Taking my block in this week. Should I bring the crankshaft for the caustic hot tank? If yes, how do I open the galleries for that thing. There looks like little ball bearings installed, but do I just leave those alone?

Also, what length of time should I tell the guy I want it dipped in there soaking. 48 hrs?

 

The machine shop is the pro. don't tell them how to do their job. just take the engine in and let them handle it.

 

 

Might be better to let the pros handle it, rather than anonomous posters on the internet.

 

Not unless you know someone who works there. These 'pros' you speak of run a business and they are always looking for ways to cut corners. Many won't even use the hot tank anymore because less overhead.

Beleive me, unsuspecting guys like you are ripe for picking if you blindly trust a 'pro'.

 

That's why you don't waste your time with shady shops. Go to a REPUTABLE machine shop and they won't screw you. Tell them what you want with the car and how much you're willing to spend, and they'll do what's necessary to get you the best you can get with that budget.

 

i personaly never had anthing other than the block and heads hot tanked and checked.

 

Really? We can dip the heads of the VG in that tank? I thought these are aluminum heads...are they aluminum?

 

yea they are. how hot does a hot tank get anyhow?

 

sounds like you people need to calm down and remember that trying to outwit each other on the internet is not going to get you anywhere in life.

just take your parts in to the machine shop, tell them what you are expecting and ask them what they think.

I could tell you right here and now that it won't hurt your crank to have it hot-tanked.....but i know absolutely nothing about the true answer to that question, seriously.....but i could still tell you one way or another.

 

I disagree, the guys that I 'battle' with are some of the sharpest mechanics on this website...and when we converse about something, or battle, it does provide something useful...it makes you even more sharp so your always one step ahead of everyone else. I admit that some of the repairs we speak about are beyond the scope of any home mechanic....but the 3rd gen forum has a reputation for this...so none should be surprise. That said, nothing is really personal...it's just a game really.

'Just take my parts to the machine shop' sounds easier said than done. My block is too heavy with the bearing cap for me to lift in the trunk. I need to set up the crane to place it in the trunk (if that will even work because of the clearance) as everyone's working these days that I know and can't assist. I'm going to the shop without my parts to inspect if he has the tank (he says they do but they never use it anymore), then on a separate trip i'll bring the goods. He's quoting $80.00 for the cleaning of the block, and he said he would quickly spray my heads or something (included), but not put them in the hot tank, as I removed all the freeze plugs so this cuts down the time dramatically.

Caped - the temp is approx 190 F. I've done some research and the time is 1-8 hrs, depending on the concentration of the caustic. Some tips:

1. Rinse parts immediately after to avoid continuing chemical reaction
2. Lubricate machined areas immediately, as rusting begins immediately
3. Never put aluminum in the caustic 'lye' tank

Matt, should I remove the main bearing cap before they submerge it in the tank? Not sure if there are some oil galleries there, that will be opened up if I remove the cap.

 

You just said above that you're arguing with pros. You're not "keeping us on our toes", you're PISSING US OFF. I'm about one step from banninating you just to stop dealing with your continuing bull****.

Professional machine shops know what they're doing and know how to do it. YOU DO NOT. You wouldn't be on here asking these questions if you did. Your intention of 'trust but verify' is one thing, but what you're doing is to constantly looking over people's shoulders and questioning their skills and integrity. It's more than just annoying, it's downright rude.


Now go put your big girl panties on and throw that thing in the trunk. It's not THAT heavy. The empty block is about 120lb. loaded with crank, rods, and pistons it's about 190lb. Throw a towel over the sharp edges, put some gloves on, and start grunting.

And yes. remove the caps. they'll clean them separately.