter_study/
Check this out: http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/oil_filter_study/
11-29-2001, 11:02 AM
#12
It's amazing how many people never even take enough time to READ THEIR FREAKING OWNER'S MANUAL!!!
Even mundane stuff like changing the oil and wiper blades are spelled out in detail in the owner's manual.
Even mundane stuff like changing the oil and wiper blades are spelled out in detail in the owner's manual.
11-29-2001, 12:54 PM
#13
Originally posted by Matt93SE
It's amazing how many people never even take enough time to READ THEIR FREAKING OWNER'S MANUAL!!!
Even mundane stuff like changing the oil and wiper blades are spelled out in detail in the owner's manual.
It's amazing how many people never even take enough time to READ THEIR FREAKING OWNER'S MANUAL!!!
Even mundane stuff like changing the oil and wiper blades are spelled out in detail in the owner's manual.
11-29-2001, 04:40 PM
#14
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 2,835
Originally posted by Matt93SE
It's amazing how many people never even take enough time to READ THEIR FREAKING OWNER'S MANUAL!!!
Even mundane stuff like changing the oil and wiper blades are spelled out in detail in the owner's manual.
It's amazing how many people never even take enough time to READ THEIR FREAKING OWNER'S MANUAL!!!
Even mundane stuff like changing the oil and wiper blades are spelled out in detail in the owner's manual.
11-29-2001, 04:46 PM
#15
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 2,835
Originally posted by Matt93SE
It's amazing how many people never even take enough time to READ THEIR FREAKING OWNER'S MANUAL!!!
Even mundane stuff like changing the oil and wiper blades are spelled out in detail in the owner's manual.
It's amazing how many people never even take enough time to READ THEIR FREAKING OWNER'S MANUAL!!!
Even mundane stuff like changing the oil and wiper blades are spelled out in detail in the owner's manual.
11-29-2001, 10:07 PM
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 627
Some details
Oil filter: Next time you buy, here's a few to consider.
OEM Part # is NISSAN 15208-55Y00
K&N Part # is HP2008
Nissan Oil filter was $6.76 before tax at Performance Nissan in Everett. K&N Oil filter was $9.99 at the local Schucks Auto Parts store. I use Nissan OEM, personally.
You'll need a 14 mm socket or wrench to unscrew the drain plug. Schucks Auto Parts will take your used Oil for no fee.
One last advice. My VG doesn't take 4 quarts, but slightly less. Fill your crankcase with 3 quarts first. Start up the engine, let it run (to fill the new oil filter), then let it sit for awhile (3-5 min is probably sufficient) to let the oil drain back into the crankcase. Check your oil level again with the dipstich and top off the engine from the 4th bottle as needed.
Reason you need to start the engine to fill the oil filter is because the oil filter will stay full after you start the engine and fill it (oil filter has an anti-drainback valve).
This will change (not a lot) your reading on the dipstick. Godd luck, man.
P.S. Was that you in the latest issue of Sports Compact Car magazine asking about Torque at 4000 RPM on page 18?
OEM Part # is NISSAN 15208-55Y00
K&N Part # is HP2008
Nissan Oil filter was $6.76 before tax at Performance Nissan in Everett. K&N Oil filter was $9.99 at the local Schucks Auto Parts store. I use Nissan OEM, personally.
You'll need a 14 mm socket or wrench to unscrew the drain plug. Schucks Auto Parts will take your used Oil for no fee.
One last advice. My VG doesn't take 4 quarts, but slightly less. Fill your crankcase with 3 quarts first. Start up the engine, let it run (to fill the new oil filter), then let it sit for awhile (3-5 min is probably sufficient) to let the oil drain back into the crankcase. Check your oil level again with the dipstich and top off the engine from the 4th bottle as needed.
Reason you need to start the engine to fill the oil filter is because the oil filter will stay full after you start the engine and fill it (oil filter has an anti-drainback valve).
This will change (not a lot) your reading on the dipstick. Godd luck, man.
P.S. Was that you in the latest issue of Sports Compact Car magazine asking about Torque at 4000 RPM on page 18?
11-29-2001, 11:00 PM
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2000
Posts: 1,030
so whats the deal with bosche oil filters? are they good or paper as well. looks like they use a cotton type filter similar to a cone filter.. but i know fram sux and oem is good too. but what about bosche.. thats what ive been using
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
JoshG
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
51
09-21-2015 10:41 PM
RWCreative
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
9
09-21-2015 11:01 AM
ag90fox
7th Generation Maxima (2009-2015)
6
09-09-2015 12:22 PM
sdotcarter
6th Generation Maxima (2004-2008)
2
09-02-2015 09:53 PM